haha good call!

Yes it is, and same here! lol

Haha, thanks!

Thank you!

You are right, that would be a good option, but for this particular combo, I'm going with .0025 for a thicker oil wedge, you don't need 60 lbs at idle, this engine will be at 1200+ at the crank and the owner is hard on engines lol

@@CompetitorsEdge22 I'd be willing to bet most once broken/wore in good would open up as much as .0005.... I wonder.. How much clearance is required for "Rod Knock" to occur?!?

@ICONBADGTA Ya great point, I have thought of this as well, one could do some testing and measure clearance after to see how much it opens up. As of now, I have built many using the .001" per inch of journal + .0005" with 0 issues and no rod knock.

@@CompetitorsEdge22 That is why i have a hard time with a "377/383" Chevy stroker... I did one around 2002ish... Grinding , small base circle XE-282-HR10+2*ADV... What got me was how close .050 is... Basically, the thickness of a nickel in some places... My professor (I WAS IN AUTOMOTIVE TECH) explained that it would be knocking like hell long before that clearance was taken up, but i still couldn't get past the thought of it spinning so close at 6000rpm+... I lost sleep over it, and heck guys with 350's & H-Beams have clearance issues also sometimes. It's wild... My current ZZ430 Clone aka "GM FASTBURN HEADS/LT4 HOTCAM" has a issue when warm, once at temp oil pressure at idle can go as low as 15psi, but even with just a slight bit of gas pedal, it shoot sup to 45psi+ with the 5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic i use. I am thinking of going 5W-40 to cure it, until i go all forged like you with my 350 for the supercharger i plan to buy this year, that way i can turn up the boost from the planned 10psi MAX now to 15PSI+. Chevy bottom ends don't do well with a lot of boost. Cap walk is real... Especially on Chevy 2 bolt blocks. Even roller blocks. Later man! Adam