I love my Stihl chainsaws. They run forever and at the end of the day they are the best.

Yes John, sometimes it just gets personal !

The idea of the root cellar for all the reasons you stated sure makes practical sense to me since you have the choice. Plus you get the office.

Great going guys ... reading through the comments and from what I remember in the video, the only thing that the office doesn't appear to have is a bathroom /toilet. DID I miss something ?? Unless of course you plan to build an outhouse or expect to run in an emergency up to the house. Perhaps being "outdoor folks" now you won't need that luxury 🤣🤣🤣 Said it before and I'll say it again, Love your videos and ingenuity in overcoming difficult situations. Keep up the good work !!

I'm sorry Jon, But you finally arriving at the notch cutting solution, was the best laugh I've had this morning. Still, as they say better late than never for the penny to drop....Cheers Robin.

Oh man John, I gotta say, I didn’t think you were gonna make it, wow, nice lumber too! Root cellar, fantastic idea and if I lived out that way and there were possibilities of a tornado, I wouldn’t have it any other way, gotta have it.

Stile is the best. I think 😊 anything that cuts, runs & does the job is the best 😅

At least you won’t have to worry about a high water table in your root cellar, being near the top of the mountain. Looks like a great place for a root cellar, and survival shelter, in time of a storm, or tornado

Revenge is a dish best served cold.

John a man with your skills should be able to adapt an Alaskan sawmill to the existing rail tracks via some sort of trolley table to halve those big logs. Can't wait for Megs book.

Absolutely add a walk out root cellar with dual style barn doors.

Love my Husqvarna Rancher 460!

Your lumber looks great!

Just my two cents but the root cellar sounds like a fantastic idea.

I highly recommend the ECHO CS 590 I'v been using mine with a 24" bar as a chain saw mill for about a year and it hasn't let me down

3 good saws. Husqvarna, Echo and Stihl. Husvarna and Echo parts. Are available on line if you need them

The basement for the office is a very good idea and investment for many reasons that I can see.

I agree, add the root cellar! Good skills Meg in clearing the site. Did the bug die.... LOL

Root sellar sounds like a great idea, plus it can second for a safe haven.

Ha…definitely personal at that point ! Great job !! Root cellar is a brilliant idea of you can make it work. Great video 👏😀❤️

Root cellar. Good idea, perfect place to store food and take shelter in a bad storm. I bought A Husqvarna Ranger just over a year ago. I couldn’t be happier. If your going to spend 450 on a chainsaw it will be of good quality. One thought. Get a 36” bar and chain. Use it when you have a big one you want cut in half. Later

Yep got my vote for a root cellar Even gives you the option to bulk food buy what you can't grow.

Husky, Stihl or Echo. Pick the saw based on the shop that provides the best, most dependable service in your area.

great video . look out for you every week

I think the root cellar/basement is a very good idea.

The way I have seen a big log made small for sizing to fit a saw mill, and as I have done myself, is to start similar to the way you did. However, drag the blade along the chalk line (while running and cutting about one to two inches deep,) as a first step to get a clear and straight cut line. Then put the saw blade back from the edge of the end of the log on the line and let it rotate down on a vertical line. Then pull it back along the line just as you did when cutting the line only cutting it about an inch deeper. Once the saw is to the rear about a blade length then do the rotate thing again using the full length of the blade vertically as long as it does not touch the ground on the opposite side. The log should be almost cut through or depending on the length of your blade is all the way through, if not then roll the log and using the saw finish the cut along the log. Never try to split the log if it is less than half cut. This works for thin rails or even small logs, but will not generally work on larger logs.The log acts as a spring and will open and then push the wedge out. The job can eventually be done the way you did, but as you found out it takes much more time and effort. There is one good reason for doing it the way you did and that is if you have limited resources, gas and chains.

Two things about fitting the log to the mill. First it was not too tall just a bit wide. You do not use the bark anyway so a edge cut down the length of the log on one or both sides is quick and easy, takes very little time, and will get the log to fit side to side right off. Next the technique you tried to use to split the log was started almost correctly. The way it is done is as you did starting with laying down the base line (you did a good job with the chalk line) then mark the end with a perpendicular line from the vertical split (level line at the top) then drop a vertical line perpendicular to that. Your fist cut with the chainsaw should be from the end facing in to the length of the log. This way you can very easily see the bar along the line. Do not cut deep and insure the one inch deep that you do cut is along the vertical line at the end of the log. Now that first cut will act as a guide to the beginning of the cut down the length of the log. Again do not cut deep until the log is scored the entire length. Once the guide line is cut, then start at the end of the log and cut a guide line from the top scored line down vertically along the line originally drawn on the end of the log. Once you have the vertical guide line then cut from the end of the log using both guide lines to keep the saw plum vertically and horizontally cut at an angle with the tip off the blade angling up and out of the log. Cut down the length of the vertical guide line on the end keeping the saw bar tip on the length guide line. This insures a vertical cut that is perpendicular to the gravity level.Once you are about half to three quarters the way down the end of the log on the vertical guide line (keeping the bar tip on the length guide line) then switch to the top of the log as you originally did. However, now you have the vertical guide line on the end. Making sure that your tip stays in the vertical guide line rotate the bar until it is vertical ( unless it goes all the way through then you must have the log lifted enough to clear the ground or do not cut all the way through. These two guide lines will now keep the saw vertical and straight along the length of the log. Now drag and cut along the length guide line about the length of the bar and rotate down as before. You can get a perfect cut and with the length of the bar you have should cut almost all the way through. Another way to accomplish a similar effect is with an "Alaskan" saw mill set up. This is essentially a level platform above and along the length of the log, a hanger set up holds the saw level at a self predetermined distance from the bars on top. This allows a cut down the length of the log giving you and "open face" that is even, level, and straight. ( you should have a "ripping" chain for this as the chain teeth are cut and sharpened at a different profile than a cross cut chain which most saws have.) Once the first "debarking" cut is made then proceed as normal or rip the log down the middle as previously described. Also a guide line can be much easier laid down with a circular saw once a log bark cut is made and a guide line along the end of the log as well

Use a small bottle jack between the 2 pieces. You got it .

I have always had good luck with ECHO saws. I have small, medium, and large sizes and they have all served me well and they are very reasonable in price. Love your channel.

When you were doing the splitting I was thinking, and that is why so much stuff is made out of wood, with all the fibres holding it together. Next thought, even though you are doing lots of stuff traditionally, how hard it must have been for the pioneers with NO power tools at all. Applaud your perseverance, you will have to get a bigger mill 🙂

I think the root cellar is a great idea. I think you’ll regret it if you don’t do it while you can.

That slap was the icening on the kake afther that log splithing effort lol

Hi from Tennessee !

I’ve had a jonsered saw for about 11 years now and it’s still running strong. I’ve never seen anyone get good service out of a Poland saw.

Congratulations on writing the book! The office is a must have idea! You may need to make it bigger than you think because that’s where all the paperwork gets done in your career and your home taxes etc. you need to have control with your businesses and homesteading, the office is where it happens nicely organized and it will then run smoothly 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱

Looks like that Automatic Gizmo Box is working well

A quick guide for the number of studs you need is 1 for every foot of wall you are framing, assumingv16 inch on centre studs. That should be reasonably close. We'll within a 10 percent margin of error for most typical residential framing jobs.

Hi guys, The cellar is a great idea, providing there is only minimal rock to remove. With the existing land slope, you might be able to have level access under. That would also help with drainage. Re the chainsaw.... You have already experienced how good the cheap ones are (not). Buy the best you can afford. Look after it and it will last you a lifetime. Husky and Stihl are right up there, (and I have used both, but I've only kept the Stihl saws. Amongst the remaining saws are a 064, a MS661, a MS362 and a MS200T. I do have some old McCullochs, but I keep them for nostalgic reasons. Most of the well known saw manufacturers produce several ranges of saw (Stihl: Home owner, Land owner, and Professional), similar grades for Husky saws. A home owner saw will not keep up with the work load you will be giving it. If you are looking for a saw with up to a 20" bar. a MS362 would have enough power to drive it. It is a good all round saw, not too heavy, with enough power for most types of work. Although Meg would find a MS261 easier to handle. If you are contemplating a bigger bar, look at a MS460. For big hardwood you could always go up to the MS661. It is a beast, but it is heavy. Both Stihl & Husky provide parts for all their saws, even the very old ones. Stihl have a new fuel injected model, MS500i. It sounds great, but you have get Stihl to service them. Save yourself some heartache, invest in a professional saw while you are still young. Also, have you thought of cut-outs for the bunks so you can remove them to fit larger logs? Maybe too much work.. Good luck with the book Meg. Do you have a working title? Cheers, EJ

Applaud to John, nice drop!

Regarding your tree size problem. Seen a few videos on youtube where a guide rail was mounted and fixed to the length of the log. A jig was mounted at one end that held a chainsaw below the guide rail and parrallel to the guide. This jig and chainsaw was then used like your sawmill to traverse the log and create planks. A couple of runs and your log now fits your sawmill without the mess and damage by splitting the log.

For too big logs, you could go with an Alaskan mill to remove a slab or two to make the log fit.

John, YOU have every right to be proud of your little black box with it's green buttons! Also, if I may be so bold as to suggest, the idea of a root cellar under the office is a wonderful idea, but don't stop there, put one under the main house also, but make that one large enough to store food i as well as be a storm shelter!

You've convinced me of not using that size log on that size mill.

Have you ever thought of doing a controlled burn first before you start a project? It would help get rid of a lot of the bio material before you start! Luv ya's from Kentucky!!!!

Meg and Ricky really work well together - WOW! Popeye ate his spinach and it helped with the wedge and hammer part of the log-split! That was impressive!

Waiting eagerly to see the next chapter every time.

You talked about a fence, if you trim some of the slab wood you could use them as rails for a fence along the road. It really does not matter if one side is rounded on them.

A root cellar would be a great asset for you

I have a husquevarna and it's awesome, really a beast of machine and not very expensive like the 450 or 455

FYI... those harbor freight sawmills will accept a taller log when you take off the push handle. Generally, it gets moved when you 4 post the head, but for two bolts, you gain like 5 inches.

I have a old Shindaiwa and a new Husqvarna saw. I'd buy another Shindaiwa in a heartbeat. Starts on the 1st or 2nd pull when cold. Starts on 1st pull, everytime, with a warm motor. Husqvarna isn't a bad chainsaw, but doesn't start as easy as the Shindaiwa.

That's how I learned to fish the Missouri River in the 1960s. Some fish were better off running in the river.

Way to go Meg on your book

My grandparents had a root cellar and they always had plenty of potatoes, cabbage, carrots, ect... Because it was easier to store them in that environment. And store them without added electricity.

With the amount of trees you will be processing, you need a pro saw. Unfortunately, you won't touch a pro saw for $600. Didn't you have an older stihl chainsaw you were going to restore? That would be my recommendation, get that one running 👍

I can't compare to many other brands or models, but I recently bought a Stihl MS-271 with a 20" bar -- haven't used it very much yet, but it really seems to do well when I have used it. I don't know about Poulan Pro, but I bought a homeowner version of Poulan many years ago following an ice storm, and it was complete garbage. The pull rope mechanism (not the rope, but where it connects inside the saw) broke the second time I went to start it. Took it back to the store and same thing happened to that one. That started my relationship with Stihl...bought a smallish MS-250, and it's been working well ever since (maybe 10 years). I bought the 271 to be able to handle larger stuff as needed on our new property.

We watched your last episode and you mentioned building a root cellar under your office building. We think it’s a great idea. My grandparents always had one. They kept potatoes and pumpkins and squash and apples. It always smelled so good. Yours would be build with blocks which would give you multi uses. Putting your water in it will give you more room in your office area. You live in the area of tornados and hurricanes and a safe room would be worth the trouble. It’s always a hard decision to make in the now for the future. Janet Mraz

You need to buy one of the sawmills I build...no issues like this and a lot less labor!

I have a Stihl MS 291 and am pretty happy with it. Husqvarna is ok, but I like Stihl better myself. I know a couple arborists with Echo, and they are repeat buyers. Any of those 3 should keep you happy.

Personally, after owning a few different Stihl Chainsaws for well over 30 years, I'm completely sold on their product line. I'd also go with the Root Cellar idea as well... the added space, storage, etc. is never a bad idea in my book, especially since the overall foot print of the structure isn't any larger.

You convinced me not to deal with a log like you did.

I had a Stihl for 30 years.

Jon, Using your chainsaw, how about cutting notches in the underside to coincide with the supports, to lower the top of the log to a size that the mill can handle correctly. Just a suggestion to ponder the next time you have a possibly oversize log to mill...Let me know your thoughts on this idea. Regards Robin.

Sthil would probably be the best choice

Echo makes a good chainsaw

I guess to process a big log you could quarter it first. You'd need a pretty good size chainsaw though.

Highly recommend Stihl 50cc series. (Oldest) 026, next MS260, current (I think) MS261. Pro versions have compression release. These are excellent for most everything and can cut larger than they should. MS441 is a monster that will eat your larger stuff for breakfast and not exhaust you doing it. Stihl when treated well enough will last decades if not generations and like to focus on power to weight ratio and chain speed making for fast, reliable, sometimes scary cut rates! ❤❤😂 Stick to commercial/pro line saws if you can. They are priced a bit higher but last forever and eat everything in their way.

Another great video! Very impressed with the upgrade to your mill! Wish I had that lnowledge amd skill! I also suggest Echo chainsaws, specifically the 620P, its a professional model and is a BEAST! Its a bit heavy but lots of power. Mine has a 24" bar but will handle larger. They are around your $600 price point but watch dealers for their "dealer day" for 15% off. I also have a Stihl ms250 which is great for smaller jobs. I would go for at least a 261 or bigger if I bought another Stihl. Good luck! Oh, and great job on the kiln too!

Miss your videos. Pick up the pass!

Root cellar is a great idea. Oh! and Abe Lincoln would be proud of you for that splitting job you did. 😁

Watching you split that log Jon, all I could think of was, that's a hell of a way to make toothpicks, HAHAH. A 500 pack at Walmart is $1.67, Just sayin. 🤣 Good job triumphing over that beast! Jon 1 - Log 0

That was a good spankin john, yes definitely do the root cellar, and for sure get a Stihl trim saw, and a Rancher 455 Husqvarna.. I can send pictures of what I have.. running strong, bought new in 2010.👍👍💜

it was fun watching u try to slit that log with out the right wags. U need to invest in some three foot long ones. Ya they will weigh in at about 30 lb each but they will split a long for u If u cant find any have them made

Who are the main characters in your novel? John and Meg the love story. LOL

If my good friend living in the Bull Mountains had a good day, it'd scare him.

LOL all you had to do was Trim one side a couple inches for about 3 or 4 ft... But this definitely made a better video!

Jon, Husqvarna all the way.

Greetings from the BIG SKY. I'd wager you never try to split a log again.

John, the blocks used for foundations are concrete block NOT Cinder block.

John, I think that I would have cut the log down the middle like you did, then flip it over and do the same from the other side. It probably wouldn't be a perfect cut but it probably would have split a lot easier or cut slabs off both sides with the chainsaw to narrow the log up. Just an old man's opinion. About a chain saw, you couldn't give me another Stihl chainsaw. They cut great and have a lot of power but by the time this 73 year old can get it started I'm too tired to use it. Someone will say that I don't know how to use a chainsaw but I've been cutting with and using chainsaws for the last 55 years and I've never had one this hard to start. It's a Stihl MS 250 and I bought it new but I'll never buy another one. Another old man's opinion. God bless. 👍👍👍

Husqvarna is the way to go. They rev faster than any other saw which means it cuts faster.

Husky. 562 xp. Spend the $600 Jon. You won’t regret it. Ya gotta cut a lot wood👍

You might want to check into a ripping chain!

Check sawing with sandy. He show a little debarked. It atuch to angle hand grinder. You can chip away enough to change the size of the log

Years of logging and I use stihl, and husky

Please consider makeing a bigger room to house all things for solarpower..it's easier when the battery capacity has to be upgraded..😉

Since you were only an inch or 2 oversized, I probably would have just shaved one side with the chainsaw to keep a larger log with less waste. Splitting down the middle seems to only make sense if you are wanting to quarter-saw or the log is significantly oversized; like 2x oversized.

Stihl chainsaw maybe a 250 they're easy to start if Meg wanted to used it to.

I saw the bug 😁

I've bought Poulan, Craftsman, Husqvarna, and Stihl. My Stihl MS 250 is the best of the bunch by far. The Husqvarna was pretty good but it's life was shortened when it was stolen out of the back of my truck. 😢

What you need is a Stihl MS500i

I have had my best luck with echo cs400 saw

John: green works battery 80 volt chainsaw ....quiet pull trigger starts up first time every time same battery and charger for all 80 volt tools ...... worth a look .........Great white north .......S

I was looking for the best saw for an alaskan sawmill, and most recommended was a husqvarna rancher 450 or 460 saw, but it was right at $600. I too have an echo which is fine for small stuff, but it is underpowered

Hi Jon, That log was so close to fitting, would you have been able to just chainsaw shave a little off the side enough to allow the mill to pass? Cheers, EJ

I would do some research on holzfforma chainsaws. They might be your best bet

Saws: older saws are heaver but last a long time and there easy to work on. i have an 026 (50cc) 24" bar and a 036 (60cc) 28" bar. there pre EPA rules. Stihl i love them and have had them for 30 years around the house. 70cc is about the minimum tree guys use. after watchin Billy Ray's channel i got into rebuilding mine and jacked the compression and opened the exhaust. now they really cut great. try it on your little saw. new saws are lighter and EPA choked. husky are ​probably better (cost more) , Stihl got brought by Poulan

Farmertec is a Stile clone. The 40 clone is low cost and can be fixed if it breaks. $400 vs $850.

time for a jack

raise the posts on your sawmill, add-ons if you can do it