Great tip!

For sure. I didn’t sand the print before applying and probably spent no more than 45 minutes sanding.

Thanks! Yeah, airborne resin is a BAD IDEA. Regardless of what you're shooting it out of.

Thanks Meghan!

Hi sorry I'm 7 months late. But would you happen to know if UV Resin could strengthen something like a 3D print?

@@ZetherianUse an ABS like resin and it will likely add some strength without adding a lot of weight

For sure. I've had really good success with it and it's made me want to use my FDM printer much more than before because it's so much less effort to get a good finish for paint. I've always felt like high fill auto body primer just lays over the layer lines and not between them, so it's never really making a strong bond to the surface and can take awhile to dry otherwise is just gums up your sandpaper, even if wet sanding. The truth is, everyone has a method that works for them and as long as it gets you to the finish line, then it's the right method for the job.

@@VanOaksProps Why would you disable dislikes?

@@MC-ml3cn KZfaq does it by default.

Glad it helped!

Glad I could help!

Does it not work if you sit it in the sun?

My pleasure!

It can, if applied too heavily.

Yes you're adding particles into spaces where there were not. So the detail is now less rigid. Resin is very thin. I would say you're working with a .1mm tolerance

You should! It's so much easier.

It cures pretty quickly, but it’s always best to refer to the manufacturers specs.

It kind of depends on the complexity of the project. This one took a few hours. I've had some take a few days, but most of that time was logging footage and trying to figure out how best to tell the story.

@@VanOaksProps, well you do a great job!

You can go up the grits as high as you like, but I basically knock everything down with 120 and stop around 300-400 if it's just going to get painted. If it'll be metallic paint, I'll go higher and wet sand at 1000-1200.

You should. I'll never go back to the filler primer days. This adds structural integrity to 3d prints, is easy to sand, dries quickly, and is a lot cheaper.

Yes, the 3M Multi Gas Vapor Cartridge/Filter P100 60926 is my goto.

@@VanOaksProps Thank you.Those ones pretty much cover the entire gambit and it is useful info for people who have never used a respirator.

I would bondo large seams. This technique is really just for hiding layer lines.

Great question. There’s always going to be some degree of sanding, even if you sand your print first and apply resin second.

Assuming it's porous, it should work. But I can't say for certain since I've never used Tamiya putty.

I got it off cgtrader.com.

@@VanOaksProps thanks!

Thanks! I really enjoy watching them.

Yes, but it’s not intended to be your finish coat. It will require some light sanding and the primer & paint.

Cyanoacrylate (super) glue.

@@VanOaksProps Cool thanks. I wasn't sure if super glue worked still on pieces coated. I am building my mando helmet and am doing the UV resin method. I'm not coating the back side of the pieces I need to glue, but was going to coat the side of the helmet and was worried super glue would not adhere to the resin.

That's correct.

Nope, although it’s the best way to go about it.

Probably an hour to do the entire helmet.

@@VanOaksProps great info. Thank you!

I would't say it's any more dangerous than handling/sanding UV resin printed parts, but it's extremely important to wear proper PPE.

That's exactly what i did and I haven't had any issues.

The reaction happens quickly, so ideally it would be 10 seconds per layer.

You should. There's too many pluses to it over filler primer to not give it another shot.

You can.

In theory.

A word of caution when using XTC 3D. It's VERY thick and your instincts will tell you to apply a thick layer but you'll want to go as thin as possible, otherwise you'll lose any detail. Additionally, you'll want to make sure your 1:1 measurement is as exact as possible. If you get the recipe wrong it'll never really cure correctly. Good luck!

@@VanOaksProps Super useful tips! Thanks a million.

I don’t know that anything would really salvage a .1mm wall thickness without distorting/warping the walls.

I haven't seen any issues with it.

cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/haunted-mansion-serpent-doorhandle

@@VanOaksProps you sir are a god! thank you! i didnt even know this website existed.

Make sure you wipe your print down with isopropyl alcohol between layers. That’s typically what’s caused the problem for me.

@@VanOaksProps thanks, after watching your vid I did that and they're still sticky

@@markcampano1184 Walk me through your process and maybe we can figure out what's happening.

@@VanOaksProps dude thank you. It's an FDM print, I used elgoo grey resin and applied a think coat. Then I used a ultraviolet light (curing machine), still sticky so I placed it in the sun for many hours (4+), sprayed with 90% alcohol, tried curing machine again and still sticky to the touch. I'm sure I did something wrong, just not sure what.

@@markcampano1184 Basically what happens is that a skin is formed over the uncured resin as a result of being exposed to oxygen and it can trap uncured resin below it. That’s the stickiness you’re experiencing. When that’s happened to me, I’ve just wiped down the print with alcohol, lightly sanded it, rinsed off the resin dust & alcohol wipe again. Then apply my next thin layer of resin. Try applying your resin in sections (multiple thin layers) and exposing the individual sections as you go. It doesn’t take much time for the resin to react to uv light and beats having to sand off the sticky residue.

I think it is.

Lots of research will be required first. Thankfully there’s the Dented Helmet forums.

Yes, although it would flash pretty quickly. So you'd end up using more in the long run.

I did. I’m hoping Mrs. VanOaks gets me one for Christmas.

@@VanOaksProps nothing says "LOVE" like a spray can shaker ! Lol 😆

A few seconds. Once you’ve exposed the resin and wiped the part down with isopropyl alcohol (assuming you’re using standard uv resin) you should be fine to handle it.

@@VanOaksProps ok. Thanks. I used a foam brush & it seemed to “fill in” some of the small crevices a little too thick. So I had to keep brushing it out. I do like it for the large areas & eliminating the lines … it’s great for them. Thanks. I’m really enjoying it. Just practice !

Foam brush for me did the same thing. I would like to find a method where I don’t have to throw away a foam brush every time. Wonder if there is a way to have a dedicated brush, but one that I don’t need to clean off after every use. Maybe a bottle with resin in it, and the brush lives in that bottle or something?

​@robertparkhill8106 or you could just clean your brush

I do, however there are other makers who specialize in those helmets who would be better option. Coregeek (Eric Jones - coregeek.net) would be my first recommendation.

@@VanOaksProps I got in touch with him. He does not sell them. You are my last hope for this or I will have to make an attempt to make my own. I have never 3D printed before. What’s best? Filament/ UV resin/resin?

@@XsvShOnUfFvsX Have you tried Etsy? There's quite a few sellers who offer completed helmets. If you're unfamiliar with 3d printing, this is probably not the best project to start with, especially considering the chrome finish on the helmet.

@@VanOaksProps I do have some favorites on ETSY but they don’t respond yet. Also can get pricey. I don’t mind paying for quality work but $1,200 for a prop seems a bit much. Not trying to slam since I don’t know the industry of 3D prints

That's actually not that crazy. The amount of time required to get the helmet perfectly smooth so that it can be chromed (which is a whole other challenging process) and doing all the electronics are both pretty labor intensive tasks. Even more so if the helmet isn't one you make all the time. Hopefully there's a middle ground that works for your budget and still gets you the quality you're after.

Overture PLA

I would do one VERY thin layer over the entire helmet, then cure and repeat. You'll want to do it quickly though to prevent oxygen cure inhibition.

You're probably right. LOL

I didn't film one for this specific helmet, but there is this video where I paint another Star Wars helmet: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d51irKaXv72yd4U.htmlsi=AaPtYflBKfJcsJ9Q

@@VanOaksProps I'm more interested in how this turned out given it's flat surfaces and the method of filling you used. thanks though for the link

@@IcanCwhatUsay how it turns out will almost always be determined by how much time you put into prep. Especially with 3d printed objects.

I hear you. Sadly, the whole hobby is full of toxic products. All we can do is wear appropriate protective equipment and work smarter.

I am 100% AGAINST spraying resin through an airbrush. It's a horrible idea and should not be done.

I hear you. In truth, all of the products mentioned are toxic when applied and sanded. It just comes down to what works for you. Just be safe, regardless of your preferred method.

@@VanOaksProps oh yeah. 100% agree. But so many people don't understand resin and the dangers. You at least call that out. And you say no to spraying resin, which is becoming more popular.

…And yet resin doesn’t harden. It was off angle and didn’t reach the resin inside.

Hahahaha