+roy castillo Agreed.

roy castillo I second this, you can get a car tire for not much more than a bike tire at this point

roy castillo more than a car tire that lasts 10x longer

A decent motorcycle tyre is $300-$400 aud. Overpriced too.

roy castillo there are USD6.00 700C Kenda wirebeads though. took it offroad gravel on my hybrid townbike once and had zero cuts. trail was full of sharp stones. eye opener.

No plans. Just options that I choose on the day depending on time, weather, location, etc. I know what I need to get done for whatever's coming up and just switch up intervals/training around those.

Yep, just a dusting will stop the inner tube from sticking to the tyre. Easy to wipe clean if you need to put on a sticky patch too.

Not. The best tire should be on front. A front blowout is much more problematic than a rear blowout.

yeah, that's exactly what he said.

1) Left. Just because. 2) It shouldn't. 3) No idea. 3-4k km maybe. Race tyres are very bad for wheel-on trainers. I use direct drive 99.99% of the time.

+Pete F These Roubaix are some kind of hybrid bastardised 23/25... they measure around 24.5mm across when on the rim and inflated. 25 with a wider rim looks like a nice option these days... especially after riding such good roads overseas and coming back to the rough shite they lay here in AU.

Oh yeah, I just spent 9 days wondering where my taxes had gone ;) Sure as heck wasn't on roads. I bought some 28s but couldn't get them to fit the Time frame, they should go on the Ritchey Break-away however and would be a good choice for that use I think. How times have changed from "thinner is better" 'eh! Keep up the great content Lama!

Latex tubes for race day/tyres. Having to pump up my tyres every single ride with latex on training tyres is a pain.

I guess it depends on your riding Shane. Not living in the land of Oz, there are gaps when you don't ride if you live in a northern climate. As well some days are MTB and some goofing around on your cross bike. For days when it is a road bike day, I don't mind pumping. Call it a ritual or authentic / old school, but this combo of tire and tube feels good without going to a full tubular setup. Keep up the good work!.

Preventative measure only. You don't /have to/, but as shown, my rear was squaring off.

Those are 23/25.... some mid range something or others. They measure 24.3mm when on the rims I have.

Yep, they're a good pick. Matched with latex tubes and they roll and race well.

I like them.... and I can get them locally from the LBS (yeah, I do support local when I can)... GP4000 are also a good choice though. They're 1/2 price online than in stores here.

That's ok by me. I don't know her either.

No experience there sorry.

For training and most racing, yes. I need to be able to get home without messing about.

Nike of some sort... this was many years ago.

Foldable

+Karl Billeter Not for just scooting around. Race day and solid training days are different.

The wear indicators?

I never seen one lol , And I use the tires till the threads come off :)) Maybe they don't put them here.

At 1:03 Those are ''wear indicators ''?:)

Now I am 100 % we don't have wear indicators on our bicycles tires here :))

Yes.

For science. And it isn't like I'd be running a gumwall and non gumwall tyre any time soon on the same bike. Don't stress it. There's a lot more to worry about than a front tyre on the Internets.

Jan De Wel thanks for your reply Shane 🙂. Enjoy the riding this weekend!

Just stepped back in the door from a magnificent ride. Almost hit some kangaroos! Video of those going up on Instagram in a few minutes.

Probably too much exercise in one video!

No way is that irish

oh, look at you mister tubular tyre. if you are not completely incompetent it only takes you 5 minutes to change a clincher on the road (except you got one tight mf clicher, thats a different story). good luck with that if your tubulars fail

asgard69 not me mate, watching others change their clinchers, they take ages most of the time. That is the real world mate. All you do is pull off the tubular, stretch on the new one your spare, put a few pumps of air just to check it is straight, hit it with the co2. Done ready to go. Tubulars ARE quicker, full stop as you don't need to check for the thing that caused the puncture. Tubulars use to be the system of choice, they are the gold standard. They still have advantages over clinchers. What do you think happens when you are decending and you have a blow out on a clincher? Hey? Your rim is the only thing contacting the ground, with a tubular at least you still have rubber under your rim. They are safer. Also carbon tubulars are lighter and safer than carbon clinchers due to not having 100psi behind the brake track. You can choose your clincher for convienence, i choose my tubulars for safety.

Excuse my newbiness, but aren't tubulars suposed to be glued ?

Poc yes, glued or taped. But when you flat, you just put it on with no glue or tape. When inflated it is pretty solid, just don't go scrapping pedals on the way home, as they can roll off if you push it

So to summarise. You carry around a whole tubular tyre as a spare, and when it punctures you need to be careful when cornering in case it rolls off. Which it more often than not will do. The whole "tubulars are safer" argument is frankly bullshit. I've seen many tubs roll off over the years, both on the road and on the track, and the results aren't pretty. It happens real fast and the crash is generally a hard one. Maybe Mr "It looks so strange to watch a person put on a clincher" should go educate the pros on how stupid they are, as every single one I've seen trains on clinchers. Racing? A different story as the whole wheel is changed when punctured, they are fractionally faster (but not much these days, that argument is also mostly redundant in the last 10 years), and can be carefully ridden with little to no air which can be a huge advantage in a professional RACE situation. If you want to run tubs, knock yourself out, but spare everyone your cocky attitude

+Oscar Laight 👏🏼 👏🏼 👏🏼