Simple Heat/Oil Bluing Method

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Simple Heat/Oil Bluing Method

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Күн бұрын

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Careful not to use too much heat...This process required between 600-900 degrees of heat that can draw the temper out of certain steels. Also, I would approach with caution if you considering using this method for treating your reloading dies. The process can leave light scaling on the interior of the die, so it is only recommended for parts where tolerances are unimportant. These dies are push through bullet sizer bodies, and no scaling resulted. Approach with caution and practice practice practice before trying it on a gun part. Not recommended for complete firearms, although it could be used if you are careful.
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Пікірлер: 362

@Edgunsuk 6 жыл бұрын

Gunsmith and blacksmith from the UK here, colour change in steels happens around 230c blue is closer to 400c , you loose temper in most carbon steels above 200 C your propane torch will heat metal to 900 c so yes you can make steel parts loose the temper this way.Also the reason you went to far on the top of the item is because heat travels up even in a sold you should of flipped it to make the bottom the same colour . before you argue with me google temperature colour chart in steel .

@314299 13 жыл бұрын

Great video Eric. I've used this bluing method for small parts, and if you want a blacker finish try using used motor oil instead of fresh stuff.

@MrJalowery 4 жыл бұрын

Looks amazing! I've done this on a restoration job only on a few screws and bolts to accent the job. I wasnt able to time it right every time though. I'm working on another now and hopefully I can find some pointers in order to achieve the desired result on demand. To any of my fellow viewers: any and all advice/pointers are welcome and appreciated. Thanks!

@pradumanasher3745 4 жыл бұрын

As a watchsmith, I blue my parts by heating brass filings and then placing said part into the filings for an even finish. If you try this, let me know how you go! Great channel!

@aequitasification 4 жыл бұрын

I'm going to have to try that on some air hardening steel. What temperature is required?

@PhuVet 8 жыл бұрын

try using used oil, the carbon will transfer into the steel and make the purple come out more

@dumptonpark 10 жыл бұрын

My friend Ralph boils old used oil in a big pan then just drops the bits into it and it does a great job. Ralph is old school he is 85 years old but still rebuilding Series Land Rovers and his steam car. Thanks for sharing.

@shotfirer1972 13 жыл бұрын

G'day, I use very well used diesel sump oil. Heated up to a boil in a cast pot, then the parts are set in it for the magical amount of time, and the result is a highly durable, high carbon black finish. It doesn't involve direct heat to the part and the blacker the oil the better. Kinda like we used to do to motorbike chains in the old days to shrink them a bit. Keep those vids coming mate, cheers

@Hunterslife315 Жыл бұрын

Would you ever do that trick with small gun parts like the trigger, springs bolts ect????

@ColeHomestead 12 жыл бұрын

if a simple acetylene torch is used instead of propane, you will also be adding a higher carbon content to the steel for the added bonus of case hardening along with the coloring. I've used acetylene to case harden homemade parts before and although it isn't as thick a layer as bone/leather charcoal case hardening, it works well enough.

@regsparkes6507 10 жыл бұрын

I'm going to try this process on junk steel first to see what I can get before I try my hand on a more critical piece...this is a nice tutorial video, You're proving the old saying " If at first you don't succeed, try, try again .".Thanks Eric.

@1otviii 10 жыл бұрын

The color is caused by oxidation. Different colors for different temperatures. Blue like this normally results in spring steel hardness. If you put the par in an oven where you could control the temperature, you can get repatable exact colors. Tom

@pacman10182 5 жыл бұрын

typically, an oven wont get past brown, you'd need about 600F to get a blue

@pacman10182 4 жыл бұрын

@csknives2140 what?

@lgdy5703 3 жыл бұрын

I know this is an older video and this comment is late, but being a tool maker I use this method especially with boiled linseed oil it gives more of a black Finish but I wipe it on with a rag rather than dunk it. The only thing I would say is on gun parts I imagine the parts would be made of high carbon steel same as what a chisel would be made of to give the gun more wear. As some of you know that when you heat treat a chisel you would quench the red hot metal then temper it off to a straw colour, so if then I wanted to ‘blue it’ I would then heat to a blue(taking past the straw colour as it’s getting hotter) and put it in oil, same as the video, this would then leave the chisel far to soft to work. So be careful on doing this on working parts of your guns. But great method for metal finish👍🏻

@RockfordOrdnance 5 жыл бұрын

Everybody is an expert! He plainly states that he is experimenting! Those that are so knowledgable should start their own channel. I give him credit for trying to expand his knowledge and come up with solutions and new ideas. Its a beautiful finish. Im going to experiment with it as well. Right now working on parkerizing. Would love some advice.

@rickoshea8138 2 жыл бұрын

You could blue a barrel with heat, without harming it, because barrels are never harder than 40 RC. Sizing dies will become pretty with heat blueing, but they are functionally destroyed. Sure, you could use them to resize another 100 cases, before you throw the die away due to its now rough inside surface, making cases stick. Rather than being upset by admonition, research the warnings about soft tempering hard tools. Then decided for yourself.

@henrybraud1156 10 жыл бұрын

Nicely done and good information! The only thing I would do differently is chuck the large punch in a drill motor so as to let it turn at a constant rate..would keep your hand from getting tired too.

@creative_expressionproductions 11 жыл бұрын

Ive done this process on a winchester 1890 pump action .22. i treated the entire gun bit by bit. i had a gas oven big enough to heat the entire barrel at once so the heat was even. I used used car oil. The carbon (black colour) in the dirty oil is also drawn in by the hot metal and aids in hardening the metal and the finish. It looks great and funtions flawlessly still.

@Midnight_Rider96 4 жыл бұрын

Just used this method on a couple non gun parts I made. The cosmetic surface won't be subject to wear or the elements, so I think it should last for quite a while. They look nice too

@chapiit08 11 жыл бұрын

I've tried to do this on handmade parts like triggers and hammers, I just harden the part brittle, re-polish and then draw using this method. The result is a part that has the correct hardness and a nice color at the same time Otherwise it can only be applied to parts where temper is not critical because it's basically a drawing process.

@bilco22 11 жыл бұрын

you typically don't start messing with the temper until about 1200 degrees, that dark blue is only about 550-600, your purple is about 500 and that straw is a little over 400 even with oil quenching the crystalline structure isn't actually being hardened to any point near brittle

@charliewecker 12 жыл бұрын

I just went in the garage for an hour and did this to a handful of my tools. They literally look like I've never used them. Old ass machetes and axe heads....HERE I COME!!! Thanks man this has changed the game.

@cbl0325 9 жыл бұрын

This is an awesome technique. My Lee dies rust real easy this will be a good way to protect them thanks for sharing!!!

@sidekickbob7227 3 жыл бұрын

I wonder how many gun parts who have lost their hardening due to this video? The good old rust blue is so much safer, and it actually gives a good rust prevention surface. On older guns, it would also often be the correct surface treatment.

@Ihatezidiotz 10 жыл бұрын

Just an fyi. any time you heat a hardened tool steel above the "blue" color you are ruining the temper. as long as the piece doesn't need to be hard, its no problem. but if its a tool, such as parts for your reloader, you have softened the piece.

@alexm2833 4 жыл бұрын

You most definitely are changing the temper. The different colors show the different tempers. Blue is typically spring steel hardness straw yellow is knife steel hardness.

@Kyle_gallegher 3 жыл бұрын

Color does not determine temper. Not hot enough to affect temper gun parts a subject to heat regardless and made with that In mind

@RussellChapman99 5 жыл бұрын

There is a channel called Clickspring. He made a bluing box with brass shavings inside. Steel blues at about 250C I think. Heat the brass shavings to that temp, then sit the part you want blued into the box. It is a very temp and colour accurate way of getting the blue oxide finish

@buckaroobonsi555 10 жыл бұрын

I was taught to use used motor. Do most of you guys under stand you heat the part to 500-700 °F then you place it in the used motor oil. Repeat over and over until you get the color and depth you want. Buff the part as needed between steps to get any crusty deposits off. If you want mostly black with out too much fuss you put some copper chunks in the bottom of the pan and powdered graphite to the oil. One cup powdered graphite per gallon of oil. Powdered Graphite is used in Big Rig's and in Farm Equipment maintence. I learned that from a small gunsmith in Germany. Dad was career Army and retired. We spent a lot of time in Europe. My first rifle was a .22 Pellet Rifle that had been under water in the basement of a home in FLorida for a year before it was given to me. I used a combo of Belgian blueing and oil blueing to make her look like new. I once used boiled linseed oil to cooat a trailer hit that I burnished all the rust from. I did not have anything good to keep it from rusting I was at my Grandfathers house. So after I got all the rust off I lightly warmed the metal with a torch just enough to be uncomfortable to touch not to burn me. I used a natural brush and brushed the boiled linseed oil on it. The next day I came back and took it out of the vice and put it on a shelf. The linseed oil kept it from rusting. I would never had tried linseed oil on metal if I had had something else. Not recomending linseed oil on metal either only demonstrating that sometimes desperation or lack of what we want inspires us to try new things and sometime it works out well! LOL.....When things do not work out well guess what? You know know one more way not to do something which is learning all the same. It took Edison some insane number like 10,000 or 20,000 try's to make a marketable light bulb! Someone has said that he said something like " I now know 20,000 ways not to make an incandescent light bulb!" so chin up if you do not get it write the first time!

@forgenorth1444 7 жыл бұрын

I've used this on a pair of pellet molds I forged for an air rifle, but as bladesmith I can tell you this will change temper of any tool or part that is tempered. Use caution on any critical parts that take impact, pressure or wear.

@jayneutron 9 жыл бұрын

I am an apprentice toolmaker. The way i understand it is that you have to get it red hot and slow cool it to remove the hardness. Drawing a heat treated tool to 400-900 F, depending on material used, only removes the brittleness and maintains the Rockwell hardness specs.

@MikeDittmanmachining 9 жыл бұрын

Yes and now. It does take a little bit of the hardness but it tempers it so it is not as brittle. I personally would never use this treatment on dies because it can slightly deform the part but to each their own.

@MikeDittmanmachining 9 жыл бұрын

Yes and no not yes and now.

@jamesharrell4360 5 жыл бұрын

Got to have the CCT chart on the metal type for best estimated results

@rickoshea8138 2 жыл бұрын

Not if the hardness spec was 60 RC to begin with... 40 RC, yes.

@KeeperOfTheOath 13 жыл бұрын

the color it self *IS* the temper. so to the newbie gunsmiths out there, don't use this method on hardened pieces or high pressure barrels. I love the way this finish looks on non-critical items like 1911 frames and slides. if you do this to a semi auto or bolt guns barrel, you will get a Kaboom.

@kevingambrell 10 жыл бұрын

I do screw heads like this but would never consider heat bluing parts like recievers or for that matter loading dies. You will damage the temper on parts taking them to purple or blue. Springs are taken to blue for temper and when you temper a spring your altering its state, that in its self should tell you why big bits are a no go. Great videos by the way.

@mdr8088 13 жыл бұрын

That's pretty cool. I like how they turned out. Don't let idiots bother you. I learned a lot of stuff from you and Ammosmith and a couple others. I appreciate your vids and what your doing.

@miroslavilic197 4 жыл бұрын

Heat travels up... if you want even result hold the part horisontaly..

@pickin4you 10 жыл бұрын

Most metals is OK, but I would be really cautious doing this process with reloading dies. They are tempered, and if heated that high, you will change the temper in the die, and can also change the internal dimensions. Again, this is if the heat is on it too long. 600-900 degrees is way too hot for something that is already hardened. Regular hot bluing with bluing salts is only heated to about 260-285 degrees F.

@TheManFromAlaska 10 жыл бұрын

geoh7777 -- You bet that the interior temperature has gone past 400 deg F. He got the die to a blue to light grey color which is anywhere from 600-750 deg F. A die body is typically around 3/16" thick and I can guarantee that the inside wear surface went far beyond 400 deg F. Also quenching it in oil after heating to this temp will do nothing to bring back the hardness.

@evanator166 9 жыл бұрын

Paul Crissman Heat is what causes the bluing, what Eric did was nitre bluing also called fire or temper bluing all for obvious reasons. The common form of this method involves heating a pot full of nitre salts and letting the part sit in the solution for a bit. The salts don't give the metal its color but aid in consistency and make it easier to do larger parts.

@tartredarrow 6 жыл бұрын

This 100% affects the temper. DO NOT this to anything structural. Also, this isn't a finish.

@camerl2009 13 жыл бұрын

the temper will drop a bit purple/blue will make it about 40hrc but its not lie its a knife or a sear/tigger so it should not matter much

@wcolllins79 10 жыл бұрын

just a saftey tip. dont ever wear gloves with a bench grinder or a drill press. i have been working in fabrication for 15 years , and some of the worst accidents i have seen involved both of these machines and gloves. but i really like this channel. Thank you for youre miliitary service

@KBell119 Жыл бұрын

I do this with all small steel pieces like screwdriver bits and shell holders. Definitely helps hold off the rust.

@soundmapper 10 жыл бұрын

Great video. Do me a favor....never wear gloves while on the wheel. Keep up the good work.

@Arariel3 9 жыл бұрын

And screw or clamp that grinder down. hahaha.. he was making me wince.

@robboat6269 4 жыл бұрын

For a stone. yes no gloves but a wire wheel. Should have gloves. Especially if it a new wheel. Me. id like the little wires stuck in the gloves. Not my hands Loose clothes are the no no.

@tomasalano8486 4 жыл бұрын

99099

@dougiequick1 8 жыл бұрын

BTW anyone that has high performance motorcycles or hot rods with say stainless steel exhaust and hangs out with others with such will notice how oft times pipes can turn so very blue ...what all plays into it I do not know but it gets pretty dramatic...(which some owners just HATE btw.).....personally I am of the "function dictates form" persuasion ...so when people are going for bizarre finishes I have to ask "WHY??" What purpose does it serve? Does it protect metal? Does it reduce glare? What is it's value? When everything has a reason and it all makes sense? THAT is true beauty! IMHO

@bilco22 11 жыл бұрын

you probably have found this out by now, but either heat your part parallel with the ground or if your going to do it as such start towards the bottom of the piece, and pull away from the heat intermittently let the part normalize its temperature or else when as your heating a different section the top is still getting hotter and your losing the color you wanted

@Keegsbruh413 4 жыл бұрын

You 100% lose temper. As soon as the colour starts to change that means your lessening the temper

@Midnight_Rider96 4 жыл бұрын

No, it's not hot enough to harden again. I wouldn't use this method on anything other than cosmetic and parts that don't have critical tolerances. The heat can slightly warp the part. For many parts it won't be noticeable, but I wouldn't use it on a slide. For the slide you should look into caustic bluing with sodium/potassium nitrate, sodium hydroxide and water. Make a solution of the chemicals with water and bring it to a boil then dunk the part. If you value your life don't do it in your wife's kitchen. But you will get superior results. That's how gun makers do it. I think it makes more of a black color than the heat and oil method.

@Midnight_Rider96 4 жыл бұрын

Also, no this is actually how you would temper metal. Tempering is how you get ductility back after hardening, because hardened steel can be brittle without tempering. Hardening is when you take steel to cherry red hot and quench it. The quenching makes it so that carbides remain in solution and don't have time to turn into graphite as the metal cools.

@tedl178 Жыл бұрын

He correct and the darker then color the softer the metal gets...i read a blacksmith book that said...straw is right temper for center punches, dark gold for chisels and blue then dark blue then purple etc.

@BuildNStuff 9 жыл бұрын

Good info, but If you are heating steel enough to change the color then you are probably changing the temper of the heat treat.

@Tehaxis 10 жыл бұрын

I do a lot of oil bluing on a variate of parts. However I don't claim to be an expert in metal finishing. It's really handy for small parts like screws hammers, triggers, front and rear sights, plates, all kinds of smaller items. A kiln is really great if you have one. It gives you an even temperature environment which will help you get that color exactly the way you want it. using a torch can cause temperature spots to show up on your piece depending on the shape, size, thickness of the steel part. Thinner pieces like butt plates loose heat much quicker than say a steel bolt and are easier to "mess up" so to speak. DUNK EM QUICK. To be honest I like the uneven blues and purples look just as much as the even blue or purple look. Just a personal preference. Using a pair of pliers or a vice can also draw away heat from the piece you're trying to oil blue wich can also cause temperature spots. It takes some trial and error to get it just the way you like as with anything. Thank god for wire wheels..

@barnornbk 10 жыл бұрын

Quit knocking yourself. In working in the unknown or unfamiliar there are no "mistakes" ,you learn what to do or what not to do the next time one does it. Keep experimenting ,you are learning and so are we..

@danratsnapnames 13 жыл бұрын

if you used light heating, not so much that it turns the steel a color, and dipped it in gun blue solution, you'll get a better result.

@backyardsounds 13 жыл бұрын

I've actually done this (as by accident actually) and it's all in your flame - you just need a larger flame with the same heat and then it's easier to have a uniform color. like you said, it's all trial and error. Great vid - this topic has been long over due. I think introducing folks to making their own bluing salts is good. I mean, it's just Saltpeter and Lye, right? I need to look into it more.

@MichaelBakowski 12 жыл бұрын

One thing I haven't seen anyone note is that this offers little to sometimes no corrosion resistance unlike regular bluing. For special colors or small parts it's great but people should not be misguided into thinking that this is a magical bluing process and that people doing traditional bluing are just wasting their time.

@ericstanly252 8 жыл бұрын

THANK YOU! I'm restoring a 94 with birch wood Casey products and it's not going to well you just saved me!

@tonytiger75 10 жыл бұрын

I made a new firing pin stop for my 1911 a while back. Blued it using heat from my gas stove and just dropped oil over it in a mason jar lid.

@DEYTONS 10 жыл бұрын

Try using your old motor oil........... Again you will get different results because of the higher amount of dissolved carbon in the old engine oil. Remember don't overheat before quenching or the carbon in the metal part reforms into a different crystalline form. Basically meaning that you will " Temper" the component.outwith its design NOT A GOOD THING ON FIREARMS. ... Great Video........

@abdrewgill9339 8 жыл бұрын

I would do some research on heat treating, quenching and tempering before I did this to a gun part.

@jobejahova 9 жыл бұрын

I've used a similar method on carbon steel swords after heating and hammering to repair (and sharpening or honing), I will heat the blade up and then spray it with WD-40. WD-40 gives it a more iridescent-black shade. I don't use aerosol WD-40, I buy the large can and put it in a spray bottle to mist it on. I would also like to experiment with the same oil used on K&N air filters. After cleaning the air filter, an oil is sprayed on to help the cotton pickup dirt. That oil contains unique chemistry and also dye. How would that react to blueing? I want to find out. Keep in mind, when blueing anything, it is possible to the object can ignite a fire when the oil hits it. Also, it can warp if it is too hot and thin, or the oil is too cold.

@jon07crz 5 жыл бұрын

Yugo 505 did you ever try oil bluing with the KN oil?

@andrewwilson8317 7 жыл бұрын

I notice you don't have grinder bolted down. Neither do I. I have made sockets in my benches out of 2 by 2 box section steel and have matching tendons on my equipment. I can now have grinders,polishers, drills,presses wherever I want them securely located. All different heights and a couple of mobile stands. Best hing I have ever done. Can clear away from bench when not in use and quickly mounted when in use. Wood blanking plugs to fill tendons when not in use. Workshop can be reconfigured to suit whatever job is going on.

@JohnAlderucci Жыл бұрын

Hello Mr Wilson. Can you send me some pics of your grinder mounting system? Thanks!!!

@justinmaxwell1608 6 жыл бұрын

There's a lot of discussion about heat treat and temper below. Some people think they are ruined some not. The bottom line is steel in it's softest annealed form is still much harder than brass. This method does change the temper it is usually brought to a straw color right before the blue appears. The straw colored temper is around 425 degrees f . The blue is 500 plus. The change of the temper in this application should not be a problem. Edge retention on a blade is a very different thing. Bottom line is 1 or 2 points on a brinnel test don't mean shit for forming lubricated brass cases. My 2 cents. Thanks for the video

@rickoshea8138 2 жыл бұрын

Tempering softer than "straw" for a die is silly. Bras is softer than steel, but the grit imbedded into the brass when the case fell onto the rocks on the ground is much harder than steel. Hence, why tungsten carbide insert sizing dies are popular.

@pyro-millie5533 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video, man! I’m starting to get into metal working myself and wanted to try heat-blueing a piece of jewelry I made

@Jesses001 13 жыл бұрын

@thepolarpandabear I know someone who did that with an AK. It changed the temper of the steel and after a few hundred rounds, the rifles was scap. Did work for a little while though, and I guess it worked out for an AK made out of sheet metal.

@andyhb572 4 жыл бұрын

Don't do this to precision parts! Heat bluing with an oil quench is good for cosmetics but it should not be done to precision parts or parts with critical hardness or tempering.

@danratsnapnames 13 жыл бұрын

in my experience, when a steel turns color, it means that you got the steel to hot, and its temper has changed. by doing this, you are making the steel SOFTER by a process of annealing. steels that can be hardened with oil quenching will harden but not to the point of true oil quench hardness, also steels that need carbon to be hardened, will remain SOFT. just my 2 cents.

@atasirudy 4 жыл бұрын

Too*

@shotfirer1972 13 жыл бұрын

G'day, I use the dirtiest sump oil I can find, it makes for a high carbon, very dark durable finish. Thanks, Keep those vids coming!

@deckum23 8 жыл бұрын

clickspring does a lot of bluing using trays that he built for it, I've also seen Larry Potterfield do it in oil in a controlled heat tank.

@macbouncer8525 8 жыл бұрын

+deckum23 Chris (Clickspring) uses brass shavings / swarf to even out the heat transfer to the item being blued, and doesn't get the problem seen here with over heating.

@curtismay8323 8 жыл бұрын

kinda reminds me of seasoning a cast iron skillet.

@andrewwilson8317 7 жыл бұрын

I have had good results with used car engine oil. Maybe the extra carbon in it adding to the colour. Gives a real nice colour. I quench outdoors in the wind to make sure upwind of the smoke!

@pixuma 13 жыл бұрын

I usually just stuck my parts in the toaster on it's highest setting for like 30 minutes. Gets a nice, consistent, VERY deep blue/purple.

@cwshooterssupplyinc 11 жыл бұрын

And the blue was the draw heat which gives the blue color

@SchoologyGames 3 жыл бұрын

Sandpaper will take the take the color right back off so if you get it too hot you can take it off and try again!

@claudiodominguez. Жыл бұрын

I tried everything to get better groups, I heat blued my dies and BAM ! sub 1/4 MOA !

@rush2124u2 9 жыл бұрын

I enjoy watching your videos which I find very informative. We learn and grow through trial and error we evolve and we have to admit our failure and accomplishments If you don’t learn and grow from a negative experience then we should go back to our caves. But it helps to listen to others opions Good work Guys, great videos, good information and gut instincts which mean so much and ya you guys should do more comedy and more sarcasm. I gotsta go am late fo a drive bi and then to da licka stow “liquor store” You have enemies? Good. That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life ― Winston Churchill

@levi743 6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the great tutorial! Searched high and low for a simple bluing method

@KeeperOfTheOath 13 жыл бұрын

@Iraqveteran8888 *shrug* when I said autos and bolt guns I was referring to center fires. rim-fires don't push anywhere near enough pressure to blow out even an annealed steel rifle barrel. I know a guy who still uses a 10/22 barrel that was in a house fire hot enough to melt the receiver slap off. all he did was card the scale off an re-blue with some birchwood casey cold blue, you can't even tell that its been through a fire.

@cody6642 10 жыл бұрын

hey great work man I make custom knifes and I had a customer want a solid black sword slash ax and I discovered through trial and error that u can make it solid black by using burnt oil mixed with new oil bout 75 to 25 and it made it made it black idk if anyone else has done that or that you may know that but it works just let it sit in the oil bath till u figure it has cooled down to a reasonable temp also I had to heat my oil first for the case hardening so just putting that out there

@chief8503 6 жыл бұрын

I think it’s pretty awesome like the old receivers on the old western revolvers and rifles

@KronekDjokich 2 жыл бұрын

The indiscriminate heating of steel parts could very well destroy the heat treatment of the part. This could destroy the part and in the case of gun parts render the firearm unsafe.

@Darkwolfe. 12 жыл бұрын

That is really nice and with 18 dies I am going to have a great time with this. Thanks so much.

@Marvin_McFly 10 жыл бұрын

awesome! will give this one a try

@222varminter 10 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Great video and valuable information! But for convenience and safety you could really bolt your grinder to your bench ^^

@geoh7777 11 жыл бұрын

That's if your 350-400 deg F got all the way to the wear surfaces during the heat-bluing. Since the heating in the vid was relatively quick, that very well may not have happened. One way to tell would be to examine the bore of the die, looking for either white metal or dark metal.

@jones7736 8 жыл бұрын

you can niter blue and get the same colors with a even heating. but this is the same mashed for annealing parts!

@georgetreepwood1119 7 жыл бұрын

OOO nice ! Another fine,honest video ! I'm going to try it in a repro sight...I did this with screws myself when I first started playing with guns 10 years ago and used a cook stove for fire blue screws

@Firepath 11 жыл бұрын

That's right - colour in steel from heat is past any temper temperature

@ralphwatten2426 8 жыл бұрын

Using hot nitrate/nitrite is a way of controlling the heat. Get your straw, your sky blue and your blacks and being able to control the color. Colors come on about 350 degrees I think. Get you some nitre and blue away.

@samuelalley7331 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for actually giving information and explaining everything unlike many other dumbass videos. It's tiring having to weed through so much nonsense and half-assed videos to find something where it is explained. Very much appreciated!👍🙏

@spinesales 13 жыл бұрын

Nice Eric. Looks great. I totally agree with you the trial and error thing.

@kcstott 11 жыл бұрын

Sorry to be a nae sayer but this should only be practiced on non critical parts. Heating any part with a 35RC hardness to over 450 degrees F will draw back the temper to a softer state. heating to 600-900 degrees is very bad. It does have it's applications but a hardened part is not one of them.

@martinrps13 3 жыл бұрын

Looks great! Going to try with my Glock tomorrow and see how it looks.

@yohannschonfelder4880 4 жыл бұрын

Beautiful outcome. You saved my ass

@Arariel3 9 жыл бұрын

Been curious about this. Thanks for the vid!

@marnielarocque9412 6 жыл бұрын

getting metal to desired color blue or purple only brings the metal to 350 -500 degrees, to change hardening you would have to bring metal closer to 1000 degrees. first metal will turn brown, then black, hen purple then dark blue then light blue, then orange, don,t get to orange, once you get to a slight light blue thats enough. I prefer the purple, or dark blue. quench in oil

@rickoshea8138 2 жыл бұрын

True, if the dies are made of high speed steel. If carbon steel, a blue tempered will reduce the RC hardness to 40. From 60.

@aarong2177 10 жыл бұрын

Just blued an ar15 bolt carrier looks beautiful

@rickoshea8138 2 жыл бұрын

If you did that to the bolt you would be looking for trouble.

@BigBeastFromTheEast1 2 жыл бұрын

I learned a lot of things in 7 years 😂🤣

@rogercrier 8 жыл бұрын

Gloves! DON'T wear gloves unless you want to watch your entire hand going round and round! Things won't be blue, they will be red, with loud screaming.

@JDHR35 8 жыл бұрын

I don't understand, what's wrong with wearing gloves? I think I'm being silly, but can you explain?

@MyLonewolf25 8 жыл бұрын

+Just another random person on the internet! They can get tapped in the wheel and there goes your hand

@JDHR35 8 жыл бұрын

MyLonewolf25 Ah, I see. Ok.

@andredebeer2069 7 жыл бұрын

Same with his ring he is still wearing.

@pleasantlakepirate1832 7 жыл бұрын

A wire wheel won't snag those style gloves, And I could stall one of those dept. store bench grinders with my cock.

@billcharlene1450 11 жыл бұрын

Wow! real nice, I myself like to try out different finishing methods. This will surely be something to try, great vid. Thank you for your service as well!

@kenjenkins53 9 жыл бұрын

Keep in mind that doing this is the same as case hardening, might be good thing or bad you can remove the brittleness by heating in a oven at 600 then let slow cool.

@evanator166 9 жыл бұрын

Ken Jenkins No it is not the same as case hardening. What Eric did was a form of nitre bluing also called fire bluing or temper bluing. One uses bone meal with red hot metal in a forge the other only heat and at a much lower temperature commonly nitre salts are used to aid the process.

@milspecmachine 8 жыл бұрын

Oil quenching actually hardens the metal if done properly we actually get around 160 on the Rockwell scale

@gman77gas 8 жыл бұрын

+Milspecmachine Rockwell C only goes up to 63......

@waynestiff8565 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks!! I’m gonna try this on an old lock!

@LumpyMusic 9 жыл бұрын

Blue up a couple of lag bolts and screw that darn grinder into the bench. "This is not an easy process" "You can see the ease in which I did this" OK

@badline8621 5 жыл бұрын

Lol yeah, the first scene he uses it it walks on him. Second scene he only worked one handed cause the other was holding down the grinder!

@TheChandlersaurusRex 12 жыл бұрын

Did you use fresh motor oil or is it ok to use used motor oil? I'm very interested.

@feelfreetohateme551 6 жыл бұрын

Awesome man thanks again

@JDalton 11 жыл бұрын

You can look up in any toolmaker hand book diffrent temps give diffrent color.As long as you dont go over 1000degrese will not weak the metal.For a more even look try soaking the heat in a oven.Then dip in oil.Good video!

@RockBandAce15 12 жыл бұрын

I just got my yugo SKS a couple of days ago, and while i was cleaning the cosmoline off, some of the blueing was stripped away. Does this affect the integrity of the gun at all? i/e...rust, corrosion?

@humansvd3269 3 жыл бұрын

makes it more suseptible to rust but as long as it's oiled or cleaned and stored fine, you're good.