Setting the points movie

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Volfandt

8 жыл бұрын

!949 Chevy 216, setting the points

Пікірлер: 51

@ericruiz2174 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info on the calibration. Very useful to me. You have become a mentor for me and my 54 chevy 3100 family proyect... Eric Ruiz Puerto Rico

@maximilianodelrio2642 2 жыл бұрын

Chevrolet 1947 lo mas Grande que inventaron Desde tiempos remotos Y el 57 tambien saludos Maximo de castellar

@mustanggarland24 4 жыл бұрын

Nice little video! Very nerve calming! Motor sounded beautiful thank you

@Volfandt 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Chris.

@BoxcarsGarage 6 жыл бұрын

I've spent the day pulling a 216 out if a 49 2 Dr. Fastback. At first I thought it was a good project for a newbie like me but now I feel I wasted my time....really no need for it. Car is beyond rotted, heck the a pillar is rotted out. Taking it to scrap next week. I tried to turn the motor but it's froze up. Shot oil into the cylinders.... didn't help. Probably takes mush more time that I gave it. I don't know.... probably wasted the day. Oh well, it was fun. Thanks for the video....they seem to be a little fussy. But you know this motor.... it's easy to see. Take it easy.

@Volfandt 5 жыл бұрын

Sorry for the late reply. Chalk it down for a good learning experience. Theres many god deals still lurking out there.

@kalibvandyke9881 6 жыл бұрын

Good morning Dave. I've been studying my new 216 and discovered it has a slight miss to it. I've bought Dwell/tach, timing light, bleed and test kit, and a vacuum gauge test. Vacuum is good but it has a slight drop to it. It stays steady at about a 18/19 then drops to maybe a 17/16.5 then back up. From online reads this is an indication of a few possible issues(I may be wrong). I pulled the plugs and all were coated with dry black carbon (running to lean or rich from online reads). Replaced plugs and set gap to 36. What would you recommend setting the gaps to? I seen one guy online say "40 no matter what the manual says". Old plugs seem to have been at 35/36. Started her up after the plug change and the miss seems to diminish some but not completely. I used the paper test at the exhaust. And the engine also shakes a bit if looking carefully. Let the engine run for about 30 minutes, while doing so, I checked RPM's and it was set quite high, around 1000/1100. Dropped it down to 650/700 and set timing right on BB. It was about 2/4 retarted beforehand. Stopped engine and attempted to start back up and it struggled to crank back up but did. Tested vacuum advance and it seems busted. Ordered a NOS one on eBay so I don't have to pull distributor (scared of the thought, lol). Today I will change points, condenser, cap, rotor beings I don't know when all this has been changed last. Starting fresh in a sense. I will also do a compression test (wet test also if need be, hopefully not) to get an idea of the overall health of the engine. She's still 6 volt so will do what needs to be done to check dwell also. Couple question on point set and compression test. For points do you find top dead center of number 1 cylinder to set points or bump test the engine until points are at its fully open position? As far as compression test, does the 216 engine gas supply need to be plugged off someplace? Cant seem to find these answers online and I'm not a fan of writing on forums as some guys can be some real jerks. Hope you don't mind helping. Once everything is changed I will make a video and post here so anyone can chime in with recommendations.

@Volfandt 6 жыл бұрын

Hello Kalib. For setting your points any high point on the distributor cam will do but if your going to pull the dist you might as well set the dist where it's fireing cyl #1 and cyl #1 is on compression stroke and the BB aligned on the pointer. Mark the dist body where the rotor button points to cyl #1, it'll make R&R'ing the distributor very easy. When you do your compression test, remove all the plugs so the engine turns over easy and clamp the carb throttle wide open. You want max air flow through the carb during the testing. Turn the engine over atleast 4-5 times to get a good reading per cyl. Don't worry about blocking off the fuel. It doesn't waste that much and with all the plugs removed it won't start. With new points set them to 0.022". The fact that your vacuum advance is bad can cause all sorts of problems, the engine runs and accelerates much smoother with a working advance. The entire distributor should turn when you accelerate from idle to a higher rpm. I usually set the plug gap on battery and point ignition systems to 0.035". FYI, anytime you replace and/or adjust the points you also effect timing so make sure you check and reset the timing after you're finished with the points. FYI #2, Alot of old timers would pull the distributor to change/adjust the points as it is much easier to do clamped in a vice than bending over a fender, I've done it both ways but these old trucks are pretty easy to access. Good luck

@kalibvandyke9881 6 жыл бұрын

Volfandt Thanks Dave. Even after reading to pull full throttle it slipped my mind to do so but even so compression was 125-130 on all cylinders. She starts up fine but has a slight miss, light black smoke and new plugs are dry jet black. Running very rich and I find it has burned a ton of gas. New rotor, New cap. Both were in rough shape but the new ones didn’t make a difference. Coil,condenser, plug wires and points had to be ordered. I set points at .018 but dwell still seemed low at 29-30. I’m hoping the new stuff makes a difference and it’s not carb related.

@chandiaz7694 3 жыл бұрын

Its manual choke. I'll check it out again. Question: Manual Throttle. I've has problem keeping the manual throttle in the accelerated condition. I suspect that the NEW accelerator pedal spring is too stiff thus causing this problem. The spring we recently installed is installed properly (from accelerator rod tab to crankcase flange. its 1952 216 ci Chevy truck engine.

@Volfandt 3 жыл бұрын

I had the same problem with my 216 engine. It could be the spring is too strong and/or the throttle cable assembly is an aftermarket/ What I did was squeeze the tube tighter against the cable where it threads through the dash. If you can get it just right it will hold the throttle open when you want but also allow it to slide it closed too. This is a common problem with the newer aftermarket parts. Good luck.

@chandiaz7694 3 жыл бұрын

@@Volfandt You are correct. The spring was too stiff. I installed the old spring and now it works wayyy better. Though a bit of circumferential movement of the knob assists.

@jmercado4 2 жыл бұрын

Hello I really enjoyed your video on points. I have a question on a problem I am having. I have a 1950 Chevy 4 door sedan that has been sitting for 47 years, my friend got the motor running and I fixed the brakes. After I got the insurance and license plate, I was ready to take it for a ride but as I pulling out, I heard a squeaking sound form the engine compartment. I checked and the distributor was shaking but the engine was still running as I held the distributor the shaking quit but as so as I let go it started again. Do I have a bad vacuum advance, or? the engines accelerate fine just the shaking of the distributor and vacuum arm moving back and forth. Jake.

@Volfandt 2 жыл бұрын

When you say shaking do you mean wobbling? I ask because it's not unusual for warn distributors to wobble and if it's not too bad the engine will run pretty well but it's a good indication that the distributor should be replaced. If it is shaking it could be a loose vacuum advance or it's clamp is loose. Double check to make sure everything is tight. Thanks for watching.

@jmercado4 2 жыл бұрын

@@Volfandt thank you for this I will get on it. jake.

@rodeddy54truck53 4 жыл бұрын

I am looking for the tool that removes the 5/16 nut and the flat head screw on the side of the distributor that holds the points hot connection and condenser on 1954 chevy 235 6 cylinder engine

@Volfandt 4 жыл бұрын

Sorry for the late reply. I haven't had to remove the bakelite block on either dist (216 or 235) but I do believe I know the tool of which you ask about and I don't know where one can be found. Theres a couple web sites you could ask, www.stoveolt.com and 67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=13 Good luck

@davebwelch 4 жыл бұрын

I noticed that you didn't disconnect the vacuum advance before setting the timing to the BB (2 deg advance). Is that correct? I'd like to check my timing also, and wanted to be sure I'd be doing it correctly. (on a 1951 3100 w/ stock 216). Thanks, Dave.

@Volfandt 4 жыл бұрын

If your engine RPM is no higher than 500 there shouldn't be any vacuum being produced at the Rochestor B carb's vacuum advance port. I had verified this on my 216 engine with a vacuum gauge but didn't show it. So I was safe to adjust the timing without disconnecting the vacuum advance. That said, the safe bet is to always disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line when setting timing. Good luck with your maintenance David.

@davebwelch 4 жыл бұрын

@@Volfandt Okay great! Sounds like the carb has ported vacuum source instead of a manifold source. If so it simplifies things as you wouldn't need to disconnect the vacuum advance, Thanks Dave,

@Volfandt 4 жыл бұрын

@@davebwelch Correct. Good luck with your project.

@OGSHAKER2020 2 жыл бұрын

Is this the same for a 235 as far as the setting spec. For the gap. Im having a hella if a time trying to start this sucker i did get her started but 8 have to pump the hell out of the gas pedal & keepy foot on it to keep it idling. .just trynna figure this out bud any thoughts greatly appreciated 🙏 sounds like your my old buddy.. & in harmony with these old cars.. i need more learning is all .. cuz 8 love these old trucks 51 3100

@Volfandt 2 жыл бұрын

Yes. Set your points to 0.022" if new, 0.018" if old, set your plug gap to 0.035" and static time your distributor so that the points "just" start to open with the rotor pointed directly at the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap. I always find it easier to do these settings with the #1 cyl @ TDC on it's compression stroke (it's about to fire). These old engines start easier with the timing retarded and when you static time your engine make sure the "BB" on the flywheel is directly aligned with the pointer in the timeing hole.If you must use a starting fluid I recommend to spray gas down the carb and not starting fluid. You may find the beginning of this Vid helpful: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j9WXq8udxM68qGg.html Good luck & let me know how it goes. Dave

@OGSHAKER2020 2 жыл бұрын

@@Volfandt hey bud its been awhile. Just surviving the covid job game at the moment.. but im ready to try get her on the road.. I've had her close to 20 years (goodness) . Last we spoke I believe you told me I should just start from. Scratch & pull the distributor out. CAN YOU GUIDE ME TO ONE OF YOUR VIDZ TO DO SO .. OR I CAN SEARCH ..(BUT THE MAIN THING . IS .. LIKE BEFORE YOU WERE GONNA KINDA GUIDE ME ON WHERE TO START & GUIDE ME THROUGH THE PROCESS. MUCH APPRECIATED.. its a whole nother summer now ...wow.. time flies.. thanks bud & God bless 🙏 hope ya remember me.👍

@Volfandt 2 жыл бұрын

@@OGSHAKER2020 Good to here from you and it's good to hear your beating the covid. Well, your timing is pretty good as I'm going to be pulling the distributor off of my old 216 engine for another reason so I'll record the procedure and post it. I expect to do it in the next day or so. I'll post a reply in this thread with a link. Or you can send me an email to: volfandt1@yahoo.com and I'll email you a link. So stay tuned my friend and we'll get it done.

@OGSHAKER2020 2 жыл бұрын

@@Volfandtim excited 😁 now can't wait .haaaaaaa haaaaaaa 🤝👍

@chandiaz7694 3 жыл бұрын

1952 216 ci Chevy truck engine. I've set the point gap to 0.018", plugs to 0.035", valve gap to .008" on intake and .013' on exhaust (the valve settings were WAY OFF.) Timing seems to be ok. Having problem starting it. Will not start unless I place the palm of my hand over the carburetor and "flap" the palm. Then it starts and has a rough idle. The carb is recently exchanged new fuel filter. Any ideas?

@Volfandt 3 жыл бұрын

Is your carb a manual or automatic choke? In either case it sounds like the choke either isn't working or not getting used to start a cold engine. Make sure the choke is working. Generally these old Stovebolt engines need choke for cold starting and in some cases partial choke to run correctly until the engine is warmed up to operating temp. Good luck

@chandiaz7694 3 жыл бұрын

@@Volfandt Correct again. I installed the carb heat valve spring and also found that the carb choke shaft lever was hanging up (catching slightly to the choke stop lever.) Corrected these two issues and now starting is easier.

@allthegearnoidea6752 5 жыл бұрын

Couldn’t quite work our where you pointed the timing light. Is the hole near the starter motor ? Regards Chris

@Volfandt 5 жыл бұрын

Chris, yes, the timing hole is right above the starter. Centered in the hole is a pointer. Depending on the engine model and year there will be a BB embedded into the flywheel. The BB is what you want to center on the pointer for stock timing. Sometimes you have to clean the crud off the BB inorder to see it. Good luck

@allthegearnoidea6752 5 жыл бұрын

Volfandt Thanks Dave, do they have any marking on the harmonic balancer/ front pulley etc. I’m having Rochester carb problems and over heating coils this week. Try to keep my stiff upper lip. Now drooping slightly since buying a truck. Regards Chris

@Volfandt 5 жыл бұрын

I did a video on a 235 rebuild which is basically similar to the 216, the timing hole is in the exact same location. At this link at the 20:38 mark is a clearer picture of me pointing a timing light into the timing hole. Unfortunately my camera work was pretty poor in some of these videos : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pMhmeM1mtJ2zn30.html

@Volfandt 5 жыл бұрын

@@allthegearnoidea6752 no timing markings on the front. If you bring #1 cylinder up on it's compression stroke (both valves loose) and the rotor button pointing at #1 plug, the BB should be close to visible in the hole. You may have to slowly rotate the engine in both directions to find it. Dab a little bit of white paint or white-out on it to make it easier to see. Tackle each problem one at a time. Sometimes correcting one fixes several problems.... Coils tend to run slightly hot but not so hot you can't touch it, if it's that hot it'll start leaking eventually, might need to replace it.

@allthegearnoidea6752 5 жыл бұрын

Volfandt Thanks Dave. Have to track down the reason for the hot coil. I’m running HEI via a pertronic igniter so no points etc. Maybe just a coil breaking down

@marioespinosa6280 7 жыл бұрын

has your trans ever got stuck in gear . i have car at friends he needed to move it , says its stuck in gear. i havent see it yet , any ideas . 1947 chevy stylemaster

@Volfandt 7 жыл бұрын

These old vehicles can get stuck in gear due to worn and/or rusty parts. You may have to crawl under and manually move the shift levers to free it up.

@marioespinosa6280 7 жыл бұрын

o.k thanks , i never seen a trans so small & with no universal joints on drive shaft . the drive shaft just stabs into the rear axel . i was thinking i had to drop trans to work on it , ill try your way first . thanks again for answering my question , ill let you know the outcome , ganna work on it this saturday.

@marioespinosa6280 7 жыл бұрын

it leaked out fluid, added fluid got it to change gears , thanks for help

@gumbymorena5503 3 жыл бұрын

Hi I was wondering if you can help me out? I have a problem with my truck 3100 with a 235 engine. I rebuild the engine and the transmission and carburetor but the truck dive 20 miles per hour why is that?? Thanks

@Volfandt 3 жыл бұрын

Sounds like you've got a problem with the throttle linkage. Take the air cleaner off and while you're looking down the carb, have someone floor the gas pedal and make sure the carbs throttle plate is opening fully. Also make sure your choke is fully open when it's warmed up. Good luck.

@scottschmittmusic 2 ай бұрын

How do you move the lobe to the high side?

@Volfandt 2 ай бұрын

If it's close, from the passanger side grab the fan belt and pull out to tension it then turn the fan clockwise. The tension on the belt will turn the crank which turns the cam which spins the distributor. YOu can also spin CCW if need be. If it's not close and you still have the stomp starter, use a long screw driver or crowbar and use it as a lever between the firewall and starter linkage to move the starter linkage forward which will depress the starter contact and spin the starter. You'll just want to bump it. They made these old Stovebolts easy to work on back in the day.

@scottschmittmusic 2 ай бұрын

@@Volfandt thanks.. I'll try the fan belt

@joepacheco4038 4 жыл бұрын

Way to much drama. Back then they gave you wiggle room on the specs, wasn't rocket science. Grew up with points and condenser ignition, no magic required . Just reverse removal procedure . Carbon up plugs to much idle time carburetors where not perfect metering devices. Timing changes had to be made for different altitudes . Just enjoy your antique and drive it.