I've never seen anyone use carbon fiber for a print bed before, looks pretty neato!

Me: Ooh that's a nice sound "I'm silent so you can hear the nice sound" Me: Thank you very much XD

For anyone still having issues with this method, if you have a glass plate I recommend putting the plate in the freezer. Prints come off easy 100% of the time. Just make sure the plate cools before putting it in and warms up before using it after, to avoid it cracking

We just spent 5 hours trying to get a 24" print off a rubberized bed on a large format printer. We tried everything, including adding water. After seeing this video I just added a little isopropyl alcohol to it, waited and it was off in 5 minutes! Thank you.

Thank you! I've been trying to remove prints with hulk strength to get prints off the bed.

I attempted this method to assist in freeing my PETG prints from my PEI coated build plate. Unfortunately, it didn't work as displayed in this video. I tried this technique when the bed was heated and fully cooled. Waiting for longer periods of time did not affect the result. However, I did notice that having the liquid on the bed did assist in getting a sharpened putty knife under the edge to pry free the prints. I'm going to continue to use this method for cleaning purposes and improved adhesion for following prints. Thanks for the idea.

This blew my mind! I've only printed one thing on my new christmas present so far, and it was very difficult to get off the bed. Now that I'm starting to do real things that I don't want messed up, I'm so glad I found this. Can't wait to try it!

Just tried it on a part I couldn't remove for hours and it worked in seconds!! Amazing! Thank you so much for posting this!!

This works very well on mid to large size prints, or prints with more flex to them. On smaller very solid pieces it works, but you still need some force to unstick them.

I recently had a 3D-printed object stick to my Anycubic I3 Mega's printer bed. I tried a few things along with a little force. No luck. I tried Christoph's method and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the vid.

I have tried and it works really well. Just after the print ends, no matter what temperature the print bed is. I use a syringe to drip some alcohol 70% along the edge of the print and after several seconds it loses very easy. Thanks a lot!

This was so helpful, thank you! I had always such a hard time getting my prints unstuck, even when freezing it with can duster but this worked like magic.

After accidentally putting a small hole in my index finger this morning (I've been using a knife to remove my 3d plates) I suddenly had the urge to figure out a better way of removing PLA prints from the build plate. Thx! Works great and now I don't have to put my blood into my work...

00:33 I laughed out loud!! Keep making awesome vids!! Trying this on a 48 hour print, hope it works. :-)

I just switched from the textured side of the glass bed that came with my Ender 3 v2 to the plain glass side, and my print was stuck so bad I couldn’t pry it off from any angle. This worked perfectly in SECONDS. Thank you!! No idea why those crackly sounds happen but it sure was satisfying 😂

Hi Christoph! Thank you ever so much for this method! We have danced around our new 3D Robox printer trying to remove our fresh-printed models and had no luck - we broke all of them. And finally! Our first printed 3D object in our hands - unbroken! Really -10 sec - and magic happened. Thank you so much!

I just got my Ender 3 v2, after printing a part so I could put a Raspberry Pi in to the toolbox opening, the part wouldn't separate from the bed. This saved me so much! Can't thank you enough!

Thanks ! I tried with alcohol alone 96% and it also worked, I'm very grateful

this is by far the best 3D printing tip I've found so far

Best advice, my spray bottle was defective but I just daubed it on with a brush, worked a treat

It works very well. PLA was sticking very hard to my Ender bed sheet. I put the mix 50/50 in a small eye glass cleaner spray bottle and shake it before use. A couple of minutes soak time and I grab the parts with some spark plug boot pliers that have rubber tips and the parts pop off. I clean the bed with a plastic razor blade tool that I got from Lee Valley so it doesn't scratch the bed sheet. Works really well. I'm making parts for Covid face shields so my Ender 3 is getting a work out:)

This will be a good justification for a bottle of booze in the lab :D Tried the trick on a porous magnetic pad - the print didn't get off as easily as in the video but still with no damage to the pad. Lost one a couple days ago due to a stuck print. Thanks man!

Thanks. It worked. Still was tough getting the print off the bed, but it was impossible before. I could lift the entire printer by the print. I have a heated aluminum bed and I use a glue stick to get adherence. The alcohol/water mixture melted the glue and I think that helped. I'd like to try the freezer trick mentioned below but my bed is attached with 3 screws that level the bed.

I can’t thank you enough for this. I couldn’t get prints off my CR-10S Pro to save my life, and your trick worked beautifully. Saved me from rage buying a Wham Bam. Thank you thank you!

Christopher, Thank you sir, your method works wonderful. I know have a small former windex spray bottle with your solution by the printer. As soon as the print is done, spray, wait 10 and out the print comes. No more abusing the pallet. Thank you again.

What type of alcohol do you use in your mix?

Thank you!! The instructions that came with the printer were wrong. Your advice saved us

Thanks man, you saved a 2 days print, I didn't have alcohol so I used perfume and it worked.

How thick is your carbon build plate? And where can I get one?

Simply Fantastic, 50% Alcohol + 50% H2O, does the trick for me. My Creality Ender 6 COREXY has very strong bed adhesion, prints great but the toughest part was to eject the prints. This solution works great, there is a cracking sound and in about 10 seconds it comes off super easy. Well done!

this awesome... I for the life of me could not get my print off... then I tried this method... and 10 seconds later... it was off... thanks so much!!!

"I am silent so you can hear the beautiful sound..." The beautiful sound of your German-English ASMR? Just kidding, thank you for the video.

hello Christopher, nice video ! can you please tell me what sort of alcohol did u use ? is it isopropyl or it's the ethanol pure alcohol ?

Well hell. I guess I can put my hammer and chisel away. My next option was to explore explosives. Thanks for the hint! It would have been nice if the manufactures would put that in the user guides.

I had some adhesion problems and I used adhesion Lac spray (3dLAC), and now I get the oposite. Some times its imposible to peel them off

The alcohol evaporates very quickly causing a "Cooling" effect. Works really nicely. Eliminating the "Freezer" cooling.

I printed a beautiful statue on my glass bed as a gift to my friend's birthday. I tried all the ways to remove the print from the build plate but I couldn't. I gifted him the print with the build plate itself and he thought that it was a nice presentation on glass.

Great!! works great with the FLASHFORGE - BUILD SURFACE STICKER! was normally almost impossible to detach Thanks

I just remove the glass from the heated bed as soon as the print is ready and lay it on my desk. The faster cooling down gives the same effect as what you show here. I hear the crackling noise and it pops off the glass on it's own. When I let the glass on the heated bed and let it cool down slowly, it sticks so well, that it brakes out a piece of glass if I am not careful enough. For that (when forgetting to remove the glass after the print), your method could be a great way to avoid breaking the glass plate. I'd like to move to a carbon plate, but I did not find a carbon plate that is not heavily overpriced so far.

Thank you Sir for sharing this with us. This information is a real game changer for me. I have been having a hard time removing one of the items I printed recently. Of the four prints one cracked during my struggle to remove it. The 50/50 solution worked for me in about 20 seconds and I even heard it pop loose. Thank you again for sharing.

Thanks for your advice. Worked well after about 30 secs. PLA object with brim on a LokBuild surface.

Thanks Christoph, this looks like a great idea - easy print removal AND a lovely shiny print bed! I assume this works due to the difference in temperature coefficient of the bed and the plastic printed part (both cool at different rates) which is accelerated by the application of the water alcohol mix. In which case, anything with a cooling effect, such as freeze spray and solvents, would work. I may experiment with different such additives to see which works best. Obviously, certain solvents, although evaporatively cooling, would have a detrimental effect on the printed plastic part and should be avoided - especially as I have a PEI coated glass bed, which could also be damaged.

The item in the example is exactly what I printed and was having trouble removing.. what a small internet world

I was trying to peel my print from glass today and it was sticked like a superglue. And as you mentioned, i broke a tiny bit of glass. Luckily i find your video and peel of with lemon cologne :D Thank you so much have a nice day...

not working for me. even after several minutes

HOLY CRAP IT WORKS. I JUST TRIED IT ON MY TEVO TORNADO! Be it chemistry or witchcraft, I now have a whole bottle of “uncle Chris’s secret sauce” next to my 3D printer. Thanks so much for the video Chris! :)

"I'm silent so you can hear the beautiful sound" hahaha

I was using the scraper and it slipped and cut 2mm deep into my hand lol

Omg, you owe me a Pepsi - laughed way too hard at the whisper ;) thank you very much, great information and humor! ♥

Gonna try this out, shattered my glass build plate today by accident removing a .25 kg print 😢 so hoping to keep the replacement in good condition

I had a test print of a small bird cage with bird inside, about 1”x1 1/2”, that crumbled when I tried to remove it from my Grizzly G0923 printer. The second time around I used, what I thought was, your method. I took 70% isopropanol (alcohol: rubbing) to water in your proportions. Did not work, so I used my Leatherman’s knife and a 6”x1”x1/4” piece of aluminum bar, as a hammer, and was able to safely dislodge it. ⚠️ The term “alcohol” is a broad category including such sub-categories as concentration as available to the hobbyist at are local grocer, pharmacy, home store or hardware store since shipping of more concentrated/professional/scientific chemicals can be problematic. Alcohol is generally available as methylated spirits (primarily methanol: wood alcohol, one carbon), denatured alcohol (ethanol: grain or corn based, two carbons) ⚠️ do not drink this, and rubbing alcohol (isopropanol: 3 carbons with one carbon [methanol group] on a side chain. There are longer, more carbons, alcohols and each has differing properties. So, what alcohol and in what concentration, since that effects the amount of water needed, did you use? Also note that methanol and ethanol as purchased by the consumer are highly flammable, caution ⚠️ around energized equipment!

Thanks for the giggle. :) The alcohol helped.

I have a CR10-S Pro V2 with a stock bed, I have constant issues with print sticking too good to the print bed. I am trying this right now.

"I'm silent so you can hear the nice sound" you just earned a sub XD ha!

You are the man!!! With everything going on I had to use 80 proof vodka but that's A 40% mix and it worked like a charm!

Hi, where did you purchase the carbon plate?

does the build plate have to be cold?

damn! I was panicking, but this tip worked perfectly. thanks mate!

For those of you curious if you read through the comments he answers someone about what kind of alcohol he used and he replied that he used denatured alcohol which can be bought at any hardware store or Walmart.

Omg I destroyed a few prints before I watched this, and I literally had half a print stuck because it broke when I tried to remove it and I couldn't get it off. This saved me so much annoyance, time, and the alcohol spray unhinges it so quickly.

I use a paint scrapper which i sharpened razor sharp on one side only. Then i rounded the edges and removed the sharp edge with a 600 grit sand paper so it wouldnt cut into the surface. So far it's worked for me for both glass and painters tape without damaging any of them. Just go from side to side while sliding it underneath the piece, and then pull up a little, and repeat until it comes off. Barely any force in th up down axis, all the force is mosly parallel to the Y rods so it'd be hard for you tu bend them

Ohhh man!! U saved me a 46 hours print!! Thank You!! This trick works!!

Great suggestion! We 3D print a lot at work. I'm definitely going to be using this tip!

I use an Fr4 plate, it also works just fine for me...

Great idea! I usually just use a razor blade at the corner at prints pop right up, just so I don't have to reapply glue. But for delicate prints, this is genius for those

Thank you! This worked even better than expected. Is this due to capillary action?

Worked perfectly with PLA on aluminum plate on Creality Cr-10S Pro V2!

thank you... I had previously warped my glass pulling off a 6" diameter cylinder. It took a bit more effort than yours but it worked!

I use FR4 printed circuit board plate.

Oh, wow!🤩 I'm gonna try that. Thanks!

Thank You, You saved me and my project

Awesome! Thanks for sharing. Looks for easier than trying to remove with just a spatular.

How to you get your prints to adhere so well in the fist place? Please do tell.

That whisper 😂😂

I'm fairly sure it's capillary action that breaks the bond. Adding alcohol to water reduces the surface tension a lot, so it will wet easier. It should also allow capillary action to occur in smaller spaces than 100% water. Once the solution is wicked underneath the print, it lubricates the print and helps break the bond. Think of it like earthquakes resulting from fracking: fracking fluid lubricates rock that is under pressure, allowing earthquakes (rock moving past rock) to happen easier.

Hi! I'm curious, have you tried Nylon or Carbon Fiber Nylon on your carbon fiber build plate? If yes, how well does nylon adhere to it?

Didn't get the sound but it worked great! Thanks!

Worked perfectly, brilliant. Thanks for sharing.

Great video! Worked very well with PLA on buildtak!

Which alcohol is used by u sir.

My ABS prints always stick too well to the glass plate. I just take away the glass plate with the print when its still hot and put them all under running water. Then it will be able to remove. I guess it's because of the different extension rates between ABS and glass. Will try your way on the next print with 70% alcohol.

For those looking to purchase the carbon fiber plate shown in the video this is an updated link from where he said he purchased it: www.extrudr.eu/en/products/catalogue/karbonplatte_1320/

Is it better to separate the print from the build plate while the plate is still hot or to let it cool first?

This has been very successful for me! Thank you for the video tip!

Thank you so much, my prints used to always get stuck to my glass bed

I would not want to be wetting things. That means getting water trapped that could take a while to dry. BEST to use a flexible magnetic build plate. Just bend the outer edges toward the center, the print will pop off easily!

Thank you, this helped me tremendously. I mixed alcohol based hand disinfectant with water to get roughly 50:50 solution :D readily available in small spray.

Mit Kältesprayvon Kontaktchemie habe ich eine ähnliche Wirkung.

this is really interesting! I'm going to give it a try next time I have a stubborn print stuck to the bed.

Could be a thermal effect, as the alcohol evaporates it cools down the part. Just my guess. I am using a PEI coated aluminum sheet and its the best I have seen so far. As the bed cools down you can hear the cracking sounds then just remove the parts with 0 force!

The carbon plate looks awesome!

Would have been nice to see that method on that last gigantic piece.

I use a scraper and a hammer, the quick blast doesn't really damage my parts and gets it of rather fast

Why does this work? Does it cool and shrink the plastic?

Thanks, does it work, because the fluid evaporated and the evaporation chill shrinks the part more than the build surface due to the expansion coefficient? Regarding the cracking noise i think... Greetings from Thun (also Switzerland ) 😉

This was a real help today. Thank you!

I would like to know exactly what alcohol you use? I am fighting so hard with my printer everytime I need to remove my prints.... Help please.

thank you very much for the tip . very helpful !!

hello friend very grateful for your video, i would like to tell you my experience so you can tell me what i can do to keep working, i have a longer 4lk hot bed printer and my last print got stuck so bad it did even melt with the teflon layer peeling of and leaving holes in the 2 places the print was placed, i asked for a new plate already, in the meantime how do you suggest i can keep working with this bed ? can i place some tape over it to level the floor? thank you again for your help.

i have megnetic pad how there remove object im using tpu filament