Anibal Sonera Thumbs up, replacing a thermal shutoff like that with a jumper, even though it makes it work again is potentially very dangerous. Mostly fire hazard and bodily harm if done the way I have seen this video and another one. Thank you for making this text comment as I would have suggested it myself.

Thank you very much for sharing this info. Mine just stopped working in the same way as described in this video and I am familiar with thermal fuses and how they work. I've disassembled my shop vac a few times to lubricate the squealing shaft, but will check the fuse when I pull it apart again. I think I may have to replace the entire motor on mine since it has had an ongoing issue with the shaft and/or bearings.

I contacted Shopvac and asked for them to make this fusible link available as a part. I told them guys were putting in jumpers, car fuses, all sorts of improper fixes.They said to buy a powerhead. In other words trash a powerhead for the lack of an 89 cent fuse. So Shopvac would prefer to have guys installing a jumper where a safety fuse would be, it seems. If mine goes belly up I'm not spending $150 or more for a powerhead, that probably isn't available anyway. I'm putting in a thermal fuse! I have done it before for space heaters, pressure cookers, and so on. Maybe they figure they are not liable if shade tree Jimmy puts a jumper and starts a fire, but if the same guy screws up the install of a Shopvac provided part, they might be.

Have you ever seen a thermal cutout? A thermal cutout is not a piece of copper as was there originally. A thermal cutout opens up based on temperature. A coffee pot uses a thermal cutout to regulate water temperature. At thermal cutout re-sets itself and is used again and again. A fuse is a one time use item. At best, the piece of copper that got bypassed is a crude fuse, designed to render your shopvac useless when the motor bushings get dry. When the bushings get dry, the motor current increases. The wires and connectors in series with the connection in question will open next if the motor draws too much current. The wires are just big enough to carry the required current. Fuses are designed to protect wires. A person could put a wire that is two sizes under-sized in place of the open fuse and have a fuse. There is redundancy built in to the design. Use a power-strip with a built in breaker for this modification for best use practices. This video is designed to show you the point of failure for this issue and the proper fix is up to you. My fix is to prove the my diagnosis was correct. Fix at your own risk.

You're definitely right. It's a normal fusible link. It's nothing special, but it's obvious the manufacturer did not intend for the fuse to be replaced. The only time it draws enough current to burn out is when the spherical brass bearing at the top of the motor shaft becomes too worn. This is also why they make that terrible "screaming duck" noise. It's a common problem with Shopvac and like designs. In fact I'm waiting on a ball bearing I just ordered to replace that POS in my own vacuum. If it weren't for that design "feature" these things would last for ages.

@@user-px1wj2uv3r Sadly, you know that nothing is made to last these days. Such a shame, too as most of the younger generation have been conditioned to throw everything away and just buy a new one!

@@Laggin6 That's the sad truth. It's okay though....the more they throw away, the cheaper my projects gets lol