The wiser machinist uses the trick of being able to zero out their calipers and then going for the difference in the reading to zero. It's less prone to mistakes as opposed to doing the math in our heads, or in a calculator or on paper. The wise machinist learns the easiest way to get the job done in a way that's less prone to error, and John demonstrates this time and time again.

If you can make one kid smile or you get asked a question you will have made an impression on there life. Good luck and remember how you started the trade. I tell people that what drives me is the fact that I can look back at the end of the day and say “ I made that “. Keep up the good work mate.

A true BSP taper thread form would be perpendicular to the lathe centre axis. Good work around all the same. You got it done!👍

Hi John and Debs 😊, well you made one, I admit I was sceptical, but you proved me wrong , canny work whith the thread chaser man, Atb to you both, Stuart UK.

G’day John I became a TAFE teacher 20 years ago training Auto apprentices. A lot of fun and a lot easier on the old body.

Hi John, I think from memory that the thread form is perpendicular to the axis of the fitting and not perpendicular to the taper. I'll check the spec at work tomorrow. I've never cut a taper thread so I'm not quite sure how it should be done though. I'm sure you'll go down a treat at the technical college, wish I could be there!! Good luck from Spain!!

Holy fuck! That brass, what a racket! Lol

Your a man of many mickys John, very interesting,

You'll be a star at the technical college, taking over from "Blaster Bates" (That should a name to ring a few bells 🔔 fir those of a certain age). Nice job on the taper thread, the Vulcan Aircraft and house number you cut still looks great. Thanks for sharing.

If you are going to give a talk at the local college you will have to watch out for the "bastards". Take that any way you want. 😂

Nice to see how you managed to go ahead with the thread cutting 👍👍 . Your in full contact with the chasing tool so that cut is increasing the load as it cuts, agree with you saying about cutting a taper on the part , may help grinding of the the first 3 threads on the chassing tool a bit to relive the tool pressure. Hope that makes sense.

Nice work around John. Assuming it was a hand chaser you had set up in the tool holder, you could have used that to hand finish to the required fit. As apprentices we used to get bollocked for using hand chasers in the tool holder but were tought to dress threads and even cut them from scratch in brass with hand chasers on a tool rest. The same way you would turn wood with a chisel. It involves an L shaped rest being held in the tool holder. As they say, more than one way to skin a cat and it's not wrong if it works.

Great video John. Thank you for sharing.

John, I am sure your talk at the college will go well and you will enjoy it! warm regards vic

Near to Christmas? It's October man! Great night cap, thanks John.

Very interesting as I had expected to see a taper turning attachment used. As I see it, you need a chaser-type tool with multiple teeth for this to work.

I HAVE NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THAT , VERY COOL , VERY GOOD JOB

Great video John, keep'um coming..

Cheers John. It does show how to cut the threads without a die so great tips!

Good luck with the inspirational talk!

What a nice idea. I wondered how can we get one cutting tool like this? Please post it here in comment space.

I don't doubt you can use this thread like normal, but it contains multiple errors in it's taper, helix angle, contact faces of the flanks and pitch diameter. There is an even easier way to do it properly, without requiring a taper attachment, by placing a stiff tapered pin, or even an angle gauge on the tailstock, and attaching a follower rod on the cross-slide (infeeding via the compound at any angle between the flanks like normal), to maintain pressure against it with the crosslide, while cutting away from the chuck with a left hand holder upside down (and an IR insert instead of ER in case of laydown inserts)

Nice work.

Great proof of concept. If you were cutting NPT I'd think a longer cutter would be needed so it doesn't cut a straight thread however many threads the trailing edge passes the start of the bar, but as I understand BSP usually uses straight female threads regardless, so no worries there.

Well John, I think you just broke the internet machining a pipe thread like that 😃. The thread is good for the most part, just the first two threads are no longer in a taper is all. Knock those two off and it should be good 😁. Cheers! 🍻

thanks for sharing!

Have you seen or heard about a tail stock taper adjuster. I don't how well it would work just a thought. Cheers

Before your talk, I recommend watching "how to speak mit opencourseware" on youtube -- an hour well spent for anyone. For speaking to a live audience (yes they ARE all staring at you), it may be handy to organize the thoughts and have a take-home message. ...Be ready to watch your mouth too. These bastards are all on their phones nowadays... Best of luck, and I hope you get invited back. You have a lot to offer. Besides, I'd enjoy seeing one of your talks uploaded some day :D :D

Hi from South Africa. I was wondering what the price of brass is in the UK? / kg. Regards Terry.

Good work but I don't think it is a true BSPT thread as per the spec. I think you will be an inspiring lecturer at the Technical College.

It's strange that a high-end metric lathe like a Harrison would only use an approximate method for cutting imperial threads (63 tooth gear instead of 127 tooth).

Great!

Hi John, do you not use any lubricant on your change wheels? I just got a lathe and wondering how to level and lubricate it all

Doesn't your lathe have a taper turning attachment on it ?

Time 02:15. Don't You put grease to the gears? I got grease looking like black shoe paste for my mini lathe. No problem applying the grease but exchanging those gears later.... Dirty business. What a fight! Just a nightmare. Saw a YT video, a guy putting a boring bar head in the tailstock and offsetting it. A dead center installed in the head and clear to go, like conventional threading. Adjusting the head stock.... not on my hobby machine. It will never come back to the center again. However, threading pluggs for a large steam engine boiler would be too much.

Nice.

As a dumb american, I only know about imperial threads and metric threads. Could you do an explanation on bsp and whitworth threads and how they are figured?

1,2 1,75

Cutting the taper thread would've been a lot easier, if your lathe had a taper cutting attachment.

not impressed. was expecting single point with taper attachment.Too much chatter. and fine if you have thread cutter.