*I use this solar **Generater.Systems** at work. The building is 80 years old so there’s not a lot of electrical outlets. I use it for lights, fans, charge phones etc. works great !*

If your cable runs are longer, you will see the series connection outperform the parallel connection because of the higher voltage, less loss over the longer run.

We can think through the test with electrical concepts, too. Let's say we have panels rated for 20v and 5amps. In series, two panels would be 40v and 5 amps. In parallel, two panels would be 20v and 10amps. Voltage is what pushes the power and a higher voltage can push more power across a thinner wire with less losses. More amps creates more heat and resistance on the wire, which causes voltage drops across the distance of the wire. If you were to do 10 panels in parallel you would be pushing 50 amps and you'd need thicker wire to do this and you would see more losses as heat within the wire. 20v * 50 amps = 1,000 watts (with some of those watts more likely to be lost as heat). If you were to do 10 panels in series, it's be just the 5amps. And that 200v would push the power through quite easily even on fairly thin wire. 200v & 5amps = 1,000 watts. The main reasons you'd want to parallel: 1) In a 4 panel example where two panels are positioned above the other two panels and where a tree or structure casts a shadow over the bottom two panels that can't be helped, it'd be best for them to be parallel connected to each other as the top two and the bottom two. This allows the two top panels that aren't getting a shadow to perform optimally and not be dragged down because of the shadow on the bottom two panels. If the 4 panels were arranged with two on top and two on bottom but they were all 4 wired in series, then that shadow hitting only the bottom two panels would actually drag all 4 panel's performance down. 2) You would use parallel if your equipment (charge controller) was rated for a max voltage of say 100v and 10 amps (1,000 watts) where each panel you bought was 20v and 5 amps. 5 panels would reach the 100v limit so you'd have 100v and 5amps with 5 panels = 500 watts. But you could do a 5series 2parallel with 10 panels (two rows of 5) and have 100v and 10amps = 1,000 watts. So depending on your equipment and what panels you buy, it may be in your best interest to parallel your panels to maximize power going into the system while staying under the max voltage allowed in the system.

Yup, series is always better. Power losses in cables and in regulators (including MPPTs) are generally only a function of the current. P = I*I*R. The current squared, in fact. A parallel configuration doubles the current and halves the voltage (P = I * V so the power output is the same), but cable and circuit losses will be 4x that of a series configuration. Higher voltages and lower currents are always better, as long as the equipment can handle it. There are a few other gotchas as well. Lets say you had two series strings with 4 panels in each (8 panels total). If you gang the two strings together in a solar combiner box, then any partial shading of one string will reduce the MPPT efficiency for BOTH strings. Because the MPPT will not be at the ideal power point for either string. It is always better to put each string on its own MPPT. Then if panels in one string are partially shaded, each MPPT will be able to optimize for its respective string perfectly. So, for example, if you take your four panels and put them in a 2s2p configuration with a combiner box (or just wired together for the test, since its only 2s2p), going into one MPPT, then a partially shaded panel will mess up both strings to some degree. But if you put them on separate MPPTs you will still get a full 3-panels worth of power production. Partial shading of one panel is a series string does not effect the other panels in the series string (due to the magic of the bypass diode in each panel), so the MPPT will operate properly. This is also important for larger, older systems where one or more panels might have failed and is in bypass without the owner realizing it. In both cases, the bypass diodes take care of the problem. But if there is only one MPPT the owner might not realize that a panel in one of the strings has failed! Partial shading of one or more panels in a parallel configuration, on the other-hand, causes the MPPT to shift away from the optimal point for the other panels. This effect is only very slight, though, since a partially shaded panel is almost like a hole in the wall... it might as well be disconnected. So here one might think that parallel is better, but the currents involved wind up being so high that it winds up actually being worse (as well as a big pain in the butt due to wire sizing, etc). Newer, modern high-voltage grid-tie inverters (the big ones, not the micro-inverters) have multiple MPPTs for this very reason, while older ones typically had only one MPPT. Per-panel micro-inverters seem all the rage today, but the actual benefits are limited to a few special cases. They especially tout 'partial shading' performance. But actually, a micro-inverter is not going to improve performance verses a high voltage string by more than maybe 1% at best due to strong shadow partial shading. Because, as you saw, even shading just 2-3 cells in a panel effectively removes that panel from the system regardless of the configuration. Micro-inverters can have better performance in diffuse shading environments, though, where many panels are getting different amounts of light. That is their main use-case. But they are also expensive and more maintenance-heavy as systems age verses a modern high-voltage string inverter with multiple MPPTs that is easily accessible in the garage or side of the house and can handle 60+ panels. -Matt

Exactly the info I've been searching for. I've been debating going all in series on 6 panels vs 2 strings of 3. It looks like it's more cost effective to go all in series. It will save on wiring, fuses and complexity. Shading will be an issue at times since it's on an RV. The effect of shading appears to be close to the same whether in series or parallel. Thanks.

Answering all the questions I had! Great vid - just did this on the weekend - my results are very similar. Thanks for the confirmation. As David said in the comments - I think that's the "multiplier".

Great video, I love learning stuff like this. Thankyou!

this video has helped in explaining the benefits of series panel connections. thank you all who have added meaningful comments. I am grateful

Thanks for the video. Great way to learn.

I really loved this experiment. Thank you.

Hey thank you for sharing this! I've been doing some solar experiments at home. I'm hoping to add another 400 watts of solar to my bus roof [I have 400watt presently] so for now I have 4 100 watt panels mounted remote in my yard while the bus in parked in the shade. I'm using 10 awg wire, which is good for 30 amps, as I was connecting this thinking of voltage drop cause of DC, maybe I'd try series. So your demonstration showed that would be best for my application for now. Big fun! As I build out the bus/rv project, I'd love to have a row of solar panels on the roof tilt. Some I'm dreaming up some ideas with linear actuators that would tilt them for me. God bless! Al from CT

Nice nice. That was a great video not enough of those at all. Great presentation 👏. Very practical simple set up and well illustrated. Thumbs up brother 👍🏾

Thank you I appreciate your time and effort. You really help me out keep the going.

Great real time and side by side test.. thanks

I have nothing to add but watched the video and wanted to drop a comment

The advantage of series is that they start producing earlier and later in the day because of the higher voltage. All my installations are strings of series at the maximum voltage for the controller in parallel.

You answered all my questions, thanks :)

Bro , very good real life testing

Great.me too was wondering which type is better

Good to know this! Thank you

Series will keep the voltage above the MPPT or PWM minimum voltage level and still charge near dawn and dusk. This difference amount is almost negligible over the whole day, but may allow using appliances sooner in AM or later in PM when off grid. The charge controller limits the # of series panels by OC voltage.

GREAT JOB!

Great job!

Love this content... Thanks man

This is a superb test but would also be nice is do what is sometimes done in medical or dietary research: crossover trial: so record your testing for this setup used and then switch the panels so the one that was serial run it in parallel and vice versa. By the way I'm no expert in solar: I don't own any. Further, the batteries may impact power charge (maybe). They may have to be swapped. It would take a lot of time but testing like this may be worth it if you learn something significant about your batteries and setup. I wondered by running a higher voltage and it's benefits. One guy I saw who is not a formally trained expert seems to think that running in serial allows your charge controller to use a wider range to run to the batteries, and that provides more energy efficiency. I don't know his justification for the statement though. I always like to know the source and review the research.

Really well done

This video help a lot Thank you

Great Video. Excellent experiment.

thats why for my camper trailer Ive ordered 3x 200w custom shingle panels and ill be getting 3x anti shading devices for them which boost the watts if one or part of a panel is shaded when in series.. they will be on my rooftop tent.. but I also have a 300w solar blanket thats 70.8v and I'll order another one thats 440w and 50v.. both on 20m of solar cable so even if its shaded on the rooftop tent or I want to park in a shaded spot I'll still be able to place the 2 blankets anywhere upto 20m away to get a total of 740w

Thanks for this video. I just got the renology 400w kit for an offgrid shed/observatory and was trying to make heads or tails of the differences. This seemed to be very real world testing. I think i'm going to go series just for the easier wiring of 4 panels on a shed roof. Thanks!

Thank you 😊

Good experiment

Great info

Good demo! I hooked up two very clean out of the box 100W panels in series yesterday...in bright sunlight...using a 40A MPPT controller. Panels were angled at 39 degree for our latitude in the Pacific NW. Temp was about 70 degrees. The Voc per panel is 24.8V and the Isc is 5.21A. I was getting good voltage at about 45-46V, but my amps was only hitting about 1.36A. I double and triple checked connections and made sure the panels were clean. Any ideas?

Great test thank you I have also been wondering which way is better I was surprised at the parallel panels when you shaded them and the series kept Up. Were the batteries at the same depth of discharge. And what would happen if you discharged them to 60%. And then charged.

I came here to clear up some confusion I had regarding whether to do series or parallel for a van I live in. I was thinking of parallel for my two 100 watt Renogy panels because of shade. However, after reading the comments I am more confused than ever!

For a small two panel (100w) lighting set up with two lithium 100amph batteries. Mppt controller and short run wiring, is series on both panels and battery’s best? Full sun no shading. Thanks!

Say 3 panels in parallel, and 1 panel is in the shade, would it (and thus all) need a diode for protection? (would the current want to run in the wrong direction?). Thanks for testing!

The best result I`v`e gotten with 4 panels is to put 2 panels in series and put them in parallel. Best of both worlds!!!

What was the amp difference of the 2? I would lean more towards the higher amp set up, I will be running 2 growatt 3000 s one with a series, and 1 the other with a parallel. I am leaning towards a high amp string, and a high watt string for winter months.

So I think from this test I may do both series and parallel. I have four 250w panels (30.7 Vmpp/8.15 A Impp). A charge controller rated for 30A/13-60v/1600w. Wouldn't splitting the four panels in two sets produce my best balance of power transmission for the controller?

I'm not sure if this is a known result or not, but you might try comparing bright sun, to partial to very cloudy, see if parallel or series is better. (You showed bright and partial sun.) Maybe use a light fabric or screen and cover all 4 panels. Good video, thanks.

you do a great job with testing guestion i have id i have solar batteries for storage but notice they dont keep up with fridge why

This was very helpful

hi great video. could you confirm if the panels had both bypass diodes and blocking diodes fitted ? I'm trying to work out if you have parallel panels like in your demo, what help the blocking diodes actually do ? eg with out blocking diodes...if one panel becomes shaded or damaged. then does the good panel end up dumping some of its energy into the bad or shaded panel ? and if so.. does a blocking diodes eliminate this ?

The low beam blocking was on the string diodes crossing I think.

Could you try using microinverters in your test? I researched the microinverters will definitely help with the shading issues.

Just subbed awesome video

gave you a like just for the running around

with some quick maths in a perfect set system and about 120 to 130v in the bigger chargers series that advantage is going almost double in cloudy . i m about to buy a second charger for another array and panels limits the 100v series after 95v!!! looked for such video for over a month now / no shades on the project spot . only clouds and some tiny bird poops to bother me..... i took my lesson and go for the 150v version for second array

Just the example I was looking for, thanks , but I'd like to ask a question of all the minds, I have 2 banks of different size panels, 5x200w and 3 x330w, putting them into series in 2 separate banks, can I run them to the same controller?? the controller is rated at 150/60, the 2 banks come in at 113v and 8.85 Amps for the 200w bank and the 330w bank come in at 52.68v at 18.79 Amps. or do I need to do 2 controllers? which I have. Is there any advantage in taking 1 x 200w panel off and adding a 330w and do them in a series & parallel setup and would they be ok going to the same controller?

Happy Utility independent’s day !

High voltage , less losses.

As I am not an expert (no university degree in electrical engineering) nor do I have many years of experience in this field, and the answers regarding parallel/series connection are controversial, I'll now ask you a very crisp question. Surely there should be an optimum recommendation for my application? My system landscape: 1. 12 volt system 2. camper van (Citroen Jumper) with pop-up roof - 2 panels on top (total watts 400) 3. location: always variable, partial shading possible (under trees), light conditions vary! 4. 2x monocrystalline 200W 30.8V semi-flexible solar panels (short-circuit current (ISC): 6.82A, open circuit voltage (VOC): 36V Module voltage (VMP): 30.8V Module voltage (VMP): 30.8V; The modules have the bypass diode installed in the junction box! 5. 2x Lifepo4 battery with 150Ah each (total 300 Ah) 6. MPPT charge controller - Victron 100/50 7. inverter: MultiPlus 12/2000/80-3 Now my specific question to the experts: Connect in parallel or in series or install a changeover switch (relay) where you can switch between parallel and series depending on the situation? Thank you very much Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Besides the length of the wiring, I am wondering if all of the panels were equally performing? Sometimes you can have a panel that under performs although it is same make and model.

Any solar questions?

most surprised the thin plank killed the production far more than the Broad cardboard... something about how the separate cells are wired ?

It would be interesting when its about the cutoff voltage of the controller. And even more with 3 panels.

So basically build rows of series til you get to the max volts and connect the rows in parallel until you reach max amps ?

Thanks, I just included a link to this video on my latest video. hope that's ok.

I have been wondering about series and parallel. Which is better? It looks like series is a little bit better. Thank you for this video.

Let see if you can help me in my project Or some one on this chat I buy 5KW 48V Solar Hybrid Inverter 120V/24OV Split Phase 100A MPPT Charge PV OUTPUT: Max. Power 5000W Max. Charge Current 100A PV INTPUT: Max. Power 5000W Max. Open Voltage 500V MPPT Input Voltage Range 120~450Vdc Max. Input Current 22A I have 12 solar panels of 310watts 44v each panel. This is enough to feed this inverter?? And how I connect this panels ? All in parallel or how many panels in serie and then in parallel ?? Please 🙏 really need help thanks

From my tests, my main benefit, in series you can use smaller gauge cable. Only gain is your wire price drops. Down side, not every component is geared to 24v

Id love to see a 4-6s vs a 4-6p with 10 & 20meter to the mppt. The parallel should get voltage drop pr panel while the series only get it from the first panel. So the more in series the bigger the advantage.

👍

Tells you what ? can't see the phone data .What good is this ?

Hi gut Video 🤗👍

I bought an RV with a solar system installed. The panels were put in-series and I was considering rewiring to parallel. But now after watching this, I'm thinking it won't be worth the effort. I have 3x 250W panels (Pmax 30.3V / 8.27A) to charge a 12V, 200 amp hour LifePo4 battery bank. Thoughts?

🙏🏼 #VOLTINU

Do you know if those panels had by pass diodes???

not for me a beginner. i don't know what hookup to use series or para?

If you use mppt always run in series. 6 years experience.

didnt the series have more Amps and thats what u want? Voltage was what u set up--24/48/etc

Most charge controllers want the solar panel voltage to be 1.5 to 2x the battery voltage. Much better to match that. For a valid test you would want to double battery voltage when in series. You are probably not getting enough sun to get the parallel version into the sweet spot. You can upgrade to 24v panels and get more power for less cost.

You say they're about neck and neck but the parallel setup was clearly giving 2 amps more than the series. How is that neck and neck?

I assume your panels must have bypass diodes that kick in, otherwise the series connection would not work? Would be interesting to see performance over an entire day. See how many watthrs you get from each

For my short distance, I'll take the parallel amps over the series volts.

I have tested my panels in every possible way to hook them up ; I tried 63 and 84 volts coming in ; the best performance was with six sets of two panels in series, the voltage is between 29 and 41, and it puts out 2 % more that way. I am using an Epic Solar 4215 BN charge controller, 40 amps. I have twelve 100 watts panels. The panels are from 25 to 40 feet away and the amps maxes out at 32 but stays in the mid 20's usually. I noticed one time today the volts were 26.7 and the amps were 26.6.

the parallel connection seems to always beat the series connection with the charging current

Did your hairstyle look like this after touching the string terminal connectors of panels in series of 6 x 60 cells? :) thanks for sharing !

series will always win, you cant charge a battery with a smaller voltage, even on with full sun it would have enough voltage to start charging, partially covering cells is not ideal with any solar, even if you have partial shade on parralel if the pannels were on a 12v (20volt) pannel, it would not charge any battery yntill its fully hit by full sunlight, series would start charging and woul already have voltage even cloudy/ if you need more hours of charging hours when the day has short full sunlight, series would still be the way to go, parial covering is not ideal no one will set their solar partially covered, if those cells wereh not 24 v it would have any charge when it was cloudy, the cell is alrady like a series of 2 12 already, the advantage of the other set is like having 4 x 12 cells in series, same just non direct light would always have a voltage to start charging

Parallel should win in 10 years. Less heat build up if you had like a 10 panel set up lower voltage yes but longer service life yes

Please clarify in the description that this comparison is only applicable to the more expensive option of MPPT controllers which are not the most common type of controller people use. Basic PWM controllers can not take advantage of the increased voltage of a series connection. Parallel connected panels will produce twice the power as series connected panels when using a PWM controller.

Your focusing on just watts what about the amps on the parallel panels Am sure the parallel would charge up the battery faster than the series cause the parallel puts out more amps

The more I watch solar videos, the more I learn I don’t know a thing, lol. I totally get the series vs parallel and how they are different, mostly understanding how batteries work. My confusion is as follows. If I understand correctly, more Amps is what charges faster? If you run parallel, the amps stay the same, series, amps go up, help me understand. My main thing I want to do is as follows. I have an rv with a Go power solar starter kit. 190 watts, 10 gauge wire to the charge controller that is 30 amps. Series or parallel to add 2 more x 200 watt panels? Or, can you wire in series, voltage goes up, amps stay the same, you can put more solar, but is it really any gain? Sorry, but that stuff is so confusing, just when I think I understand, I learn that I don’t totally, lol Many thanks in advance

After reading many reviews and watching a lot of videos, I chose this option for my first backup power station. kzfaq.infoUgkxHypYDKHAN93Lp2RQpfvU_ksc70wJ00pt I was between this and a larger option that could power a wider range of items, but the price/size/capacity blend seemed right for this unit. Hasn't gotten a ton of use yet, but the build quality is solid and it charges fine via the Rockpals solar panel I purchased to pair with it. One thing to note is that the screen is optimized for a top down viewing angle, which makes sense, but this means it washes out at other angles - especially low angles. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a better option for the display could be used to provide wider viewing angles.

ps , that was not a partial shading you completely blocked them 3x circuits going length ways anything blocking width ways will stop the electrons , but you can disable the Left or mid or Right and the diodes will do their job , personally i rather series because you get higher starting voltage for longer runtimes during sunrise / sunset

Compare amps not volts you should check the amps going into the battery

The parallel was giving more apms

im amazed that lumber killed the entire wattage... jeeesh

Forget the volts and watts look at the amps , much better on the parallel

Shading is confusing

I’m disappointed in you test. You don’t tell us the actual values of your your test. I can’t read your cell phone screen if that is where the values between the series and parallel array.

Ab testing huh. You must come from a software background.

You went to all that effort and then messed around with that stupid camera mount right slap bang in front of the 2 phones we're supposed to watch? Unbelievable

What happened to your hair? you get shocked?

Higher volts will yield hier watts.. but not amps . Higher Amps bv will get your battery fuller faster. Series is only good for to get higher voltage to meet your high voltage battery needs and thinner wire ... if you are pulling high amps other wise. Like if you have 4 panels in series then th ETF battery wont burn up because amps will merely be 5 amps. If you had those same panels in parallel then that's 20 Amps provided each panel puts out 5 amps . 20 Amps might get wires toasty . Also if your panels are far away then high voltage is a little better... provided theres too much 9f a voltage drop in parallel . If there is not enough drop to impact production and the wires can handle the current then go parallel

I would try using aluminum foil wrapped around cheap OSB board or something and hinge it on both sides and one at the top and bottom or just lay the one on the bottom on the ground and let the aluminum foil glare the sunlight towards the panels it should give 20 maybe 30% more power you never know I've seen other videos show that it can I'm going to try it I just got four 100 watt panels in I'm going to run them in parallel though I may try series but I'll have to get a different charge controller