I really appreciate that you post the good, the bad and the ugly! Keeping it real!!

John the way you originally tried setting up @ 60 degrees BTDC would have been if you were using one pulse per fire like a 4 magnet or 8 pulse trigger in a distributor. This is where Digital Rising and Digital Falling come into play. If the sensor see's the edge of a gap, this triggers the sensor in Falling, if the sensor see's the edge of tooth, it triggers in Rising. To setup using the 12-1 you set TDC Tooth Number in the software to 10. Put #1 @ TDC and put the wheel so the 10th magnet after the missing magnet is at the sensor. Remember the software/sensor cannot pickup a missing magnet, it picks up the magnet. You also have to setup the cam sync correctly, typically 110-250 degrees before TDC on the compression stroke. If you don't have the cam sensor setup correctly it won't run either. With everything setup, disable the injectors, stick the timing light on #1 and crank it over, you should see correct timing on the balancer. Enable the injectors and go do burnouts.

just watched the race that the ring and pinion went South, great video, congrats on the win against beer money. Noone wants to win when their buddy breaks, but you guys earned that one. Thanks for sharing all the content! 👍🏽

Love this information. We did our 36-1 and a MSD flying magnet never could get either one of them to run ending up going back to the 24 Tooth on the crankshaft. Found out the reason why ours was popping was the shielded cable I ended up re-shielding it with makeshift aluminum foil. It’s still running that way. Never have fixed it properly

Hopefully you see this boss 12-1 with a 1x cam gear on the front drive should solve your issues. Sucks to take it apart but all the cam sync does is tell the holley when its at tdc on the power stroke

Should be able to put a timing light on #1, unplug the injector harness, and verify that base timing is in fact what the computer is commanding. (while cranking)

John I think you need to set the cam sync at 195 *BTC with mine i did the same thing crank reference at 60* BTDC then you have to add 135* plus your crank reference angle of 60 +135=195 BTDC. you could do 45* BTDC for crank reference but you still need to add the 135* BTDC for the cam sync so in this instance it would be 45+135= 175 BTDC you need to have cam sync 135 BTDC my 2 cents buddy

I received my tj shirt exactly like you are wearing in this video. I love it considering my name is tj it’s perfect. Thanks again and love the channel.

Do this a lot. Spent 2 days following the Holley diagnostics saying way crank sensor issue on the Dart block (20th block first issue). Later found it was cam signal the whole time. Modified the sensor from touching reluctor and then backed it out with feelers before check the cam sensor. The diag they say is a crank sensor issue, is explained by white as cam sensor error that usually is cause by the crank.

The 4 tooth cam signal will only work with the 58 tooth crank signal. To run the front trigger a single tooth cam gear will have to be fitted. I'm pretty sure the magnet will also have to be remitted for it to run. The signal from the cam is what is used to tell the computer when it's at TDC

You should have run it in batch fire off of the 12-1 wheel to verify it is the cam signal type causing an issue.But I am fairly sure that is your issue

John sounds kinda frustrated at the end but if it was easy everyone would be doing it. Good video! Have a good holiday weekend

I disconnect the injectors and use a timing light to see if it fires where commanded during cranking. So if I see it say 15 btdc on number one (sometimes I check other cylinders to ) then it should fire after connecting the injector harness back up.

Like the content and that you post the problems when dealing with these hotrods. You ever get the 12-1 wheel working on this car? The 58x setup has a reference angle of 78.5 degrees if that matters. That would put the 12-1 wheel a roughly 2.5 teeth. I believe on the 4x cam signal the holley only reference the first small tooth. Look at the "crank and cam sensor setup special cases where they talk about the 4x tooth being referenced.

Some advice, next time your trying to do a fresh startup put a timing light on it to see what the spark is actually doing. Also non-missing tooth setups work, haven’t done much with Holley so unsure them but a majority of aftermarket ecu’s will run a non missing tooth setup with cam sync for full sequential fine.

I’ve seen post on many LS groups to run the crank sensor from an ls9 or lsa because they are longer and work in the dart block

When I'm setting up a car I always run a timing light to actually see when it's firing #1

Sure makes the old double magneto seem simple enough 😎. The struggle is real. You need cam reference seems like.

Want to see more of that car

I don’t know if Holley could do it too but I had ms3 gold box with an ls motor 24x crank 4x cam it did the exactly same thing I ended up turning off sequential and running it in batch cop and it worked great I didn’t know if it ignoring the cam sensor was a viable option or not but besides fuel smell at idle it ran great

The ls9 crank sensor is a little bit longer than the standard 58x sensor.

MAAAN!!! TJ, I’ve watched you get several different things up & running REALLY WELL. When it comes to the laptop & tunes I put you up there with the elites but this thing is WHOOPN YOUR ASS😝😝😝🤷🏼‍♂️🤷🏼‍♂️😝😝😝

If it was easy everyone would be doing it.

I belive you can not do that. A modified or "broken" 12 tooth wheel is not compareble to a 36-1 or 60-2 wheel that really are made for wastedspark setups, and those do not need a camshaft sensor. ;) It does not matter which one of the two sparkplugs on a WS coil that fire which cylinder, right? A 12 tooth crankwheel needs either a distributor to fire the right sparkplug or a simple sensor on the camshaft to inform the ECU if the crank is on the first 360 degrees or the second 360 degrees of the 4 stroke cycle . The ecu can not fire the correct cylinder without knowing if the engine is on the frist 360 degees or the last 360 degrees? You definitely need a normal trigger wheel, camshaft sensor or a distributor. The point of using a 12 tooth wheel over standard trigger with 4 tooth is to inform the ecu more closely about crankshaft position at any given time. This improves accuracy espesially when the rpm is accellerating very fast.

LS Nasty had a problem like this, and Shannon from BBR helped them! They had to mod the cam gear with something! #TURBOJOHN💪💪💪💪#BLOODBATHRACING💪💪💪 #TEAM💯💯💯

Put the magnet back in 11 is an odd number. Ecu will not find home that way. 12 crank +1 cam that’s how it would find home. Or get a crank trigger with a missing tooth. Like a 36-2

I think twelve flying magnets are 3 times better than 4 flying magnets but probably worse than 36-1 or 60-2 reluctor wheels (360/12) 30, (360/36) 10, and (360/60) 6 crankshaft degrees rotation resolution. Curious on opinions of best camshaft trigger design...jesel single magnet...reluctor wheels/different designs...is a cut up distributor good enough for ___rpm??

👍🏽👍🏽 great info

Why would you remove one of the magnets? You don’t remove one on the MSD flying magnet setup. The others use only spacing and these wheels have spacing and magnetic aspect and you tell it where it’s located with the Holley. It should have fired with the cam sync turned off.

More than likely you have a 4x cam gear you have to switch to a 1x ls2 can gear and sensor

I know it's too late but it's slow. But I know you know that. When I get my ls Holley terminater x it will kick my but too.

12-1 is the best imo!

droppin knowledge, you freaking nerd... lol... very good info... stay safe John...

Who makes them wheels that he is running on that Dodge Challenger? Bogart?, Even though I'm a diehard Chevy fan I've always had a soft spot for the old school Challenger's especially the I think it's the 70 or 71 might be 72 AAR Challenger the one that is the same body style as the one he has but they have the very sleek looking front clip and grilles in the car I've always wanted to take a clone AAR and turn it into a big tire car or a radial car but either way it has to sit level and low to the ground but anyway with all that extra weight he's carrying around on the front end of his car he shouldn't have to worry about that car trying to power wheelie unless he really puts some steam to it especially straight off the hit then it might get up there

I can't watch this without getting P/O. Hate the Ls in a Mopar. A travesty.

exactly why more electronics more problems Carbs carbs carbs

Are you running a 4x or 1x cam gear on this?

Just so you know, it will not have a clue where there is no magnet. It will only sense a magnet! It will miss the place between . You have to tell it . Garbage in , Garbage out.

Kool-aid

360 divided by 12 is 30 degrees not 60. the magnet you removed is 30 not 60

Hey John Leave the 12 magnets in there and run a single pickup on the cam pulley Your setup can’t tell you if it’s firing on power strock

24 is better