As @hunterisu999 stated correctly in his comment, I accidently used the term "esteps" for "steps", where the term "esteps" is really just used for extruder motor steps and not for the other axises.

There are several videos on correctly setting the extruder steps but I have never seen anyone address the separate axis' steps, which is something that I have done with both my printers. Good job.

Exellent video. I had problems with part accuracy and calibrated my printer now the issue is gone. :)

Thank you so much for this! Your the best! I nominated you for the 3d printing awards this year for influencer of the year!

Dude! Great explanation, solved my problem right away I used to print twice my pieces and use a formula to scale to the ritght measure, not anymore thanks so much

Just wanted to say thanks for this info and the spreadsheet. This immensely helped. the M92 XYZ stuff made my cubes within +-0.01, Just have to tune the flow and I'm looking good. Thank you!

Isn't the steps for X,Y & Z functions of the physical properties of the motors i.e. Steps/rotation, pulley size, etc?

After I try a 100 calibrating cubes, i was very frustrate with my 3 D printer. I saw your Video, download the sheet. Make 2 Probes.....and Super i get it!!!!!! A Thousand, a thousand and a thousand thanks!!!!!!

Awesome thanks. Just got my anet a8 used and have been printing upgrades for it and fixing what the previous owner did to it.

Thank you for the time and effort you put into this! I have been using an Ender 5 Plus for years now and decided to upgrade to the silent board. I never had to calibrate anything as I was happy with the results from the factory however I decided to calibrate everything to the new board and this guide along with your excel sheet was extremely helpful! Thanks again!!

Thank you excellent video. The excel spreadsheet really helped make it easy.

Hi, great video, if I want to calibrate with a 100 mm tower (xyz) for a more accurate callibration to I need to multiply cell B8 by 100 instead of 20?

Nice thank you for your video. I setup my printer accordingly and get the 20 mm on all sides.

Hello mate, thanks for the video. I downloaded octoprint to windows 10 which was a right nightmare but got it working eventually. Then, I followed your steps and the printer tried to run itself off the belt, kept printing long diagonal lines and messed up everything on the printer. Luckily I could reset the eeprom chip and now it is back to it's normal self. I have a biquB1. Surely this should be possible to use on every printer?

Great Video!! Thanks for the upload!!

This is masterpiece.. :).. thanks dear for the clear demonstration and working file.

You answered all my questions!!! Thank You!!!!

Hallo and thank you for the Video. I wondered: Does this calibration stay accurate if I change the location of the printer? For example, for it to have access to the computer I have to place it on the table next to me, which is not perfectly even. If I mount the printer back on its usual location, does the calibration stay accurate?

Love your 3d printer channel.

Great video and thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have a doubt, when I send, in the terminal, M503, the Anet A8 answer me "Recv: epr: ..." instead "Recv: echo: ..." and the parameters are shown different as you. Is it possible that I have a different configuration of the Octoprint? or perhaps do I have sending an order to a different part of the memory of the Anet? Thanks and kind regards. Lorenzo.

Loved the video, but, your link for the .xlsx estep calculator is not working? please advise when fixed. thanks

I put in the new esteps with Pronterface, but 503 returns the old value. My printer board seems to be locked. Does that make any sense? Thank you for any help.

Thanks so much for this! So simple!

This video is completely overlooked and does not have enough likes! Thank you so much for this extremely helpful content.

Thanks, this helped me get my printer dialed in.

Other videos I have seen say the faces the caliper are touching are the axis being measured, like you did for the Z axis. Your video says what is on the face you are looking at is the value measured. Is the CHEP cube different than other calibration cubes?

Excellent! Thank you, just what I needed!

You. Are. FABULOUS!!! Thank you so much!!

Thank you for your instructions.I have 3 ender 3 v2 . I use your calibration cube instructions. 2 of them worked perfect . The last one no luck . I can't get a constant measurement. I suspect the motherboard is defective. I adjust the vref voltage for all the motors. Same problem. I give up ... I wait for new motherboard upgrade from 4.2.2 to 4.2.7

fantastic guide, thank you for the excell!

nice video you explain so good. Medal of Honor for you. Appreciate your Excel. Greatings

AWESOME video! I have printed that cube on each of my printers but never saw how to fix them, till today. Thanks!! I have calibrated my extruder, but am very much looking forward to how you do it now.

Invaluable info! Cheers!

hi. great job, thanks. how can i do this without octo?

6:48 I'd love to see a video from you on how to set up Octoprint for the Anet A8!

any way to calculate mm per step instead? Thanks man

Are these gcodes for any printer? I have a anycubic kobra go but don’t want to do something that’s going to mess it up.

Love your videos. Keep it up. God bless you.

Well explained, thank you

Question: can you read my mind? I just got a digital measure device (forgot the name for a bit) and my 3d printer is off by 0,07mm.

Link to spreadsheet is giving me an error that location doesnt exist?

Great video! I've read online a few different arguments about how you shouldn't calibrate the steps for the x y and z as they are already calculated based on the physical components of the printer ie belt pulley size, the specific stepper motors involved ect.. I think right now the popular idea is that these inaccuracies should be fixed in your slicer with horizontal expanse.. however this doesn't make sense to me when I move my x y or z 100mm whatever axis I decide to move should move exactly 100 mm.. and on my ender 3 pro it doesn't.. sure it's close but it's not perfect.. while I've always considered calibrating the e-steps for these axes I've never actually done it as I've never heard of anyone else doing it.. but I'm all now lol

Hi everyone, i'm using Prusa mk3s and PronterFace, it's connect fine, and echo back the value for M92, but when i'm write new value for X and Y, it's stuck at Sending M92 X100.. can someone help me?

great spreadsheet thx

I understand that steps/mm are factory set and normally they don't need to be adjusted, I found this relevant as I've swapped my idler pulleys to 20 tooth pulleys from the standard "Top hat" bearings fitted face to face. The bearings are 1.5mm bigger on the diameter and thus with the new pulleys the print size is reduced in size both in X and Y. So thank you for a great video which I found very informative.

ANY PLANS FOR A Delta CALIBRATION TUTORIAL?

Hi. In my experience there always is a "elephant foot". So if you put the caliper over the whole height, you are measuring the elephant foot too, which is misleading. You should start measuring only above ~5mm height - don't you agree?

i can't type my values into the little box... what am i missing?

What slicer did you use to on the g.code that is on thingiverse? it came out perfect!!!

This is the first video I've found to explain how to make the changes. The spreadsheet is an added bonus!! Thank you

ALL THIS TIME and I never knew there were "steps" along with "esteps". I thought that only esteps could be adjusted. Hopefully this fixes the issues I'm having with printed holes not being the right dimensions for magnets and other such items.

Thank you very much I am grateful to you

wow, thank you. You explained that so well. I was looking for a video just like this, and the spread sheet was icing on the cake. Thank you.

Would you have to take shrinkage into consideration? Calibrated for pla. How about for other materials?

Thank you very helpful

Vielen Dank, Daniel! Ausgeseichnet Video. Mit Freundlichen Grueseen von Romeo, Michigan, USA

Hi Crosslinnk, thank you for this video, i have come into a problem. I have a Anycubic Vyper that I have never had adhesion issues with, I created the initial cube dropping my bed temp to 50c instead of the usual 60c I use with PLA +, the cube printed well and the measure dimensions were x 20.14 y 20.10 z20.06, I made the changes suggested by the spread sheet and reprinted the cube, This time 4 times in a row the cube lifted from the bed at about the 25% mark. Do you know what would have caused this?

hi man, could you make a video about how to fix the Bltouch homing problem? I have marlin 2.0.x and my Z homing doesn't stop when the sensor detects the hotbed and it keeps going. I know that there is a fix for marlin 1.1 but nothing about marlin 2. Thank you

But how do you get that number

You saved my life. My brand new ender pro 3 was printing everything small, my first 20mm cube was 15mm. I’ll be calibrating my extrusion next. Thank you!

Thanks gute Arbeit Bruder

great share, thanks.

Would I be correct in assuming that the formula you used, only works for a 20x20x20 cube. I actually printed quite a few cubes and was able to get very close to the actual settings. However I tried to use the same sheet to try and calibrate a 100x100x100 print in order to try and get closer still, but all the values I received, were nowhere close to what they should be. As an example, the current e step for the X-axis is 100.0 the actual measured dimension was 99.57, but the spreadsheet is indicating that the new e-step should be 20.09. What is going on here???? Thank you for the time you will take to address my concerns.

Hello everyone! can anyone help me about how i can update the values of X, Y and Z axis's dimensions for dimensionally accurate prints, I have Kobra 2 Neo 3D printer. Please help!!!!!

LIFE SAVING VIDEO!!!1

Why don’t they just have internal X Y Z offset values like a cnc mill or lathe??????

Thanks a lot ... this Video is spot on. Is it ok to have manual mesh bedlevel turned on?

Stop reading my mind of the information that I am in need of at the time :-) 👍👍

Regarding your advice at 3:20-- How would I control how far I squeeze down the filament?

Daniel, great video thanks. I've got as far as trying to find what my current values are but when i put the m503 code into the console i just get an error message. I have a ender 3 v2 linked to a Creality Sonic Pad. Any ideas?

Great video this did solve my issue since i was experiencing this. However, the part that was printed on my build plate has now been printed towards the bottom right instead of the center of the origin. When I changed my steps the values given were X106.67 Y103.23 Z634.92. The original steps were X80 Y80 Z400. The print is perfect in dimensions but I want the print to be printing in the center of my build plate instead of the bottom right because I think the increased values caused this shift in direction. Do you know a fix to this? Again, thank you for the guide as this saved me tons of time and frustration!

One of the things that confuses me. About calipers. Which part you use? The tip and the main part (where you show measuring) are actually different. (I know slightly different topic … but yours are similar to mine. There’s a small step at the end part

Thank you, I love you

After calibration, i have elephant foot. Can u tell me why? i'm using cura and i set initial horizontal expansion to -0.15

super!! thanks

How do you correct if different sized objects are off by differing percentages?

how much infill to use in the cube when printing it

Would you recommend xyz steps first or esteps first?

ive come to a big problem lately i need to calibrate e step but with a bigger model since its allway off in a bigger print so i need a new sheet but for a 100mm print its my need right now :S

Thanks!

the calibration sheet is borked

HELLO EVERY TIME I TRY THIS I NEED TO RE LEVEL MY BED AND MY PRINTS COME OUT WORSE WOULD YOU HAPPEN TO KNOW WHY ??? :/

Stay have a problem with 90 digree ptinting i can't geat a sharp 90 digree if i want to print a cubic and i don't know how to fix the X Y acces!

you're the best

One thing I NEVER hear anyone talking about when calibrating a 3D printer is something I fell into completely by accident, and that is temperature. I would print things off that fit well right away but the next day they didn't fit. Couldn't figure it out and I kept running test cubes which all came out correct. Then I measured one I had done the day before but one that was now completely cooled down to room temp and it was measurably smaller than the freshly printed, and still warm, ones. Depending on the amount of infill or number of walls I would see variations from between 0.1 and 0.4mm in each axis. No amount of recalibration would ever get the parts to an accurate dimension...until I let them cool to ambient and then remeasured. I also found that using my calipers at ambient temperature made a difference as well....as much as an additional 0.1mm with just threw off the cube measurements even more.

Does this work for Delta Printers?

What about the effect of elephants foot? Wouldn’t that bias some of the measurements?

spool holder link please. at 1:27.

Great video, thanks! I also recently calibrated my steps (XZY and E), but using a different approach (measuring the axis movement directly on the sled with a caliper, which I think is more accurate). But now here's my question: how does the change in the step values affect the magic numbers for a 3d printer, or does it at all? I've been looking for an answer to this in many videos and texts but haven't found one yet. Would be awesome if you could help out with that!

I tend to use a 100x100mm square for x and y. The larger the object the more accurate your settings will be. Once x and y are good i would only do z if I thought it was seriously out.

I've finally had it become an issue I'm making larger mechanical parts and everything is slightly elliptical and doesn't perfectly line up with other parts

Ok so this kind of calibration based on printed parts like a cube might work for small prints but what happens after you calibrate this way and then setup a print with 2 cubes with 60mm of empty space between them? Does the calibration still hold accuracy? I calibrate my printer with a digital indicator like a machinist would and so far I trust that more than any other method.

You should ALWAYS start with extruder calibration first!

where's the spreadsheet?

If you can't quite get it dialed in, a calibration trick is to halve the error correction amount. Example if the calculation says remove 1%, then remove 0.5%. Or here if it says change you X from 80.10 to 80.70, then go with 80.40 (M92 X80.40)

Ohhh noooo, this information for the X, Y and Z calibration is soo wrong and will cause issue on larger prints. The pulleys are toothed, therefore we will ALWAYS get the same distance of travel per rotation. The number of steps per rotation of the stepper motor is always the same. based on this the X and Y axis can be calculated from design and will be accurate for all sizes of prints. The same applies for the Z-Axis screw and again it should be calculated from design and will be accurate. An over dimension of a test part is always from over extrusion of the extruder. If you change something on your printer like the size of the pulleys, and being a toothed pulley, it's diameter and circumference is easy to calculate, that's when the steps per mm for that axis needs to be changed. My first printer I ever owned was a kit pre calibrated at the factory using this method and then locked and caused me no end of trouble printing ovals instead of circles and having bigger errors at larger sized prints. Most (not all) standard printers like the CR10, the Anet A9 and the Wanhoa duplicator series printers all use the same size pully, based on that the X and Y axis steps per mm is 80 For the CR10 and Wanhoa, the Z is 400. The Extruder will vary a bit from machine to machine. Over extrusion can also cause holes to be filled in more than they should be but in some cases, you may need to adjust the horizontal expansion to get dimensionally accurate holes, this is not supported in S3D but is in Cura. To prove the point, print out your 20x20x20 test cube, then scale it up in the X and Y axis to 150 x 150 x 20 and compare your results. If your method was correct, then that should both be accurate, but I'm gonna bet the 150 x150 x20 will be under sized on the X and Y and not even the same amount of under size. Ray

It seems, every time I measure, the caliper gives me different measurements for each side x_x

I think 20x20mm is too small for calibration, I would use at least 100x100mm.

Every thing worked great till M500. Ender 3 v2, No eProm to save to. Now what??

Daniel, sorry but I must disagree with your terminology: E-steps are strictly related to extruder steps ( short for Extruder steps per mm) and the rest axis are simply Steps per mm. As for changing steps per mm for movement axis, there is more in it. One example: how you expect your printer to do 98.03 steps? Calibrating movement of axis has meaning only if you use parts from an unknown source or printed pulleys. for example for Ender 3 Pro Creality uses cast pulley and genuine Gates GT2 belt that with every pulley teeth belt is "realigned" thus you should never change default steps per mm.