I have never seen diagnostics this deep. Seeing sensor getting tested out for pull down. I have never gone this far but your right there and it's practice. Lol

I'm being 100% honestly when I say you're the best teacher and best KZfaq channel for diagnosing these problems. You helped me diagnose on my car with what 3 different mechanic shops couldn't. Loving the long videos since you show your whole thought process and it helps us follow along and understand everything better

I much prefer these long troubleshooting videos instead of, say, a two minute video on how to fix a problem. You learn a lot more. Thanks.

I Love real time diagnostics because it teaches the obstacles that we in the field may and will have to deal with to get it right. The thought process being narrated is awesome. I learn way better this way. It's real

Great video. Long, detailed videos are always welcome. Anyone who says otherwise doesn’t have the patience to learn.

Paul...Mr. Danner sir, you, hands down, deserve the "Teacher of the Year" award...no you deserve the very first "Teacher of the Millennium" award. Thank you for sharing. Thank you for caring. Just HUGE THANK YOU's for doing what you do for us! You're the MAN!!!

Whoever comes across this video, it’s like hitting a gold mine. Sir Scanner, Danner, you are the best teacher and I love you !!!

Scanner danner U saved me so much money by this video the same problem happened to my 06 honda civic coup sent to a shop and told me the ECM is blown so I conducted ur method and it showed me that it's giving me 5v I told the head Mechanic that my ecm is good he challenged me for that as I live in Beirut Lebanon here people r so stubborn and arrogant he placed a $200 bet with me and he will fix my car for free if I win so he lost bro I love watching and learning from u man

These older videos are oldies but goodies always best to knoe your circuits everything else becomes easy to narrow Down @Scanner Danner

You are like the Dr. House of Auto Diagnostics.

U just made understanding the electrical description in the back of my Haynes manual alot easier.👍🏾

Good information even when missing the minor steps. Your mistakes teaches your students and viewers.. Over all I like this online video. You're very descriptive and thorough enough to the point one can understand the issue. Diagnosing is the most problematic and time consuming process

I (many others) appreciate how you walk through you test procedures. There are other videos I watch to get my "quick fix" satisfaction. You could check vehicle first then video tape the results with no mistakes but because you are willing to make mistakes and share them with us all is quite humbling. Thank you brother !!!

Awesome step by step elimination of inputs and outputs

I like the way you are filming every thing is real and honest that make us learn more so keep it that way many thanks to you

This is way better than Forensic Files.

You are really good...wow. Spending an hour doing a complete diagnosis rather than simply hanging parts. I like your teaching style too...basically you were verbalizing your self talk. It works really well.

It's also important to note that when you put in a junk yard Motor and use that motors harness, it may have a different pin configuration even though the plugs are the same which will cause all sorts of problems. I've seen that a number of times. Good work though at showing what it takes to diagnose an electrical problem on a car. Most customers think there is a magic box that a tech uses that tells them exactly what the problem is. It's never that easy. Keep up the good work at educating people on how to find the source of problems cars tend to have these days.

Hey Paul, I'm sure if I was working on this car I would be looking for sensors shorting out the 5V ref circuit too. But as I was watching, I realized that what we need to determine is whether the 5V ref circuit is shorted or if its just dead. So I had a "great" idea how to figure it out w/o disconnecting each suspect sensor. Use a low amp probe on each 5V wire at the pcm to see how much current is flowing on each 5V ref circuit. I don't know exactly how much it should be but I'm sure you could make a rough calculation by figuring the approximate resistance of all the sensors in the circuit. Also this might be were a similar car would help. You could take a quick current reading from it and then compare.

I wanted to just say you have done an excellent job, by far the best on KZfaq, totally in depth super detailed, ... wow keep up the hood work😮😮👍👍👍👍👍

Dan...I have to applaud you in and for the video's that you do and the pro-diagnosing, etc.. I have watched a number of your video's over the years and have for the most part found them more so fascinating than educational. Now i'm here for the education! I'm going through all these same stages as you do here. Well, I hope to complete these stages tomorrow Saturday as we are expected to have weather at or about the freezing point outside. So to compound all of what you are doing but in sub-zero temperatures and on a GM Safari Van>>> Makes for an extremely difficult and frustrating experience to say the least. Thought it would be a simple thing but is turning out to be more than expected. Failure to locate and fix the issue this weekend of Feb 02 2019 during a tropical warm-up to 0c/32f, the vehicle will just have to go into the garage. I have been happy/proud to be able to conduct my own service/repairs "to a point", but in this case, I may have to succumb to defeat by mother nature! Ok, it's after 10 pm Friday..... Time to sleep on it and watch part 2 in the morning. Cheers Oh...No i'm not a mechanic per-say. I have done a lot of mechanic services over the years on an as need basis. In my later teens, I took two years of mechanics schooling, serviced various marine and automotive engines. Things have changed slightly since then!

Thanks for videoing long scenes. It's awesome seeing a pro work.

you are good at diagnosing. when i was watching it i paused it before you did the next step and we thought the same for the most part!

This gentleman knows what he is doing.

Scanner Danner does it again..

Thanks for taking the Time to Record, Paul ! K.O.

Great video as ever ScannerDanner Paul I had a similar issue on a GM petrol engine. Instead of the control unit going down it was the split wiring supplying 5v to MAP and intake position sensor.. The wire had rubbed to ground pulling the voltage down. I unplugged the control unit to eliminate then used a test light which would illuminate connected to Batt +.

THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! The dealer quoted $1100 for my 05 Cobalt no start, no codes condition fix. Following your video, I began your diagnostics using my hands (LOL). Turned out to be a broken (S)terminal wire on the starter. $1.49 for 5 connector pack, some black tape, BANG she runs like a champ. Thanks for the $1098.51 bonus!!!!!!!!!

Some friendly criticism. When you hitting the car's paint with a metal testlight, you're penetrating the paint, exposing bare metal. Thats where rust gonna start forming, shortly after your repair. Other than that, great video as always.

You are a good teacher I know that's why you took your time to prove that was a bad computer that's what I was trying to say I wish I lived closer I Shirley would want to participate or just come and help you in my spare time to learn

Hi Paul, love the tutorials. I've decided to get back into diagnostics having been out of it for a few years on the strength of these (perhaps you just make it look too easy)! When testing for possible shorts to ground of the 5V ref. circuits, how about just doing a resistive test at the ECM plug (plugged in - possibly battery +ve disconnected so no stray voltages) on each 5V ref. connection, and probably eliminate shorts with a couple of measurements? You'd be getting a number of sensors in parallel but as long as you don't see any readings less than, say, 100s of ohms, those circuits aren't incorrectly loaded! Can't wait for part 2!!!

Gentleman, u r good at this mechanical stuff! Respect.

I haven't watched the whole video yet, but, knowing the wire colors were wrong at the throttle body and that this is now the second engine installed from a salvage yard I would suspect that the tech that installed the engine kept the engine harness intact with the engine and that it may have come from a sister car that shared the same engine. i.e. I would move my testing to the ECU connector and confirm with volt drop tests across the circuits to connector end views. This has saved me in-numerous hours of frustration with budget mechanic swap diagnosis once I figured it out. Just thought I would share.

Paul, Thanks for this particular video. The very subject of "how to be as positive as possible that you have a bad PCM" is one I have wondered about for a long time. I know you have touched on the subject in many other diagnostic videos. I'm looking forward to watching part 2, but this one has a lot of knowledge in it about how to "test pcm's". It's a bummer that there is not a "universal PCM tester", that would have a bunch of different cables that would cover the PCM's in most cars, that a technician could simply plug a PCM into that would do a series of automated tests. I assume that maybe some of the companies that do "PCM rebuilding" probably have test rig's like that, that they build themselves. It would not really be terribly hard to design, for an electronic engineer who had a good set of data on how the computer works. Here is a suggestion for a video that I think would be of very great interst to many, many viewers, I know it would be for me.................... Please give consideration doing a video SOLELY on the concept of how many PCM's are replaced needlessly. I would be very interested in hearing, based on your lifetime of experience and other stories or data you have heard, is what percentage of PCM's that are replaced are actually OK? I would bet the percentage is very high. I would also guess that in many. many cases the customer ends up paying for the garage to put the new one in. There are many ways for a shop to put a new computer in, then realize the new computer was not needed, fix something else that is smaller and cheaper, and get the customer to pay for the whole thing.

you're the best teacher

well you have a lot of patience i have experience in control wiring in havoc , comveyor systems etc , sometimes i play with cars not at the level you do , it can be a challenge for anyone you are good at it , i love watching you i guess when we get old i am 63 patience is a little short LOL . don't stop love your vids ,,,,

I've been working on cars and such since a very young age and have seen the days of climbing in the engine compartment (literally) to adjust a carb to what we have today. Your videos are very thorough and in depth. I agree that you should not edit (for the most part) any videos. Sometimes what might seem insignificant at the moment becomes an ah hah moment down the road. Again awesome videos. Just subscribed and look forward to future videos.

Thankyou very much, for this good example of professional automotive electrical diagnosis. Very comprehensive.

Well explained video, detailed informations, I proud to be on your channel

Great work, my Idea was to, disconnect the ECU connectors>>no 1.7V>> use an external 5V PS with a current gauge>> inject 5V to check short circuits on the entire 5V Ref>> if no short present and 5V was up then we have a definite bad ECU

distributor,coil ,fuel pump, map,just about every thing anyone could think off has been changed even both computers

while you are checking the 5-volt reference move the wiring harness around and wiggle here and there to see if the voltage comes back up. Seams as it is the ECM. Due to engine replacement, id check for a pinched harness spot maybe during the engine install. I think you're pretty talented at this. Sometimes you can open up the ECU and see blown components or hot spots or swollen capacitors or swollen female connectors not supplying enough voltage. The wiggle test helps here while looking at the voltage meter. ( harness connectors ) You covered all the basics pretty quick a color-coded wiring printout would be good here

When it comes to shorted reference circuits I swear it's always the last one you pull that ends up the problem 😒 🙄 🤣 @ScannerDanner

Great legend of diagnostics. Paul d.......

I don’t know how I got here but I’m enjoying it 😂

37:00 - "I have to get those other sensors out of the picture" Easy, unplug the computer, check resistance from the computer connector 5V terminals to both battery positive and battery ground. as long as you don't see a low reading, you know all the sensors on the circuit are good. No need to do all of the physical leg work unplugging sensors.

nothing is foolish by you. good work showing the ground feed to sensors at 40 minutes. Great detailing

What you went through in this video it was amazing step by step analysis from the schematics we have to use schematics in our channels however if there's a place to open up the fuse to the computer I would take an external power supply at 5 volts with high current feed it to the computer to see how the computer reacts and see how much current I am drawing

thank you for the video youtube. i am working on a1990 thruderbirt 3.8, i think, supercharged no start and 3 bad capacitors. replaced the capaciors, but still no start and seems like no communication with the engine eec. will start with exactly what you showed in this youtube. but have no wiring diagrams yet. thanks again. edwinstarr24. this video is very helpful. ed.

Cool. Without wanting to draw you or anyone else into an argument on this topic, I just want to say that, in my opinion it doesn't matter how experienced a person might be, to bad mouth a peer is just bad form. After all as the saying goes there is more than one way to skin a cat. Your videos are excellent BTW.

I wish I found a fluke laying around lol great video

Dan the man this Jamar one of your students from rosedale

Wow ! I am a beginner. I learned a tremendous amount ! Thank you very much. I actually will need to watch this video again ! Thank You Scanner Danner !

Using a resistance check at the PCM to verify that sensors that are a pain in the ass to get to and unplug ain't shorted to ground. That's an excellent idea!!!!

Have you ever used a power probe hook on a 5volt ref problem? So if you set the hook to 5 volts and tap into the circuit, it beeps if the circuit or sensors are pulled to ground. Then you can unplug one at a time and the beep goes away and probe shows 5volts. Bam, short found!

Another great video. Man I’m learning lots 👍

Hello I watched your video and I was like watching a great drama movie! I love the way you troubleshoot like I said it was gripping I followed you right through while I was asking myself the questions you were answering them amazing wish I could come down to that school and learn something with you ! Great job !!!

Excellent video. The logical path to testing all of this sensor stuff is just like what we folks who used to be consumer electronic techs learned about VCR's in the mid-late 80's (you remember VCR's, right? (No, that's not the one with a crank on the side!). They had mechanism position sensors (sort of like a throttle position sensor), & Hall motion sensors on the VCR mechanisms as well as signals from the tape to keep it tracking & of course the processors that used all this info to make the thing work. it was all completely new to us back then. I will say that the reading on your Fluke for the reference voltage is actually 0.174V and not 1.74. This could easily just be the wiring harness acting like an antenna & picking up any errant signal in the air. It could also be the result of the computer being bad, too. Ultimately as you said, it's basically no voltage compared to the 5VDC that should be there. Great video. I'm really just your curbside mechanic who has an electronics education, and really see the parallels to the consumer repair electronics industry which has unfortunately been essentially dead for quite a few years once that kind of stuff started becoming throw-away. That is a distinct advantage the auto industry has. Vehicles have not gotten cheaper to replace, unless you bought a Yugo!

Great to see the gears turning and that you are human too....

Good video. It's also good to know to stay away from the Cobalt

Thanks a lot 🙏 Scanner Danner Much support from 🇿🇦 ZAR- Durban Rich Future by DSK Clothing ❤

Absolutely great case studies.....keeps me on top of the game. Cheers and keep em coming!!!!

dude you are a great tech and teacher, have more confidence in yourself!

Brilliant , great teaching skills . Well done

Working on the same car with similar readings...the highest readings on any sensor is .06 but when I unplug the bottom ecm connector the readings jump up to 3.3volts don't know if that tells me anything or not... ???? going to check the fuel pressure sender like yyou suggest and call it.... I recently signed up for your class.. you have made me lots of money and the lest I could do..so thank you and keep on keeping on. :)

great lesson your diagnosis is excellent thank you

You are truly amazing! I've spent hours and hours watching your videos on no start no crank situations. Loved the one with your son! But I have a Dodge Stratus that will not start or crank and we can't figure out what we should do next. We replaced the starter and ignition switch, which, after watching your videos, I now believe were a waste of money. I've tested the ignition switch for power when cranking and all is good. I've tested the starter relay and it has power on the load side and on the control side when cranking. But when I tested the brown wire that attaches to the Starter solenoid and sends power from the ignition switch, there is no power. I just don't know what is in between the relay and the solenoid because I can't seem to find a wiring diagram for my 2.7L sedan anywhere. I'm not sure if the Neutral Safety switch is involved in the circuit or if its just the PCM. I'm afraid it is the PCM though because the odometer is reading "No Bus" and when I turn the key to crank, nothing happens. No spark, no crank, and no fuel pump priming. Do you have any suggestions on what I should do next?

Excellent walk through and very informative. Keep the videos coming.

I can understand checking a few censors and if no voltage rise or drop, unplug the computer harness and start checking voltage pins coming out of the computer for proper reference voltages and if they are not present at the proper rate with a fully charges 12 volt system then make sure voltage to the computer is correct if it is the computer internal circuits are bad, open computer case as see what is burned up or start checking diodes if the computer was hooked up backwards due to improper ground positive contacts, should have blown the fuse-able link first inside the computer if not it will be diode that is blown. I would check diode voltage regulator circuits first that stabilize main reference voltages first. Replace and adjust parts to desired voltages ratings and proceed to next circuits, do the same and then run checks on the IC circuits to make sure not shorts or improper switching.

Very good video it's always a pleasure watching your videos, as they remind us how not to forget the steps and follow your book, tank you ,and please keep this good job that u always do.

For an engine swap if you are hired to make sure the electronics don't get fried due to miswiring, I basically tell the mechanics not to connect the battery, in fact don't even install it. What I will do is charge the battery out of the car, and then power the car using a current limited DC power supply. For key off I like to set the current limit at 5 Amps at 12.5 VDC. Then I check the power feeds and fuses to see who has power. If there is a short because of the mechanics making a mistake the supply will current limit at 5 Amps which will not usually blow a fuse or damage a wiring harness. Once I am satisfied the power and grounds follow the vehicle wiring diagram then I can go key on engine off at a current limit of 15 or 20 Amps at 12.5 VDC and see if I can communicate with the different modules in the vehicle; ECM, TCM, BCM etc. If so, then I will install a charged battery and continue my testing key on engine off. I always make sure the engine fluids are full before I start the engine. Then I will start the engine and look at ECM live data. You really should not spark a plug when it is out of the engine, the excess energy not delivered to the gap will have to be dissipated in the driver IGBT which could overheat and fail. I have always thought that the VREF should be a separate uC controlled supply within the ECM, so when shorted it would current limit and report a fault, whereby the uC could disable it. This way when you have a short on VREF the module can still function and convey the fault to the scan tool.

This is great stuff. Look how much easier it would be to put a new computer in at the customer's expense. I've seen lots of cars with £££££s worth of new components and a broken wire in the harness or an intermittent connection on a plug. As it happens you will need a new computer, but how much more satisfying and dignified it is to have gone through this step by step to eliminate doubt. Maybe you could consider opening the computer and testing the regulator in situ to show how these things are constructed. It may be that a 2$ reg could fix this.

Of course I'm referring to a power supply that's variable that you can put in 5 volts 12 volts try to feed it at the fuse otherwise chasing all the loads that are connected to it is a lot of work

Keep doing your thing brother. Just saw the FB post and it made me see red. Ignore the stupid people man. You are a good man.

Don't forget to send part 2.

Please explain what you meant by, "...a bad ground would give a high ref voltage." Thanks for your great vids.

Hi Paul - fantastic - just amazed at the thought process, lots of variables in diagnostics. I am so glad it's not an iac. LOL

I had to go through d same process a few weeks ago, and found d 2002 Saturn Vue needed a computer, which fixed d problem. So I know what you r going through.

great video ,learn a lot from your videos ,however just slow down a little on the diagrams for us beginners so we can visually follow you when you show where the components are getting there power from.however great video love the way you teach.

Even though there was reason to suspect the ECU, it still should be mentioned that the clutch pedal sensor is also an avenue for suspicion with a no crank in this car.

thanks Paul Danner

Thanks Alot Mr.Danner ,

my respect for you lol the video and seen tours are excellent a good teacher l also works mecanico automotriz and still everything learning in nicaragua but live in California speak little English but when it comes to the mecanico automotriz understand perfect well my respect for you master

the engine performance 2 teacher at my auto tech school shows your videos in his class just an fyi

Paul, I just got done watching the vid, again and I still love the way you checked the hard to reach sensor wires. After watching the vid again, it left me with three questions. My take on it was that when you did those ohm checks that you were proving the 5 Volt Ref was not being fully pulled to Sensor Ground thru a shorted Sensor, by having about 5,000 ohms of resistance. My question is by doing that type of test are you proving ( I don't believe you are ) that there is not a Short to Ground on that Sensors 5 Volt Ref to Chassis ground? Did you mean afterword's that you needed to check that there was not 5 Volt Ref Short to Chassis Ground when you said we might have a Harness problem? And if the PCM is dead, then why is there that 1.75 Voltage still on the 5 Volt Ref ? I watched your Honda Element Vid and you had a shorted MAP Sensor that was pulling the 5 Volt REF to Sensor Ground and you had that same 1.75 Voltage on the 5 Volt Ref? ( Clue ) - That common denominator between the two case studies needs to be investigated. That exact voltage 1.75 on both vehicles cannot be coincidence ). One other thing that tells me that the Regulator is still good, is that most Commercially bought Regulators ( not sure about the PCMs Regulator, I would think they do! ) have a Thermal/Overload Shut Down feature built in internally to them, which makes them almost impossible to cook. Also there is a thing called Dropout Voltage ( Usually 1 -2 Volts higher than the Regulators Output ) on those Regulators. If the PCMs Supply Voltage drops lower than the Regulators Dropout Voltage than the Output Voltage on the Regulator drops accordingly. Another words if your Supply Voltage had a Voltage Drop because of Resistance or was pulled down to ground but not all the way, the Output on the Voltage Regulator would Drop too! My prediction is you found a Shorted Sensor or Pinched Harness somewhere or a Bad Power Source to the PCM. You fixed It so I guess well find out soon!

Great Teaching !

amazing run thru you should teach at your nearest automotive college. tnx

Would it be wise to just cut the 5v ref wire at the computer and measure voltage there to determine if you have a wire/sensor short? Or would the splice cause problems? For the sensors that you can't get to.

Great video Paul!

I always told my son show me a wiring diagram and he gets pissed. Make a jig for a project , he gets pissed. I will have to tie him down so he can watch this and why it is so important not to guess and check check check all circuits and components. He just called on a motor " sorry 2 halfs of two different type motors" Same years and cubes diffenert ignitions and computers and he can't get it running. Wonder why?

Judging by what was in the video it may appear by hooking up the grounds to the starter terminal may have shorted out the ECM blowing the 5 volt regulator and losing the 5 volt power rail within the ECM. If the ECM has power at the ECM where it is supposed to have power and, now ground at the ECM, and you are still receiving 1.74 ref voltage, I would probably condemn the computer. I agree with Mitchel. Using a pinout diagram and using connectors from a kit, disconnect both harnesses from the ECM and connect power and ground to the pins on the ECM powering the ECM. Then check voltage ref at the pins on the EDM. With the harness disconnected if you get the 5 volt reference then you know there is a harness short, otherwise if you are still getting 1.7 volts then it is the ECM. Just a thought.

mr scanner i think wrong diagnose for the getting 5 volt ref,you can use scan tools to check your 5 volts ref. if you check there is ignition and batt at your crank relay. so your next step check the ground ckt between pcm and crank relay.if ckt is ok, but still no ground feed from your pcm its means your pcm is faulty...sorry for my english

How can any of your tutorials be TOO LONG. I can miss an important point if I take a sip of coffee. Your Video is like a TYSON fight. I sneezed, said "Gazuntite", and missed the whole thing.

I love watching this channel and having it as a reference. Where is Scanner's shop located? I wish he could help me figure a p0765 p0768 "shift solenoid d" electrical fault. The funny thing is, the solenoids aren't changeable, you have to change the whole pack, 6F50 Ford. This is the second allegedly new one I've tried, both, display different issues. One wouldn't recognize the TSS sensor, now this one says shift solenoid d issue. I'm using FORscan to try and figure it out. The shift solenoid d light didn't come on until I had shifted gears in place for a while. Everything was really smooth at first, then after shifting N,R,N,D,R,D,N with at least 4-second poses in between, it eventually pops the codes. Maybe the fluid is contaminated somehow, even though not old. Thanks for your awesome videos, Scanner Danner!

thank you u are the best teacher.

Danner, I had a case two days ago with a computer ground not fully grounded to chassis. The voltage I was seeing at the sensor ground from computer was 5 volts (as if it was a reference voltage). I was puzzled why I was seeing 5 volts on the ground with key on engine off. I was expecting to see zero volts but I was seeing exactly 5 and that was consistent for all sensor grounds that were shared from the PCM. Resistance from battery post was 0.1 ohms, with plug disconnected from PCM (isolated). I also unbolted the ground where it was connected to the car frame and had about 6 pins that were spliced somewhere and fed into the PCM. I did a voltage drop test measurement while the PCM was connected and I could see noice but voltage was near zero. I would touch a good ground and the line would almost flat out, the noise I was seeing from the computer I thought were from sensors deaeing little current etc but I was still suspecting a bad ground. Like I mentioned before, when I removed the bolted ground, the wiring and bolt looked clean, little smudges on it because if being old etc but I cleaned it anyway just for kicks and after that, all issues were gone. The car would start, throw me all kind of codes, including the ECT, MAP, CAM sensors, engine oil temp, transmission pressure line with the thing in common of High circuit and at some point low circuit (based on the type of current the computer needed to see). Symptom was a long crank before start and no acceleration (ECT was dead). This was a 2014 Dodge caravan that was in an accident that damaged the PCM, replaced ECM and dealer suggested then to replace the wiring as the plugs were damaged, reprogrammed the PCM as the owner had told me that it started only once with no acceleration but then it would not start, it started for me but like I explained. The key point here is that i did a drop voltage test on the ground and when unplugged, it looked perfect, when plugged and ignition on, I could see noise and I attacked the ground. The thing was that the ground did not look bad at all and could have fooled anyone, in this case the ground had some sort of resistance which would not send them out from the PCM. After I cleaned and bolted everything back together. I took a measurement at the sensor grounds and the voltage was perfect zero and no noise or 5 volt as the initial reading. Would it be safe to say that the ref signal was being passed through one of the sensor if it were to be unplugged from the PCM or the PCM sending that bad signal intentionally because the ground was not gold enough? Unfortunately I dont remember testing that pin out from the wire unplugged, if I recall correctly I think it was outputting 5v because the other plug was still on so I think the computer was defaulting to 5 volts as bias when no ground was present. This was a huge experience for me.

these are great videos, thank you.

Im amazed that cars run at all with so many plastic crap sensors to go wrong.

Danner thanks so much for you video your personality ! approach ! techniques ! are second to none !!!!!! absolutely the best i have seen you have given me insight and pleasure to delve further than i thought were my limitations ! with great enthusiasm with your video,s to back up i feel confident god bless you and your family regards steve england

Bro excellent job of explaining everything with detail.... I couldn't like And subscribe fast enough!!