I'll come with you

please do! thank you.

Lets do this!

@@KeystoneJul yes LETS DO THIS 🌹

Don't forget David Holmgren!!!

This exactly.

And it regrows from the roots. Great plant!

Do you have any tip on how to deal with the fire ants?

One of my favorite trees.

@@victorjre If they have a 'dormant' season, put vinegar on their nests. I tried it on red ants and it didn't kill them but the offspring seem calmed...

En qué parte de Mexico vives? :))

I'm in the Mohave desert too! Gardening here is a challenge... black locust and the tree of heaven do pop up on my property on their own though

@@tiffanywilkerson5569 Oh wow, are they popping up in spots that receive irrigation or non- irrigated areas?

@@RegenerativeMojave non irrigated! There's a huge established black locust and lots of smaller ones popping up from her roots

@@tiffanywilkerson5569 Now that's awesome!! I'm gonna have to get some of them seeds from you one of these days! 🧡🙏🌲🌳🌴

@@RegenerativeMojave for sure, you can come dig up some plants... were selling the house in a few months and most people look at them as weeds. What town are you in? I'm in palmdale

Best video for me was 'new waterworks', cause he took us through his Farm. I feel like for all he talks wisely, the more of that productive nature he shows, the more easily people get converted into watching and listening about permaculture. Its like Bob Ross but for actual nature.

Same 👌

What ignorance, what stupidity.

Your comment is so accurate and definitely renews my sadness and anger about the seeming war against nature that humans generally engage in. I’ve read about men dragging heavy chains between tractors across mesquite landscapes, destroying important native ecosystems. A few remarks by Geoff in this video are really important and exciting. Shielding western afternoon light, digging “spikey pits” and filling with “useless” remnants of heavy pruning layered with manure, shade succession, pollarding for best shade, using initial tough pioneer species to begin regreening. On my 1/2-acre property in California, at 2,700 ft elevation, I am trying to do as much reintroduction of local natives that have adapted nicely to low water needs and temps ranging from 25 to 115 degrees during the year.

@@christinebottaro9017 I'd rather people used tractors and chains than spray defoliant from airplanes. Land management is one thing. Deliberate defoliation from airplanes with poison that is persistent and powerful enough to kill a mesquite tree is something entirely different. Even if they used bulldozers to push them into piles and set them on fire it would provide char for the soil and stimulate the growth of plants that need fire for germination. Personally, I like the idea of using goats to graze the under story of trees like mesquite. I have about 22 acres. About 5 acres is an old pecan orchard planted in the 20's. My neighbors look at me like I'm nuts because I'm letting wild persimmons, locust and oaks grow in my pasture. They just don't understand why I deliberately mow around giant mounds of blackberry vines and plant serecia lespediza. They look at a legume like wild indigo and don't even know what it is before they mow it down like ragweed. Why? They all look at land as a place to grow grass for cows to eat. It's a simplistic model. They can do what they want with their land. I can do with mine as I please. I just don't want their poison drifting onto mine. I hope that your efforts are rewarded with the bounty you desire.

Monsanto Herbicide Corporation men control the USDA. It has been corrupted to such a point that these agencies get paid outragious grants of government money to spray their toxins on any plant or animal Monsanto USDA has deemed invasive on their lists. Invasive species theory is their marketing scam to force their NON biodegradable poison on any natural land or water they want to denude of all life. It is killling the phytoplankton plants in the ocean now and creating vast oxygenless dead zones.

@@inharmonywithearth9982 Yeah. It's strange how they are constantly trying to convince people that legumes are evil. It doesn't matter if it is clover in someone's lawn, serecia lespediza in Kansas or the NATIVE mesquite tree in Texas. They want us to believe that these plants are a blight to be irradiated. So far Texas hasn't gone too crazy about forcing these policies. In Kansas they will steal your land if you refuse to spray lespediza which was originally planted by the government for soil remediation. It's even used as a natural goat wormer. Now the EU is telling Dutch farmers that they need to reduce the NITROGEN in their soil? WTAF?

Leucaena?

@Hendrik Huevel I agree. I also ascribe to what David the Good says about pushing the zone. If you go by what you "aren't supposed to be able to grow," you'll never find varieties of plants that can adapt to the conditions you're in. if you give them what they need, they'll grow.

Besides "pushing the zone" I would try ( and personally I would prioritize) seeking what IS hardy to your climate and in particular, especially if $ or resources make this the best fit, what is already there/"likes" to thrive there. Search for permaculture tree/plant nurseries in Spain or nearby in similar climates, they may be able to really help you. If you can't find any, reach out to Richard Perkins of Ridgedale permaculture in Sweden, he has done work all over the world and has taught a lot too, and probably knowns people in Spain, who know people &/or resources to help you . Also do an internet search using the key words of your climate ( plants for arid, mountain, cold, high desert climates ; for example ) then check with local nurseries for those plants, but also ask them what they recommend. Once you get a bunch of really hardy stuff established, creating windbreaks, feeding the soil & so on, then I would risk experimenting with less-hardy things. Remember to use animals as much as you can, and grow whatever you can for their food, and not just vegetables and grains, but meal worms or etc. maybe too ( for chickens). Maybe a tough breed of goats or sheep would be best for your area though.

It _can_ get fairly cold in the desert as well AND if your trees would die off in a cold spell every 10 years, you would still profit from them these 10 years. Moreover: you could maybe cover the ground so whatever happens above ground does not affect the roots and the undground stays warmer thanks to insulation. Prosopis has 20 - 24 m deep roots and they found one that was / is digging 48 m deep. Such a plant is not easily frozen to death. When you can regrow from a vast roots network, you can skip a lot of developing stages. So even if an extreme cold event would take the above ground growth, they'll bounce back within two years. AND: you do not lose the fungal networks between the trees, so that continues to work for you.

If I remember correctly Leucaenia is considered an invasive species in some areas (warm and more moisture). Certainly not in Jordan it is too dry. So you would have to research that feature. In Spain there are more winter rains. And if you do not control your prosopis it might also go rampant. - I also think there must be some hardy native trees / bushes.

but being a permaculturalist means that too 😁

how do you do that? I am in the uS southwest with plenty of mesquites.

@@catherinebrown8934 in the case of dragon fruit, you need a section of the vine, it's best if it's already rooted, you can find a lot of tutorials on KZfaq about starting dragon fruit. Then plant it right next to the trunk. The dragon fruit will release aerial roots to take hold of the mesquite bark. In the case of Chayote squash just drop a whole chayote in loose soil near the base of the tree, chayotes love to climb. Passion fruit, will also look for something to climb, but needs a bit more root space and help at first. You can plant it about 2 feet from the trunk of a tree but give it a trellis to reach the first branches.

I think the soil is probably drained- or the grass is- I see that with people that never allow their grass to seed. They think cutting regular is better but they end up with weak roots and not allow new propogation. Grass has to be a certain height to do its job retaining moisture also. That and cranefly leatherjackets can just plain eat up the root systems if they are weak. Also people often cut the grass and then put it in a bin to be taken away- there are only so many times your soil can support that. There is moss as well, if you don't scarify. You can look after a grass system in German climate the bigger issue is people don't understand it at all. If Spain can do it-

@@carbon1255 there is "grass" and meadows and then there is "lawn". Which is a completely unnatural form of growth. An adivce from a lawn expert if someone has moss or weeds. Fertilize more and cut it at least once or twice a week. Now that is completely unnatural. and if there are some roots left of course only very few types of grass will survive, you can get rid of moss and weeds that way. it is also a very high maintainance crop.

@@carbon1255 Lawn is suprisingly bad in soaking up water - well of course, the pampered grass forms dense mats of shallow roots that depend on being watered all the time, and if you dare not water them during a hot spell it will quickly get ugly. - this is even an issue with heat pumps. The heat extracted from underground (during winter) must be regenerated, and that mostly happens with rain (that soaks in and rain is warmer, maybe only 1 degree or 2 degrees more than soil, but it adds up). So flower beds or a rarely cut lawn (more a meadow) would be good. Gravel on the surface is also good to regenerate heat underground - not for biodiversity or when it comes to cooling the area. Lawn is not that good either when it comes to letting the rain soak in. If there are downpours and water can flow off - it will, because the perfect English lawn is that bad when it comes to soaking up water.

One advantage of the short English lawn is ticks - those are kept down with a lot of mowing. So I see a compromise (depending on the age of children and how you want to use the garden, for instance playing soccer or badmington) and putting up some perenial groundcover in less frequented spaces that you can occasionallly walk on and that you do not need to water or care for (and will not mow more than once during the season. At the maximum). Even strawberries (the smaller ones, that have smaller fruit but all season long - "forest strawberries, monthly strawberries") can do that job. They maintain a nice green cover under sheer and utter neglect and no watering, in a fairly sunny spot and during a hot July and August - ask me how I know ;) Which may explain why they had almost no fruits and not very many air roots (that I could discern as young shoots). June was wet so maybe they were done with propagation by mid July and saved their energy in July and August. But they also require almost no care, and provide an intact green cover. And you can step on them, although their area does not get a lot of action. The strawberries quickly occupy all the space if you give them some initial help (shallow digging of the soil, carton cover of ground, mulch on it !, if possible let that sit for 1 month, but that is not a must. Mulch shoved aside, strawberries planted into holes that you tear into the wet carton. And then put back the mulch on top - 2 cm minimum - can be more (so the carton will not dry out and almost become water repelling). The mulch-covered carton stays moist, worms will decompose it, but until then it serves as "tarp" and prevents other plants from growing. In one season the stawberries will dominate the space you prepared for them. And with the mulch the carton does not look bad (just use brown, matte carton with no print on it, if some carton can be seen through the mulch cover it does not look good. I did not mind the look of shreddered branch / foliage look, it goes well with a natural environment. The carton / mulch prevents that deep rooting persistent weeds that you do not want, have little chance to establish themselves - the space will be quickly taken by the plants you chose, infrequent, minimum weeding will do. And as strawberries are said to have shallow roots * they are easy to remove if you want to grow something else. If interested in propagation tips - read on. * Well strawberries do go a little deeper - and you can see that if you try to dig out plants - if they were never spoiled with watering, fertilizer and had to make do with unamended loamy, dense soil. However they are easy to kill if you cover them with a tarp or carton layers, they are not like persistent deep rooting weeds. Or even worse plants that use rhizomes to propagate. Those are the most annyoing weeds. The airroots of strawberries are an effictive growth strategy but gardeners can keep strawberries easily enough in check or replace them. There are also blue flowering plants that on can allegedly walk on, those are a good fit for ground cover. Isotoma Blue Foot® (Isotoma fluviatilis). Not sure how heat tolerant they are, or if they bounce back if you have to let them dry up (watering bans) - but everything is better than the classic lawn. You can search with groundcover to replace lawn. Strawberries mostly procreate with air roots, the stawberry grows a line on which you have one or several shoots / air roots. In German they are called "Kindling". But be warned they also form mats if you let the small strawberries grow as groundcover (this time the mats are above ground, so that is good for soaking in rain) - the major advantage of that: it is also hard to get young plants for a productive strawberry bed from that ground cover. It is difficult to discern how old the plants are, and all the lines are crossing, so it is even hard to find which are the youngest plants that have established their roots in the ground inbetween the older plants - it is such a intransparent situation. Following the lines to find out what is a mother plant and what are the plants that grew from it (and how old these are) is almost impossible. And if you want fruits (not only care-free ground cover) you have to work with young plants and replace them after a few years (and also change the location where you grow them). We have such an old (fairly old) strawberry groundcover patch in the garden - they were almost matted including all the strings between the former airroots (now mostly established plants). Digging out a few (hoping they are not too old) and planting those in a pot for some coddling until late summer did not work too well either. Taking them from the edges (where the young shoots ventured into non-strawberry territory - even tarmac) worked best. There you could distinguish what IS a new plant, and give it the VIP treatment. Putting them into a pot standing nearby the mother plant, the line to the mother plant still intact worked best. What you could do is covering a stripe (not wide) with carton, putting good soil on it and waiting until the mature plants rush to send over their air roots. Then you can put up small pots (or even better dig those pots into the soil to minimize evaporation losses, or you cover the little pots with mulch). And put the airroots into the pots. The "umbilical cord" to the mother plant is left intact, so the young sprout with the tiny roots still gets nutrients and water from the mother plant. Because of the special treatment those young shoots can establish good roots quickly and you can plant them in late summer - if you want to set up a bed for fruits, or you need lots of plants for cover ground without paying a lot - this would be a method. (and getting some young shoots from friends and neighbours in summer, although they may not use the pot method and then you need to invest more care into the young plants. Once you have a colony established it is easy to help them cover more ground - but they are not rampant. They will venture into English lawn territory but if you mow them that will finish those pioneers off, no weeding needed. And I do not think you need to set up "borders" with wood or concrete border stones etc. either. Just define a line where you run the lawn mower. What grows on the wrong side of the line is in bad luck.

What part of the country are you in, and how are the pecans doing?

Hello anjali

How’s your garden this year ? Mine very crispy (I’m near Pemberton)

We’ve planted about 400 trees on our place. One of the only farms that still have water in our dams

Both are pioneer species as well...

They are great as a barbeque wood too!

Palo verde tree is our equivalent to this nitrogen fixer

Please give me more details. It sounds like a good idea

Could you please share the video in your comments?

@@benscanlan4818 The video is called, Getting to the Root of Nitrogen Fixation. The channel name is Journey to the microcosmos. You need to copy and paste the title in the youtube search bar and search for it by yourself. I can't make it any easier for you.

@@benscanlan4818 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z61je7Bo0ZuseaM.html

@@benscanlan4818 Could you let me know if the link works? Not all the channel owners allow it that links are being shared in the comment section.

@@insAneTunA yeah it works mate. Thank you. Will let you know when I've watched it, would love to have someone to talk to about this kind of topic.

About half way through. This is just so wise. In the American Southwest, the pioneer plants, the foundation components are all here. People got to get over the prejudice against trees and shrubs that have arrived and represent an effort by Gaia to replace what’s lost with something that will still work.

These lessons can be applied in many different desert areas around the world, which are the main problematic areas on this planet.

Take advantage of your palo verde!

Almost for sure the site at Jordan is way too small to induce additional rainfall. When more and more people see that possibility and have persistence to work with nature, hopefully there is once the time when combined sites would do. E.g. ca 70% of land protected from Sun by reasonably covering vegetation with size in a linear dimensions of many tens if not few hundreds of kilometers, combined with well analysed water-harvesting earthworks in strategic locations. Currently there is nothing to loose, so I would rather question: why not to try if good examples as that site in Jordan proves that it is possible.