I thought the same thing. Why is that word following me???!!!! LOL

Lmao

Legit

Most uncanny experience since lockdown lol

that's something a bit different... servo jitter is caused by interference on pwm (S+) Noise on +5Vdc is a different story, you can have smooth and stable 5Vdc and still jitter, although root cause of the problem is however mostly the same -> servo coil.

BanditFPV what is a ferrite ring? So i could find one. Thanks much

You could try something like the HF60T18X10X10 from Digi-key. There are so many materials and specification. The ones I used came from a local New Zealand hobby electronics supplier many years ago. They still list them but no data.

This is a good idea, every bit helps. Twisting the wires reduces their ability to pick up and radiate interference if the signals or currents carried are ballanced. The power supply current is ballanced between +ve and -ve. Capacitors help a lot and are much better with a toroidal core added, or you don't need such a large capacitor. When I was testing some small 12g metal gear digital servos I noticed current draw spiking to about 9 Amps, but for only very short pikes. Capacitors can easily suppress most of this and it doesn't bother most BEC/UBEC. These current spikes generate interference that can upset other equipment in the model such as reducing radio range.

+CA Hau The digital servo draws current from the power supply (the receiver and ESC or BEC) in very short but high current pulses. So the average current is low, but the peak current is high. These high current pulses upset the smooth supply voltage and cause interference that upsets the other servos. Especially servos that do not have good filtering already built in. The circular core adds inductance to the lead and filters out some of the interference. Some interference still gets through, but if it is small enough that it does not upset servos etc. it doesn't matter. Better filters are possible and advisable on larger, expensive or more dangerous models. But a filter core is small, cheap, simple to fit, and usually works well enough. I always add a extra filter capacitor to the 5V power directly at the receiver for some extra safety margin.

+PMB-NZ thank you for the informative and prompt reply! Am i right to say that if i am only using a single unit of servo motor, the jitter can be solved just by either connecting a capacitor between 5v and ground or resorting to ur method?

+CA Hau I suggest both, the capacitor and the inductor core. You could try the capacitor first and add the inductor core if still a problem. Keep the capacitor lead as short as possible.

+PMB-NZ Where did you get the capacitor and do you know the spec? Not clear on how you have the capacitor on the lead.. is it just connected to the positive and also to the negative (ground)?

+theskyisthelimit I just use 2200uF or 3300uF electrolytic capacitors rated at 6.3V, because I have a lot of them. They were originally for repairing computer mother-boards. +ve and -ve capacitor leads just connect to +5V and gnd (red and black) at the receiver. Keep the capacitor leads as short as possible.

Great answer sir! And what exactly configuration of this capacitor can I use for this video setup?

I forgot to say that the advantage of digital servos (speed and torque) can still be used but you should chose all digital servos in that case, or use your solution if weight and space isn't an issue)

true, if they dont break on you before you get to fly lol, ive had bad luck with the little suckers lately the two 2 top gears seem to always break, also beware of the replacement gears for the HXT900 i ordered 10 sets and the 2nd gear down its tall gear is incorrect and will not mesh with the output gear, at least the sets i bought from HK , ended up having to send them all back. wish they would fix this!

That's not good for business as HK relies on being able to provide low cost batteries and servos to sell their products. I guess I should have said if you get a good one from a good batch... And I just got the popular 800mm Reaktor 3D plane that when you put a yardstick down the side of the fuselage the tail is almost one and quarter inches off to the side and it looks more like a banana than a plane's fuselage, and the wing looks like it has two different airfoils with one side visually thicker than the other side that has a sharp leading edge like on a fast flying pattern plane. To say this would be the worst flying 3D plane is an understatement and now I'm kicking myself in the head for not getting the Twisted Hobby's Crack Laser instead due to shipping costs and seeing I did not get the only banana being sold as a 3D airplane making sending back for a new one a risk. First negative issue with a HK product so hoping I get a straight one after sending it back. My Techone Tempo measures right on and expected the same from it's little brother. I'll send it back and with the added shipping costs that's higher than most companies I didn't save a penny and ordered a lot to go with it. Could be my last plane order from HK as too much "savings" is going into shipping costs. I suspect the people making this stuff are getting angry as anyone with no experience could have done a better job. If the wing was OK I'd just unglue the hot glue and straighten the fuse but nothing can be done to fix the wing within reason. ERRR! As for the HXT servos despite the usually good reports of dependability and fairly good performance I only use Futaba or equal quality servos. I have never had a servo fail except one and that was not the servos fault I purchased used with a dry bearing that rusted out after a year. But seems even the best amazing new servos coming out made by the new companies popping up fail once and a while and Futaba has backed down keeping up making better servos due to low profit margins showing the danger of buying "cheap". Just didn't try using a top quality digital servo that centers and holds it position under load well with no gear slop as it's hard to go back and be happy with your plane. This hobby is addicting and good servos are just one of many drugs used to keep you hooked;-)

John F Hendry Update HK seems to be matching Horizon Hobby in customer service. See what happens. Need to seed in the pictures and cell phone was no good enough and my real camera's batteries kicked the bucket and took a while to find the power cable.

Jeremy Vest I don't think these small servos are as good as the original HXT900s from when I first bought them years ago. Just the gears don't seem as well made. I've still got quite a few operating. I've been going off HK a bit in recent times for more technical bits. I've bought a few of their Multiwii flight controllers, most of which are modified copies of other boards. As copies they are not as good and lack basic information. HK are still great for most other parts.

Not as effective.

Nope. (no pun intended)

@@Antonluisre lol, no pun found

Try flying a model that does its own unrequested unputs on other flight surfaces.....Do you see the problem now? lol

ferrite core ring

Did you find out where to get these parts? I was wondering too

a high magnetic permeability material

I am not sure exactly. The cores are sold for this purpose, lower frequency rf suppression. RC hobby suppliers and mail-order electronics sell them. Interesting idea. I wonder how effective a nut would be. I expect it would have some effect, but would be heavier for the same size.

Yes, more is better.

read my above comment ,low current or noise is probably the cause of ur problem

Hello. Sorry, took me a while to see this. What type of 9V battery? The small ones won't supply much current, and the voltage will droop. Servos often draw high peak currents for very short times. You need an oscilloscope to see it. The 7806 regulator is not the best in this application. I should have the input voltage always at least 3V higher than the output voltage. 78xx regulators can easily oscillate at high frequencies if not decoupled correctly (capacitors on input and output. A LDO (low drop-out) regulator would be better. But manu of these draw a high quiescent current (current draw with no load). Good luck.

It's a ferrite core.

I have had jitter issues from name brand servos too. I agree, don't risk expensive planes with cheap electronics.

yea that is the downside of this solution. any other suggestion?

vandamn jaunclode hey have you figured it out? I’ve got emax servos and they go nuts when I disarm my motor.