I concur whole heartedly with Tony - you are one of the "good guys" on the internet. I had a good laugh over your comment about people arguing with "surprising aggressiveness" on the internet about the merits of snap ons - that is so typical.. I repair saxophones as a hobby and have learned a great deal from your videos - thank you so much. PS: all this time I thought it was pronounced "Busher"

Truly excellent video Matt. I've owned Buescher True Tones for over thirty years and this is the clearest explanation of snaps I've ever seen.

Thanks Matt, as a former New Yorker I really appreciate the help, since I am looking to repair sax's!

Matt, Your videos are a joy! and super informative. I have a small collection of Beuschers abd this was particularly interesting. I've watched your videos repeatedly and gain something every time. It's people like you who take the time to share that make the internet what it should be. Many thanks and keep them coming!

just decided to stay with the snap-ons on my Aristocrat 3 alto overhaul, Thanks !!

great video's Matt, keep up good work! I've done my 1st DIY overhaul of my Buesher True Tone tenor 1928 model, and I must say it wasn't very easy to make all pads seal with minimal finger pressure due to snap-on resonators pushing them in the middle to much ( I had to add cardboard shims under the pads to make them thicker) and blocking easy Floating possibilities. My beginner mistakes were : 1) that I've purchased slightly to thin pads 4mm , and realized that True Tone Bueshers need thicker pads at least 4.5 or maybe more to sit and seal properly. 2) I've added to much shellac to 1st 6 pads that it leaked on the sides of some pads and got stuck on the pad leather ...messy and inappropriate ....very hard to clean out .but I've quickly figured out the right amount of shellac needed for the rest of the pads. My request is: Would you be able to make a video on the Snap-on Busher repadding ...to see exactly the sequence and the proper way of sitting those pads in to seal with minimal pressure ? I'am even thinking on removing the snap-on resonators and the spuds..all together in order to be able to use any pads with resonators that would be easily floatable? But am hesitant as I play this Buesher already since 80s with original snaps....prefer to learn to learn how to do it properly without compromising the originality of my Buesher. Thanks in advance for your reply. Dimitri

Great Video as always Matt. Thanks. You the man.

Excellent! Thanks matt!

Great video. I have knocked out plastic resonators in a pinch. I agree with gluing the perimeter though.... very good idea. Keep up the great videos...much enjoyed.

Nice Video!

Thanks for this Matt, just found you here as I was searching some more info on Buescher. If the pad cup area is not completely flat and allowing too much movement, spinning for the pad even with the resonator properly popped in is it ok to do what you did with taking a normal pad making suitable size hole for the resonator but still using adhesive to keep it firmly in place?

Great job, so illuminating. When you use a little adhesive around the back of the pads, do you use shellac or liquid cement? Thanks for your work.

Please define soft soldering I need to add some spuds to keys and need to know, solder gun butane torch?

Thanks for sharing so generously. Which thickness of pad do you recommend for the True Tone alto saxes ? All the best.

F# Nice video Matt.

Can you explain how to replace pads in a saxophone that does not have this snap in type system for pads and resonators

Also Matt will you be doing a video on cleaning an old vintage sax, that is partially lacquered?

Hi Matt , were I can buy the snap ( male and female ) ? thanks !

Do you have a website? I just bought a 1927 True Tone and it needs a spa treatment.

is this procedure the same for Buescher baritone saxophones?

A few Tough Questions? I have a couple of Buescher Snap-On Projects pending and want a s original as possible restorations. First is a dream series Satin Gold Alto and the Next is my 1926 Bass. Are there any White Snap on solutions? Or have you seen anyone modify Clarinet white pads and reusing the metal backings? And I am missing one gold Snap on for the D key, I have some donor horns in C melody but no gold snaps. Ever see them? And next, My bass is silver and the bell pads are original, BUT, If I remember correctly, they are ~85mm, and I have not found them yet in any color. Think I will have to make them by hand? And if so, have you ever had to make pads from old parts? Also, I have heard that Buescher pads had variable thicknesses based on the pad size. Have you ever measured them by thickness across sizes? I want them to play as well as they were famous for using the most original pads as I can find. And hope to find white pads the right thickness. I also have a Metal Bettoney Bass Clarinet to do after these two! But those pads are easier to find and in white. German silver and with a Coffin case! After that a gold tenor with snap in pads is on the work list.

also last week a got a yamaha yas-275 it says it is made in japan but when i google people says that that model is made in indonesia or china i dont know whick one to believe can anyone give me your insights?

I'm just about to start my first overhaul on a 1922 C Melody... looks like there's no spuds on the key cup... can't tell yet if it was ground down or if what. I've been binge watching your videos and am learning so much!

I have a Buescher aristocrat alto and I am looking to get a list of the sizes of all the norton springs. Some are missing on my alto and I am going to purchase them from Ferrees tools online. Do you know where I can find the specs for all of the springs?

Где можно купить такие резонаторы?

Where could i get those pads

Those are swedging pliers, available at Ferree's tools.

Interesting, thanks! Did you ever find how that guy who doesn't use adhesive manage to make it work?

Matt, What kind of pliers did you use to tighten the snaps?

What type of adhesive do you use?

I love Snap-On pads, but the system did sort of take ideal conditions for granted. Except the initial factory set-up, I'm not sure that key bending was originally thought necessary to the system. I've gathered that the crucial step to seat the installed pad was to clamp it down and gently heat the cup/pad. The ads didn't dwell on it, but apparently that was factory and field practice. Could be that this tech knowledge got lost after the '60s, and key-bending ensued. Or could be I'm wrong!

Where do you get the pads??

Do you know the years that Buescher used these snap on's on their saxes?

what do you use for glue on the pads?

Where do you get the snaps from??

What pad brand do you use ?

I wonder why other companies didn't jump on and/or improve upon this idea once the patent expired.

They would do away with Cowboy repair men, the we would be able to DIY.

Well the video is ok