I see what you did there

They amp me up

It's his energetic enthusiasm! They are educational and energizing

Absolutely. 3rd month apprentice here, and they are indispensable. These videos (and the shorts) have single-handedly given me an edge over any of the other apprentices in our shop.

His animations are really spot on. Very easy to understand.

Yup. I often work on homes that are 100+ yrs old. I'm not an 'electrician' , but have a EE degree. This stuff is SO hard to explain to homeowners, etc. Many/most of the older homes/buildings only have 2 prong outlets, etc. Ironically, with all the non-metalic things we use today have almost zero chance of having hot side shorting to anything conductive. (N.B. I didn't say never or always, rather, things are trending that way)

To clarify a bit....short circuits create a swift rise in current that increases the magnetic field around the circuit. Overloads gradually increase the current correlating to a rise in temperature. Hence the modern Thermal-Magnetic Breaker: Thermal for overload trip; Magnetic for fault/short circuit trips. GFCI breakers are one way to add additional protection to older wiring systems without a ground wire as you described. Unfortunately, since the GFCI is designed to detect low level imbalance currents in the 5mA range, this can create nuisance tripping for some loads. In these cases, a ground wire must installed in conjunction with a thermal-magnetic breaker for proper operation of the load while providing adequate circuit protection.

thanks you save me lot of typing. The reason why you want the ground is so that lose wire touching that metal housing current goes somewhere and that trips the breaker(or fuse) instead of laying there like snake waiting to bite you.

This is shocking im really jolted reading this

​​@@mduraliawell said. A GFCI will detect the "missing" ~5mA that is not flowing from hot to neutral; the likely leak is a fault is a hot fault to ground, thus unmetered by the GFCI and explaining that acronym. However, a ground must be attached to a GFCI outlet to provide a fault path to attached grounded devices. And it must be backed by a traditional over-current breaker (or arc-fault breaker if code dictates).

neutral is meant to have current under normal conditions, ground would only have current under abnormal conditions (safety).

​@alanbumbai thank you sir!!!!

To fully understand the nature of a NEUTRAL RETURN as distinguished from a GROUND to EARTH you need to examine the difference between the TRANSMISSION & DISTRIBUTION of POWER. If you look at the THREE PHASE TRANSMISSION SYSTEM in Wave Form then you will notice that at any given moment t(x) the SUM of the current in the three phases always = ZERO... that is a balanced system... arising from stepping up V to max & dropping Amps down to min for transmission with as close to zero magnitude of resistance as possible in order to travel a great distance without any loss of power thru impedance in the conductor [&/or environmental conditions affecting the capacity of the conductor viz developing impedance]... power of course once generated always remains the same [P = V x A]... once you get to the house(s) and the power needs to do work then you TRANSFORM the power from High V Low A to HIGH A Lower V so devices can do work & hence LOADING OCCURS... and since LOADING can never in a practical sense be balanced at ANY GIVEN MOMENT t(x) you have an imbalanced system & there MUST be somewhere for that imbalanced current to go in order for the circuit to be completed back to source... so in order to save needless expense over LONG DISTANCES in TRANSMISSION where you have HIGH V & LOW A in a totally BALANCED SYSTEM there is NO NEED for the NEUTRAL CONDUCTOR to exist... think about the cost of each conductor over say 10 miles from generation to distribution... that is a lot of conductor you are NOT installing! THAT is the necessity of the NEUTRAL RETURN... to carry the imbalanced current BACK TO THE SOURCE... so to keep it simple: 1. The GROUND EXISTS to divert any unanticipated current in a device/shroud etc away from the hazard as much as possible so that the GROUND SYSTEM will be the BEST path to ground rather than a person standing there touching something that has the unanticipated current AND the NEUTRAL EXISTS to ensure that there is a PATHWAY BACK TO THE SOURCE for the current to travel completing the circuit & allowing the hazard to be defected in the overload/short device so it can function & trip... The REASON for BONDING the two NEUTRAL & GROUND at the 1st point of disconnect as the vid addresses is to ensure that the above is satisfied... however that is NOT the sole reason for the BONDING bcuz there is also the scenario where PRIOR to service entry the NEUTRAL or GROUND is disconnected... in which case you may have the dangerous result of a floating NEUTRAL... by BONDING the NEUTRAL RETURN & GROUND at the 1st point of disconnect it ensures that such a disconnect PRIOR to service entry will allow again the circuit to function with all safety measure in place & able to detect the hazard... so this comment with the yt channel creator's video should be the full explanation of the necessity of BOTH a NEUTRAL RETURN & GROUND SYSTEM in any unbalanced system > ANY SYSTEM that has LOADING at any given moment t(x) practically speaking will NEVER have the current sum = zero & MUST therefore have the presence of a NEUTRAL RETURN to source for that less than but still van be significant current. Next you should study the PRACTICAL aspects of OPEN NEUTRAL/ "Floating" Neutrals and see the scenarios where the NEUTRAL RETURN is turned into a full on CONDUCTOR... hence carrying sometimes twice or more current than any one circuit was designed to carry via the installation, this happens when a COMMON NEUTRAL RETURN is utilized on different circuits & when the pigtails are removed the NEUTRAL AND THE PERSON can act like a part of a DBL or greater CIRCUIT... a very dangerous situ that home owners are almost 100% unaware of since they never do diagnostics & simply look at the color of the insulation as the sole evidentiary basis for their "circuit analysis" when they decide they want to DIY... this may be how the game "operation" was invented... you touch the metal & BOZO's NOSE LIGHTS UP & a BUZZER sounds! I hope this comment helped you on your journey to fully understanding the difference between & necessity of the NEUTRAL RETURN vs the GROUDING SYSTEM in distribution networks.

Mostly because this is DANGEROUS practice and should not be followed (if you did it in the UK you would be prosected under Regulation 8(4) of the Electricity Safety, Quality and Continuity Regulations 2002). What you should do, in cases where the earth loop impedance is insufficient to reliably operate a circuit breaker, is provide an RCD/GFCI for fault protection (in addition to any RCDs/GFCIs provided for additional protection). The danger, particularly on an overhead supply, is that the neutral (which is also therefore your earth) breaks and the line conductors do not. This is a particular issue for things like electric vehicle charging where an equipotential zone cannot be maintained (as you are in contact with the real earth). It is true that distribution network operators, in the spirit of cheapness, do typically provide such a bond in the cutout rather than maintaining a solid link all the way to the transformer/origin. This still risks the same dangers but is at least a controlled environment.

If you didn't reference your electrical system to ground/earth , so had no connection between physical ground and neutral, then you would not get a shock touching a faulty light energized to 120V, as you will not be completing the circuit as the electrical system is not referenced to the physical ground anywhere (including not being tied to ground at the transformer). This is a typical setup for small generators, the trouble with this setup is, although a lot of people might say why don't we do that as we eliminate the shock risk from touching a hot wire while in contact with the ground, this is correct and for the first fault there will be no shock risk, but you would also be unaware of it and this fault would be fortuitously referencing the electrical system to ground, therefore any additional faults will present a shock risk despite the fact you thought you were protected by them, referencing the neutral to ground ensures electrical faults act in a predictable way.

Yep couldn't have put it better

If bonding to neutral is done solely to provide a path back to utility why wouldn't we just bond it to black in this scenario?

Yes. I don't understand how these videos that have only partially correct information get all these amazing comments from people. I can only give one like to your comment but I hope it somehow gets more prominence.

@@marcuswareham1 is this also why a system supplied by a delta-wound transformer is tolerant of a single ground fault, but not two?

But remember that AC current doesn't flow like water in a hose, from the transformer, into the house, and all the way back again. AC current moves electrons back and forth a short distance in the wire, typically a small fraction of the diameter of a human blood cell, 60 times per second.

Hii want to discuss for the same

You ground it so that your computer case doesn't shock you when you touch it.

@@jash21222How? one of the "neutrals" (ground) is not connected to a load/hot wire unless there is a fault so it will not be carrying any current, you could argue that the capacitive effect could cause a small current to flow, but this would normally be negligible

When the current go's through the neutral and meet the ground at the sub panel it should not go to the ground because the circuit it's not closed between hot and neutral

Copper wire is not a superconductor, IE it has resistance, when a substantial amount of current flows thru even a resistance as low as a few ohms substantial voltage can develop, this is why sub panels have the neutral and grounds separated

No, you don't, find my comment

I was thinking the same. This isn't a bad video but I don't think it explains anything.

No ground wire is needed to complete the circuit. Ground wire only provides another better path for the dangerous leak to get to ground, and hopefully trip the breaker through over current or gfci. Animation doesn't match the condition he is describing, "no ground".

I think the proper spelling would be 'wicked smaaht'

Yep, the key phrase in all of this is "low impedance path" . Amperage is inverse of impedance per Ohms law and you want to jack up the amperage to trigger the overcurrent as quickly as possible

Do you never have an earth supplied to the property? In the UK, we can't take the earth off the nurtral ourselves, it has to be done by the distribution network (this is because of the unlikely buy very dangerous situation that could occur if the supply neutral is broken while being relied on for the earth, if the distribution network earth the supply neutral multiple times on its path then its ok) So we either have the distribution network supplying an earth from the neutral, the distribution network supplying a separate earth, usually from the sheeving of the supply cable, or no earth. Which is when we have to use a rod, we call this a TT system and we have to test it to ensure the impedence is low enough to meet disconnection times.

@@felixmoran1 - We have three wires coming in from the utility company. Two Hot wires and one Neutral/Ground wire. As for the house wiring, we only bond the Neutral and Ground together at the first breaker panel after the power meter. So the neutral wire only carries unbalanced 120 Volt loads. The only time we see current flowing in the ground wire is when we have a fault to ground and that normally trips the breaker of the circuit with the fault. As far as ground rods go, we have on or sometimes two at the home's breaker panel that has the neutral to ground bonded together and there is also a ground rod at the utility pole. I think all these ground rods are there for lightning protection.

​@@felixmoran1PME does not make it safe, it just reduces risks. That is why EV chargers in the UK must to have PEN fault detection or be done as TT i.e. Just with a ground rod and no connection to the grounding of the house. (This is safe ss they are RCD protected and do not rely on high fault current)

@@felixmoran1 Older installations in the UK used TN-S where there was a separate earth and neutral all the way but modern ones are TN-C-S, also called PME where they are common. The difference to the US and some other countries is that the earthing is completely up to the provider so local earth rod is not mandatory. Yes PEN-fault is a problem and in the UK it is worse as it is grounded at one end and not at the center like in the US. There are 400 reported cases of PEN-fault in the UK annually.

Simply put nothing can be gained by connecting it. The whole point is to have a separate ground wire.

There are a lot of different paths it can take. It's going to take the path of least resistance.

@@ElectricianU I’m confused. Did you make the video? The video says it has to go back through the neutral To create a “loop”.

@@ElectricianU why no bonding in SUB-panels Great video, practical explanation. Thank you.

We have a neutral to get 120 volts. Without it you just have 240 volts coming into your service and you will destroy and 120 volt loads because you're feeding it with 240 volts

One that is equal or greater then the cal value of circuits that you will be working on. OSHA mandates that once you take them out of the sealed plastic bag must be tested by a company that specialises in it every 6 months. We were taught to test rubber gloves before each use by rolling up open end several wraps and listen/ check for any air leaks. We use to send out 16 pair of glives to be tested and think it cost around $20 a pair. We had spare 600 & 15,000 volt gloves to use while 1 set was out being tested. Work Safe & wear proper PPE.

Wrong. Very high resistance with the ground path, electrons don't go through a highly resistant path such as Earth when they have a straight shot back to the utility. That, and they are going the long way around, which makes your theory only that, a theory.

@@Rico702Vegas Resistors in parallel . The electrons will flow through both resistances in proportion to the resistance .

​@@Rico702VegasElectricity takes all paths. The share that goes through the ground is very tiny.

You should think it as a voltage loss. There is some voltage loss at the neutral. That is the voltage there is in the ground rod. I'm a well balanced system the current on the neutral is small so the voltage loss is also very small. In any case it can it ve many volts so the current on the ground is small. I'd guess 1% is the best of those.

When I say ground the floor I mean just add grounding rod before I pore the floor

Neutral is grounded at the transformer in any case. Also I think you confused earth wire with the actual earth.

@@okaro6595 Depending on how far away the the TX is, the cable resistance may create a voltage difference.

Do you really need a video for that???