Good to hear Jon - thanks!

You're welcome James. Hope it helps.

Thanks Fiona - glad it helped.

Thanks john. No need for tape. The downcut blades give a perfectly clean cut on the face. Obviously the reverse side will chip but in the case of infills this won't be seen. Do make sure the sole of the jigsaw is clean and free of damage that could cause scratches.

You are welcome. I hope it helps.

Thanks Jon - glad it helped. Remember the downcut blades!

@@donutpanic I did! Following your advice, re the blade just ordered a pack of 5 from Amazon. I think I might prototype it before attempting the cut on the finished item too. Not a massive fan of jigsaws to be honest.

@@TheJonkilleen it's that or a fretsaw! Ensure you hold the jigsaw on to the work firmly as the downcut blades push the tool up. You'll love the jigsaw once you've finished - have fun.

Thanks Brian. The compass is set to the line already drawn with the offcut. If that isn't what you meant ask again.

I presume you mean the skirting board? Best to leave it intact in case the furniture is ever removed.

Is that how is called? I know that as baseboard but anyway thats a great idea to scribe

@@jexxux1 Thanks!

But that's no fun :)

The edge that goes against the carcase needs to be straight, so will usually have been cut on a table saw, but you could use a circular saw. We nest all of our parts from jumbo sheets on a CNC router including the fillers, so they are dead straight and parallel.

Thanks for the comment. I''m not sure I understand your question. The block needs to be the exact width of the filler, or better still, cut from the end of it. As long as the filler is at least as wide as the widest part of the gap, it doesn't matter how wide it is. You can trim back with the jigsaw if required - you can't plane it if it is concave anywhere along its length. Cut for a good fit, but not a tight fit so that you don't damage the filler or the wall. Let me know if that wasn't what you meant!

@@donutpanic Hello again. Getting closer to doing this for our wardrobes. I understand how wide the block should be (same as the filler piece you're cutting from) but when you are scribing for a large end panel that is about 635mm wide, do you still use a block piece the same size as that? I was wondering if there is another trick as it would be a bit more awkward handling a larger block, but happy if not! Cheers

@@najlatois If you look at my video on scribing the bridge panel that should answer your question. You need to cut the amount it overlaps by at the front off the back. You could cut a small block to this size or use a compass. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iZyUfJRm37eslJs.html

@@donutpanic Fantastic! I'll cut a small block. Great videos. Thanks a million!

In what circumstance would you want to do that? However, you would line the edge of the infill with the inner edge of the carcase.

Cloppa2000 As long as the wall is a suitable finish and light colour like this, then yes. Some acrylic caulk gunned in to the gap and immediately wiped off with a damp cloth to leave nothing on the surface looks good. It is not essential or an excuse for sloppy scribing!

Thanks for replying so quick. Can I ask how would you fix the filler pieces in place? And with a high ceiling, would you put anything along the top or just have these fillers finish flush with the top as you show here.. Oh and one more.. If you have sliding doors, would you have them slide right up to the wall?

Cloppa2000 We fix by screwing from the inside. You can hide the screws at the side under the hinge plates. We make our wardrobes to 75mm from the ceiling if using a plain infill, and 120mm if fitting a cornice, in which case the infill goes behind the cornice. We are bespoke so don't have large infills at the top. We can make doors up to 2500mm so with a 100mm plinth and 120mm top infill we can cope with most tall ceilings! Our sliders usually still have full carcasses with the doors hung from the top, so side infill is as usual. If using a conventional sliding system it is usual to put a strip against the wall for the door to close onto. If the wall is really out of plumb this can have a scribed filler to set it off the wall to give a vertical surface to close onto. Hope that helps!

It should be a snug, but not tight fit. Simply push it into place so that it is flush and screw in place from inside the carcase ideally under a hinge plate. If you push it in too far it can be tricky to retrieve but not impossible - insert a screw a short way and push above or below to pivot it back out and start again.

Thanks Mike.

Have a look at my other videos.

Hi Victor. That is what the video explains! You do not measure it! If it doesn't become clear when you watch it right through again, ask again.

Are you in the USA?

@@donutpanic No, England.

As you will have seen, the bulk of the scribing doesn't use a compass but rather an offcut. For the bits that do require a compass I currently use an accuscribe but with the rear bumps cut off, or Axminster Tools dividers. Any will do as long as they hold their position.

I would have moved the socket. The customer however wanted this, and as we know, the customer is always right.

Hi Graham. The side fillers are fixed with screws hidden under the hinge plates.

You can also attach a batten along the straight edge on the back side of the filler. This gives you a larger area to screw into and can help keep your infill square