Don't tell me how to live my life

It starts to get Loose If you push It too much times... Best way to preserve "mechanical" parts are not using them.

@Dave Hanson Nah, this is why you buy a retrode 2 and just dump all of your save data and roms and play through an emulator, save the original hardware, keep it in good shape, and still get to enjoy all of your favorite classics www.dragonbox.de/en/accessories/cartridge-dumper/retrode-2-cartridge-dumper

@Dave Hanson Or: just leave it on 24/7 to not wear out the power switch.

Really the eject button does what you can do by hand. It just applies extra leverage.

Battery will last over 10 to 20 years will you really need to replace it again

@@michaelholmes4374 short term thinking

@@Gorton how is that short term thinking in 10 to 20 years most people will have moved on I've had enough of retro collecting sold most of my expensive games replaced with a flash cart

Nice! Good job.

He's like the Bob Ross of microelectronics.

No, that would me.But not gonna lie this guy is awesome👍

Just found this channel and it is chill.

For reals! Hos vids get me relaxed and in a chill vibe, sometimes even helps me to fall asleep easily in a weird way lol

Ricardo Cooper also, heating a battery is a bad idea(tm)

It also doesn't help to first remove the all the solder from the bottom of the board. If the pad is dry, the iron only makes contact in small spots. Working on a fillet reduces the thermal resistance between the tip and the board -- as does using something better than a D1.6 tip. I'm assuming most people don't have a desoldering iron that's worth anything. Parts like this with only a few flexible leads can easily just be walked out of the board with the iron. Add solder, hinge part out, wick pads, replace part. Wicking is even optional. For something like this, you could just walk it back in. Before anyone complains that there's a risk of lifting traces on the top side, I have to point out that digging around and prying while insufficiently heating the bottom side is an even better way to ruin things. The same goes for scrubbing around with a weak desoldering iron, trying to get the topside fillet to melt or trying to get the last bit out of the hole.

@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC In fact PCBs are pretty hard to delaminate mechanically unless you do something very stupid. What kills them is the absence of preheating - and the thermal expansion that follows. So what I usually do with through-hole mounted stuff is preheating things (well, I always do this), applying much solder to have some heat storage - and then just pulling them out while heating with both the iron and some supporting heating (can be done even with a small blowtorch should you get used to it). Can require walking for wider components (some small ones can be just shaken out), but this never caused any bad consequences. Of course, doing this with a battery isn't the best idea though, so I'd just cut the leads off :)

Preheating is good advice. A lot of people recommend plate heaters, though I find that it works better to use your hot air station to add heat where needed. A hot air station (or heat gun) can couple heat to either side of the board and can be selectively applied, unlike a hotplate. But you're right. The whole thing is an issue of heat flow. The plating in the hole has such a thin cross section that it has a significant thermal resistance on the through-board axis. Similarly, the solder annulus has a small cross section and the alloy has low volumetric conductivity. A large part of the heat that you're coupling to the top side has to go through the part lead. This is why it's a pain to wick a hole after the lead has been removed. You're either going to have to increase the temperature or minimize all the resistances on the solder side, or you're going to have to bring heat to the top side via some other path. FWIW, the plating adhesion on paper phenolic is much weaker than it is for something like FR4. Especially if the board has been hot in service, they peel extremely easily.

@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC TBH I prefer to not use wicks for holes at all. Those are not SMDs so you don't care about any extra solder anyway, all you need is the hole itself. The most fun way I found so far was adding much solder to make it melt better - and next using a thin tube to just blow the air through the hole. Unlike the vacuum solder removers this requires no contact at all (even some significant distance is still ok), and the surface tension makes most of the solder just fly away should it be heated well enough. As for air guns, yes and yes! Hotplates take too long to properly heat things up (as your board has different heat diffusion paths and inconsistent IR reflectivity you are forced to heat it very slowly) - and with a gun you can control the heat gradient on the fly. Though I sometimes prefer smaller torches - as the flame is a stream, it has a lower pressure compared to the ambient air, as a result the colder air gets mixed in, creating a very stable temperature gradient - just find the "sweet spot" and use it :)

Screw john riggs lol he doesn't know how to fix games 😂 in all his videos he just cleans them. He doesn't put effort on fixing the game. He likes to take the chips off and put them on a working board. Basically sacrificing a game to make the other game to work.

Especially at 1.5x speed 😋

True, if you watch AkBKuKu's video on him trying to add chips onto a ram board, he get solder on the pad and trys to remove it with a sucker, he ripped the pad itself off and had to use a little copper piece from a spare PCB to fix it.

Your so cool bro!!

@@RonSayss "you're" you mean?

Brite boy may also be worth a shot, similar to brasso but less harsh. :)

But I rather think the brass went off from the pins, because it was used a lot. They losed their colour.

He's clearly Canadian, Listen to him say 'Out' at 20:00

It sounds weird but it's the way to do it

Desolder..... Solder.

It helps form a bridge to allow the heat from the iron to flow into the joint easier.

27 youtube Mins might as well be hours in real time.

The latter. Even if there were saved games i would have replaced it

Nothing that he used was really moist. 99% alcohol dries insanely fast and mops up flux residue.

I read this before watching and though, how bad could it be? But you nailed it

OMG I wish there was a warning for this, ouch.

EdgyShooter i was going to comment exactly what you said lol

I wet sand my NES contacts with electrical contact cleaner and 2000 grit automotive sandpaper. Quit cringing. If your contacts were tarnished when you started cleaning and were shiny when you were done then you removed metal from them. That's how removing tarnish works, no matter what method you use. You can't get clean contacts without removing damaged metal.

@@adamgh0 i understand this, but it doesn't make it any less painful to hear... Also can't believe you used the word cringe unironically.

Checking PPBUS G3

hahahahahahahhahahahhahahahhahahhahahahhahahahahhahahahahahahahahaha best comment eveeeer!

hope you didnt learn it from these videos...

It's possible, but at the same time, 25+ year old battery is due for a replacement anyway. If it's still good, it won't be for much longer

@@RetroRepairs I see, thanks :)

I've got the oem av cable. It definitely could be your tv, this is a tiny one so it looks a bit smoother. Trying to run it on a big flatscreen will definitely look choppier

@@RetroRepairs thanks I might give that a go just to see the difference. I only have a 40inch so that's I was hoping it was the cable - bit cheaper fix :)

you can NEVER have enough flux

Killer Queen. It has a nice compartment in it's stomach area

I have 30 gauge stranded wire, and usually use 2 individual strands, not sure exactly what size the individual stands end up being

I use a hakko fx-888D. It's a pretty solid starter station for the price.

I've got one i haven't tested yet in my latest mail day, so maybe

RetroRepairs you should definitely do that

He’s got an older video of him fixing one if you can’t wait :)

Super nes not nes dumbo

Go Away I want him to fix a nes not a super nes I know the difference

Learned by watching videos and tinkering with my own stuff. Sometimes I resell, usually i keep them unless ive got a few copies already. It's not particularly profitable, you'd need to do a LOT at once to make enough money to consider it more than a hobby

Correct. Also to not use the very edge of soldering iron in these jobs.

Haven't come across one reasonably priced that wasn't working. When I do, i definitely will make a video.

@@RetroRepairs When teaching, always remember showing the most difficult operations, will result in a better understanding of the simpler stuff.