Happy to share. Hope the install went well.

@@ScrufsGarage it was a good time, took longer than I hoped but those things always do

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.

Awesome, glad the video was helpful. I've been very happy with my DRM Bilsteins, hopefully yours come in soon!

Thanks for watching! Always happy to share!

Thanks man, really appreciate it!!

I think you'll still need to remove the upper control arm to get tension off the spindle. So long as the leaf spring is still pushing down on the lower control arm, and the upper control arm is still mounted to the frame, then there will be pressure on the spindle. But unbolting the upper control is very easy, so not much to worry about there. You may have already seen it, but I also did a video on replacing the leaf springs. You may find that helpful; at least for the removal part. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b9uVi8x_x8-bc2g.html is the front. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r9J0jbuSz9LOY2g.html is for the rear. Good luck!

Hi. Good comment to the work. Maybe a stupid question, but is it necessary to adjust the steering geometry after the shock replacement job? Thanks in advantage.

@@Wagabugu No it is not nessesary, because the Ride Hight are the same. Shocks dont change the Ride Hight. But ... Adjusting the Steering and Wheel Geometry is always good after 2-3 years, when you drive the Car fast and sporty. When you dont drive on the Limit, you dont have to adjust it.

Thank you very much kallo182 for the quick answer! With kind regards.

Thanks! Always nice to hear a video has helped someone else!

Kinda hard to comment on the difference because I swapped to the Z06 springs at the same time. But overall I was very happy with the handling and the ride quality. Worth the effort.

Ehm, no. You dont have to take off any Control Arm. Actualy the Front are more easy than the rear.

For those watching this now, the answer is yes.

I did not, I was able to reuse my original bolt and didn't have any issues. Though I suppose if you are in a more rust prone area, or a higher mileage car, getting a new bolt probably isn't a bad idea.

Disclaimer: I went almost a year and half w/o driving the car while I was rebuilding the engine etc. That said, I swapped in the DRM Bilsteins and Z06 leaf springs at the same time. (Previously I had base springs and Bilstein Sport shocks). I was mildly concerned that the ride would be stiff. But it's not at all. Honestly I barely notice the difference (the wife didn't notice either). The ride is very composed, and normal bumps aren't bone jarring. I haven't had a track day with it yet, but I'm confident it will be much more settled.

My main goal in changing mine was to improve handling. Though by 80k miles, if you still have the factory shocks, they're likely starting to show some wear.

I ordered mine directly from DRM several months ago, no issues with availability at that point. Sorry to hear they are out of stock right now. Hopefully they'll get more soon. Thanks for watching.

Freshly restocked at DRM. Just received mine today and watching Scruf for the install. Thanks Scruf!

Same! Been waiting since April 2018

What is the importance of the top hex on the top of shock bolt? What if my mechanic negates in holding down hex stem while tightening top bolt of shock?

James Calero when the suspension is unloaded your shock will clunk if it’s not held down tight on top.

Only if they're the magnetic dampers

Depending on your year, this means you have the F45 or F55 suspension. Another indicator is a 3 position switch in the center of your console with Tour, Sport, Performance settings. If this is the case you can switch to Bilstein shocks, but will either have to purchase some resistor caps to plug into your wiring loom or disconnect the active suspension module and have a GM tech reprogram your BCM with a TEC II update to remove the F45 or F55 option from your vehicle. I recommend the latter. You can also purchase the active replacement shocks from GM for somewhere between $300 and $400 per shock.

Typically a sign that the shocks are going bad is that they no longer dampen the oscillation of the suspension after hitting a bump; ie the the car continues to bounce up and down. A rattling noise could be something loose in the suspension. Rattles can be tricky to track down. Get the car up on jack stands and go through the suspension and exhaust system. Gently bang on various components and see if you can duplicate the rattle. I had a clunk when turning that I couldn't track down once. So I re-torqued all of my suspension mounting points with a torque wrench and that cured the noise even though nothing was "loose."

@@ScrufsGarage Thank you for your advice. I decided to install new shocks, sway bars and new bushings and end links as well. that would be fine I hope. getting it done this coming week. I will keep you posted. thanks again

Rafael Grullon well how did it go, I have the same bang noise on a 2002 Z with 74k miles.

Sounds like you have the magnetic ride control shocks which are different than the standard shocks.

Yes I believe so. I removed some older Bilstein Sport shocks, so I didn't have OE shocks to compare with.

No change in ride height. You can adjust the ride height bolts if you need to make adjustments.

Zip-ty method.

You dont need to remove any control arms.