Slice Engineering Copperhead Guide - 3D printing up to 450 degrees

Рет қаралды 145,473

4 жыл бұрын

My Seckit SK-GO is destined to receive high end 3D printer parts, the latest being this new Copperhead hit end from Slice Engineering. It’s rated for up to 450 degrees C, so I had to purchase some ridiculously expensive PEEK filament to test it properly.
Overall, this is a quality product, but comes at significant expense. It’s really only going to be viable if you have specific requirements such as 3D printing in PEEK or ULTEM. Hopefully I have a print project in the future that can benefit from this.
The Copperhead hot end, PEEK filament and Dimifix adhesive were all purchased with my own money. All opnions expressed are my own.
Purchase the Slice Engineering Copperhead hot end: www.sliceengineering.com/prod...
Select a heat break, hot block and heat sink to suit your printer. You’ll also potentially need a heater cartridge, thermistor, fan, etc depending on what you want to keep from your existing setup.
The PEEK I tested: www.esun3d.net/products/282.html
Purchase Dimifix adhesive stick: www.x3d.com.au/store/product/...
Marlin PID autotune reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303....
RepRap PID tune reference: duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#...
PEEK material reference: tractus3d.com/materials/peek
Models featured in this video:
Calibration cube: www.thingiverse.com/thing:127...
Stepper gear: www.thingiverse.com/thing:292...
Parametric Herringbone Gear Set: www.thingiverse.com/thing:24071
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Get Quality Resins from 3D Printers Online. 5% off storewide for Teaching Tech subscribers [Code: tech5]
3dprintersonline.com.au/
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech

Пікірлер: 303

@goddamnmaddog2024 4 жыл бұрын

"the damage wasn't that bad, because it looked like a snowflake" Wow! You, Sir, are the person with the best coping mechanisms for stress and disappointment I know!

@TeachingTech 4 жыл бұрын

Since I picked an already damaged bed I didn't mind. If it was my normal bed, that would have been a different story.

@Mobile_Dom Жыл бұрын

thats a lot of copium right there

@philchia4764 4 жыл бұрын

Make sure you put the PEEK in a SUPER drybox! 20% or less it is super hygroscopic. Was doing ventilator prototype parts in PEEK until we've had a failure. Next project is ECMO. Material shrinkage is wonderfully predictable with the DuPont materials.

@markthompson5983 3 жыл бұрын

Damn I can't get mine lower than 25%

@heinzhaupthaar5590 2 жыл бұрын

@@markthompson5983 Just use an inert gas, it's way easier and rather cheap.

@prongATO Жыл бұрын

I thought it looked it was boiling off some steam on the manual extrusion test.

@RomanoPRODUCTION 4 жыл бұрын

Very fine 400°C video, I love watching you at speed x1.5 you sound more fluent and the vampire smile is tremendous. Thank you Michael 🤩🤩🤩

@linkah 4 жыл бұрын

I love your videos, appreciate all the hard work you do, and really respect your mission to help educate and inform people. I'd love to work with one of these but I've yet to install my Himera after preordering it a year ago. My printers are all in some sort of disrepair and I just don't have the space to work on them so I live vicariously through you, thank you again!

@leaftye 4 жыл бұрын

What a timely video! I was just looking at the Mosquito and that's how I found out about the Copperhead, and here we are.

@Masso1973 3 жыл бұрын

You’re probably going to use this for automotive applications, Michael, this is why I got into 3D printing in the first place. I’m working towards these types of materials. There will come a time when tinkering on an upgrade for my cars I will need something weird and bespoke and a PEEK print will solve it, I’m sure of it. Enjoyed your video on your bespoke air box 👍

@genericaccount9222 4 жыл бұрын

Damn, you’d expect for $250 they would at least wind the spool right.

@TeachingTech 4 жыл бұрын

I had to unwind half of it and rewind by hand much tighter.

@LukasDubeda 4 жыл бұрын

For that type of filament, the manufacturer expects you to have your own winding mechanism for your uber-expensive printer. This is not a hobby filament you just slap on your Prusa and go.

@derektran9404 3 жыл бұрын

@@LukasDubeda For that type of money, I'd at least expect them to wind it correctly if my 15$ spool of PLA is found better.

@avgvstvs96 3 жыл бұрын

@@LukasDubeda No, thats no excuse. Selling filament on a roll implies the filament is wound with quality. For that price they should wind it with the same quality as Prusament. No professional 3D printing people wind their own filament.

@FAB1150 3 жыл бұрын

@@LukasDubeda you still need it not to tangle while you're using that expensive winding mechanism though, that's not really an excuse

@ameliabuns4058 4 жыл бұрын

I wish PEEK was cheaper that little purge probably cost you 8$ :D this is like the caviar/truffle of 3d printing.

@henry67278 4 жыл бұрын

It should get cheaper as 3d printers become more common and ht 3d printers also become more common

@KiR_3d 4 жыл бұрын

It's for the commercial prints usually. So the clients pays for this (in a normal situation).

@_Everyone__ 4 жыл бұрын

8$ is nothing compared to the time wasted.

@FreeOfFantasy 4 жыл бұрын

@@henry67278 It certainly will however PEEK is expensive as hell, the kg granulate already costs 41$ directly in China if you take 1000 kg. PA12 is like 4$/kg granulate. And making a filament is also a lot harder in PEEK.

@KaimasterXD 4 жыл бұрын

@@henry67278 It still will be an expensive material and harder to use than eg PLA. Even for 1/10th of the current price it is not cheap. I still use normal PLA for most of my prints, PETG when it needs to handle higher temps or is loaded continuously. I think it is more likely we will see a material with similar properties but at a lower cost and also easier to print.

@SeanTaffert 3 жыл бұрын

Michael, great video on practical application of advanced plastics on what are considered "home/hobby" machines! Nice to see that people are pushing the boundaries of what was previously on available as industrial use only. I propose you look at using the PEEK for something either very tough (like marine boat parts, or bus/train applications) or needs to be subjected to repeated sterilizations (like medical/dental equipment, surgical tooling, food contact, etc...) ...of course there is always printing a small rocket to launch in LOE....but I digress.

@rajkumarukkuturi7115 4 жыл бұрын

Hi, Based on my experience PEEK and Ultem stick very good on >glass applied with glue stick or another best option is to invest in a carbon fibre tile as build plate. >Keep the bed temperature to 120C and if available chamber temp to 90C. ( you can still print peek without build chamber only upto 50mm height) >Keep the nozzle temperature to 440C for better layer adhesion. >Auto bed leveling don't work when printing at high temperatures. >always print with .6mm or above nozzle for best results. >First layer height always set to .35mm or above.

@spookydonkey2195 4 жыл бұрын

Super good video! I’m excited to see a project with that material

@SanderRave 3 жыл бұрын

Some comments on the PEEK extrusion; PEEK and PEI are practically nephews in the same family, your glue stick won't prevent your model from adhering to your bed. Also processing temperatures of both thermoplastics is in the same range, so it's an accident waiting to happen. Might try a glass bed with glue stick thermal expansion after printing should make it easy to release. Another concern, Both PEI and PEEK are highly hydroscopic, based on your first results you were well prepared or lucky. Best quality printing after drying. Keep up the good work! In the past we did tooling part experiments using ULTEM, for thermoforming, up to prototyping injection moulding and metal working. Did I mention inherent flame retardancy of both PEEK and PEI? FR might be a topic to highlight one time, as many makers use printed parts as electronics housings in a domestic environment. Just a thought...

@ricklynch 4 жыл бұрын

Aerospace machinist here. I used to machine peek at work quite often. Using 4 axis CNC control setups. It's a very stable material to machine and it's completely electrically isolated. Very expensive though! I have a setup piece in my Machinist toolbox still.

@ImolaS3 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Micheal, at work I designed a Peek printer and it works great. To get good quality prints you really need the print volume enclosed and a stable internal temperature of around 250C. We used a hot air gun controlled via a solid-state relay - might make a nice project for you :)

@cyberlaurent2101 3 жыл бұрын

Congratulations for your Renault support ! Thanks for this instructive vidéo.

@tacoterito22 4 жыл бұрын

Love when you put your mistakes to, its refreshing!!! good video!!

@milaanpatel4997 3 жыл бұрын

I am really looking forward for your experiments on 3D printing PEEK. Its a widely used material in High Vacuum applications, as a low temperature substitute of ceramics. If some how this thing works, it has great potential in Fusion and Aerospace application. I am currently using 3D printed ABS (sometimes nylon) components for my plasma experiments and you cant imagine how much PEEK components woulds help me. It may seem expensive for hobby work, but for industry it is pretty cheap substitute compared to ceramics and machined SS. Great work .....!!

@chalky3320 4 жыл бұрын

As always a fantastic review and quality video content thanks Mike

@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071 3 жыл бұрын

Very good work. PEEK is very interesting and we may look into it our self. We mainly print ABS and adding Nylon to our line soon. But PEEK would be a great addition once our enclosure product hit's the market and takes off to be further explored. PEEK for sure on RC car's will be a great solution for a lot of their Community due to the fact I have see plenty of melted gears due to the heavy acceleration they endure on those parts.

@4funrc11 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the heads up. 👍 Definitely only for specialized, specific applications. 😃

@iz5269 2 жыл бұрын

Haha "Internal torque" I love it when you insert cold jokes in your videos!

@certified-forklifter 4 жыл бұрын

just 5 seconds in, i knew it would become expensive xD great video! :D enjoy weekend.

@DavidMarko-ot8kw 9 ай бұрын

I noticed you wear Infiniti shirts. I looked for, finally found and had to travel from Phoenix, AZ to Jacksonville, FL to get what I wanted. I got an infiniti Q70S V8 5.6 liter engine at 440hp. It's a little rare as the "S" models are harder to find and the V8 5.6 is also a hard find. Not to mention that I wanted a Black exterior and cream colored interior seat and the 16 speaker system which has speakers built into the headrest. Sorry for the off topic as I found this video to do some research on the Mosquito and similar which I have installed on a Voron 0.1 build with a Bondtech LGX extruder. It's a challenging configuration as I did not find any predesigned fan shrouds for the Bondtech/Mosquito combo but I designed my own that works well. I've just finished the build which was complicated. As you know it's not only the build but it's a firmware install and configure, a printer.cfg file with stepper motor specs, motor direction, etc. Plus it's a Raspberry install with Klipper, Moonraker, and I decided on Mainsail. Then it's a set up on a slicer, I am using the Prusa Slicer instead of my traditional Cura. I haven't gotten my first print yet as just minutes ago I completed the toolhead and fan shroud print. I configured the E-steps by adjusting the printer.cfg file and tested 100mm of measured filament. First print coming soon. You always have great content so thanks.

@MarinusMakesStuff 4 жыл бұрын

Imagine being able to print your own oldschool hotend with PEEK, but then doing an improved version of for example a J-head :)

@TeachingTech 4 жыл бұрын

I used to have a peek hot end on my Solidoodle. This brought back memories.

@Lucas_sGarage 3 жыл бұрын

@@TeachingTech Michael pls pls do it print a hole headsink with peek Mabey for low temp filaments 🤔🤔

@JasperJanssen 3 жыл бұрын

My first printer was a Printrbot Simple Beta. That had a refined peek hot end. And overall it was a pos.

@MarinusMakesStuff 3 жыл бұрын

@@JasperJanssen The PEEKhotends that I played with also performed quite well. And it's easy to machine! :) Maybe printing it and then further machining it would be an awesome combination to make impossible PEEK heatbreaks with ventilation holes etc.

@JasperJanssen 3 жыл бұрын

@@MarinusMakesStuff the hot end was pretty good, it was the rest of that machine that was so incredibly shit. Seriously, blue painters tape on a plywood bed. The plywood construction wasn’t great compared to what we have now (or even the original Prusa Mendel i3, which was happening a few years later IIRC), but that unheated (and tiny) wobbly bed kicked my ass.

@skaltura 4 жыл бұрын

Clone hotend is shiny, so it reflects -> Thermal camera won't work on it.

@SliceEngineering 3 жыл бұрын

Great observation! Before we thermal image anything, we paint all the surfaces the same matte black color.

@falkhen232 3 жыл бұрын

@@SliceEngineering You're better off with a brushed or media blasted surface than matte black, my experience painted surfaces tend to hold heat a lot longer, by reducing air contact from the dissipating surface.

@SliceEngineering 3 жыл бұрын

@@falkhen232 Thanks for the suggestion! We do surface prep in advance to make sure adhesion is uniform and that we get repeatable results from one sample to the next. Paint is relatively easy, fast, and cheap to apply to multiple types of parts, making it easier to compare "apples to apples".

@nathantoews152 3 жыл бұрын

@@SliceEngineering Linus tech tips fried a computer by trying to see what would happen if he plastic dipped all the parts. Paint is the same idea. Heat can't escape and air can't contact the parts.

@SliceEngineering 3 жыл бұрын

@@nathantoews152 the paint is just for thermal imaging, not for normal operation of the printer.

@monkeymanstones1 4 жыл бұрын

I wish I was aware of this hot end before the donation cycle expired, I would have purchased 3. Finally! Someone backing up my statements which have almost always instead resulted in insults, reactions filled with rage or over emphasizing the idea that I'm stupid wherever I say or write: "Your hot end and nozzle in addition to your bed will expand at printing temperatures, so turn them up to your intended printing temperature before you level it." Most people have gone out of their way to attack me for saying as much. It's nice to finally have some backing as your video provided me! Thank you!

@xtdaniels1988x 4 жыл бұрын

I’ve never seen or heard anyone say anything other than to level at temp. You must be dealing with some hills have eyes crazies or sft. You don’t need that kinda negativity in ya life.

@monkeymanstones1 4 жыл бұрын

@@xtdaniels1988x I certainly don't appreciate such negativity, but on KZfaq and Thingiverse it's a common response by those wanting a feeling of power. It's the action of children and occasionally older adults. It's easily ignored, but I do wish there was something to indicate such text is or is not negative so I could skip over it instead.

@MrKnoppersesser 4 жыл бұрын

Tryed to print peek at an internship. You are very lucky it went so smoothly. Very lucky.

@neur303 3 жыл бұрын

Probably speaks for the hotend 🤔

@KnowBuddiesLP 4 жыл бұрын

Just picked up microswiss to replace an issue stock hot end, this does look much more stylish, but as I print only pla no need for this myself, but very cool to know it's out there and what it can do! Thanks!

@iRiselyTech 3 жыл бұрын

Hey Michael, Do you think thermal paste used in the same way, on the heatbreak, nozzle, thermistor and heater would benefit a standard 3d printer and increase reliability / temperature tolerances?

@Mr_Pewpy_But-Whole 4 жыл бұрын

finally peek ! i think peek is best with heated chamber and kapton tape. also you need to bake the parts afterward to increase strength

@zhongluehu1159 3 жыл бұрын

I really like this video! I also made a PEEK 3D printer based on Ender 3, the nozzle is from the Dyze Design. From my experience, the bed temperature does not need to be that high, I typically set to 70 C and use some paste to help PEEK adhere. Also glass build plate seems outperforms PEI sheet, which is very flat and easier to clean after use.

@Aaron-fx5zi 2 жыл бұрын

I’m in the process of converting my ender 3 for peek. Do you have an email I can contact you with?

@justy1337 4 жыл бұрын

I have been waiting for another vid since the last one.

@phillipstearns7258 4 жыл бұрын

Love that smile at the end.

@t3cker254 4 жыл бұрын

What brand's fan do they use? I ordered now 4 or 5 pseudo silent ones from different brands. Noctua isnt an option at all due to the lower airflow

@AlexJoneses 3 жыл бұрын

On our machines, we use expendable and expensive build sheets for this type of filaments, that can't be used twice. And if you take off the part and it brings the sheet with it, that means that the part is too cool. You have to take off the part when it is roughly 100-200 degrees celcius from the sheet, as it will have a much weaker bond then, and also printing a raft is probably the best idea.

@alexteichner9988 3 жыл бұрын

So which hotend would you recommend for high temps: this, or the microswiss you have on your ender 5? Currently doing an Ender 5 upgrade myself, and I'd like to be able to print both low temp and high temp materials. I haven't committed to a hotend yet, since there's many different options. Thanks!

@MrKnoppersesser 4 жыл бұрын

I've been waiting for this. 😅

@MyLonewolf25 3 жыл бұрын

I would not use any hardened steel nozzles past 300c as that’s into tempering ranges which will soften the hardness.

@cavemansmancave9025 3 жыл бұрын

PEEK, especially carbon filled PEEK is very wear resistant and so is good for some bearing applications. In such applications, a small amount of material could be very useful. Thanks, John

@Wodpuncher001 3 жыл бұрын

I printet arround 1kg in PEI and PEKK Carbon Super awesome stuff but it is a must to keep it as dry as possible. Luckily the printer (Minifactory Ultra) had a heated filament chamber that dryed everything to 0% humidity

@shubhamshekhar1831 4 жыл бұрын

HELLO, i'm totally new to 3d printing and due to your videos about it i'm assembling one, i don't have all the parts now but ive done testing that it works great using pronterface, the issue i'm having is no display, display light comes on but nothing afterward and also no sd card detected.msg shown in pronterface

@kevinm3751 4 жыл бұрын

Do you know if this can be modified for the Hemera?

@mathewphillips4185 4 жыл бұрын

Okay what would you recommend for a bed for printing with PEEK.

@DoRC 4 жыл бұрын

The e3d heatsink is shiny. Thermal imaging is the same is regular imaging. Shiny surfaces will reflect the ir light from around them. It's almost certain that the e3d temp was wrong because of this. You need to paint a part of it flat or matte black to get an accurate reading.

@ragevenom50 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Michael How does the copperhead compare to the original musquito hotend?

@GurlNextDoor150 4 жыл бұрын

I also did the kickstarter on this but wanted to put it on my cr10 s5. Has anyone done that? I want to use the slice heater catridge and thermistor and fan I got that are 12v.s Should I just splcie the cables together? Or try to add molex connectors? Looking for any guide.

@WhiteStripesWS6 3 жыл бұрын

I guess up until now I thought PEEK needed to be printed in a heated chamber. I haven't seen the previous vids on this SK-GO, do you have it in an enclosure at all?

@jaymejias 4 жыл бұрын

Hi I have 2 Creality CR 10 Max, I would like to modified one of them from 450mm on the X axis to 900mm. Mechanically I have the know how, but my question is can the machine parameter be modified? By the way your channel is awsome.

@fozbstudios 3 жыл бұрын

How does this compare to the volcano ? Does it allow easier printing with larger nozzles

@acarus3 3 жыл бұрын

Did the instructions say to put thermal paste on the heat break threads that screw into the hot block? It seems wrong as you don't want heat conducting off the hot block into the heat break.

@waikryder6633 2 жыл бұрын

do you have a video on how to change the thermistor and hot end settings via pronterface?

@paxmortum 4 жыл бұрын

great video again :) the only thing I´m wondering about, is the use of thermal paste from heatblock to the heatbreak ... I always thought we want to have the most bad heat creep out from of the heater block up to the heatsink as ever possible ? am I wrong ? I ever used thermal paste from heatblock to nozzle => good, heatbreak to heatsink => great but never ever from heatblock to the heatbreak

@michaels3003 3 жыл бұрын

The S.E. online instructions recommend using the paste on the threads as well.

@AndrewAHayes 3 жыл бұрын

Is there a recommended surface by the manufacturer for this filament?

@markploeger8624 3 жыл бұрын

Why is there thermal paste on both ends of the heat break? Isn't the point of the heat break to *prevent* heat transfer from the hot side to the cold side? Seems like thermal paste would be counter productive here.

@GoranMilici 3 жыл бұрын

Have you heard of Dyze hotend and thought about doing a comparisons? I just got mine cooperhead but I also ordered Dyze. Most people haven't heard about that but Tom did a review on it. The 24v 500c sells for about 85 us dollars or the wattercooled version around 124. Very interested in doing some comparison between the 2. I ordered some Polylite PC, pc-fr, pc-pbt. They only print at 270 but I'll try and get more high grade filament.

@lvxleather 4 жыл бұрын

I have machined quite a bit of peek for marine components, and gripper fingers on robotics that operate in more extreme conditions.

@hanswurstusbrachialus5213 4 жыл бұрын

Why thermal compound on the heatbreak threads? I think thats not necessary or correct.

@jhonnylacksville6765 4 жыл бұрын

You PEEKed my interest

@neur303 3 жыл бұрын

How did you clean your nozzle afterwards?

@timmturner 4 жыл бұрын

Personally I would use ultem since it's similar and much less expensive, unless the part absolutely needs the extended temperature range peek provides over ultem.

@brad.portelli 2 жыл бұрын

lets hope the peek prices come down over time, as just purchased a Bondtech LGX Shortcut Mosquito setup for new voron/hypercube hybrid im making, and id love to be able to print some exotics :P

@Exstaz 4 жыл бұрын

+10C Sean to be a common factor. Everyone I know need to boat temps around 10c even in a mosquito.

@Bynming 4 жыл бұрын

Are you sure the hot end didn't simply melt the PEI?

@Tedlasman 4 жыл бұрын

Moar peek experiments plis. Enclosing, insulating chamber, heating chamber, dealing with heat etc.

@Angelo_Aus 4 жыл бұрын

Things you can print with your cautiously acquired filament ? Maybe jewellery 😬 As always, .... love your videos 👍

@jchristensen2022 4 жыл бұрын

Interesting material and hotend. I think I'll pass with those setup costs. Keep up the good work.

@zaidinh 4 жыл бұрын

PEEK printing is recommended in a heated enclosure with temps around 100 deg Celsius

@sp00nesis 4 жыл бұрын

Peek vs Bridge Nylon!! Maybe do a collaboration with CNC Kitchen for the testing part. (*edit, I was thinking mainly the mechanical properties, as I realize that heat and chemical are right there in the specs)

@TheRattleSnake3145 2 жыл бұрын

Would have been nice if you had shown how to do the firmware changes/ pid tune.

@pet3ro 4 жыл бұрын

Your can speed up wrapping with this kind of wrap by "screwing it on" the cables Just get a few wraps on and then start twisting the wrap.

@billereses4935 4 жыл бұрын

What thermal paste is this that can resist up to 450"C? I never found one the goes even to 300°C...

@helpimlost137 4 жыл бұрын

Boron Nitride Paste.

@juananayalomeli73 3 жыл бұрын

love you videos man. they're way helpful, I am more than grateful for what u do.

@mikel2730 2 жыл бұрын

You should try peek from filamatrix made here in the states ..iv never had good results with esun peek ,no heated chamber needed for the filamatrix .im using the slice mosquito instead of the copperhead

@GuardianLords 4 жыл бұрын

can you print in lead or tin?

@hypersphereengineering6015 2 жыл бұрын

Why did Slice Engineering make the Mosquito mechanically strong enough to do one handed nozzle changes but the Copper head requires you hold The heat block with a spanner whilst you undo the nozzle with a second spanner?

@lacucaracha111111 4 жыл бұрын

You could print some super close and directed PLA/ABS cooling ducts for super cooling quality

@brianwgDK 3 жыл бұрын

don't get why I need this vs e3d v6 Fullmetal that run up to 500c.???

@MrMegaPussyPlayer 4 жыл бұрын

13:39 Is this filament dry enough? I heard that especially those materials need to be extra dry.§D printing nerd has one video of a convention (? right word?) where one company for technical materials show their drying setup. Which includes a special drying oven and a vacuum drying setup as second step. They then also store the filament under vacuum.

@mrb2917 4 жыл бұрын

no it's not dry enough

@brettcnc 4 жыл бұрын

Vision miner company have excellent info on high temp printing and bed issues.

@strykervalkyrion 4 жыл бұрын

you should do a comparison with the dyze high temp hotend

@Phago90 4 жыл бұрын

I'm Customizing a tronxy X5sa at the moment in serveral steps (right Now at step 2 of 5) to print peek in the end) The Bad layer adhesion could be because of the open chamber. I read of an Ambiente temp of 100-150 degrees Celsius to print peek without Problems. Therefor I will use a watercooled hotend. I totally understand, That you don't want to use so much of this filament for testing. But try to use it on a glass Plate. Joel met some guys from a Company which invented a "gluestick" especially for peek.

@3D_Printing 4 жыл бұрын

Please try 3D printing Solder, may need cooling quick

@artfess 2 жыл бұрын

how do you get the bed to 150C?

@f16pilotjumper 4 жыл бұрын

For valid thermal camera comparison the surfaces have to have the same finish. The black anodize will emit a lot more IR and read higher. A better measurement would be to actually stick a theromcouple down the heat break to the start of the cold zone. Others have done this and shown the Copperheat heat break performs well.

@tomkayak9752 4 жыл бұрын

Oh, the irony of 3D printing PEEK :)

@UNVIRUSLETALE 4 жыл бұрын

Imho the filament was not dry enough, I've seen some setups for peek/pei/pekk and it needed drying every few hours of use

@nife3557 4 жыл бұрын

Sorry, but why no comparisons with the currently popular/similar hotends? Hope for a longer video in the future...

@tony35842 3 жыл бұрын

It occurs to me that the best material for a heat break would be an appropriate ceramic. Has anyone ever done this / tried to do this?

@ptalbany 2 жыл бұрын

waiting for mine to come any day now

@Lidocain777 4 жыл бұрын

Don't know if I'll try PEEK at some point. Actually, I never had situations where a hi-temp resistance is required. For now, PETG, ABS, PA and PC are plenty enough to me. Since PEEK is a veeery specialized material, designed for industrial requirements, it might not be for me right now. Yet, who knows ... As hi-temp printers become more and more common, maybe the PEEK price tag may slightly lower and become a bit more affordable ? Considering the application field of PEEK, you might use it for very specific things. I don't know, maybe parts that would lie a in a hot (or cold) environment and be virtually undestructible. It has to be something useful. No lattice cube or cute Groot here. Engineering parts. Oh ... and that hotend looks marvelous !

@jothain 4 жыл бұрын

Lol. It's common material in food packaging machines where ie. filling head needs to withstand cip chemicals. It's hilarious to read all space age plastic comments for someone who works with machines 😄

@niclic106 4 жыл бұрын

I think you shouldn't apply thermal paste to upper part of heatbrake which make contact with radiator.

@VincentGroenewold 3 жыл бұрын

Mmm, so, I usually think these video's are absolutely great. But not accounting for the different offset, not having the peek dried (which can also cause issues with sticking properly), is a bit surprising. Also, it would've been nice to see more tests with a cheaper filament that doesn't stop you for the cost of it, like CF nylon or something.

@travistucker7317 2 жыл бұрын

He is only human, Vince.

@BeefIngot 4 жыл бұрын

I'm also no expert but have heard other KZfaqrs talking about tuning for emicivity with the camera. That or a piece of tape on metal

@santiagoblandon3022 4 жыл бұрын

Wow! Teaching Tech rocks! =D

@tobias5740 4 жыл бұрын

Didn't know Esteban Ocon was into 3D printing.

@jozefwaldhauser 4 жыл бұрын

hahaha

@goddamnmaddog2024 4 жыл бұрын

XD, now print a racing-car! and drive a world record!

@TeachingTech 4 жыл бұрын

Danny Ric fan here. In fact my dog is named Ricciardo, and my pevious dog was named Webber.

@tobias5740 4 жыл бұрын

@@TeachingTech Haha awesome! Can't wait to see Danny in a McLaren next year. I have a very good feeling about it.

@spinyheghog 3 жыл бұрын

Peek is very humidity sensitive all brands have spools that are loose packed they expect you to respool after baking the water out of the filament.

@bigratkiller1 4 жыл бұрын

Why would you use thermal paste on the point where the heat break fit's into the heatsink. You want as little transmission of heat there as possible

@scramsby 3 жыл бұрын

You want heat transfer away from the heat break in that section to the heat sink to cool down the upper part of the heat break (i.e. prevent heat creep). Otherwise the heat might instead transfer to the filament therein and cause a clog. The heat transfer you really don't want is between the middle part of the heat break to the upper part of the heat break, which isn't affected by the use of the paste there.

@landspide 4 жыл бұрын

You can almost print a standard heat block itself with that!

@ManIkWeet 4 жыл бұрын

I'm shocked that they told you to put thermal paste between the heater block and the heatbreak... The purpose of the heatbreak is to minimize heat going to the coldside and you just put thermal compound to improve the heat transfer?