Back in the late 1990's I worked at Polaris of Texas as a yard helper with my best friend. When the mechanic quit the owner came back there and showed us where the shop manuals were at and told us to get to work fixing the 4-Wheelers and water craft. The best I remember on those Sportsman 400's is that you almost always had to pull the front diff and split it to remove a broken left axle.

You can try drilling holes in the axle cup, run a bolt through and connect a chain to the bolt. Use a winch or come along to pull the cup out of the socket.

Check that muffler, if it is a stock harley muffler then it has a plug in it about halfway down. It could just be too restricted for that machine. There is a reason why they are the first things removed from Harleys.

I have been looking for quads for me and the wifey. I don't mind used but poor maintenance and 12 feet of snorkel are huge red flags for me. She has her heart set on a new pink Honda TRX250 we saw and I am open to any 4WD utility quad over 500cc. A pair will cost ~16K and a SxS is not appealing to either of us. You seem to have fantastic luck finding these bargains. I am jealous of your successful hunting tactics.

Drill sideways through the CV axle cup. Put a grade 8 through bolt in it. Strap the atv to a tree or something sturdy. Use a Winch or come alone to along tree or truck and pull the CV cup out. Works everytime without breaking anything. Just need some trees close together

I just had a similar issue with a CV axle on a early 2000s Cadillac, the trick to use a pribar behind the CV housing putting pressure outward at the same time you are using the slide hammer, a good friend to help ya makes it a lot easier, Ive been in the automotive field for 14 years as of early September...many years, but ya find new ways to help ya out all the time.

when CV stuck cup is stuck like that, the best method is to drill through the splined shaft and fill the void with WD40 or another penetrating fluid leave it to soak, sometimes for weeks then try the slide hammer again. if that fails tap the hole and fit a air connector and fill the void again, use air to force the WD40 into the splines until it gives way. Common problem on the Honda Fl400r pilot where they get dipped in water this method has never failed me yet but they can put up a fight. P.S. fix the Hovercraft i can't stand to see it rotting in your field anymore.

Joe pull the front housing out and cut the outer wishbone off and pull the housing apart so you can take it apart and save the case and bearings. After you should be able to put it on a press and press it out...

Joe, my brother had a Cub Cadet ATV with a front axle seized in like that. He brought it to me, and I FINALLY got it to come out. It took several sessions per day, over 3 or 4 days, of soaking it in penetrating oil, heating it with a torch, water quenching it, pounding on it (in and out) while prying, re-soaking with penetrating oil, and cycling through those techniques over and over and over again. It finally relented. I think the combination of heat, oil, and pounding eventually broke up the rust enough around the locking ring it finally broke free. BUT you have to stay after it, and keep pounding on it. The penetrating oil I used was Tri-Flow. It's pretty expensive, but it is for reasons. I don't use it except the last case, as it's way more cost effective to use Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster first, if those will work (which they do 80% of the time). That Tri Flow is amazing stuff though. You'll get it.

Had a family on hard times living in a suburban..driving through our small town the pitman arm came loose off the linkage but seized on box. I spent 9 hours heating, hammering and pickle forking it..snapped 3 types of pullers etc..but I got it off and sent em on no charge but an hour...that was my dumbest choice but most generous gift that year.

Like others said put a wedge between the axle and the housing to keep pressure on the axle so it can’t bounce back and forth and it should come out. it will keep the clip from expanding back after each pull.

Thank God you've finally corrected your camera angle up, so viewing the ride portion of your videos is actually viewable with getting a headache! I freaking love your channel brother! I can't say enough about you, so I'll end this with a your out fucking standing!

Santa's stocking stuffer for Joe: One large ball peen hammer😅😊 Great video! Allan in Columbia, SC

That exhaust slip on is for a harley sportster But the best thing you can try is take the other side apart. Get that CV axel out and put a solid rod in there and beat it from the other side pushing it out I had to do that on a older sportsman qaud once

I do like watching Joe's videos, but sometimes I question some things he does. 1) He knows the belt is hammered and it slips, why keep loading it up and pulling with it? 2) You're probably going to have to pull the front differential. I think something is going to get wrecked if you keep trying to hammer that stub shaft out. Maybe he'll prove me wrong 🤞

Take the plow off while riding off road ! If you hit a big bump over the bars you will be lol ! Nice score bro

The house is really looking great. You've made some nice improvements. Don't know how you're going to get the broken cv axle out but I'll be sure to watch your next post on this machine. Thanks again for your time today.

I have solved the same CV issue by welding a plate to the stuck CV axle that has 2 or 3, 3/4" nuts also welded on it so you can thread a long 3/4" bolt into each nut. Take some pieces of scrap metal as backers so you don't damage to housing and crank on the bolts in an even pattern, hit it with a hammer as you are pulling and it should help free up that snap ring and it should pull the shaft out. I have had to do this many times when coming across frozen CV shafts in SXS and ATV's.

I have had good luck getting stubborn CV axles out by wedging a prybay between the axle and the front diff, holding pressure on it with my foot while sitting on the ground and tapping the top of the axle stub with a large hammer. Pops right out. Have 4 polaris sportsmans, 3 with over 10000 kms on them. Changed many seized broken axles. Coat new one with anti seize.

I had a buddy with that exact model...put 32,000 miles on it planting pot all over 3 counties. Still ran like new when he sold it . ..

Just a heads up, you better hope that snow plow don't accidently fall down while riding that thing 60 mph in the field, wouldn't be pretty if it did that's for sure.

In mechanics shops in the rust belt I always seem to see people using slide hammers with a rag tied to the handle. They pull on the rag not the handle itself. I'm not sure if that would help

To remove a stuck cv cup like that, remove the other side axle and youll be able to get a punch in behind the stuck cup through the diff

It might only have 1,200 miles but it looks like it was ridden hard and put up wet.

If it’s like an Arctic Cat CV. You have to push in on the shaft to release the circlip inside, then pull the hub of the shaft out at same time as pushing in on the shaft. U don’t have the shaft, so may have to push in on the center of that hub where the shaft used to be to release the internal circlip. Yes it’s a pain, even when it’s an intact CV shaft.

That's on the CV Axle half shaft. Those are A you know what to get to release and slide out for sure. Try smacking it with A nylon.,or rubber mallet to pop it in. then try pulling it straight out by hands.

I just wanna say I think it’s amazing that you do all these videos with so many different things I think it’s awesome keep up the good work

My 05 400 would run 55 mph. It also had a recall for the ignition module. Great machine when taken care of.

Stick 2 pry bars, opposite each other, between the case and the back side of the cup. pry on both bars at the same time to lever the cup free of the case. Sometimes you can get by with a single pry bar, but as hard as that cup is stuck, I'd use two to keep the pressure equal on both sides. You might even need to use the slide hammer in conjunction with the bars to shock the ring.

CVT belts dont really stretch, they just wear down. No different than tires. Theres a minimum width for all the belts and belt deflection should be checked and adjusted. I would be checking every belt on every machine you get. Belts should be getting replaced before they start to destroy themselves. Clutches should be clean and inspected for wear etc..

Rotate the CV about 1/4" each time you hit it with the slide hammer. The clip may need to shift a bit with gravity to come free. I had a Toyota RAV4 that was that way.

You are a hard worker Joe, thanks for bringing me along.. Great video quality

Thanks for the video mate, the Speedo at 1,200 miles is likely on its second lap around or it’s 1,200 miles doing the BAJA . Cheers from down under.

When I've had stuck cv axles I've used a pickle fork to get them out just gotta be very careful of the transfer case housing or differential housing

Your videos are fantastic! I love how meticulously you go over each machine. You’ve got some really great skills there. 👍

Another thing you may want to try on the CV joint is a ball joint separator. It looks like you could get one behind it without damaging anything. Just a thought.

With that cv the slide hammer is good but while ur slide hammering get ur buddy to lever a pry bar or screw driver or something between the cv and diff at the same time

BRAVO, you got it humming along. Another Great Video with lots of learning moments. Fantastic driveway, always remember drainage, where is that runoff going?

The Sportsman 400's were doggy from the factory. We had 3 brand new ones in the mid 2000's and all 3 were gutless.

On that carb you need to pull that plug on the air adjustment so it can be adjusted, they should be jailed for plugging them off. You cannot properly set a carb if you cannot adjust the air/gas needle. Just screw a metal or wood screw into the plugs hole and pop it out and adjust it like your supposed to do.

I just use a pry bar or 2 to pry against the cv from diff housing. Works when they are stuck.

Gunna have to split the front diff case to remove the clip holding the shaft. Its NOT a slip axle cvt, its held in with a cer clip.

I just picked up a similar quad, I used heat on that inner axle to get it off. Put a torch to it get her hot.then try pulling with your slide hammer. Also fyi there is another drain plug on the block that holds nearly another quart, mine had fuel in the oil like yours. You might consider draining all the oil. I like the videos,it inspires me to take on more than I usually might.

My fav channel!! Keep it up Joe! Vinny!!!!❤❤❤

You to apply pressure the other way with pry bars behind the cup . Keep it up and it will give .you can try with a small sledgehammer to hit the end of the cup and jarring the rust loose in the grooves on the end of the shaft .

Take the other driveshaft out... As others have suggested... Failing that make a form wedge up that can be hit down between the diff housing and shaft. a bit like form ball joint splitter or even two small crowbars might work! Good luck 💪

On cars I’ve seen stuck inner cv’s removed with a metal fork similar but bigger than a ball joint splitter,

I would fill that front diff with evaporust overnight. Then give it some inward hits in the morning. Drain the evaporust and fill with atf. Drive it like that a bit and give it more inward taps periodically. I bet it would come right out in a day or two.

My rhino had issues with the CVT sheaves worn flat Sometimes the thing would do 40 mph other times it would only do 30 mph full throttle. I would definitely look into belt and clutch function. I’m pretty sure the CVT systems are similar.

Usually take the other axle out if you can and punch the bad one out from that side with some penetrating oil.

This is one other way you can remove that CV axle half shaft out to Joe. Drill out A hole in the CV Axle hub to tap out A hole to thread in A longer shove bar to push it in to squeeze that clip in to release it to pull it straight out with and on the shove bar as one whole unit.

Great video Joe, your inspiring me to find a 4 wheeler at a great deal to see if I can get in running so I can plow snow this winter! Thanks for the great content, I really enjoy watching your videos.

I've run into this one a couple times in the past. The left side axle slides through the ring gear and it's almost impossible to remove without splitting the front differential. I've tried multiple methods to remove these axles and splitting the front diff was the only solution. Hopefully, you're able to remove it without removing the front diff.

Joe, as black as the oil was. I would have pulled the bottom drain plug also. There is probably half a quart left in the engine. You only did a partial oil change, this will be mixing fresh oil with old oil and get you new oil black again. You then have to pinch off the top breather line with a Vice grip and run it for 30 seconds or so to reprime the oil pump.

Dude it would be bad if that blade dropped while you was full throttle. You would look like super man flying through the air over the handle bars

It sounds and runs great. Good job joe

Does the front differential have fluid in it? Did you try tapping the broken end inward and using the slide hammer to yank outward from the farthest point the shaft would go inward? You might want to find a slide hammer with a heavier slide. The one that I use has a much heavier slide and it makes jobs easier. Had a similar problem removing a half shaft from a Dodge minivan with a lighter slidehammer. The heavier one made quick work of it.

Sacrifice a flat wrench and grind the jaws thinner to take the choke cables off those Polaris carbs. No more fighting. Also with that belt being that glazed I wouldn’t be surprised if the ramps in the secondary clutch are cooked out.

You could do with getting some constant tension pulling on that inner CV joint then try prying or slide hammering it out.

Had the same issue with my 05 sportsman 400 on the rear and it took forever to get it CV shaft out but we kept soaking around it with PB blaster and eventually were able to get it out with crow bars. Very difficult to get out though!

Put a giant pry bar behind it and pry. Same thing happens on cars. Pressure outwards from behind it.

Just score it with a cut off wheel in 2 or 3 places. Get it so it’s only a 1/16 inch think and hit with a chisel bit on a air hammer. It will crack the casting and fall off.

2 vintage come out to Saginaw Michigan, I have a 2005 polaris sportsman 700 Dale ernhart Jr edition that only has 900 miles been sitting for years but in really good condition I would let go for $1700. needs thew fuel and braking system gone over I also have a Gravely 250z Zero turn mower and possibly a nice 1985 Honda ATC200x and a 2016 Can am outlander 570 DPS Max 4x4 that needs a timing chain and tires.

So this is a trick, my grandfather told me about CV axles that are stuck take a logging chain. Because you don't have the CB axle head. You're gonna have to take and weld it to that cup. About 8 foot section of chain and whip it, and the kinetic force will pop the CV axle out. You may have to do it a few times I just had to do this to my son's 400 ho. Because his was stuck also popped right out.

Great video as always, Still just had a toilet problem, I am an X handyman, could not figure out why my secondary toilet would not flush? Did all the tricks, Ha! as per You Tube, and finally, Finally, FINALLY, figured out it was my almost new, plunger that the old one looked somewhat like your carburetor rubber! kind of corrugated? Bought another new one no ripples, like your carburetor black rubber guy, and voila one flush.

Looks like you have all the equipment to get that out, yes it’s going to take a lot of force to remove. Get a plate drill a hole in the middle, put a eye bolt in the hole now weld it to the old cv chain opposite side to some thing heavy to keep it in from moving on other side where the stuck cv is get a come a long clip it to the eye bolt and othe end to truck and start rocking truck back and forth it will come out. It was the only way I could get one out. When I put the new one in I put some anti seize so if I had to do it again it won’t be that tough

Iv used a winch before. If you have a pulley to mount in the garage you can even use the line from the plow

I found a KZfaq that removed cv axle like yours . You have to shoot some penitrateing Oil inside and put a pry bar on both sides of the aisle and pry at the same time .

Polaris is notorious for these axel problems. It may come down to drilling the stub out. It can be done on the machine but should be taken out. Cut off the CV joint cup, find center of stub drill it out . Often with all the pounding from removal tools, the bearing gets damaged and the diff has to be rebuilt anyway. Pull the front diff and work on it, while continuing to use the bike as two wheel drive.

that's a stock Harley exhaust ! I did a muffler delete on my Y2K Ford Windstar Van due to previous owners driving techniques and used the baffle in the tail pipe , sounds good ! 😋😉😉😋😋🤪🤪

Joe, remove that diff altogether and split it to remove the axel and also inspect for wear. Replace the seals and your good to go.

About the front axle, maybe call a dealer for that brand and ask if there is some special procedure to getting the old axle out. A service manual, perhaps? Maybe pull the whole front diff and you may have to pull some kind of retainer. That thing is weird. Is there a chance that the broken axle got twisted in the diff?

Pop out the other axle and use an air hammer to pop out the stuck cup from the other side

Try using an air hammer on the CV stub

Then side panels might be missing because you said he plowed snow with. You know yourself when you pushing snow with something like that that engine puts off a lot of heat it would help keep him warm. My opinion

should put edging kerb if it is not restrained then the edges of the surface tarmac can crack and crumble after repeated vehicle usage

I had the same problem getting an CV utta one of my old 4 wheelers and I chained the wheeler to a tree and used a come along Wench just to pull and put some pressure on it and I hit from the otherside with a pipe and hammer. Or drill and fill up with lube and keep banging away

I used a sledgehammer and solid 1 inch stainless bar to hit it from the other side and 6 hits popped it out. Circlip was rusted. Before i installed the new ones i packed grease inside the diff hub so they wouldnt ever do that again. Tried the welding trick with the slide hammer and no luck so had to take it to extremes 😂

There lots of good ideas on the axle removal, here one more Pickle Fork Ball Joint Separator

try pulling other axle out and maybe you can get the air hammer thru from other side and knock it free

I had the cv problem with my honda accord 20 years ago. fianally borrowed a snap on pry bar from my friend and it relented. Good luck it can be tough. Pry that baby out.

I just replaced shafts on the exact same atv,i wrap a strap around the part u cant get out then wrap it around a good pipe then a few good tugs it comes right out

Awesome buy Joe. It's A silencer chromed muffler pipe tip is what that's called Joe. It's A cheap Honda one cause Polaris took over the Honda four wheelers making. anyways now Days ever since the mid 1980'S. Is when that took place up to 2023 and so on so far. It's in your transmission filter and fluid needs changed out and flushed out good to. Yes that carburetor is dirty. It's overflowing from being dirty and clogged up. From debris and dirt and dust from all of the usage of it. Caused those issues for sure.Beings it's was used on A farm as A work UTV vehicle and snowplow vehicle also. That usually happens to that type of equipment and UTV'S due those reasons alone. A lot of times farmers don't check the motor oil.,an etc. On those types of UTV'S that they buy and own after years of usage either. Was it setting when you got it by A barn possibly? Or underneath A carport oning covered up with A trap.

The place that you buy tools for cars and trucks should sell a "pickle" fork for and air chisel in different sizes maybe try one and go between the case and the back of the axle

Like on A tire iron tool for lug nuts and A jack set-up the older style one's.

Tuggin on it hard then proceeds to say he can’t get it to come 🥴😂

Good to see you making videos again buddy much ❤

mat armstrong had the same shaft problem on his Lambo...He took the other side off and nocked it through the diff with a rod

i had a 4 wheeler with same problen i tryed everthing but axle would not come out ---then tryed a pickle fork and it took it out ---- i always put never seize on my stuff -- good video and good luck

When Joe cuts the grass he doesn't fool around 👍

That’s a Harley pipe lol I’m still watching but a big thing with the Polaris is the throttle contacts under the cover if they touch it’ll break up or not start

If it is like a car axel housing. Pull out the entire axel unit. Split it apart and remove the clip that is holding the axel. As you can tell by the new axel there is a thicker clip that holds it in.

hey Joe, that axle seem to give ya a p-lus... I may not know much.. may have to open the case, to remove the clip.. I done a few repairs involving removing bent axle half from front wheel drive.. un-bolt cv joint cage, remove the clip and the axle slip out like hot knife in butter

Sometimes on those axles you have to push in and the pry out to release that locking ring.

If by the end of this vlog you haven't managed to remove the broken driveshaft .Would it be easier to try to remove the other side if the diff unit is hollow all the way through and use a heavy drift and and heavy hammer to drive the broken piece out ?

The new hot mix drive and apron looks primo!!👍

Take a long heavy chain and hook it or weld it onto that broken piece of axle. Then crack the chain like a whip. It’ll take that axle out. Ive done that on a few different vehicles. Had an old timer teach me that trick.

Drill or grind an opening in the base of that" Cup." Use a puller on the inner STUCK shaft and cup. PB Blast it overnight first. You got this!

Front Axle .. Have u tried the .. push in and pull out sametime method “? That’s how my Artic cat is Spent time figuring it out til I was told I had to do the “” push in and pull out same time method “

I’d like to see a project involving an ATV with EFI to see how troubleshooting, cleaning, maintenance, etc. would differ.