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Slab Climbing

  Рет қаралды 22,885

VIDEORACLES

VIDEORACLES

Күн бұрын

Slab Climbing Technique for Rock Climbing and Bouldering
rockclimb.video
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Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum information in a concise way that is easy to understand and assimilate. For that reason most chapters are built on the knowledge acquired in previous ones (e.g., Rope Basics → Top-Roping → Lead Climbing → Sport Climbing → Trad. Climbing).
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Rock climbing is fun but there is an element of risk. In some situations if you are not careful, the chances of serious injury or death are very real. A safety oriented mindset is essential.
The right attitude includes not thinking that just by watching videos and reading articles you will become a safe and experienced climber. Experience comes with practice. Practice means making occasional mistakes and learning from them.
We believe qualified in-person training should be the main way of learning and progressing in rock climbing. A good mentor, guide or teacher will make learning as safe as it can be, by assessing your level and every situation.
Our videos are meant to inform and entertain. Although our videos can be very helpful, they are not meant to replace in-person teaching by a qualified professional, nor they are meant to replace reading and understanding the instructions and manuals of rock climbing equipment-which we strongly advise you to do. (Manufacturers recommendations occasionally change, and it is a good idea to stay updated by visiting their websites.)
Have fun and be safe out there!

Пікірлер: 34
@fazolenaostro7818
@fazolenaostro7818 2 ай бұрын
Thank you again for the video, these are very helpful tips. I have been occasionally climbing for last two years, and since then my progress was not that much significant. I was climbing mostly in a gym in a slightly overhang terrain. I did not fully realize how much I can trust a smear, and also did not realize how much I should try to push with my feets. I knew it, but never really did that. This year I have been climbing with friends on some sandstone slabs and I really like it. There I realized that you really have to learn to trust your feet. So a reminder for me and for beginners like me, because there is never enough of this: really focus on efficiently using your feet, learn how to put most of your weight on them, play with your balance, try to shift your center of gravity above your feet you stand on. Learn with a experience that you can trust your feet even on a small sloopy holds or slabs. Try to focus on pushing with your feets, try to use the smallest amount of hand pull as possible. I think that slabs are great for this - just because there are only small or no good handholds. I found that easier routes, slabs and traverses comfortably enough bellow your limit are fine to train efficient footwork and balance. Let the feet to do the job of pushing and ascending! ;-)
@FreshClipMedia
@FreshClipMedia 3 жыл бұрын
Super under-rated channel. Really good quality content as opposed to the same rehashed "top 10 climbing tips" esque videos. Keep up the great work man!
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@Crewmaac2
@Crewmaac2 2 жыл бұрын
This is what I struggled on in Yosemite this weekend! I need to practice this. Hips out is difficult to do when you've always been told to keep them in...Thank you for this!
@bumckfszful
@bumckfszful 2 жыл бұрын
It is interesting as from physics point of view, the area of the sole that comes in friction with the rock does not really matter, all that matters is how hard can you press your feet into the wall. And putting force into the rock is significantly easier when you do it with the whole upper part of the sole rather than just the toe.
@alexkalug
@alexkalug Жыл бұрын
That's not the point of getting bigger surface area, in fact, it's quite the opposite. Although friction does not depend on the surface area, the shear stress does. As soon as it is above the shoe material's threshold, small rubber particles will detach from your shoe, and you will slip.
@giorgiobalestrieri1431
@giorgiobalestrieri1431 Жыл бұрын
another aspect to this is the direction of the force you are applying. As you lean into the wall, you are increasing the force component parallel to the rock, and decreasing the force component orthogonal to it. As you decrease the latter, you lose friction. That's why, together with reduced contact surface, you're more likely to slip off if you lean into the wall. This is all great in theory, but I still struggle a lot to trust my feel on runout slabs.
@brutalctg7654
@brutalctg7654 Жыл бұрын
How does the area of the sole thats in contact with the rock not matter? I always thought that it does, genuine question by the way
@alexkalug
@alexkalug Жыл бұрын
@@brutalctg7654 please see Wikipedia article en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friction?wprov=sfla1, section "Laws of dry friction. Friction force itself does not depend on the area, only on load. However if the area is too small the same friction force will be spread among smaller area, hence the shear stress will be higher, and it might be too much for the material of the sole, and a tiny layer of rubber might peel off (you see that layer as a black mark on a rock) so slipping will happen.
@alexkalug
@alexkalug Жыл бұрын
@@brutalctg7654 I hope I've answered your question)
@ricardobecerril1783
@ricardobecerril1783 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much ! I’ve been trying to say this for ever and you said it so perfectly
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your comment Ricardo! Here's Roddy's reply: Thanks! That's really nice to hear!
@yourshitsweakx100
@yourshitsweakx100 3 жыл бұрын
Slab are scary
@EricForney-uz4iz
@EricForney-uz4iz 6 ай бұрын
Good Tips and clearly explained 👌. Hips Over Heals and Nose Over Toes.
@claudioizzo7189
@claudioizzo7189 3 жыл бұрын
Excellent videos. Best I have seen so far.
@frankblangeard8865
@frankblangeard8865 Жыл бұрын
"And I can stand on almost verticle rock that way' 3:00. Climbers often use the word 'vertical' to mean steep.
@beratung.davidenkel2370
@beratung.davidenkel2370 Жыл бұрын
Great Vid, so far the best I have seen for that topic. thanks a lot!
@rubenbaiocco6256
@rubenbaiocco6256 Жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot, man. I finally got what "friction" means!
@vlaaady
@vlaaady 2 жыл бұрын
Great video, short and very visual!!
@Your_dads_account
@Your_dads_account 3 жыл бұрын
I wish I had seen this video before you top roped me on 'California Girls' last Friday, LOL
@rwATR_USN
@rwATR_USN 3 жыл бұрын
I needed this! Thank you!
@mgunthe
@mgunthe 2 жыл бұрын
Any suggestions on taking lead falls on slab? Ie. techniques to come off the rock above your protection to help you minimize the possibility of cheese grading down the face?
@videoracles
@videoracles 2 жыл бұрын
Roddy's reply: Hi Max, Run backwards!!! Unfortunately, falling on slab is a bumpy and sometimes injurious experience. Best to down-climb when unsure of the move, and try to find another way. If you do go for a ride, try to relax, stay loose, and stay upright. Best, Roddy
@curvenut
@curvenut 3 жыл бұрын
how do you known the rubber is going to stick or not to th rock by looking the surface of the rock ?
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 жыл бұрын
Did you see our video on footwork? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/atuVmth53tvDYok.html
@ayeeniko
@ayeeniko 2 жыл бұрын
Michael Bluth teaches you slab climbing
@jeanpaulooopsn5976
@jeanpaulooopsn5976 3 жыл бұрын
So soft shoes are the best? I am having a hard time to smear with my katana lace...
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 жыл бұрын
Here is Roddy's reply: The Katana is an aggressive, downturned shoe designed for overhanging terrain. Definitely not ideal for slab! Yes, generally soft shoes are nice for slab, though some climbers prefer a stiff shoe for edging. Depends how much the slab (and your own preferred technique) lends itself to smearing vs. edging. Certainly you'll have more success with a flat shoe rather than down-turned!
@jeanpaulooopsn5976
@jeanpaulooopsn5976 3 жыл бұрын
@@videoracles thanks!
@Alessandromarangoni123
@Alessandromarangoni123 3 жыл бұрын
Never tried before
@miguelayala3374
@miguelayala3374 2 жыл бұрын
*tells you how to do it* *doesn't do it once*
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