You're welcome, happy to know you enjoyed it. Thanks for the feddback. Cheers Steve

Thanks, pleased you enjoyed it. Cheers Steve

It's on the list of videos to make. i'll let you know when it's uploaded in the meantime I cover some dovetail cutting on this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a82je6WCurzDeaM.html more can be found on our website. wwwwoodworkingmasterclass.com.au and our KZfaq Channel kzfaq.info/love/amxdpLgM4yPF5fgxzG2y5g Cheers Steve

+1873Winchester Thanks for that, you might get me metricated yet.lol Cheers Steve

The cut is the solvent right so one pound of alcohol I'm gettin a dresser in a week and let's say I use a 1 pound of shellac and x amount of alcohol how much alocohol would I need

What do you mean by g grams ?

+Rory McCabe For a 1 pound cut you would need 1 gallon of DAA. Initially I make a stock solution then cut it into a 4 pound mix and break it down even further when using it. Cheers Steve

Hi Shevill, How true, but still nice to know both. Thanks for the comment. Cheers Steve

Hi Nizaam, It is cloudy unless you are using De-waxed shellac. Once it has been strained and diluted it will appear to dry clear but will be murky in the container you are storing it in. Cheers Steve

'Hi Mark. We fortunately have clear DAA here. I have seen purple coloured Meths but don't use it myself so cannot comment if it changes the colour of the finish. I would say not but not 100% sure when it comes to dewaxed blond. But if Paul Sellars uses it I would say that's a good indication it's OK. Never heard of, nor used, Briwax Shellac Sealer. Cheers Steve

Woodworking Masterclass Thanks Steve, for such a comprehensive answer.

I have no idea as I have never used it but try some and see. Cheers Steve

Woodworking Masterclass I would love to hear about it if you do try. I can’t find any information on using isopropyl in shellac. I have access to 99% pure and was wondering what the differences might be, either in looks or function.

Sorry should have mentioned agitate often. I've heard many symptoms that suggest flakes are out of date. But have only had problems with some solutions that have been mixed and not used over a long period of time. Best way to tell is use some and if it will not dry hard the game is over. By the way the term for Shellac that won't harden is called "Blocked" So if you have some shellac that's blocked either throw it away or try re-melting with some fresh DAA. Cheers Steve

Ok thanks, but in the end I had to stir a few times with a stick, as it remained a gooey blob stuck to the bottom of the jar (with agitating doing very little, even over 48 hours).

Other than that you can always add more DAA. If it's to weak leave it open over night and it will evaporate quite a bit. Cheers Steve

thanks - obviously, not too much to change the ratio.

No, it's not that critical. Cheers Steve

Yes flakes do get old and will not work. The time varies from stock to stock. A tell tale sign for some is that they develop a greenish tinge to the flakes in the sunlight. (but not all the time) My advice it throw them away and get some fresh flakes. I use DDA 99% if it does not dissolve the shellac then it the shellac at fault not the alcohol. Using new flakes you should be fine. Cheers Steve

Thanks a lot Steve for your help. I will do so...cheers

Hi Peter, De-waxed is the way to go for a sanding sealer or under-finish. Normal Shellac will work OK under an enamel or oil finish but will act as a barrier under acrylic. The other nice thing with de-waxed is that it will not alter the colour of the timber beneath is as it is clear and pigment free. Great for lighter coloured wood. Downside is it does have a shelf life which is considerably shorter than other shellacs. Having said that it's still a good time at least a year. My preference in most cases is dewaxed tat hard to French polish with, yet still very attainable. Hope that sheds some light in it for you. Cheers Steve

Thank you for your answer. Apologies, could you just clarify: When you refer to, de-waxed is the way to go….”Under finish” did you mean under Polyurethanes/varnishes/lacquers etc? And the words, “Normal shellac will work OK under an oil finish”, were you referring to oil based stains or also some other things?

@@peterg902 Dewaxed will go under almost anything and be fine. I would not stain over any shellac, stain first then add shellac. and yes "Normal" golden shellac go with oil based finished but again I would not put a stain OVER it add stain then shellac. I know this from personal experience just finished a table with normal shellac and sprayed acrylic over the top when I went to polish it the acrylic came away like a sheet of cling film. Ahh experience the great teacher :) Cheers Steve

Thanks. However, It is likely that many use a 1 pound cut or so of shellac to prevent stain blotching (under stain).

@@peterg902 I would't recommend staining over the shellac. But stain first then shellac. Even that can cause problems with removing the stain as the shellac is applied. Cheers Steve

No and Yes. You can spray over shellac but it has to be 'De-Waxed Blonde' Shellac. It will not stick to any other type of shellac as they all contain wax. French polish will give a very high clear gloss finish which is achieved by using shellac and applying it onto the job via a Polishing Rubber. Cheers Steve

Woodworking Masterclass Thanks Steve. Understood 👍

I found that one out the hard way after spraying a set of side tables the finish just literally slid off. Cheers Steve

Hi Mark, I generally get 60 liters at a time and go in with a mate who buys it in 44's somewhere in NSW. Drop me an email and I'll see if I can get more info for you. www.woodworkingmasterclass.com.au Cheers Steve

Hi Steve, over a walnut stain I would use Golden or normal shellac flakes. Garnet is a Red colour. But of the 2 you suggested Blonde would be the best for that colour. Test some on another piece of timber first as it may rip out the stain beneath. If that happens apply a thin coat of Raw linseed oil over the stain and let it stand for a couple of hours before applying the shellac. Cheers Steve

@@Woodworkingmasterclass great! thanks. got it!

@@steveroufas1938 If you get stuck drop me a message. Cheers Steve

Try new metho. If still no good and the shellac has clumped up. Place a quantity of in a in bag and smash up with a hammer almost to a power then try again. If neither of those work buy some new shellac. Cheers Steve

@@Woodworkingmasterclass Thank you Steve I will give it a go.

+Gordon Clark Regarding DAA (Denatured Absolute Alcohol) where about are you? Are you in Brisbane? For the measurements it's incremental. 4lb to 1 Gal. 2lb to 4Pints, 1lb to 2pt. 4oz to 1/2 pint and so on or the metric equivalents. I make up a stock solution of 4lb 1. For convenience. 2. it allows me more options than french polishing. Cheers Steve

+Woodworking Masterclass Thank you for the reply. I am in Melbourne and the shellac I bought is Feast Watson Mastertouch in a 250gm container. To add to my confusion, the instructions says for thinning and clean up use, methylated spirits without actually mentioning mixing. I looked at Woodwork Forum and noticed that a member says to make sure you use 100% metho. Looking at my metho bottle from Bunnings it doesn't mention what type of metho and therefore I suspect it isn't pure. I looked at the Carbetec site (where I get a lot of my tools) and see that they have 100% metho so I intend to go tomorrow and buy some. To add further to my confusion, watching American tube sites they talk about using denatured alcohol and you say to use DAA (?) so I don't know if I can use one of those or stick to the instructions about metho. The shellac is de waxed although it does't say on the container and again this information was gleaned from the writer in the Woodwork Forum. Sorry to be long winded but maybe any comments from you will help others understand this product.

+Gordon Clark I would be surprised if it was de-waxed as i'm sure the one Bunnings stock is just straight Shellac, what they call 'golden flake'. You can use just plain old metho if that's all you can get. If you are brushing it on you won't really notice the difference but when polishing with a rubber (French Polishing) it can get a bit tacky and does not go of as quick as DAA. Carbatec used to sell it for around $20.00 a litre. If you were closer I'd let you have some for a lot less but unfortunately It can't be posted. Really easay way top mix it if you don't want to measure. Put it in a jar just cover the flake you have in the jar with metho give it a shake whenever you are passing by should dissolve in 1-2 days. Grab an old scotch bottle fill it one third with the stock and top up the other 2/3's with metho and you're in business. Cheers Steve

+Woodworking Masterclass Thanks Steve. I appreciate all the advice. I will see how it goes.

+Gordon Clark Looking forward to seeing the results. Cheers Steve

The solvent used is DENATURED ABSOLUTE alcohol. Wouldn't recommend t for auto application as it is heat sensitive. Cheers Steve

@@Woodworkingmasterclass Hi Steve. I can find industrial methylated spirits. This is the same as stuff your using isn't it? Thanks

@@Riffme81 Not 100% sure but fairly sure its the same stuff. Cheers Steve

There are as many answers to that as there are woodworkers Peter. But from my own experience a long time. I have uses stock that I had mixed 2 years before and have used some 1lb cut that I have had for even longer. The way to tell when Shellac is pasted its usefulness is when you use some and it is still sticky a day later. Mix up a new batch and on you go. That by the way is why I only mix small quantities at a time. De-waxed Blond Shellac is a different story and does have a use by date which is generally 12 months from mixing.

Use isopropílic alcool

Great Idea, Michael. Thanks I'll give it a go. Cheers Steve

Meridian Herschel If that works for you that's fantastic, I like to measure only so I can gauge what size cut i'm using when it comes to french polishing. But, really it's all about what works for the individual. Thanks for the comment Cheers Steve.

Woodworking Masterclass True actually.

Sorry, must be that darn Aussie accent but I believe what I said was 113 grams by 284 mils. I still reckon is sounds better as a 4 pound cut. Cheers Steve

Thanks. It's not the accent, but I'm not english.

Zamfir Radu Not a problem, where are you from? I enjoy to seeing where in the world people are watching.

Romania

Zamfir Radu Wow, i'm impressed, thanks for letting me know. All the best with your woodworking.

Hi Aaron, yeah at least we get noticed then. lol Cheers Steve

+Steve Worgan Imperial i'm guessing. Cheers Steve

+maine932 Now we can't have that and seeing i'm just about to go to bed. I could not sleep without answering you. The first is a 4 pound cut, which is generally called stock and very thick and not that practical to use. After it has dissolved, 1 or 2 days, it that can be decanted and broken down even further to a more desirable liquid form that can then be used for varnish or in the French Polishing process. A common cut for french polish in the beginning is a 2 pound cut, which requires the stock be broken down by using 3X1/4 parts alcohol and 1 part stock. For a thicker 3 pound cut 1/4 part alcohol to 1 part stock is used. A 1 pound cut is made with 4 parts Alcohol to 2 parts stock. Not sure if that clears it or clouds it for you. But anyway go get the sharp objects, have a good feed of Bacon and eggs and slowly get up from the couch without hurting yourself. Cheers Steve lol.

Sir, Actually, that does clear this matter a bit, although I did have to re-read it a few times. I have written this down in a journal using my finest crayons, while my wish is a high gloss finish on an ash table top I plan on making this winter. I am new to the hobby of woodworking, and you have been a great help. I thank you for your time and speedy response. Yes, you have called me back from the ledge, and in your honor I shall try mixing my own "spirits!" One for the table, and a second mixture for me...slightly different, but sure to create it's own masterpiece. Bob.

+maine932 ...and that's why I slept the sleep of the just. Word of caution don't get the spirits mixed up, I did once. Job looked awful and I can't remember the next 3 days! Cheers Steve

Hi Robert, It's a ratio mix whatever cut you want add that to :8 So a 3lb cut is 3:8 and a 2 pound 2:8 8 being 8 pints. Reduce the amount of mixed shellac you want but always keep the same ratio. 1 pint of a 3 pound mix would be an 1/8th of a pound or 8oz of shellac flakes to 1 Pint of Spirit. Times the 8oz by 8 = 48oz or 3lb. Times the 1 pint by 8 = 8 pints or 1 gal so the ration is still a 3lb mix. 3 lb to 1 gal. Hope that helps a bit. Cheers Steve

or maybe I will......

@@herbertvonsauerkrautunterh2513 There are always choice. Whichever you choose is the right one for that moment. Cheers Steve