My pleasure my friend! So glad I could help out.

The double belt setup is common, there is only a brake on the main driven pulley down below. I hate that they make the cover the belt keeper.

Fingers crossed for you, let me know how you make out. That issue is very common with those MTD machines.

@@patthesoundguy Problem solved!!! Thank you again!!

I'm so very glad I was able to help out. Thank you so much for the kind comment.

The brake has to be bent because even with a new spring most of the time because the brake is hung up and not contacting the belt. And as long as the spring isn't rotten I just shorten it. I don't order those springs from my supplier either. I order springs that are just like the OEM in bulk from my industrial supplier and custom bend them on each end to fit the application. I replace a lot of springs on customer machines. Especially on those MTD where the spring is exposed to the salt and crud, they usually rot off before they get stretched out

Thanks so much for watching, I appreciate the comment 👍

The cover wearing out is from the brake not working properly which is the reason for the video, MTD has not used metal in the covers for the most standard blowers they make. If the brake is set properly the auger stops pretty fast, but the idea is for the auger and impeller to not spin continually and run when you let go of the handle for safety of course but to not wear the cover. That machine the auger stopped pretty much instantly when I was done with it. So many of those machines the brake is not adjusted properly from the factory and is why they take 3 to 5 seconds to stop and that's why I adjust them so it stops faster and not wear the cover out prematurely.

@@patthesoundguy Actually, that 3 to 5 seconds is from a manual, your MTD manual should have a specification also. I also wouldn't rely much on that "brake", that engine will easily over power it if the belt got stuck for any reason. A properly adjusted belt allowed the attachments to stop even before "brakes", it just took longer. Still, kudos for taking the time to make sure it works, there are a lot of machines you'll see that don't completely disengage or stop when the dead man lever is released.

@@patthesoundguy I don't know what model that one is, so I just looked up a random MTD operator's manual, and they just have you run the blower for 10 seconds, release the lever, then walk around to the front and check, so, they aren't too concerned with a specific time, just however long it takes you to walk from the back of the machine to the front. That manuals only solution is to adjust the cable until you achieve that condition. Auger Control Test IMPORTANT: Perform the following test before operat- ing the snow thrower for the first time and at the start of each season. Check the adjustment of the auger control as follows: 1. When the auger control is released and in the disengaged "up" position, the cable should have very little slack, but should NOT be tight. WARNING: Do not over-tighten the cable. Over-tightening may prevent the auger from disengaging and compromise the safety of the snow thrower. 2. In a well-ventilated area, start the snow thrower engine as instructed earlier in this section under the heading Starting Engine. Make sure the throttle is set in the FAST position. 3. While standing in the operator's position (behind the snow thrower) engage the auger. 4. Allow the auger to remain engaged for approximately ten (10) seconds before releasing the auger control. Repeat this several times. 5. With the engine running in the FAST position and the auger control in the disengaged "up" position, walk to the front of the machine. 6. Confirm that the auger has completely stopped rotating and shows NO signs of motion. IMPORTANT: If the auger shows ANY signs of rotating, immediately return to the operator's position and shut off the engine. Wait for all moving parts to stop before readjusting the auger control cable as shown in the "Setup And Adjustment" section on page 7.

I have repaired and adjusted a lot of those brakes because I find so many of them wearing the cover and just running when they shouldn't. Just MTD poor set up from the factory. They also often need the drive speeds adjusted as well because they move too fast in first gear and then they don't go fast enough in reverse.

Yes sir. Its worth checking it out. Just because it's new doesn't mean that the brake isn't adjusted correctly. 😉 is it an MTD machine?

Trevor Lane and thank you for the comment/question btw. 😀

Ok! So, I adjusted the clutch cable and tested it before I watched your video. No dice. I watched your whole video and at the end you mentioned that the cover has to be back on; I tested it without the cover on. Went out again after supper, put the cover on, and BAM. It works as intended. Much thanks, man! :) Great video!

Trevor Lane Sweet! Glad I could help. More videos to come. 😀

Very likely you can fix it with this video. Even if it's not an MTD many machines have a brake that works in a similar way. Also if you don't have the proper belt like a fractional horsepower belt on your blower it will run all the time because the proper belts will behave in such a way that they spring out away from the drive pulley. A worn out belt or fractional hp belt will have no spring left and will drag on the pulley when you let go of the handle.

Timmy Joe PC Tech thanks for watching dude 😀 more videos to come

Well that's great, but for me I'll keep pulling the spark plug wire because then I know for sure that it's 100 percent not going to be an issue. Can't trust wiring on a machine you don't own and when instructing people for DIY I would rather have people pull the spark plug wire, it's just another easy thing to make it never be an issue. I know how unlikely there would ever be a problem but when it's so simple why not do it.