Excellent series Tom. Thanks for taking the time to research and present the information in a format that is easily digested and available for us to review in the future as needed. Cheers, Gary

I really enjoyed this series of videos. I learned a lot about how you go about measuring accurately on diameters. The amount of math involved amazed me. Well done video. Thank you

Mr. Wizard. Magnificent series. That was awesome. Thanks for sharing your time and many talents. All the best. Chuck.

Great series of vids. They really helped with some things that I was wondering about for an upcoming project that I have.

Excellent as always Tom, thanks for another great series of videos.

Great video. Excellent ending. Thank you for helpful tips and info. Thank you for sharing.

Thanks for a wonderful series, I really appreciate the time & effort that you put into making these. Best Regards, Jon

Very nice tutorial! I was given a Jacobs 0- 1/8 chuck a few years ago which had a bad taper and was headed to the garbage can until I stepped in for the rescue. I chucked an 1/8" gauge pin in a collet and verified good runout, then chucked the little chuck on it to bore the taper. I had to shave some real estate off of the face of the male taper so it didn't bottom out, and walla! Still use it to this day. Great videos, I enjoy watching!

Nice job on the taper series, very practical and of great use to us home shop guys. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.

I can understand your frustration with this task as filming and all that it involves must actually slow the job down enormously. However many thanks for taking all that extra time to explain and show us all the issues along the way to completion. Real useful piece at the end about the internal taper as well. Thanks once again.

Tom, this was a great 4 part learning experience. Yesterday I started a similar repair trying too find a way to make the same fix on my drill press. Thanks for a great job of explaining the process.

Great series of videos

Hey Tom, Excellent lesson, everything learned here will be put to good use! Thanks, Ray

Tom, Nice set of vids. I learned alot from this one. ERic

Another great video of course. I will hopefully remember some of that if I ever find myself cutting a taper. I did one a long time ago on my craftsman lathe using the taper attachment and finished off with a taper reamer. The tool fit but it was not my accurate machining it was the reamer that made it true. Thanks for sharing.

Pretty thorough run-through on the pointy ends. Lots to take in....AND remember! Thanks for the great series. :-)

Excellent Job of doing the work and videos in this series !!! I watch alot of your Videos..Some things are way over my IQ level but I have learned alot.. Thank You for the Video Series on Tapers

The birds are back! That sounds so much better than that flapping noise!

Wow great videos Tom , also nice chuckception 3 chucks in one lathe lol I'm so glad you do these videos

i was all ready for you to do a cleanup pass on the chuck itself :)

Watched all four parts and found it very interesting and informative. Thanks for taking the time to share. I'm the guy a while back that you wanted a few pictures of my R. McDougall lathe. I'll try to send you a few.......Barry

Thanks for all the great info

You made my day. Will do just exactly as shown.

Excellent video Tom. Thanks to your excellent instruction, I've been able to make some short MT3 tapers.

thanks, Tom. learning great stuff.

Good stuff ! A lot of the little model engines I've built or have plans for call for a taper on the end of the crank shaft where the flywheel fits. So you have to cut the male and female (crank and flywheel) parts to fit exactly. There's no quick and easy way. I like using the height gage to find the center of the tapered piece when you are using the DTI to match the taper angle.

Awesome, thanks for making this video.

I have this exact problem on my old Delta drill press. The taper is out of whack. it's a JT33 also. I'm gonna try this! Thanks!

Hey Tom, Thanks for your videos involving The Great Taper Caper! It was most informative. A suggestion on this ND problem. If your camera has various shooting modes, a ND filter on the camera will work. Set your camera to aperture priority mode and set the aperture (f-stop). It will remain set and the shutter speed will vary to control the amount of light to the image sensor. It may take a little fiddling. Smaller apertures give the greatest depth of field. However, your shutter speed will slow and fast movements may have a "strobing" effect. Try the middle of the aperture range and see how things look. Keep adjusting the aperture until you get the desired results. Regards, Oxen Dave

Thanks Tom, I'll be giving that a try. I don't always hit the like button I forget but I like watching

Hey Tom, nice finish on the taper, wish mine were that smooth.

Great series, Tom. Thank you. I learned a lot. Been thinking about the indicator reflection issue. Have you considered Krylon Dulling Spray? I haven't had the opportunity to test it on an indicator yet, but it's used in film and video to prevent unwanted glare and hot spots from lights or sun on metal or glass. You'd probably want to make a mask to keep overspray from coating everything in the vicinity, but it might be worth a try. Available, as they say, wherever Krylon products are sold. Thanks again.

Hi Tom, regarding the glare you may try to put a circular polarization filter in front of the camera lens. Such filters are adjustable by rotating the filter bezel and in the correct position it should remove most of the glare because the light that's reflected from the indicator glas is polarised and can be cut off by the circular polarization filter. Best regards, Peter

Excellent conclusion to an informative series, and not to toot my own horn, but just before you mentioned pressing a female taper into a bored out "Chowder'd Chuck" I thought of it maybe being another repair. Yet not knowing what either your tools and labor or a Jacob's taper chuck cost, I wasn't sure if it would be worth it until you pointed out all of the effort it took to get your compound into position. I know just the first few equations you spun out would be more than enough for me to use that set up for anything I could! Combined with the fact you've got all of the tools to create such an imagining, I know it would be something I would attempt were I so well equipped because I just love to repair, recycle, re-use, and re-purpose...just like it says on the white board. Growing up in Hawaii with limited space and limited resources instills that into your life, especially when you're constantly breaking your surfboards in half ;) Thanks again, Aloha...Chuck.

Hi Tom, Good series, excellent review of ways to finally get an accurate taper, and very important, on how to control our work. I don't know what you see at your end with the neutral density or the window filter on your dial indicator, but as far as I'm concerned, the view is very adequate... Thanks, Pierre

Could you use the old chuck(if all other than the taper was ok) by shortening the length of the shaft at the tapered end so it would go in that little extra so as to grab the slightly enlarged taper in the chuck

Great video Tom! I know this is a bit older, but I found it looking for a video on matching external and internal tapers, which you nicely covered at the end. For folks with lathes that have threaded chucks (and who haven't added a keeper of some sort) rather than risk running in reverse, would you get the same results using a boring bar upside down on the far side while running in forward?

Hi Tom, I realise this is an old vidio series. But this subject will always be relevant. Really good mix of theory and practice that reinforces the usefulness of trig. One thing I find useful is to convert the angle to a ratio to understand the effect of the depth of the contemplated cut... For example, 1.8 deg is approximately 32:1 ratio. So 1 thou cut would move aprox 32 thou further along the work. Just saves me a Mr Bozzo moment, hopefully! Funny, I was hoping you would dismantle the chuck and give us an exercise in internal taper grinding. Not too many examples of That on YT!

Thanks I used a junk iorn got to much slop in it only got 2" travel on compound need almost 3", so I guess I will try to make a taper jig if I can lathe is very old craftman lathe tried to set the compound off just a little again thanks

Great series thanks Tom I can use this info I liked your tool made from the microscope jack screw clever! One question could you do the same thing with the tool post grinder?

I watched this when you first posted it. I don't think I asked then, but when doing fussy work like this, I was surprised that you didn't lock the carriage on the lathe. But then again you had a DRO and I guess if you check it, it should stay put or be easily put back into position. I'm also surprised you didn't mention a ground piece of flat stock for polishing the taper or if the flat stock was hardened it could also burnish. Catching up on re-runs, but looking for more new stuff too!

The chuck looked pretty bad when I pulled it off. I had a feeling that it was toast. Thanks for repairing my shaft. It was an epic experience in four parts. Ordered a new chuck, as you so kindly recommended and I will chuck the old chuck.

Did you ever get the glare sorted Tom? I like looking over your old stuff, its interesting.

Hi Tom, I was watching on a small laptop screen, but it looked to me as if the pin was running out more than the chuck nose. I've more than halved the run-out in a Jacobs chuck before now, just by dismantling and cleaning. More people should service drill and lathe chucks before condemning them, or trying to grind the jaws! Once the chuck jaws are as good as they're going to get I'll check the mounting taper by tightening the chuck onto a precision ground rod running true in the lathe. I've scraped out high spots and rings of galling caused when a chuck slips on the taper and got the t.i.r down to acceptable levels a number of times. If you have a spare example of a male taper then a bit of lapping them together helps too. On one occasion my serviced Jacobs chuck ended up better than the new (very cheap) chuck bought to replace it.

Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I noticed the issue with the glare, and the products you were using. I don't know if you are still having the issue, but if so, I suggest looking at a circular polarizing filter for your camera lens. They can be had for $10-20 and they do the same thing the film you are using does; however, they do it at the camera. So you can still see your gauge,

HELP ! Mister Wizard...Drizzle, Drazzle, Drazzle, Drone Time for this one to come home... to Tooter Turtle Tool Co.. Keep it up Tooter Great Stuff

Nicely done Tom. After being totally lost on the math portion, vids 2,3and 4 made sense to me.I learned a lot. Thanks for taking the time to do these these vids! Dave Aarons

Hi Tom Very nice run of vids Picture in picture with the DRO would be awsum Regards John

Hi Tom ! What you just did was - as Mr. Keith Fenner would have said - putting a $2000 bra on that Grandma of a crappy chuck - right ? ... you should have used the bra making a scale holder ... ala the one of outsidescrewball ! But a nice and informative video series anyway - thx !

I learned a lot on this taper cutting series. It was a very good lesson! For an experiment, maybe you could buy a "cheeeeeap" indicator, tear it apart and try to thinly/spray glue the (cut to fit) ND film directly to the indicator face and repair the indicator with the hand on top of the film. This "kit bashed" phantom indicator might give good viewing results for everyone. I don't think the black face indicator would work, but it would be worth a try. Thanks for sharing your knowledge....13

I have somthing I’m making like This I have an old fe reed lathe the tailstock on my lathe is a jarno taper and I’m trying to modify one of my old dead centers and put a Jacobs taper onto it but it’s hardened and I need to build up weld on the end to machine the taper out of how do I go about this do I need to anneal the dead center or can I just weld right to it

Hey Tom, great series and very informative. Was a Taper Attachment not included as an option because they are not accurate enough ?

OH THANK YOU for the best turning of short tapers and set up I have seen. now how is best way to pick up taper when longer than top slide stroke?jh

This is good, I am going to try to cutt a #2 M taper on a stainless shaft, need to try on a scrap pice first, Any hints on stainless. Again good job Richard

To get rid of specular highlights on reflective objects, photographers use a polarizing filters, "gels", over their lights, then another such filter on the lens of the camera, with its polarization axis rotated perpendicular to that of the filters over the lights. It works amazingly, but you need to polarize the source light first, then "depolarize" it at the camera.

Hi, Like all the videos, I think you could use a mix of dish soap and water to put the film on the indicators, just get the bubbles out before it drys. Keep up the good work.

Thanks Tom! I was cutting a sample taper on the weekend and was having a problem with built up edge on the cutter effecting my taper. Any suggestions? HSS tool for what it's worth.

What about a circular polarized filter? It removes glare and reflection from everything that is not shiny metal.

Neat series! On the glare, it seems to me that your overhead lights are bouncing off the flat indicator face and back into the overhead camera. I can see the same reflection on the top of the chuck and on the rear flat bed way. Would moving the lights further off centerline help? Noell Wilson

Hi Tom, Try a polarising filter on the lens, and rotate it while looking at the results. it's designed to reduce effects of reflections IF they come in as plane polarised light - not much help if it's a straight reflection of a light behind the camerra though

what if u stacked the clear screen film on top of the tinted gel-like piece

Hi Tom i would let the test indicator prove the outside of the drill chuck it can also have a bad run out from the three jigs inside ?? thank you

Looks like there's two camera issues there with the indicators, not just one. Glare or reflection, and overexposure. Have you tried a circular polarizer? It cuts out light that isn't coming in from a certain direction. You just rotate them in front of the camera to adjust. Just the thing for making the clouds pop or seeing into the insides of cars on a sunny day. Might help some. If anything, combining with the neutral density filter over the indicator would cut out the reflection of the windows or overhead lights with the ND filter taking care of the exposure adjustment.

It would be nice to use Keith fenners rollers he sells for round work and inspection

I really learned a lot about setting up tapers I get lost with the scientific calculator but that is for another sight on KZfaq. My question is about the four jaw in the 6 jaw chuck and how you decided the axis of the four jaw is straight with the lathe as there could some problem there. I have and old Fay and Scott big old lathe. and want to share some tooling with my South Bend 10 k and have a spindle out of Atlas and want a good / cheap way to check the alignment when in the Fay and Scott four jaw. What do you and every one else think?JH

How come the spindle has a Jacob's taper directly at the end, instead of a MT socket?

Have you tested any black face indicators with the camera yet? i was just looking on Ebay and noticed a few black faced indicators being sold. Also have you blocked or tried to shade the window over head as much of the glare might be from the window and not your lights. You lifetime supply of shade material might work good on the windows close by as a shade. But I spose if you ever did your shooting at night you would know if the window was the culprit or not. I used to wrap my florescent lights in red mylar so as not to expose my screens for screen printing...maybe another fix would be to wrap a few of them bulbs with your lifetime supply film.

I would try a polarizing filter on the lens. That's what they're made to do - eliminate glare. And then you only need to use it in one place - the lens, instead of every indicator or whatever else.

Hi Tom, great vid but a complaint. when you measured the with the scale we couldn't see the scale markings. howsabout you wrap some of your fancy film round the scale haha. just pulling your chain, sorry, I have a weird sense of humour. Roy

Thanks Tom Been looking for some better instruction on making tapers you hit that one home!!! Dave

Hey Tom... OK...I will ask the "stupid guy" questions... When you indicated the mounted chowder chuck you didn't check the outside of the chuck to see if it ran concentric...can you use this surface as a check and if yes that would prove that the chuck jaws were the issue? I understand you discussion of how to bore/sleeve/machine the female bore of the chuck, but if the runout is due to the chuck jaws could you tighten the jaws on the pin as shown, then chuck on the pin to cleanup/bore the chuck taper to get it concentric?, since it the runout was very small.....save the cost of a new chuck or a chowder chuck jaws won't repeat on each tightening even if concentric! Chuck

I LIKED THIS TOM GOOD JOB. hey is the concrete building good about keeping the heat out do you use AC or just fans I've thought about building a tilt panel building for my new shop, the cold storage buildings we have here for the apples got me thinkin. just a idea you could do a video on doing build up on shafts or I've had trouble with customers doing it and making hard I do some line boring on machinery and customers will try and save money by doing the welding not always a good plan one of these days I will do some video on the line boring I want to show all of the how and why , I haven't seen very many good line boring videos on you tube .

Is there any difference between a ground tapered surface and a machined tapered surface as far as hold goes?

I think that you may be looking at the wrong end of the problem for glare. Look to the camera end to reduce the glare, particularly a setting for back light glare. Most digital cameras today have a back light function that can be turned on and off. Set the back lighting function to on and then check the glare.

You have two issues with the dial gauges: overexposed and glare. You might try the 3m film over the tint film to get rid of the glare. Or try a polarizing filter on the camera. The polarizer itself did not fix the overexpose problem and the neutral density filter did nothing on the glare. That shaft looks like the one on my Horror Freight drill press. I paid $0.99 for it off Ebay (plus much more in shipping.) Still overpriced ;) Seems a shame to spend so much work on something that goes on sale for $69. But heck, we learned something. I'd have put an indicator on the body of the chuck. It looked like the jaws are "chowdered" also.I bet with a new chuck, it will work better than what the drill press is worth. Great series, looks like I need to get a sine bar for my lathe to set up tapers.

Or to make a matching female taper you use a standard boring bar and turn it upside down and cut on the back side with it still turning forward.

So how would you go about cleaning up a chuck taper? I mean, how would you chuck a chuck?

SUSJESTION if you get the opportunity please show on video mounting and the adapter for small 4 jaw chuck. I guess in my head I hadn't thought about how it was there its just there , a minute and one shot would answer a lot of questions about this for me and ( I hope that I an not alone) others thanks. jh

my frend... why u dont put the film directly in the camera lens?

Hi Tom, You seemed pretty burned out on tapers towards the end, I guess the more you hate it, the more we like it! Thumbs up from So Cal! Z

Hi Tom, Have you tried a polarizing filter? I think that might be the perfect thing to put over the camera lens to reduce glare. It reduces the intensity of reflected light. This example from the Wikipedia article makes it look promising: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polarizing_filter_(photography)#mediaviewer/File:Reflection_Polarizer.jpg You can buy polarizing film, as well as pre-made filters which screw over the camera lens like any other filter. You then rotate it to get the effect you need. Not surer if your camera has a thread though. Anyway it should be a good thing to look into. Keep up the great work! Always looking forward to your next video. Kind regards, Lee

Why not clean the taper in the chuck and face it off a bit?

Hey Tom, I don't think your indicator problem is glare. I think it's pure overexposure judging by the uniform loss of detail over the entire face of the dial regardless of viewing angle. I think you're on the right track with the film on the dial method.

The anti glare phone film got rid of the gate but the camera can't pick it up because of the indicator face being white. It is just too bright of a color compared to the rest of the stuff in the video for the camera to darken to pick up the indicator needle and markings.

at what point does a spline become a flute

Nice job! You should send him that female taper in case he wants to make a bushing for the chuck.

if that's a pc of that window tint from that box ,theres a film on it use a razor blade n itll take some of that glare away

Is that a marble worktop there haha posh

that's the one the cobbler throw at his wife. ( THE LAST )

how to measure inside taper (see comment parts 3)

you should have used your tool post grinder

Hah! The chirpers are back. I prefer the chirps. So, no problem. Just saying...

Thanks again and I am a Yankee I live in Maine but I have eperleposy witch I cant spell and neither can this computer and this condition fowls up my memory and I couldn't remember compound when I wrote first comment and always causes me to do these double comments witch is got to be annoying but we are what we are and the only to be better is try.jh

Tom the birds are better!

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