incandescent lamps are durable enough plus they have a more realistic glow. notice that the vast majority of harrison's repairs have working headlamps....its not that hard to put together a constant-brightness incandescent light.

@@tommurphy4307 that's true, several of the locomotives I own still have incandescent bulbs. That being said, LEDs do operating at a much lower voltage and have a cooler operating temperature than incandescent bulbs, plus they've gotten much better in the appearance department where they look more realistic lately. There's nothing wrong with using incandescent bulbs, but LEDs make a nice alternative too, I have a couple of Atlas U36Cs with the bulbs burned out and found some LED direct replacements that I'm going to stick in them.

I agree, the chug chug car would be great on that engine!

Haha, I wish I had thought of that lol

Super. 💙 T.E.N.

Didn't know that, I'll have to give that a try.

It won't remove oxidation but it's not there long enough to cause it. Lighter fluid would probably work well too although I don't think it's conductive so it would have to be wiped down carefully.

Getting any petrochemical (lighter fluid/WD-40/Non-plastic safe oil or grease) on the white nylon gear will cause it to swell and crack, rendering the model a city park display piece.

​@@markwilliams2620 I've heard that theory before however when I was younger (before I knew better) I put WD 40 in many models and 12 years later the gears are still fine. Maybe it's the case with certain plastics but I've yet to see it.

Lighter fluid is basically naphtha, which as others have mentioned, can be hard on plastic. Denatured alcohol (ethanol) was what we used back when this loco was in production for cleaning. Methanol and isopropanol both have some properties unwelcome in model trains. A good LaBelle lubricant is probably the best antioxidant.

Remember, you can only let the smoke out once!

Thanks. You should try it, it can be fun once you get the hang of it.

I think mantua tyco made several variations of this locomotive so the B&O must be one of them.

@@SMTMainline yeah exactly but I think the tender was for a 0-4-0 for the one I have. But also they used it for multiple types. The 2-6-0,0-4-0,2-6-2 ,and your 0-6-0

of course they both worked on the prototype- never heard of a 'dummy coupler' in real life

@@tommurphy4307 Ok I wasn’t clear.. on the HO Scale Bachmann 0-6-0 locomotive slope tender the front coupler don’t function. Bachmann never allowed working horn hook couplers on both ends. I don’t see a front coupler on this locomotive 🚂? Thanks for pointing out my errors, i saw your empty profile with no channels and videos or descriptions. Seems like a lot of people are criticizing my comments but too lazy to fill out their own profiles. I’m bored too! Thanks!

Are they gonna restore it all the way to working order or just cosmetically?

I believe it's to working order as it has an Era correct caboose as well. But it's been at this museum since 2008 with little action, it's still on display outside as of 2021

it's not a TYCO, it's a mantua.

Mantua and Tyco were the same originally, before the guys split up, and Mantua originally did locomotive kits, and Tyco did the Ready-To-Run, but company dealings muddied the lines, with both selling kit and Ready-To-Run locomotives, until finally they went their separate ways, with Tyco's Powertorque and Mantua's super detailed locomotives being the result. (basically.) Tyco also used Rivarossi, IHC, and other drives for a SHORT time, resulting in a non Powertorque drive Chattanooga Choo Choo and all wheel drive Tyco diesel locomotives, as well as Mantua's dual motor MU-2 and single motor all wheel drive diesels. Tyco quit and Mantua was bought out or absorbed by Walthers or one of its subsidiaries. (Basically.) 💙 T.E.N.

@@tracynation2820 the original company was Mantua metal works. tyco is a contraction of the Tyler company. tyco produced a cheaper version of the Mantua products aimed at expanding sales to the toy market for trains.

Yep, that was a Readers Digest condensed version. (Basically.) I know the full story, Tyler and all that, and Mantua Metal Products, but the all wheel drive Tyco diesel locomotive era still muddies the water. 💙 T.E.N.

@@tracynation2820 scale MRRg was in it's infancy at that time. HO was not yet dominate, the depression, WW2, the mind set of the 30s,40s,&50s was much different from now. it appears complex, but human behavior does not follow a existing pattern, those people at the time TYCO evolved, found themselves in a jungle of styrene. it was a perfect medium to mass produce cheap, toy HO. people try to create a reality. but others had their own ideas, some better, some not.

I stripped and repainted mine as the original paint was literally falling off. Mine still has the original box and has the walschaerts valve gear kit.

Usually the washers fail and make these things run crappy. The lower "milage" ones run pretty well.

I believe the original motor to the one I fixed up had a bad winding in it too. If given a turn by hand, it would start but ran very poorly.

Thanks

thats a marginal connection- easy fix

Thanks

Thanks

Thanks 👍

It's the best

Once I get it a little more complete.

Entertaining 9/10

That works well too although I don't think the cost would be too different.

For conduction, use a dab of mineral oil, TEN conductive lubricant, (Out of production.) or anti oxidant, (Ox-Guard is one.) on the contact areas, don't use oil on the contract areas, and avoid getting it on the motor commutator. However, a VERY small drop of oil, plastic compatible, on each rail, well spread out and completely wiped off with a soft cloth, will help with wheel/rail contact on both inside and outside model railway layouts. 💙 T.E.N. Edit: The 107 is fine for axle contact, but not bolster contact. 🙂

@@tracynation2820 alright thanks, I mainly need it for some bearings which also transfer power and the factory had oiled them with the wrong lubricant, a common issue with the first batch of the model in question.

It very well could have been added on. Wheat grain bulbs are pretty cheap

It is annoying how they designed it like that.

For DC and MRC Tech ii would probably be good.

An old-school MRC Tech ll 2400 will rock your world. I can operate up to nine modern locomotives or up to five older locomotives at one time with one of these power packs. 💙 T.E.N.

It's metal. I was thinking it could be a short too but the current draw is low without spikes so I'm not sure. Maybe the bulb is just too hot for the paint?

@@SMTMainline - It could be a bad connection too that intermittently opens & causes the bulb to flicker.

Does the gear on the center wheel not move? It may be cracked

@@YeOldeGeezer no only the two front and rear it's a 4-64

Can you turn the drive manually without too much force from the drive shaft?

@@SMTMainline unfortunately no I'll do a video of it hopefully you could see it

Re-quarter the drive wheels, make sure that the drive wheels are correctly gauged and the drive gear is centered, check for cracks and gunk or missing teeth on the gears, and make sure that the siderods are free to move and not kinked, and that everything is slippery with the correct lubricant, along with good electrical connections and clean wheels and contact surfaces. This is assuming that the motor is working and doesn't have a weak magnet, bad brushes, or an electrical short. 💙 T.E.N.

or were those made blind? does anyone know for sure?

That might just be dirt build-up on the wheel treads that looks like traction tires.

I don't think they ever had any.

@@Petemonster62 we're not talking about traction tires.

@@suppylarue220 The middle drivers were made blind so they didn't have flanges on them. If it had Flanges on them the locomotive wouldn't be able to make the turns too easily if at all. They did the same thing a 4-6-2 Pacific and higher wheel configuration. Such as a Mikado 2-8-2 even the big boy the center two drivers on the 8-wheel configuration has no flanges to Aid in turning. Like give an example deleting driver on the Mikado or big boy or any locomotive for that matter unless it's a 0-4-0 the leading driver has flanges the next driver does not have flanges then the third driver if equipped such as in a 8-wheel configuration does not have flanges then the fourth axle has drivers.