dcpc08161992 can still use a ratchet.

there are 12 volt ones availabe

Keep an impact in your vehicle then

Yeah buy a cheap ratchet or drill from like harbor freight

thats not a problem. the problem is when the extremely high torque impacting action breaks the non-impact rated thread, and the car drops, or worse, it fractures it, and the car drops while yr head is under it. use a drill with smooth torque, not an impact tool. its like he is putting a spanner on the jack, then hitting it repeatedly with a sledge hammer

I find that extremely unlikely

@@MarcGyverIt I agree

I've done it and it did indeed destroy the jack. To the doubters you don't know.

@@fukofffukwits man seems like you didn’t know what you were doing then lmao

@@Phuong_Nguyen_ probably had it at high rpm.

Same. My dad always taught me to NEVER trust the jack, no matter why kind of jack. If its not on jack stands, chocked, and e-braked, i dont get under it.

a scissor lift has a scissor action, a pantograph (the thing on the roof of trams and electric trains) do not. they have a cantilever action.

Oh come on... At LEAST 5 minutes. 🙄

@@nonamenoname4641 4 minutes

sounds good. add me & tag me on instagram when you get it! @imstricken06

any good lithium battery last charged for months

I don't charge the battery in my car. I check the battery once a month including the second backup battery.

Michael -Spark plug sockets are available in 5/8 to 13/16 in 3/8 drive, and most any auto parts store will have a deep well 7/8 in 3/8 drive.

You can purchase the top of the line $180msrp Craftsman 19.2V 1/2" impact wrench w/ 4ah XCP Li-ion battery for as low as $130-135 [stack discounts for $95-100 total, $13.75 tool only or $18.75 tool + $20 items, if ebay battery&charger] when it's on sale at sears.com/in-store. Stacking when a $130 sale price with the the other discounts discussed later, [gift card/cashback/coupons/etc], for example, will make it $95 ($180 msrp...but, it's essentially always on sale, usually at a higher sale price. ie. Right now it's $150) You can purchase their lower models for as low at $90 on sale (before stacking other discounts, but has significantly less torque, and has a much weaker battery. (You can even ebay the 4ah battery from the $180msrp model, to drop your cost to $130 low sale price- 15% GC - 8% cashback - $5 coupon [or $20 coupon if purchase an extra $20 items] - $58.83 (ebay battery for $60 + $8 S&H [use usps flat rate envelope for $6.25] - $9.17 [ebay/paypal fees]) =$36.27 total or $41.27 for the tool only & $20 worth of items. Or $95- $78 (ebay $90 battery + charger..although one sold for $99.56 last week = $87.50 after fees + $6.25 shipping.. = $13.75 total for tool, or $18.75 including $20 in items...these prices as $99.56 battery/charger ebay selling ) = or ebay $90 battery/charger for a $17 total or $22 including $20 worth of extra items Don't forget to use a cashback site, to get upwards of 8% cashback right now, but I honestly never heard of the higher percentage companies. So, make sure to visit one of the sites which compares the cashback sites, such as Cashbackholic.com , etc [you can google cashback compare, to get a longer list of comparison sites] Plus, from time to time, you can purchase sears gift cards for a significant discount [ie. as of right now, 6/2/17, ON EBAY, YOU CAN PURCHASE $100 SEARS.COM gift cards for $85 each, SO PURCHASE 2 x $100 GC's = $170, unless you ,,o to purchase only wone ] You can either wait for 15% off, once these sell out, or visit a gift card comparison site, such as giftcardgranny.com, etc By stacking both discounts, you can get it for $130 - 8% ($10.40) - 15% ($19.50) = $100.10 But...DO NOT FORGET TO USE COUPONS! They always have a minimum of a $5 off $50 coupon, so check retailmenot.com for coupons, ALWAYS! Right now you can use a $20 off $150 coupon, to get $20 worth of items for free (ie. 9700077204246011 till 6/10/17) Or, if desperate for it right now, use that coupon to make it $150 - $20 coupon = $130 - 15% GC discount($19.50) - 8% cashback ($10.40) = $100.10 then . www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-c3-189-8221-heavy-duty-impact-wrench-kit-powered-by-4ah-xcp76

Here's one for $170. www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCJQH1I/?coliid=I1M5BRW05KX87T&colid=I6UZIVN57WE1&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

GRADY JONES Thats why you always use stands. If you dont, you are risking yourself and playing with your life

Of course but faster the more fun it gets

Amazon

I do.

I have to back up MrZX's advice here. I have used several scissor jacks with impacts as well. It does tend to eventually tear up the screw mechanism. I haven't had a jack fail while it was jacked up, but I could easily see this happening. I think the next thing to try would be a heavy duty corded drill instead. Also there are a few new scissor jacks on Amazon with the nut already on it.

what about just using a regular drill?

Not enough torque to raise most cars.

can you estimate what would be the minimum necessary torque rating on a drill to raise a car with a scissor jack?

You could figure that out by knowing the weight of thing you are lifting, and the mechanical advantage ratio of the jack you are using.

Not true. The same could be said about torque, it could pull the jack. An impact wrench don’t do heavy hits, it does a lot of small hits that equal to vibration that turns the nut. It doesn’t hit like a sled hammer that you imagine.

Better

agreed. i use a heavy duty 2.5 ton scissor jack over a hydraulic for car repair, not just changing a flat tire. even if i used a hydraulic jack i would still always use jack stands. i only use the scissor jack or whatever jack to lift the car.

Floor jack saves the day

You removed lugnuts with a drill?? 🤔

Loosen first spin off with drill spin on with drill tighten with lug wrench

Lograste conseguirlo? Te funciono? Quiero saber para comprarlo!!! Saludos desde Juncos, Puerto Rico

I have an impact with lug but sockets in my car 24/7. I don’t wanna be on the side of the road any longer than I need to. Plus I have a bad back. I can do a 3min tire change.

@@imstricken06 Cool. Be careful out there when you do a tire change with a scissors jack; they have been known to fail by tipping over & such. I found that using a 24mm socket over the end of my scissors jack fits perfectly but I think the original crank is faster (by hand).

Floor jack would eliminate all this bumblefuckery

thought the same thing

Hurts to watch

Are you sure? I have been using the scissor jack with the makita impact driver for the last 15 years never have any problem.

you're welcome. I think I just saved everyone $26 or more.

no, the piece on the jack has rounded edges. i tried that. it slips

I have tried that method with a socket and you're right. It eventually slips. I usually use a cheap socket that I don't care about to get it approx. half way up and I have to stop and use the hand crank to finish it. Also my jack is tapered and not flat so I have to really push hard on it to get it hold.

Ray Smith Hey guys sorry for the delay. Here is my assessment: IT works PERFECTLY for me. I didnt need to purcase any additional tools or equipment. I have the same exact jack and I used a standard 6 point 15/16 SAE socket and it easily cranked up my friend's vehicle like churned butter. At first I thought it'd slip but I didn't. And I tried several times. This leads me to believe that you want to avoid using a 12 point socket at all costs because that is what will cause the slippage and worse, grind out the metal surface with every turn. Additionally, you must make sure that you are on the lowest torque setting as to not burnout your internals or accidentally round out the jack and socket being used. I also suspect that if using a much lower quality 15/16 SAE socket made of say steal, you know, the ones that are usually sold in dollar stores or something, well the inside may have already gotten rounded out enough to cause the slippages you've encountered. There is a reason why tradesmen who earn their living using tools avoid those kinds of sockets at all costs. It may be advisable to get a higher quality Chrome Vanadium metal socket instead which are know to stand up to mechanics standards. With that said, I watched videos of other folks doing this on their standard jack (links provided on my earlier comment) and just had to try it myself. Mind blown away. After using the socket technique on my jack to lift up both wheels, I ended up completing much needed front end suspension work that I have been delaying simply because I didn't have one of those heavy duty hand cranking jacks. Hope this helps you guys out.

Again, in my case, a good quality 15/16 SAE socket worked out perfectly for me. Obviously if you have a slightly different size or shape jack, go with a socket that fits snug over the lever thingy and make sure to keep your tool on lowest torque setting. Slow and consistent is always better than impatience since it'll potentially lead to rounded out socket.

Dumb. The fastener won’t hold if it’s stripped.

That's exactly what I think, too. I wouldn't want to carry both a rotary drill and an impact wrench in my car. I'd prefer to just keep the impact wrench, since it's useful for tire lug nuts. Are there any hybrid combo tools that can have both features in 1, with a mode for rotary drill and another mode for impact wrench? I've heard there are hybrid combo tools which have a rotary drill mode and an impact driver mode, but since an impact driver has lower torque than an impact wrench, I'd worry that the impact driver mode wouldn't be enough to handle lug nuts.

How long would solid rubber tires last on a car?

There's probably a few reasons: 1. They are cheap to make -- reduces cost to make vehicle and allows manufacturer to sell for lower price or increase their profit. 2. They are lightweight -- manufacturers try to save every pound they can to improve fuel economy. 3. They are dependable -- after sitting in your trunk completely neglected for 20 years, they'll still probably work. 4. They are compact -- many cars these days are so low to the ground that it would not be possible to position any other sort of jack under the car at the proper jack points (pinch welds). Sure, there are some low profile floor jacks that are available, but those are for shop use. Most people with cars that are that low to the ground are not going to routinely carry a low profile floor jack with them in the back of their car. There are some mechanical screw type bottle jacks that were supplied with some vehicles over the years. I have one from a vehicle that used to own. This type of jack is also too high for use with many of the cars these days that have minimum ground clearance. Being purely mechanical, they will last a long time with no maintenance also. These days I only use this jack for when I'm needing to replace a garbage disposal under a sink. It's light and compact and can hold the unit while I'm finishing the replacement -- basically a second set of hands in a crowded space. Here's an example of that sort of jack: encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRc-YkdLHctt0grdQcTAKP532xUnAOVAiDi-_9lLrQwDrtAXWg7 Hydraulic jacks (even small bottle jacks) weigh more and since they have hydraulic fluid in them and various seals, it is not uncommon to see them leak hydraulic fluid after a long period of time. Assuming that you are storing the scissor jack in a way that would promote rust (e.g. wet and salty), then they are going to still be in workable condition in 20 years.

And i mean like just regular people

This is what you need. www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCJQH1I/?coliid=I1M5BRW05KX87T&colid=I6UZIVN57WE1&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

..lots of rv'ers do..

I do but I have the Makita XWT08Z impact wrench. I also have full size spare tire, lantern w/ emergency blinker, 6 fix-a-flat cans, first aid kit, 14-piece impact socket set, torque wrench, working gloves, and a tire inflator. If I get a flat, I can back on the road in 15 minutes with a full size tire replacement.

Why not buy a bottle jack? I got me a 4 ton bottle jack for 14 dollars, is small so it fits everywhere. And it's far more simple to use it.

I still need the impact wrench to take out the lug nuts and a jack stand for insurance. It is too much effort for me to use the tire iron.

I do and I have a regular SUV

I Break

I have my older model Milwaukee m18 impact in the trunk all the time. I have a shitty back and don’t want to be pulling Lugnuts with a wrench. So yes.

If you buy this adapter you're probably going to have access to an impact gun in your car. That's why you would buy it ... If you want to jack the car up fast and easy you will carry the impact wrench

MY reasoning is flawed? According to who- you? LoL. I always have an impact with me and a couple deep sockets that also fit lugnuts not just this socket. And you’re arguing how it takes a few seconds to get hit by a car - and I was arguing for how spending more time than needed on the wise of the road increases the LIKELIHOOD of getting hit. That’s two diff arguments. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Drills don’t have enough torque to lift a car. A drill will only unfold it if under a camper.

@@imstricken06 get a better drill. my drill has plenty of power to lift an SUV on a scissor jack, and it wont cause the fucking jack to break and kill whoever is under the car. jacks are NOT impact rated. they are mild steel.

Not skocum As frig

What do you drive a gokart? How small is your trunk?? This impact then removes lugnuts quickly and installs them too. I can change a flat tire in about 2-3 minutes from trunk open to trunk closed. Every minute on the side of a highway is an extremely dangerous place to be.

I swap mine every other month and they are always almost fully charged. I’m disciplined enough so my wife doesn’t need to worry about tools, flats, etc. I’ll come take care of it for her.

@@imstricken06 ...GOOD BOY... NOW WE KNOW WHO TO CALL!