Conall Stapleton

Awesome, glad it was helpful!

That's cool that you're working on your grandpa's jointer. I love machines with history!

John Evans that's great to hear John, thanks for taking the time to write that up. I really enjoy knowing that this is helping people out!

You're welcome, glad it helped. All the best!

Shim, not shin. Ouch.

I'm glad it helped you out Robert!

Nice tip! I'd be wary of pushing down against the knife blade but done gently it'd be fine.

Did you get it sorted?

je vous en prie!

I have a very similar Rockwell.

Thanks, glad to hear it helped you out!

Glad to hear it. Hope it helps you dial your machine in!

Glad it helped, cheers back to you from Canada!

I've never used a machine with springs but I imagine the measuring technique here would work just the same. Good luck with your setup!

@@mikeschmitz8355 As you say, the measuring will be exactly the same, just setting the blades will be different. I don't know how strong the springs are, I will find out when the blades arrive in the post I guess.

Pete McNichols - that's awesome! Glad it helped.

Cheers Joe, thanks for leaving a note. I love seeing that it's helping people!

Good luck, hope it goes smoothly for you.

Let me know how it works out for you!

Joshua Lyon let me know if you have questions. good luck!

I will, thx, my jointer is real bare bones and only minimal adj for the feed side and the out side. I will have to get cute with the tables being co-planed bc all there is on either side is a 45deg raise and lower..whats your e-mail? great job!

you can reach me right here, I usually respond fairly quickly (was away for the last week). There were no adustments for making the tables coplanar on mine either. I had to shim the dovetail ways with strips I cut from an aluminum pop can (that's a soda can if you're American). You can see a little bit of what I did here: imgur.com/a/rgwSp

thx!

Glad you liked it! What did you use for the straightedge? It was suggested elsewhere that a normal ruler fixed to a nice square stick would probably work, but I've never tried it.

As I have just finished restoring it I have not ever adjusted the blades before. I think I have a 2mm thick piece of aluminium in the workshop that I will mark the millimeters on.

that should work well. Good luck!

@@mikeschmitz8355 Hi Mike, this popped up in my feed after all these years. To answer your question accurately I have a stainless steel metric rule that is able to stand on its edge. Works like a charm.

Very welcome, glad you liked it.

That's great, enjoy your new jointer!

thanks Marty. happy jointing!

Awesome, enjoy your new (old) machine!

3/16ths? Wow that's **really** uneven. Yeah I bet it works better now!

My pleasure. thanks for leaving a comment, I always enjoy getting feedback.

My pleasure. thanks for leaving a comment, I always enjoy getting feedback.

Excellent, glad to hear it helped you out!

Glad you found it helpful!

Agreed. Instead of rushing to do this in ten minutes, spend twenty and get it perfect, save yourself an hour of frustration later.

You're very welcome. Glad you found it helpful.

Ha, hi there!

The straight edge wide enough to stand upright is the real key. Good luck!

This video is great. Going to try this method today. In the past for other applications, I've used a spring clamp to clamp a small block of wood to a steel ruler to keep the ruler standing up on its edge.

Thomas Lowry that's a good idea. You need the ruler to be heavy too, so maybe clamp a strip of wood all along it that the knives can bite into?

Yeah getting a feel for how hard to tap or pry is definitely a part of this, and will really affect how long it takes. Glad you got there in the end!

Thank you, I hope it serves you well!

Any luck with it?

I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me

@Winston Jamir Instablaster =)

@Bobby Walter i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.

@Bobby Walter It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thanks so much, you saved my ass !

Hey thanks for the feedback, I love knowing that it's helping people out!

@@mikeschmitz8355 My jointer is running great now. Thanks again!!

J K thanks! Perhaps in retirement. I don't think woodworking instruction pays as well as software!

Yes you have to check after making adjustments. I showed that and discussed how to loosen the jib screws properly in the video.

Good luck. Hit me up if you have questions. Happy to help.

Thanks! I might just do that.

jaydege81 I'm told you can just tape a stick of wood to a ruler and it works fine. Mine is a Lee valley stop rule with the stop removed.

Not sure honestly. I play with my outfeed height until boards go through perfectly. I'd shoot for a tiny bit above outfeed level. Like a tiny tiny bit.

I was telling Tom to disassemble the tables and mechanisms and then to use a mallet to get them moving. Your tables are stuck too? If so do not force the adjustment wheels as Tom did. Instead you take apart the adjusters. Take the wheel off its axle by loosening the set screw. From there you can thread the axle out of the base.

Yup, they're pretty basic machines that didn't change for a long time. Effectually they figured out that the fence design wasn't ideal and improved that.

It's called a link belt, you can get them everywhere, including Amazon. Alternatively, you should be able to move the motor up or down in the cabinet to make other belts work.

Honestly I don't think I'd be able to cope with a jointer that couldn't adjust the outfeed. Setting the knives to exactly the right height would be exceptionally difficult, I imagine. Maybe sell that jointer and upgrade?

Thanks for the answer. The solution I'm trying now is to use your method, only with less travel of the straight edge (maybe 2-3mm). Hoping that will do the trick!

@@michael.knight did it work? I also dont have outfeed table adjustsble.

@@yammakashi Yes, it worked. It's a bit tricky, but it works.

I have an Imgur album that mentions shimming here: restored Rockwell 37-220 6" jointer imgur.com/a/rgwSp

+Benjamin Parker Good luck, hope it's useful on your machine. Watch out for stripped gib screws on the old machines. It's extremely common and a real PITA.

Hey Mike, Thanks for the video. I have never owned a jointer until now. I had no idea that the jib screws loosened clockwise (I'm guessing that is what you were referring to). If I didn't watch your video my jointer gib nuts/threads would end up striped just like the ones that you mentioned ;-} I just bought a Astro International" 6" that looks very similar to yours. Same fence style, 2 table adjustment wheels at front. I did a test cut on the top face of a 3-1/4" piece of Oak hardwood flooring yesterday and it was rough. bouncing a lot, terrible finish. I will check out the knives for uniformity using your method. When I did a cut on the side, the cut was actually nice other than a 1-1/2" long by 1/8" deep snipe at the end of the board (Funny because the table was high not low?) Another problem is the out-feed table. it's pretty much seized up, i.e. if I apply any more pressure trying to turn the wheel I'm worried that I break something. I am going to try to spray some wd-40 and use a small wire brush to attempt to clean of the treads. Here's hopin'. This is especially important since the co-plane is out by about 1/8" (I'm getting gauges this week to test more accurately). Basically the table is sagging at both ends. So from what I gather, and which makes sense I should adjust the out-feed to get the table the same height and than shim it? Again thanks for the video, and if you or anyone has any pointers for new/old guy. I'm all ears

Hi Tom, yeah I'd strongly recommend full dis-assembly to clean out the dovetail ways that the tables ride on. There will probably be some set screws that you remove to get them apart. If the outfeed is seized, don't use the screw adjust to break it loose. Remove everything and then whack it with a mallet until it starts to move, probably using ample penetrating lube of some kind. Then you have it right: shim the outfeed to get coplanar. you adjust that one way less, so the shims will stay put. Good luck!

Hey Mike, So... more troubles. I sprayed the outfeed table adjustment wheel threads, but it was still extremely stiff? So I continued to turn it by hand slowly but with a great deal of pressure, I figured something (gunk) had to give. It sure dd ---- ***crack**** a piece of the mechanism that the threaded adjustment rod travels through snapped off. Can I buy a new (old) part for this? I can send photos if anyone wants/needs? This just keeps getting better and better (I brought it on myself though)

Sorry but that's why I suggested disassembly and a mallet. The mechanism isn't going to be strong enough for that purpose. I have no idea about replacement parts I'm afraid. try an expert's site like lumberjocks. Good luck!

You'll likely need to do some deeper diagnostic than what we can do here. I recommend owwm.org/

Not a dumb question at all! I got it from Lee Valley. It's called a Stop Rule (I took the stop off to do this). Others have pointed out that a stick of hardwood with a few lines cut into it with a marking knife will work just as well, or a normal rules taped to a stick of hardwood so it stands up.

hi Ernesto, I don't have a video like that, but the trick is to loosen the set-screws that you'll find near the sliding dovetail ways of the machine on both sides, and to fully disassemble the raise/lower mechanisms. I took the tables off by lifting them UP, not by sliding them down. Good luck! Edit: the 4th picture in this album clearly shows the allen-key set screws I'm talking about: imgur.com/a/rgwSp. There's 5 in the pic: 2 on the left, 3 on the right. In the 6th picture there's a closup of a shim I put in. You can see the little bar that "floats" in the dovetail way too. This is the bar that the set screws tension. Loosening the screws may cause that bar to fall out. Collect it and mark its orientation for reinstallation.

Mike. Thanks you for your response. I will give it a try. Thank you again.