Mee too

​@@SekAustria😅

I've got a forge for smelting aluminum, brass and copper but I currently use propane for fuel, I really should build one of these to run it instead. This might just be my next project.

🤣

😅😅😅😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣

Thanks and welcome

Thank you very much!

Not to hijack this guys work but when I built my babbington burners the hole required to atomize the fuel was 30 to 40 thousands of an inch as opposed to this design which is much bigger! Babbinton burners dont mix the fuel with the air the same way. This design mixes fuel with the air then it is ignited. In a Babbington burner the fuel trickles down over a brass doorknob (ball) with the 30 / 40 thou. Hole drilled into the front of the doorknob. The air goes into the doorknob and is not mixed with the fuel as the point of ignition is right after the ball! The fuel runs down over the front of the ball where the small diameter hole is and the xcess fuel runs into a sump where it is pumped back up to a container then gravity fed down over the ball again to repeat the process! Or you can not pump it so that when the fuel runs out the burner goes out! A needle or 1/4 turn valve is used to control the flow of fuel as well as a valve to also control the air! They only need a small compressor to feed about 30 to 40 psi. An airbrush or in my case a used refrigerator compressor worked great! They burn any kind of fuel cept gasoline and burn blue once the air/ fuel mixture is dialed in! There is no smoke if they are tuned correctly suggesting a mostly complete 100% combustion! Mine really worked well and I actually built 3! One guy in the group I was in built a really nice one out of all stainless steel and used it to heat his house! Most used them as shop heaters and the like by shooting it thru a long like 4in steel pipe with a 90deg bend straight up for a vent to the outside! The actual burner being outside the shop or whatever and the 4” pipe going along the inside wall of the shop then up so it could vent! They burn very clean but a vent is still necessary for the carbon monoxide produced! In fact when mine got hot there was virtually no smell at all!

I think the fine mist created this way is more important, otherwise the droplets may not fully burn and cause a dirty flame full of soot.

@@TDG2654 but they dont! You get almost 100% atomization! You can tell by the color of the flame! Blue then white and you have no soot! A lot of it is how well you build the thing too including what tools you have to work with! If you have access to a metal lathe and can tig weld etc…it will go a long way towards your final product! I did not but still managed to build at least one that would burn white hot using atf (transmission fluid) just what I had laying around at the time!

I was thinking that myself!

Thank bro ako din try ko , gagawa akk inggot na copper baka mag mahal sa hinaharap hahah

​@@SekAustriawhy'd you just start speaking tongues?

Thanks!

You'll end up fouling your metal unless you have a closed top crucible, any metal melted from waste oil will result in a brittle cast that forms cracks easily and has no tensile strength, best just to stick to LPG.

@@alexanderwoolley1623 thank❤

Go for it!

But don't forget to just buy a dozen air compressors to provide large quantities of compressed air

@@dimmer4955 At least a baker's dozen...

I have a 7 Hp 300 gallon compressor/tank in my shop that I bought from a body and panel repair shop that closed over the Plandemic.

@@Biokemist-o3kReally, it's a good thing. But there is one small trifle: you need to calculate the cost of electricity and equipment depreciation to produce heat from this gizmo.

@@dimmer4955 except it doesnt take a large quantity of air! A small compressor is all you need maybe 30psi.! I used a compressor out of an old refrigerator! Those are a dime dozen too! I can tell you have never built one of these so maybe go educate yourself a bit before tearing down something you have no idea what you are talking about!

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you! Cheers!

Welcome 👍

Thanks! You too!

Thank you! Cheers!

Yes i think any kind of oil will work! You can use maybe minimum of 10 psi

@@SekAustria I think at least 10 times more. And minimum 300 L\min komressor needed.

You can pressurize the fule tank to reduce the air requirements also.

Thank you 😋

That will surely good.

Ou um tubo soldado ,com um ou dois pontos de contacto no queimador, antes do injetor de óleo ??? Seria suficiente para aquecer e tornar mais fluido ,o óleo???

Thank you! Cheers!

Many thanks!

Yeah

Waste oil

Yes it works like a spray gun.

Do you mean as a heater to your workshop? Not a good idea because it has a scent of burnt oil

Basically made a Venturi valve

The venturi effect pulls from the oil container. So the air keeps the air out of the oil.

For melting metal forge, and it doesnt consume too much air, i think its worth it

@@SekAustria I gotcha

These burn waste oil of any type and can have a huge btu output for melting.

I only use used oil. You can try diesel

Sa pang madalian na resto pweds na pweds

I dont have an idea about steel cone bro

I would try to find something about schedule 40 to fabricate the cone.

I dont have calculations, but will depend on your needs. In my case im using it to my metal melting forge and its not that eats a lot of oil, id say it will consume 1/2liter of oil melting an aluminum with my crucible full.

Yes i might change it design into that.

Teria de ter uma chaminé muito longa na vertical e que fosse afunilando ligeiramente até ao topo .

Yep

This might work but the output is to high for that use. Maybe driplone oil into a closure with a blower. This is a small one but they burn gallons per hour

@@sparksmcgee6641Thanks for the info!

Compressed air.

Thanks for the tip

Safety Sissy

@@paujeppesen6567 no dick, it’s common sense, you should try it yourself occasionally

@@paujeppesen6567 Para mim segurança acima de tudo.👍👍👍👍

They mix in front of the air opening. That's where the venturi effect happens