Zermatt is an incredible ski and snowboard resort. The sixth largest in the world according to Ski Magazine. But if you go, what can you expect in terms of mountain and terrain layout? And what part of the town should you stay in?
GETTING THERE
If you fly, you'll likely land in Zurich or Geneva. Each of those airports has a train station where you can hop on a train to Zermatt, though at least one transfer is required. Still, it's extremely convenient. If you drive from the airport to Zermatt, you'll have to take a car train at Realp, and the traffic can get bad on weekend afternoons, so try to get to the car train as early as possible. Otherwise, it could add an hour or more to your drive. You'll also have to park your car at Täsch and take a train for the last 15 minutes because cars are not allowed in Zermatt. The best parking garage at Täsch is the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn, which is at the train station. You can reserve your parking space in advance on their website.
LAYOUT
One way to approach the mountain layout is to divide the mountain into four sections: (1) the Sunnegga side, (2) Gornergrat, (3) the Glacier Paradise side, and (4) the Italian side, which is actually the separate ski resort of Cervino, Italy.
GLACIER PARADISE
The Matterhorn Express gondola is the most direct way up this side, which has glaciers at the summit, plenty of intermediate skiing, a terrain park, and close up views of the Matterhorn. After taking the Matterhorn Express gondola, you access the summit by taking the Glacier Paradise rail car. This is the highest point in Europe accessible by rail car. From there, you can ski or snowboard back to Zermatt, or access Cervino. The Glacier Paradise side of the mountain has great beginner train at the summit when there is sufficient snow, but is generally intermediate with occasional advanced, steeper terrain.
THE TOWN OF ZERMATT
Zermatt is a decent sized town. And there are only three ways up the mountain. The Matterhorn Express gondola for the Glacier Paradise side, the Gornergrat railway for Gornergrat, and the funicular for Sunnegga. The funicular and Gornergrat railway are relatively close to each other in the center of Zermatt. The Matterhorn Express gondola is approximately a 15 minute walk from the center. If you don't stay within walking distance of these two areas, you may have to take a bus, a taxi or hotel shuttle in the morning. Or walk for a long time.
ITALIAN SIDE
Cervino is accessible from the top of the Glacier Paradise side. You will need a separate lift ticket for Cervino, which you can buy at any Zermatt ticket location or in Cervino. This is true even if you have the Ikon Pass, which only includes Zermatt. The border is sometimes closed, so take advantage when it's open. Although the slope to access Cervino is steep, the rest of Cervino is the most ideal terrain for beginners. There are great long rolling slopes that are not too steep. And you can have pasta and coffee in Italy!
THE SUNNEGGA SIDE
Sunnegga arguably has the most advanced terrain at Zermatt. You can find decent tree skiing, extremely steep slopes, and open above-tree line skiing. And of course, like the rest of Zermatt, plenty of dining options on the mountain.
GORNERGRAT
Gornergrat provides an on-mountain hotel accommodation at the top of the Gornergrat railway, along with an observatory. It's the next best option for beginners and intermediates after the Italian side. But the terrain becomes noticeably more difficult as you head closer to Sunnegga. The train does take quite a bit of time to ascend the mountain, so be aware of that.