NOTE: I did not have to DO ANY BRAKE BLEEDING! ....I just hooked everything up and started pumping....engine, running, engine ,off...several times and the pedal came right up! Some say take it to the dealer and spend $100's of dollars...I say ...I never had to do that. That's all I did. Most of the time this works. Then after you do this, then maybe try to bleed the brakes per wheel...to make sure all the air bubbles are gone ;)

This saved my life as well did EVERYTHING but the abs now after replacing the abs the pedal is spot on

Bro thank you so much you saved my family. My mom lost her job because ee didnt have the money to fix her breaks(120) grom joe bidens econemy both frong and back brake were toast anyhow it took me 4 days to figure out why the car was bleeding we were getting fluid out of every bleeder screw but the peddle still was just sinking yo the floor, i put all the tires on and drove it down my back road and engaged my abs system by smashing the breaks came bsck in the garage started from the back and bled them all and it worked perfectly fine thank you so much

Thanks Nat, I know this is an old Video, but it Helped me out a LOT!... Thumbs Up!

Excellent vide, sir. We've been having the same issue on a early 90's Honda Accord. Never thought to look at the ABS pump but tried just about everything else. Good tip about how to check the master cylinder too. Thanks for taking time to make the video! Much appreciated.

Great video! I have THE EXACT same issue on my '99 Suburban.

Thanks for the information. I just did a complete brake overhaul on my 2009 F250 Super Duty truck. I bled the brakes using a vacuum pump until I was sure there was no air in the system. I had a hard brake pedal when the engine was off. However, after starting it, the pedal went about 1/2 down to the floor. I had brakes but they were not the same as before I did the brake job. They felt spongy and would seem to go to the floor when holding the pedal down. I knew that my ABS pump was ok because the chances of it failing just because I did a brake job was remote. So following your diagnosis and reading the comments below, I pulled the 40 amp fuse for the ABS pump. As soon as I did that, my brakes were fine. I test drove the truck for a short distance with the ABS light on and my brakes were perfect. I came back home, reinstalled the fuse and the ABS light went out and my brakes are now perfect. Basically, it seems like all I had to do was to cycle the ABS pump and that fixed my problem.

Abs module was the culprit. Spot on perfect solution. Thank you so much for posting this and helping us all through your trial and errors.

Thanks for the video! I've been a professional for over 40 years, I've never replaced a brake pump! It makes perfect sense. That will be my next move!

One of the things that can take out the ABS and the calipers is failure to flush out the brake system with compatible brake fluid and then top off the master cylinder to the max mark. The pistons in these devices are made from steel that can and will rust out if maintenance is not done. The DOT 3/4 conventional and synthetic brake fluid is hydroscopic and will readily absorb moisture. Not only does that moisture rust out the caliper/slave pistons but the braking is much reduced by the moisture (since water boils (steam) at 212 degrees at sea level and a gas (steam) can be compressed (spongy feel at pedal.) This should be done once a year to reduce the chance of rust in the system and maintain the seal softeners in the system which DEPLETE in one year. (Professional racecar mechanics change out the brake fluid before every race!) You will immediately notice the stopping power increase after changing out the brake fluid. Once the debris, dirt, rust is eliminated and your clear plastic line runs clear on all bleeder valves, try to clean the inside of your master cylinder reservoir with a soft LINT FREE cloth to restore its translucency. Some people wonder why the master cylinder brake fluid is dark after a length of time. This is caused by dirt entering the system every time the brakes are applied. While there is a seal-boot on the slave cylinder for drum brakes or seals on the calipers, these seals do not prevent ALL dirt from entering the hydraulic system. Dirt is the enemy of hydraulic systems! The final bleeding will be done with fresh brake fluid and all dirt will be eliminated. Plan on using 1.5 quarts to do this procedure correctly. And be sure to read the very small fine print on every brake fluid can. You may need a magnifying glass to read it! It's that small! They all say once the can is opened dispose of the remainder responsibly. Reason? Once opened it's now contaminated with moisture from the air. And never mix standard brake fluid with synthetic blake fluid they are not miscible or compatible! Use what the vehicle manufacture says to use. Special procedures are needed to properly bleed down ABS systems and each vehicle can be different on the sequence for wheel gets bled first, last and in between so it is prudent to check the factory manual. I hope this helps someone. UTI graduate AOS Automobile, Diesel & Industrial Technology, ASE Master Technician - Automobile, ASE Master Technician Medium/Heavy Truck.

A really good video, especially the method used to rule out the master cylinder. I screwed in a m11 bolt into one of the master cylinder terminals and the pedals went rock hard after a few pumps. Life saving video!!

I’m have the same soft pedal issue with my dodge. Changed the brake pads in the front because they were bad then it snow ball effect started. Changed the ritors, calipers, flex hoses and master brake cylinder. Still having the soft pedal issue. Makes sense that it’s the ABS module. Thanks for the video!!

Hey TVWXMAN32, Dr Motor here. I wanted to thank you for your information. I did find a used unit in PA, had it shipped to me. Installed it yesterday, did a little bleeding all is good! You were right on point!Thank you my brother!

Nathan, you confirmed my suspicions. I'm working on a 2001 Silverado pedal goes to the floor. Replaced the rt front leaking brake hose both master to ABS unit leaking brake lines, bleed the system three different ways. Still no pedal. Your experience compliments mine. Never had a issue with ABS controllers. TILL NOW.

Got me too! I guess I should have done a vid on this deal a few years ago...got a new one off ebay, 425. Bled brakes, BEST BRAKES AND ABS IN THE WORLD!!!!!

Same sinking brake pedal to the floor at traffic lights experience on 2009 i30 at 160000 klms. No leaks, no swollen hoses and no air in lines. Same as you, I changed the master cylinder and bled, no different. Your video made me suspect of the ABS pump has an internal leak but Hyundai quoted $10k for OEM part which would be a mechanical write off. Sought ABS from the wreckers at $120 delivered, (bugger to swap out due to location) and bled system again. Success! The pedal now firm and hard as a rock at the lights. Pro tip, after first bleed, drive the car on grass and brake hard to cycle the ABS pump 5 or 6 times to purge any micro airbubbles and then bleed again. FD series i30 responds well to old school gravity bleeding with no fancy vacuum, pressure or OBD2 scan tool auto bleeds needed with the above trick. ABS pump is not VIN coded to the ECU so no need for any other OBD2 intervention orher than mechanical replacement. I hope this helps guys as it sure kept me up late at nights seeking answers

i have the same provlem you get an i did not no what to do seeing your video help i change the master cyl to an bleed the brakes GREAT VIDEO !!!!!!!!

I am a professional mechanic with 33 years on the job . I ran into the same problem today on a 99 f150 . After putting 4 master cylinders on it and going thru half a gallon of fluid . I arrived at the same conclusion . I have seen over 100 bad abs units before , but this problem is a first for me . I am glad that it is a common ford problem . Now I just have to find another unit for my customer . Thanks for the video - that truck was kicking my butt .

This video saved my life lol I've done everything but that to my f150

Thank you so much. Saved me lot of time and money.

I am thrilled that you solved the mystery. It's on one I am facing on the abs light along with brake light staying on even when I replaced the left front wheel sensor. I erased all the codes with scanner, turned engine on and lights went out. But later I drove off and in 5 secs both lights came on. Initial scan at a transmission shop found trouble with both, wheel sensor and abs pump failure. Now I will re-scan for abs codes, but I am aware the abs pump will need replacement. The odd thing You mentioned was, that after throwing the (junkyard) abs pump, you didn't bother to bleed the brakes? Its a rule of thumb, when Ever, a brake line is opened, it needs to be bled, bcuz air gets in. I fear soon you'll be right back underneath. Another amazing thing is, what are the chances of getting a used abs unit with identical part number! And then for $40? Lol.. Down here the junkyard wants $100+ .. smh.

Great video. I’m glad I found this. Struggling with my 2011 grand Cherokee and then racking my brains out to figure out what the hell is wrong after I did everything you did. Thanks a lot bye take care

You are a legend for taking the time and effort to make this video 😎. I did not know the could go bad like that, I used to have a 1999 Discovery which did the same thing and never found out what the problem was!

I was confused with my brake system same as yours,finally i know now what to change,Thank you so much

1993 Isuzu Trooper. This is exactly my issue. Brake pedal goes almost to the floor before firmly engaging. Had master cylinder replaced twice (one leaked), had brake booster replaced twice (one aftermarket leaked on arrival). The mechanic said he did not know what the problem was, so after $1000 limped home with the same problem. After viewing your video, it appears that I might have the ABS problem. I get in the car and the brake pedal feels normal, and only slightly goes down. Turn on the engine and immediately the pedal goes almost to the floor before engaging. Also, while driving, I will pump the brakes a little before stopping, and I hear a hissing sound. I need a better brake mechanic. Thanks for the video. Thumbs up!

Thanks TVWXman32 ... This is exactly the problem I'm having and will definately look at replacing the ABS Control Module ...

GOD BLESS YOU! This is awesome!

I am facing same issue... Break padel is sinking once ABS is triggered(Its very rare in my car to actually trigger ABS). But once its start sinking then I need to stop the car , then start the ignition (Dont Start the Engine), now just pump the Brake to make it hard and then start the Engine.. Its perfectly working as expected. I have tried this at least 10+ time and working fine :)

Yes sir, I know this video is years old but thanks for it. I’ve had this problem for years and have just lived with it. Now that it seems to be getting worse I will try this fix. Thanks again

Thanks for making this video. I had the same problem with a 2004 Expedition. After slamming on the brakes in heavy MD traffic, my brake petal just went to the floor. I got towed home since there is no way you can drive this in heavy traffic. I put on a new master cylinder and bled the brakes...but still had the same problem. After watching your video, I searched out the part at a junkyard...since brand new the ABS pump/valves and ABS electronic controller portion add up to $1,900 from Ford...not including labor. I haven't been to a junkyard for 30 years - but it was worth the trip to pick up the entire ABS assembly for $50. It is 3 bolts and quickly cutting several brake lines - in and out in 10 minutes if you plan correctly. You are 100% correct in that you have to match up all the numbers on the two portions of the ABS block. Like your story, I had no ABS light on my dash when having the problem, but after installation of the junkyard ABS block, I get the ABS light and the code of "VIN Mismatch." The only way to get rid of this, as I understand it, is to have a dealer reset this...since cheap readers cannot get into the computer code of this ABS controller. Here's how I solved it...I believed that my problem was with the ABS valves/pump - so I went back under the hood and quickly swapped out the ABS electronic controller (black box) with only the 3 torx screws and the large plug. There is room to do this without taking anything else apart or re-bleeding the brakes...takes 5 minutes. Anyway, this is how I used your video to keep my old Expedition running for $150 (master cylinder, fluid, junkyard ABS) versus a $3,000 dealer charge. Thanks again, and I hope this is helpful to someone else with this same problem.

Thanks for posting this. Almost textbook with the problem I had with a 2001 Escape. I guess I have some work ahead for me. Cheers!

Thank you Sir, this video helped me solve the problem!

Thanks buddy.thats info I needed!

Thank you very, very, much! Your fix worked perfect. Now how do I put back all the hair I pulled out? GREAT VIDEO!!!!

I have a severe sinking brake pedal with drastically reduced stopping power on a 2005 GMC Sierra I recently purchased. Given past ABS WSS and Modulator problems, I pulled the ABS fuse and tried braking again. PERFECT BRAKING!!! So, disabling ABS by pulling the fuse is a major troubleshooting step. ABS modulators are very expensive and so are the controllers. I've had ABS disabled on my 1995 S10 for over 100,000 miles. The ABS modulator would have cost half the value of the truck! The S10 was having momentary total loss of braking, which theoretically should not happen. So much for theory.

The black rubber caps you see below the brake line connections are the LPA's (low pressure accumulators). This is where fluid goes during ABS event. Pull those caps off and put a straightened out paper clip in the hole and pump pedal. If they push out of the valve as the pedal sinks the ABS unit is the issue. Sometimes if you pump the pedal multiple times very quick you can get a good pedal because the LPA's will fill up and give good pedal. Spring pushes the piston/fluid back out in the system. Hope this helps!

Thanks. Ive bled them 3 times even though i never opened them. ive never had to deal with ABS or the twist compressing rear calipers before . i should have known though. the ABS light was on. i figured it had air in it somehow though. thanks for the video.

Thanks for vdo I got the same problem on 07 Mazda 3s after replaced abs unit it back on the road again, Thanks

Ohh man Wish I had found this video sooner. I have 95’ 4Runner 4x4 4 wheel ABS (uncommon for these particular vehicles) and man I’ve replaced dam near the entire brake system already and it seemed worked for a bit but yet again my pedal is sinking down! Almost purposely drove this thing off a cliff after $500+bucks into the brake system alone. I’m definitely going for the ABS module now. pray for me haha

I have a 1997 Ford Explorer Limited, 5.0 liter. Same symptoms. Brake pedal hard as a rock with engine off. Brake pedal to the floor with engine on. I searched and studied for days and while Nathan's fix may be exactly what you need, I want to say that my informal search came up with this guess: 20% of issues are ABS (bad device) related and 80% are "air-in-system" related. I bled and bled and bled the system until I fixed my problem and now all is well with my vehicle. 2 quarts of fluid and a grumpy wife who sat in the driver's seat and did the pump-and-hold technique. It may be that a mechanic could have done it much quicker with a special tool and special software on a scan tool, but I am too cheap for that. Thanks, Nathan. I would have gone with your suggestion if bleeding did not work. By the way, there is a youtube video out there where the mechanic used gallons of fluid......

I had the exact same symptoms. For some reason I changed the ABS module first, still had a sinking pedal. I then changed the master cylinder, problem fixed. I replaced my original ABS module and luckily I can return the used EBay purchase. A friend/mechanic told me it was the master cylinder. I should have believed him.

This video was spot on on in the frustrations i went through haha - I have an ABS on order for a 2017 Audi A6 with only 55000 miles on it! I ordered it simply by how similar he described his process and frustration - I already installed a new master btw so hopefully this will fix the issue - it’s been a few months . One weird thing to note is that the pedal feel would be “ok” for a few days after bleeding and activating the abs pump. during wet weather it was really bad! And it’s not always consistent- around town it felt decent but drive on the highway for a bit and get off a highway exit and surprise, I would have to pump them a bit to hold pressure- and it’s true there is a lot of spotty information on it - everything says master cylinder… great video!

Same thing happened to me, 2003 e450 super duty, soft spongy brakes, especially at a stop light they hit the floor, brakes sounded like brake pad grinding when coming to a stop at slow speeds, replaced hydro booster, master cyl, pads, rotors, calipers, bled the brakes.... still doing the same thing . . . in the end, it was the ABS module which had triggered no ABS warning light. I watched several videos first which all said master cylinder causes soft brakes...but so will the ABS :) Thank you and good look!

Wow. I hope this is the answer to my brake problem. I'll try that. Thanks for the video.

My wife's Kia Sorento does the same thing after the mechanic replaced the master cylinder. New ABS module runs $1200! I found If I go 20-25 mph on a dirt road and slam on the brakes several time and activate the ABS, the problem will go away for several weeks before reemerging. Then it's back to the dirt road.

Man thank you for this video I have have been buying parts , busting knuckles and cursing , I'm going to pick up one ... It seems I have the same issues ... Wish me luck

Thank you. I’ve gone through 4 big bottles of break fluid, and 2 master cylinders trying to figure this out.

Great video , thanks for posting .

Same problem on my 2005 Ford Focus. Brakes got like this straight after one ABS event. Then went away on its own after some time. Now 1 yr later, just happened again after an ABS event! See Ford/Mazda had a pending recall for this issue in the mid 2000s...

People, always check for leaks first. A leak will give the same symptom he had. Especially if you live where salt is used on the roads or where you have heavy amounts of moisture. The lines can rust anywhere and leaks sometimes are hard to find.

thanks for posting this helped me alot i have the same issue on my dodge ram 1500

awesome!! I went through 2 Master Cylinders on my 2004 Dodge Dakota before I tried this. Thank you!

Thankyou,I have the same problem,replaced master cylinder,now going to try abs module.Been searching for definitive proof of the problem.My best to you.nick

I know a trick that turns off the low fuel warning (lol) Thanks for the video. I have been turning wrenches for 25 years and every so often I learn something new! Thank you!

The solenoids inside the ABS unit can become stuck open and reroute the fluid back to the master cylinder resulting in moderate to low breaking. They can also stick close resulting in a hard pedal also with medium to low braking. The best fix is to replace it.

I have a 1992 f250 and same problems. I replaced both rear drum cylinders and bled all four wheels starting with the furthest one and the breaks got better but I steal have a soft pedal. Now I’m thanking abs or R-abs, I’m going to try to bleed the abs before I buy one! 🤞🏻hope bleeding it works!

Having this issue now bout to test the abs pump and if that is what it is changing it out. Thus video has helped. Thank you sir

Loosen up the caliper bleeder screw when installing new brake pads. Abs module valves are not designed to handle the back pressure when pushing back a caliper piston without releasing the bleeder screw.

the new (use) abs module needs to be reprogrammed after install it??

All I have to say is great video did all the steps you said and it was 100% abs pump 45bucks later from my local salvage yard different pump installed brakes work great thank you

Process of elimination........ Yeah tell me about it. New front brake pads. Took off the master again, did a bench bleed. I had to use a screwdriver against my chest with one hand and hold the master with the other hand. It takes all of my strength to push in the rod. Then I bled the rear brakes with a vacuum. Then all new parts for the rear drum brakes. It took 10 days just to get all the parts. What a job. Use copper wire to hold it up in place for the hold down springs. Finally finished. And the pedal still goes all the way to the floor! ARGGGG!

That was informative, Good trouble shooting. My brakes will be normal after 2 or 3 pumps - need to be quick in an emergency!!! I need the car for this week, then it be fixed when I get the $$$. ‘02 Audi A4 3L. - That looked like a 2-3 hour job??? I’ve always felt ABS is a necessary evil.

- The sinking feeling started when i replaced a used ABS as the original one was leaking. - Next i replaced the master pump but i didnt help. - Today i went to RMW who specializes in brakes and the owner's son took the car for some hard driving and did many emergency brakings and my pedal is hard again. What happened was that air was forced out from the ABS module......... Nissan Cefiro A32 2.0G 1999

Found this video... and it is describing my situation to a T.... I bleed the breaks 5+ times.. changed out the Master Cylinder... all that good stuff... pedal still sinking.... had 2 shops look at it 1 shop pointing at the master cylinder the other shop was a mobile mechanic that suggested there might be air in the ABS..... this is convincing me that I need to go ahead and find me a new module.

@Nathan Rohrbough. Hi Nathan. My grandson's 2003 Blazer LS needed the rear axle bearings & seals, Fixed that & the brakes worked fine on the way to the garage where we performed the work. I called him, he picked it up & went home. He sent a txt an hour later to tell me his brakes went out. I got a ride to look at it & although there wasn't any fluid leaking on the driveway, I started looking real close around by the proportioning valve & master cylinder area. The Blazer is originally from Ontario, Canada. So I have no clue who it was that replaced all the brake lines but whomever it was, they/he/she just decided, instead of removing all the original line's. all that was done was they clipped the ends off & ran new lines along side of the old lines. So I already found the leak. One of the old line had been rubbing along side the new line. That was why the ABS Warning Light was on for the past 3 week, which I was told. I can already see 2 other lines that I should just replace because they also look bad. This takes care of the ''No Brakes Issue''. Now instead of letting him & the guy who's gonna buy it go the cheap route, I'm going to replace the emergency/parking Brake's so there's no more surprises further down the road. These are actually able to stop this vehicle while driving, if the brakes fail. I just wanted to leave this comment so anyone who is reading this, if you notice that the Emergency Brakes are shot, get whatever it takes to get them operational. Also if you,or if you have children or grandchildren who's vehicle has had the ABS Warning Light On, like all the time, now you can explain why it's good to mention it to someone who knows a little bit more about cars & trucks because the brakes could have went out while he was driving on the freeway, while on the way to his girlfriends, which is 34 miles away in Detroit. Great video by the way...

I have a 98 lumina pedal goes to the floor unless you stomp on it fast and hard. the abs and master cylinder are integrated I don’t see any way to bypass master cylinder or vice versa I guess I’ll check all abs fuses and relays next. Any help or constructive comments?

Thanks for sharing! Nice expy too :). I'm having a similar problem w/ my jeep and I didn't even open the brake system and no leaks so I figured it had to be some kind of valve failure somewhere in the ABS or master cylinder. I'm willing to bet it's the same issue. The only concern I have after something like this is it says you need a tech II scanner or whatever to manually control the ABS valves to bleed the system. I don't know exactly how the valves operate, but I would suggest taking it into an area where you can get ABS to kick in to make sure it works properly.

thank you for the video, having this exact problem with a 2005 BM TROUBLE U x5

I have same exact problem and thanks to you kind sir I know what I have to do now..

I was telling my wife yesterday that I am about to destroy my Tahoe. I've replaced every possible brake part except the ABS. I hope this does it!

yeeeees it's fucking work I just swapped from other Hyundai I have and is great I love you my brother you save me a lot headed and money God bless you ✌

Thank you very much!!!

Yes I had the same problem with a 2008 ranger . just about pulled my hair out. Got a used abs pump and it was bad also. Got a replacement and worked fine. What a pita.

Wow, excellent video. Great feeling to solve. I'm stumped with a problem like this right now on a MINI Cooper, that popped up immediately after doing the pads/rotors and repairing a displaced boot on the RR caliper. The pedal is now just like the video - even with bleeding all brakes multiple times using both pressure bleeder and two-man method, AND bleeding the ABS module using dealer technician software. It makes no difference. Pedal can be made stiff when car is off but is soft and sinks almost to the floor when running. Could doing that brake work cause master cylinder or ABS module to break?? It can't be possibly be air in the line, we bled so many times; we used 4-5 bottles. Anyone have any ideas??

Very interesting i always heard abs wont do that only master or leak. I have seen this issue on many vehicles and i had never seen the root cause

Good information thanks

bro. you might be my savior. 2015 Burban, changed master cyl, shop is telling me i have a bad vacuum pump i figured give it a shot, doesn't make sense to me but this sure does. I am def going to try this before the pump!

Apparently this is a common Ford issue (Ford has a lot of those). I had the same issue with a Ford F350 recently. No way to stiffen up the pedal.

I had the same issue on a 2001 FORD ClubWagon. $800 from the dealer! My local wrecking yard only charged me $25 for a good used one.

‘08 Expedition. Same issue. Replaced master cylinder, rotors, and pads which seemed to have helped but proved to be a band-aid. Took it to a local shop who swore it was a bad master cylinder. They tested the replaced MC and found it was good. No ABS units anywhere in the country and no ETA for replacement! Found a used one that I will put on and hope that I don’t need a special tool to bleed the unit.

Thank you very much sir and God bless you and your family I have same problem on my 05 chrysler town country i change everything brake pads master cylinder I even changed brake booster nothing worked the ABS unit that's the only thing I haven't replaced and I'm very sure after I watch you video the ABS is the problem . Once again thank you sir

would it be air in the abs pump somehow? Factory or dealer have special ways or equipment to do abs bleed.

Great video. I think I have the same problem in 2003 Ford Focus. Made hard stop on Freeway and then pedal almost to the floor. Just replaced MC about 6 months ago. Can be bad, but should last longer than 6 month. You mention that you re-worked the brake lines going to ABS " Blocking off the master cylinder" to check if MC was still good and determine it was the ABS pump. How did you actually do that? The two brake lines that go into my MC both go to the ABS pump. How do I block off the MC to confirm hard brake pedal and good MC

Same thing to mine...I replaced the booster and master cylinder but it didn't work...then I thought it may be d abs modulator...and thanks to your video,now I'm sure its d abs module..

Thank you for this video!

I'm about to try this fix too. After having my brakes go out and nearly falling off a mountain, then 3 trips to a brake shop, new calipers, rotors, master cylinder, and the softness returns after a few days, I REAAAALLY hope this works.

Something like that happened to me some time ago after replacing pads and rotors. I went to a gravel road and actuated the ABS several times. I dont know how, but i had introduced air on the pump, and it was a bitch to bleed. But it worked, stiffer pedal after actuating it and bleeding. I did it a couple more times (actuate ABS + bleed) and eventually it got stiff as a rock.

I’m having the same issue. In fact I have all the parts this morning to put on! Pads, rotors, calipers! I don’t know exactly what you mean about rerouting the line but when my nephew finally gets up I will have him watch your video to show me. Lol. I have poured so much money into this truck, we already figured it was the abs but wanted to make sure it wasn’t something else first. “Hoping” Thanks for the video!

I've been through several brakes and rotors and drums on my bronco and it didnt help. I've put new cylinders and calipers on it, I put 2 different boosters on and 3 master cylinders with the last one being a straight up junkyard unit and nothing changed. The abs unit has to be the issue, I've been fighting and pondering on this issue for the 7 years I've owned this truck and its relieving to see a video that confirms my theory

Thank you for this video. We have a 2012 Mazda5. Brake pedal went soft after having to make a hard stop. Replaced brake master cylinder. Nope. Turns out it was the ABS pump. Guess who made the ABS pump used in the Mazda5? Yup, it's Ford. When you pull the part out to replace it, the Ford logo is on the back side. Ford has a big problem here with these modules, and people are getting hurt. So even if you don't own a Ford, this problem can be found in any brand that Ford is the parent company of, or has its fingers in.

Thank you for your help

I have a 2008 Citroen C5 saloon car .. brakes were good . I checked the pads and replaced them front and back .. decided to suck out the old brake fluid for nice new fluid . Vacuum bled the brakes .. Super top pedal . decided to go for a short test drive to bed in the new brake pads and the brake pedal goes slowly to the floor . Resealed the brake master cylinder . Still the same top pedal until the engine is started then that sinking pedal . Bought an ABS bleed / scan tool Foxwell NT 639 pro . eventually got my 77 year old head around the bleed process. Not going to say it cured the sinking pedal BUT things are looking better . I can stop the car reasonably safely now . I will put a few miles on the new pads all around and then make a judgement if the sinking pedal has been sorted . An interesting development when driving .. applying the brakes quite firmly and the car slows / reduce the pedal pressure and there is a brief marked increase in the braking . Almost as if pressing hard on the pedal causes something to limit the brake pressure , which then, as the pedal pressure is released the limiting action goes and there is a brief / momentary increase in the braking performance . I am a retire 77 year old EX Donnington GT championship winner . I am convinced that the ABS unit is playing silly buggers . But being old school Mechanic I have nill experiences on cars with ABS and wheel sensors . I am seriously contemplating by passing the ABS unit .richardwallinger squiggle gmail point com

ABS systems have all the same problems as non ABS systems, so laymen should be self-conscious enough to NOT treat ABS superstitiously. ABS systems ALSO have one additional potential problem that non-ABS systems do not have: namely the ABS modulator itself. It is very similar to a master cylinder and, like a master cylinder, can get bubbles in it and then must be bled. BUT bleeding the ABS unit requires special software allowing the mechanic to open each individual line separately - which is normally impossible. SO: if you are having symptoms similar to bubbles in the master cylinder, but you have already bled or replaced the master cylinder, then your next suspect is the ABS modulator. Factory trained mechanics rarely see this, and are trained to look elsewhere (ahem! [master cylinder]). So you may have to force your factory trained tech to read up in it and learn how to download the software and put it to good use.

Thank you for this extremely informative video. My brakes work fine until this snow storm tonight, where suddenly I had this happen. Once I parked on dry driveway the brakes seemed to work again but it feels a bit like it did an hour earlier when I was driving on snow. Last summer a mechanic replaced the ABS controllers. The warranty is 1 year or 12,000 miles. Both of which I am well under. Is this ABS controller what is making this spongy brake issue? If it is then the mechanic will replace it for free. Or is it something else you are referring to. Thank you.

Thanks a lot

Thanks. Lots of good information and advice.

Instead of changing ABS module, did try bleeding the ABS module first? I have some videos where air pocket was struck in abs module.

Thanks mate, I was about to burn my car. you have saved my life. XD

Great job, well done good sir,,,, cheers....

Thank you I think I had the same problem on a 2008 Ford Edge going to try that out👍🙏