This has to be the best, if not one of the best tutorial videos I have ever watched. Awesome job! You made something that sounds so difficult, look easy if you take your time. Thank you so much, you now gave me the confidence and motivation to tackle this job on my 1972 454. Thanks again!

Without a doubt, the best tutorial on this particular job that I could find. Excellent! Thank you.

Great instruction! I'm about to DIY rear main seal on a 1966 Chevy L6 with engine still installed and was having hard time getting the courage to tackle the job. My oil pan is 4 piece but you have covered all the bases and given me the confidence to tackle the job. Thank you, sir.

Great video Mike. If I kept watching all these awesome videos I might turn into a mechanic after all. Nice job.

Excellent. And what a clean shop. Am impressed with talking about how important clean mating surfaces are.

Great explanations Mike. I'll take some of your tips when I do my Ford 351W that needs replacing. Thanks

Hi Mike You made it look so easy. I really enjoyed watching the video. Reminded me of the old days, some 30 years ago when I did my last in the car rear main seal replacement. I was on my back and the car was up on jack stands. The kit did not come with that helpful tool. In recent times, we put new seals in when we built our race engines, much easier when everything is apart. Your approach was very impressive. Thank you for sharing, Carl Bullock Newtown, PA

Thanks for showing step by step on this job. Really saved me on the install.

Great vid Mike. Very informative, had the info and level of detail I needed. Thanks!

Changing out the seal on my 79 Camaro . Tips and attention to detail were awesome . Great Video !!!!!!!

Excellent video all around, best walk-thru of doing a SBC rear main. Thanks for showing the felpro part#s and measuring for correct pan gasket as well.

Thank you very much.. I watched this video months ago to get a sense of how tough this could be. I am in the process of doing the RMS on my BBC 402 in my C20 and I fast forwarded to the step where you punch it through.. I went under the truck and with two taps, it came out. You rock.

Great video, best I've seen! Made me subscribe. I'm about to do this job in a '71 Corvette - nice thing about doing this on a C3 Corvette, the engine sits behind the cradle, no need to jack up the engine : ) Thank you for sharing your expertise with all of us KZfaq apprentices!

Hi Mike, being retired with time on my hands I decided to overhaul the brakes, suspension bushes, fit thermo fans, central locking and power windows on my `80 G10 Chevy van. While doing that I pulled the engine (350 auto). Primarily to clean , paint and generally replace any gaskets and seals needed. I owned and operated American Car Specialists in London Uk before coming to Aust.It`s been 30+ years since I did anything more than basic services on my American cars here in Oz, but thanks to your `memory boosting video` It`s coming back. The biggest problem is finding parts here at the right price. Cheers MIKE, i HAVE LIKED AND SUBSCRIBED.

Great walkthrough, i am about to replace the old felt rear seal on my 56' 265 and this is the best video i've found, not the exact same engine but the principal will be the same

Thank you so much for this video. My 75 Corvette has a leaky rear main that I've been pretending I don't know about but after watching your comprehensive video I feel like I can probably tackle the job. Great video, very thorough and easy to follow. Thanks again!

By far one of the best instructional video. Thank you for taking your time to share your knowledge and expertise.

I'm very grateful to see your video & tackle this by going through this at the moment on my 76 f250 highboy. luckily enough my truck is tall and the oil pan is easy to drop. thank you very much, Sir, for your dedication & demonstration, your time to explain this is clearly much appreciated with myself and many others! I'm officially subscribed to you... cheers.

Very very good job. A lot of these show and tells assume people know a lot about the topic already, you are able to teach with out getting too simplistic and taking forever. I like how you point out the somewhat "controversial" items, because a lot of folks do things different ways. Your video is really good, a guy can see most all of it. I really really like the first bit of what to look for PRIOR to starting the job. A lot of these leave that out. Overall, A+ and thank you. Great video. What i would like to see more of these types of videos is a) a list of tools required at the start (ie: wrenches, scrapers, torque wrenches, engine lift, etc and consumables like brake cleaner and gasket cement and others - both bare minimum and what is best) and write it on paper and show it long enough for a guy to take a screen shot and b) a list of spec, like torque specs written down so a guy can also take a screen shot. But still, a great video.

great job and very thurough video. if i ran into you as my local mechanic man i'd feel i hit a goldmine in knowledge and integrity and experience giving you all this wisdom

Thank you very much. This video gave me info I needed to dare to change this myself. I apreciate you patience to make this video very detailed and easy to understand.

Awesome video. This is by far the best and most informative how to I've seen.

Excellent job! I really like your attention to detail in regards to what to watch out for like the little nylon installation tool, unless there are directions in the gasket set addressing this I'd probably think was just piece of shad and discard it. I have a 427 4 bolt mains in my "69"Camaro and have been noticing a few drips as of late out of the scatter shield. Never have done this but always heard this could done. I would assume this would be the same for a BBC. Thanks for the effort in your videos, I know it take a passion and a lot of work to share your knowledge. Karl

This is an outstanding video on this task. Thank you. I wish I had a mechanic of your skills near me.

Excellent tutorial on how to replace a two piece SBC rear main seal...thank you for posting this.

Great video . Very organized and professional 👍

Thanks Ive offset rear main seals like 10mm between cap and block, siliconed mating faces on seal ends and siliconed block/cap mating faces and never had a leak. Im trying out using a neo seal in a rope block as well

I’m a new subscriber and I enjoy! How Precise and calibrated this man is! Very thorough! And clear! Please keep these vids coming god bless! 😊

Best tutorial I could find great job. Now I feel confident! Thanks

Awesome tutorial. Thank you!

Very well done Mike . Keep up the great work .

Thank you friend, your a good teacher, good tricks of the trade. Keep the videos coming. Thanks again👍

excellent tutorial - thanks for sharing

Superb! I really enjoyed watching this video, thanks. It was very well done and I can also appreciate the attention to detail and had a chuckle at 32:05 when you aligned your hammers.

Awesome tutorial. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Thankyou for this video now I'm on the right track,

Really like the sound of that torque wrench. Gotta get me one!! ✌

Great tutorial. Nicely done.

The best teacher on the Chevy 350 planet

What a great video. I'm not sure I want to do this lying on my back under my 79 Corvette, which will undoubtedly be more cramped for space, but who knows, I might.

Great Now I am ready to tackle my 1970 Chevy Truck Thank You

Very helpful and informative. Thank You

Thank you, very informative. Only thing I'd like to have seen is where you put the sealer on the oil pan gasket at 4 corners.

Excellent video

Thank you. Great video

Great video, thanks for your help!

Wow, that was a great video sir, learned a lot, needing to change the oil pan gasket in a 77 Camaro w engine in car.... thanks, I think I can do it now. 👍👍

Great video! Thank you for sharing!

Informative video! I have a rear main leak on my 86 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham with the original Olds 307. The original two piece 'rope' or 'wick' type seal was replaced 10 years ago due to a leak then, but unfortunately started leaking again after 1 year. Im by no means a mechanic, but do attempt to do as much of fixes my self if possible. I read on some forums that there are now replacement neoprene/rubber rear seals to replace original rope fitted seals. Im debating on attempting this myself. Have you had any experience with using rubber rear seals in place of original rope type setups?

Great Video; one of the best that I have seen. One thing that I didn't see you cover was the gasket removal under the timing chain and the rear pan seal. I am thinking that those should be removed as part of the process if the 1 piece Fel-Pro pan gasket is installed, if I missed it my apologies. Could someone confirm? Keep up the great work, I would love to see more Mid 60's through mid 70 GM how to's!.

Thanks for the videos. it was very helpful.

Solid tutorial on real world example. Good stuff.

Very nice video, thank you 👍

Best tutorial on how to do it.

Excellent job!! Thanks

Excellent, Couldn't of ask for better

Great video. Thanks. Wondering if the main seal isn’t leaking, the valve covers aren’t leaking and the intake manifold isn’t leaking, what else can be leaking out the clutch cover?

Thank you! Very helpful!

Nice video. Thanks for the info.

Excellent Video Mike. I like your work and detail...... I am replacing Rear Mail Seal and Oil Pan Gasket on a 1970 350. Using Fel Pro gasket and seal. Do you recommend a small dab of sealer on cap and block mating surface? I noticed you did not apply sealer to that cap/block area. Also I can see some wear on crank from seal but I cannot feel anything with my finger nail. I bought both Fel Pro seals the replacement you used and the offset seal for wear. Thx for your work,

Great video and very informative. Best video out there on replacing a rear main seal. I have a ‘67 firebird 326. Is that a one piece or 2 piece rear main seal. New subscriber and a fan of your work on this topic.

Great video!

Thank you for this video.

Thank you for your video!

Thanks. Great video. Having problems getting the main cap bolts out. 1/2 impact did not budge them. Seems like someone severely over torqued them. Any suggestions?

I'm considering buying a Camaro of this exact model and year that the guy says has a rear main seal leak where it sat so long. If it's really possible to do this, I'll be watching this video on repeat for a while haha

Great video….need to do this exact job on my 70’ Nova. Where can I find those big shop towels you are using as fender protectors??

I loved that dental floss tip! Thanks!

Really liked the video

What a great video for the job at hand, what brand of light is that? I could have really used one today.

Nice presentation, I have a questions for you. When you have an older 60's 327 or 283 that does not have a tap in the front of the crank shaft and you need to press on a damper pully. If you use a block of wood and a hammer, does this make the rear main leak?

Great video, thanks

Thanks for this, i need to reseal my pan. What did you jack up on, the harmonic balancer?

Don't forget the zinc and phosphorus additive. I use Valvoline VR1 Racing oil it has zinc and phosphorus. Also do you not put a small dab of rtv where the two halves of the rear main seals meet? I'm doing this job on a G Body soon but I'm pulling the engine out because I don't have a lift and I'm a big boy I'm not going to be fighting throwing elbows at everything down there. While it's out it's getting a valve job, HV oil pump new Milodon 6 qt pan new rings and maybe bearings. Oh and new front transmission seal and a smaller stall. Going from 3500 to around a 3k stall. Great video and I like your shop it looks very clean.

Like the dental floss trick!!! Will definitely be using that.

Thank you for the Video! Question 1. When/where/should I use Anerobic sealer on the rear main bearing cap- I did it once on a Jeep 4.0 before..seems like it would apply here? 2. When the oil is drained entirely do you need to prime the oil pump prior to starting or is that only for a fresh rebuild? Thanks!

Is it ok to raise the engine and trans by lifting on harmonic balancer? Also guessing you also had to take the transmission crossmember bolts off too right?

Mike the only problem is when you show what lip goes too the crank your holding the seal out of view of the camera! It be nice too see the end of the seal too make sure you have it right! I put mine in with the big side toward the crank and thin side too the transmission I hope that’s the correct way? Or I’m redoing it! I must of screwed up somewhere because after I installed it, it’s still leaking I followed everything you said cleaned everything, checked everything but I got oil on my bellhousing so I’ll be redoing this again but it shouldn’t take 6 hrs this time since the gasket is brand new and the pump is new

sir have you even seen a SBC harmonic balancer seperate.. Im rebuilding a 4.3 chevy,, the sleeve on the balancer had a groove worn in it from the seal. I bought a speedy sleeve and put the balancer in the freezer for abt an hour to shrink the metal. I took it to my bench, installed the speedy sleeve and let the balancer come to room temp. I then took a rubber mallet and was getting the balancer started on the crankshaft. I noticed little pieces of rubber falling out, so I started hitting it with the mallet to take it off and the outer ring of the balancer seperated from the inner ring.,. so did me putting it in the freezer cause this? or was it just old and brittle.. the inner and outer parts of the ring seem to be glued together.. I was shocked that it seperated..

so do you think that it is or is not a good idea to apply gasket sealant under the crank seal? or is it recommended by OE anywhere in workshop manuals?

Thanks for your input. I replaced the 2 piece rear main and piece Oil pan gasket just as you prescribed in your video. Same gasket and seal. Took my time and very methodical process used a torque wrench on all bolts. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets using the same process. Car ran for about 30 - 45 minutes and I noticed 1 drop of oil on floor under the oil pan below the rear main. Looks dry all around back of pan/gasket area but the oil is coming down behind the dust cover for the bell housing. Any suggestions? Thx

How important are the torque specs for those bolts that go back in? I don’t have a tool like that need to know if I should

thanks for your knowledge

Great tutorial, thanks! I'm following your steps on my '80 Z28 but even after removing the motor mount bolts and jacking at the balancer, the engine does not want to lift on its own - the whole car wants to lift. Any suggestions? The motor mounts were recently replaced by the previous owner and do not seem to be seized, etc. Bolts are clean and came right out. (Using my daughter's account to comment, in case you're wondering haha)

This video was a big help. I have a question though, where can I get that little white nylon tool that keeps the seal from getting cut? I purchased a Felpro kit but it did not include the tool.

Is that a transmission fluid check valve behind the bell house?

Was that the dip stick moving around at the end lol! Holy shiznet!

Helpful video

Would this video apply to the 1977 Pontiac 350 5.7?

Hey Mike, First thank you for an great video. I have a 68 Camaro SS, with a mid 70;s 350 small block, I have a question, did you rotate the crank to No5 for clearance on the harmonic balancer, and did you have to disconnect the header flanges in order to lift the engine the 2-3 inches, Appreciate your comments, I'm on the fence, because I wont have a lift, so will be on my back. Thanks again Tom

Couple things. I noticed you didn't use a thin layer of rtv on the journal cap. Also, does it matter if you don't torque the cap back to the same torque?

Great video. Got my 80z in need of this. 46 min Video but how long actual time?

would this job work for 77 nova with auto? Thanks

How do I tell if I have a 1 piece or 2 piece? It's a 1986 Chevrolet k10 I'm assuming it's a 305 passenger side dip stick

No silicone on the rear main cap?

Hi other than taking the motor mount bolts did you have to take off the bolt that holds the transmission on the crossmember?

I'm getting ready to do mine. I noticed you didn't put a touch of "Ultra Black" on the offset ends of the seal or the main cap. What's your experience in doing that or leaving it dry. Thanks in advance 😎

When you have to loosen the other bolts to get the seal out how do you properly re tighten the bolts. Mine won't come out may need to loosen them up. Any info will help. Thanks for your time

Hi do u know the torque spec on a 2 bolt sbc mains

Good job but I’m surprised nobody mentioned that you forgot to apply oil resistant rtv on the ends of the rear main seal.