At 4:13 "Sophisticated analysis, dynamics, electrical load"... had me going there. A humorist as well as rc plane guru. Thanks for the great videos.

I found this video really informative and straight forward on this topic. Thanks!

The sense of humor on point 😂😂

I appreciate your time and expertise on your videos. Thanks. I an watching your video now. On my E-Flight Twin Otter the props are CCW port side and CW starboard side with separate 20 Amp ESCs. I have replicated this exact setup and motors etc in my 1995 Graupner Partenavia. Going Lipo vs Nicad, and brushless vs original Speed 400 brushed ( can) motors has reduced wing loading of the bigger Partenavia by approx 30% .

Hi Tim thanks for explaining about the twin motor setup for brushless motors , it helped me , as I have thought about upgrading a twin model I built of the BN islander , it has flown a circuit on 400 brushed motors , but was al bit under powered , your video is a nice guide , I've got two identical brushless motors that should work fine, giving plenty of power, thanks again Tim , most enjoyable , from Tony from Bedfordshire England ,

I have 4 dualies, two I made, 2 were rtf. They are my favorite planes. All have counter rotating props so no right thrust angle has to be figured. All use a single battiery and have identical motors. Using two batteries and/or different motors could cause differential thrust as the batteries could discharge at different rates. I don't fly dualies because there is redundancy, but because they have such great flight characteristics, so stable and predictable, if not as acrobatic. I tried to connect 2 motors to 1 ESC; one motor was damaged. Maybe it was defective, as some people have had success, but I'll use 2 ESCs from now on. I know you like to build from scratch, but the LIDL gliders are great airframes for dual motors.

Great Video Tim. I have several twins (Mosquito, PBY and BF110) and its a good idea to have counter rotating props. opposite handed props are quite easy to get hold of these days. Also if a motor fails on a twin unless you have huge rudder it won't counter the thrust difference. The best thing to do is throttle back point the nose down at a fairly steep glide angle and flair just before the ground. I learnt this when my PBY developed a dodgy motor. I look forward to the build.

I've been waiting for a twin engine experiment . Thought it would have counter rotating props .

Great video Tim! I've had a Goldberg Skylark 56 setting around that I've been wondering if I should build as a twin (instructions show how to do that with glow engines) but didn't know how to approach it with electric motors. I'll be really interested to see the next installment of this story.

I did not cut the center wire going to the second ESC. I used only one battery. This installation was in a home design and built F22 with dual 40 mm electric jets. If flew great, with no thrust problems

Only thing you didn’t cover, and I was really hoping you would, is why the wires between the motor and esc(red and black) are switched?

Hey Tim. What is that cute twin motor model you have on the bench? Great video BTW. Is there one for differential control of 2 motors? Thank you. Later…

Very useful ideas 😊

Can I directly solder two esc wire like red-red black-black yellow-yellow

great video. i just bought a 4 motor c 130 and i want to re do the motors. do i use 2 ESC and wire 2 motors to each or do you recommenrd 4 ESCs

Thank you very much for this informative video ! I am building a 2 motor R/C boat and was wondering how to wire everything correctly. Is there a difference for regular brushed motors as this is the type that came with my kit ? (Graupner Key Biscayne )

for a project i am working on, it is required i use 8 motors, I am at the final stage of this project but i believe the left side of the wing is spinning faster than the right side, is there anyway to adjust this?

Hmm. I tried implementing your set up, but I'm having problems: One motor runs crazy fast, and the other motor barely ticks over. I've tried every iteration of components I could think of, but always get the same behavior. I want to default to your set up because it seems intuitively correct to me, but I can't get equal power on each engine. Both engines and both ESCs are identical make/models. Any advice?

Can I hook up 2 motors to one esc and battery and then do the same for a second set of motors to an esc to the same battery?

Great video, I was wondering, when you disconnect the batteries from the ESC is it the same sequence as when connecting them? Or does it matter? Thanks a lot...

hi Tim I watched this video again today and found it helpful, just to ask, should both motors spin in the same direction, I've heard of twin motors spinning in a different direction, ? thanks from Tony from Bedfordshire

I always wondered what manages the correct rpms between both motors. Is it all done by sizing the motors and batteries correctly?

Thanks Tim, is there anything I can do on the radio side to sync up the RPM's. I followed your directions and got both motors to sync up at any throttle level, but after taking my tachometer, one motor has slower RPM than the other. Any ideas what I can do to sync the RPM?

The x fly motor I ordered has all black wires to connect to the esc. There's no direction on how to hook them up. How do I figure out what wires to connect to each other? If you have any suggestions on where I can get the info id really appreciate it.

can someone please clarify: can i add an extension cord to the battery side of the EXC? Lets say i cant do that, would i damage some part permanently by doing so? Thank you and safe flying!

Can you help me I trying to setup rc helicopter tail motor with 2 esc 2 motors and one rx

😊

Mr McKay,, I need to lengthen the wire on my motor to the ESC,, what gauge wire can I use?

I don't understand why it's preferable to add extension wires on the motor side of the ESC rather than on the battery side. All the timing pulses, or whatever, occur on the motor side. On the battery side, it's pure DC with the capacitors on the ESC helping to hold the voltage steady, or helping to filter out any high frequency voltage variations. Seems to me it would be preferable to add extensions on the battery side. Before I became aware of these discussions, I added perhaps 18" of extension wire on the battery side of the ESC on a large delta-wing "flying sled" made from cheap insulating foam. I had no issues with the ESC/motor combination. It seemed to work fine. I'm not saying that your explanation is wrong or anything, I'm only saying I do not understand it.

I believe your "2 battery redundancy" which is your objective does not work if one battery dies, and it is the ESC/BATTERY PAIR with the good ESC / receiver wire. The other "good " battery will not run the Rx and servos due to the cut red or center ESC wire. An automatic switcher switch could save the plane in this case. I am nit sure how to build or buy one of these.