Good job. Thank for your video 👍

The nuts and bolts for the detent spring “L-plates” and front of the gear stick mount should be 7/16”, which is between 10 and 11mm. It’s worth noting for followers on the rebuild that the three detent springs differ. There are two identical springs and one heavier. It is common for people to fit the heavy spring to the middle, under the brass plug or the fitting with the spring holding down the filler cap. The heavy spring is actually for the reverse shaft on the right and side, while the two identical springs are for 1/2 and 3/4 on the left and centre shafts. When you rebuild everything, the locking washer on the main shaft will need the tabs filing down by 1mm to fit within the overdrive input shaft - they were made specially for the application with shorter tabs than the original washers, but all the overdrive parts guys are stocking standard washers. The lateral movement on the input pinion when you removed the front bearing cover is not necessarily bearing play. The pinion has only the one bearing directly supporting it, and the main shaft has only one holding it in the casing. The front of the main shaft sits in a rolled bearing inside the back of the pinion, keeping them in line, but if the back of the main shaft is unsupported because the rear plate or overdrive is off, and the front of the pinion is not supported by the crank shaft spigot bush, then the two shafts will pivot in their roller bearings. Wear in any of those bearings is the primary cause of jumping out of gear.

Great job Mike. I'd have to take a gazillion photos and bag and tag everything as I was going to make sure I'd get it back together again, which would mean it would take twice/three times longer. Experience like yours makes a big difference.

The is a chap called steamwally on you tube who has done a full video series on series 3 gearbox rebuild. And it’s well worth a watch because there is a few tit bits such as that thick washer on the front of the lay shaft comes in different thickness in order to set the end float. Who knew? It’s very comprehensive and might be of assistance to you. It’s was to me.👍

Hi Mike. The reverse switch on my S3 suffix A box is on the gear stick housing. I wonder when LR changed its position. A mechanic told me about a S3 gearbox dropping out of gear on overrun. Although it was shimmed correctly, the problem was excessive end float on the main shaft because the rear bearing housing was worn .

i believe the top filler cap is wrong for that box the three little punch marks hold in the breather for later models

it's a militairy one

the cover plate is indeed military.. got one in my military series as well. it allows for quick oil fills from te top of the top.

Hi Mike, I’ve got a S3 military 109, same top plate with filler on mine.

that top cover is like a series one , havent seen them on any other model. that box looks like its had an overdrive on it

Mike my series 3 suffix D military recon box also has this filler at the top.... very difficult to access when the gearbox is installed when you have a centre cubbybox installed.

My Lightweight has one.

Military Series gearboxes came with a top filler. My Lightweight has one.

Name and shame the person who caused the wording at the start

Hello here from the UK Bit of a long shot but watched so many of your videos now you may know if it’s possible, is there a way to convert a 300 or Td5 transfer box to run 6x6 just like the Perentie ???

Hi Mike have an off topic question could you tell me what brand and size your ultra sonic cleaner is thanks Geoff

Disclaimer at the start of the video? Let me guess, someone has followed something in one of your videos and screwed it up,but it’s your fault ?

What is it with this Disclaimer thing it seems that everything is going PC if you have got to put this crap up every time is is going to be worth watching I have enjoyed your videos for a long time but I am not into this crap.