The amplifier would run to a crossover network which then runs the midrange driver and the tweeter. If you have only 4 speakers total, meaning 2 tweeters and two midbass drivers with no rear speakers, you can run Channel 3 and 4 to the tweeters themselves but have the gain way down. This is known as bi-amplification.

@moddingpc Component speakers are generally used to created a full range of audio. This is done with the use of crossovers which filter out frequencies that are not favorable to each driver so that the driver is not producing unwanted frequencies and thus becoming distorted. With the ability to mount the tweeter right next to the bass driver you are able to have all sound hit your ears at the same time which creates better sound staging in your vehicle.

Yes, typically when installing a set of component speakers you will need to use one crossover per set to filter out any harmful frequencies.

@5heeshi I'd like to clarify, as I'm not familiar with triaxial myself. If you mean a three way component, or a three way coaxial, they will both work. 4 speakers + a sub will work fine. You have to consider the power handling of the speakers you choose to know if you'll need an amp for them, of if you can just run them off of your factory radio. If you want to run the speakers off of a factory head unit, ensure that they require a low amount of power handling, around 35W RMS per speaker.

@561buRnz407 To clarify, a LOT of component speakers require external amplification if not most. Coaxials sometimes don't require amplification, as they require low power (Around 35WRMS) As kevin10r corrected, most aftermarket headunits only push around 20W RMS. Factory radios push much less, maybe around 5-10W RMS at the most? If your components require 50W RMS or more, I would surely recommend an amplifier for your door speakers as well. 35W-45W RMS is pretty safe to run off of a deck.

Typically a set of components that have the same specifications as a coaxial version will distort less, due to the woofer cone having more mobility since the tweeter is mounted separately. Component speakers also give you much more versatility in installation, allowing you to direct the tweeters toward you to improve sound imaging.

Yes, the KS65.2's will sound great on a rear deck and will produce a fair amount of mid-bass. Great question!

Components sound so much clearer and more alive. High range frequencies don't do well with a lot of reflections so mounting your tweeters in a place that will hit you before it comes in contact with these reflections is invaluable.

If you are going for Rainbow Speakers you should definitely get a component set and amplify them. Components allow you to place your tweeters and mid range drivers anywhere you want so you can make your sound staging how you want. This means, if you install them correctly, your music could sound like it is coming from the dash and not the floor.

Most component sets do come with crossovers. You would want crossovers because they give each speaker the correct signal for the best performance. Also, you would want to use an amp to get the best sound out of them.

Of course you can. You can purchase 2 sets of the same component speaker system (4 tweeters and 4 mid range) and run a pair in the front and the back. Higher end vehicles use that type of setup.

Just bought a Kenwood stereo from these dudes, super nice on the phone. Got a new pair of Polk DB651's. I was Youtubing how to install the car speakers, and this popped up. Stoked.

Yeah, you can replace them without changing the head unit. We'd recommend picking up a pair of low wattage 6-1/2" speakers like Boston Acoustics SE65, and a pair of bass blockers like PAC BB-1PR.

Yes, if you unplug the tweeter, you could put coaxial speakers in the doors if they fit. Make sure to check the depth of the new speaker and new tweeter built into it, you dont want it to hit your factory grills.

Different speakers can play different frequencies more efficiently. Capacitors come in different sizes to filter out different frequencies.

Most coaxial speakers have the tweeter pre-wired to the midrange driver with a crossover built-in. It is best not to tamper with them. Consider purchasing a pair of Coaxial speakers that come with crossovers or a removable tweeter.

You may wire a pair of the TS-D1602R's in parallel down to 2 ohms for 1 channel, and a second pair wired the same way for the second channel. You may then run each TS-A6974R to the remaining two channels at 4ohms. Be very careful doing this, because the lower impedance your speakers run at, the more power they will be receiving. Adjust your gain levels with care.

For the price they can't be beat, people love them!

Honestly, they are both going to sound good. If you can only fit coaxial speakers and don't want to cut tweeter pods into your doors, then go with coaxial. If you already have stock component speakers, then go for a new pair of component speakers.

Thanks for this informative video. Looks like I'm gonna go Coaxial in my car.

You can make custom locations in the pillars and the door panels but this will obviously require a lot more work and is usually left to professional installers. If you're just looking for a quick install then go with a coaxial set. If you're trying to get the best sound quality possible then go with the componet set.

The Infinity Reference Series is great, so is the Rockford P1 series of speakers. Your Polk DB series is an excellent choice as well.

My Jeeps infinity gold had 4 tweeters, and 6 coaxial speakers. Well it’s 20 years old and they wouldn’t work to play music from my new radio and phone so I just replaced the speakers and it’s good enough

Can't go wrong for the price they sound very very very good!!

The RCA connectors are meant to go to external amplifiers, not the speakers. If you don't have external amplifiers, then the wiring harness on the stereo will connect to your speakers.

Thank you. I didnt know the difference.

Polk Audio makes some very nice door speakers as well as tweeters. You have a 6" x 9" opening in the front doors, and a 6-1/2" opening in the rear doors. You may go with a component set and use the mid-woofers as door replacements to work along side of your new tweeters, or you may go with coaxial speakers for a total of 4 woofers and 8 tweeters. Check out our website to view our selection of Polk Audio speakers.

yeah I did that for my kicker Ks Components because my factory tweeters was to small so I mounted my tweeter to the speaker and sounds much better than just the regular coaxial's

You need mids for the midbass. You can run a 3-way setup to have a midbass driver, midrange driver, and tweeter.

First off thanks for you response. This is a tentative set up for now & subject to change. Lanzar MX46 240W 4" Max Series 2-way Coaxial Spkr 4 ohm Lanzar MX63 200 W 6 ½ Max Series 3-Way Coaxial Spkr 4 ohm Lanzar MAXP64 600W 6 ½ Sub Woofer 4 Ohm Unfortunetly, I can't find the actual RMS for ea & reviews are scarce. Looking for @ 50 RMS set up. So I don't know where or how a 4 way crossover would fit in, if it fits. Thanks for you help and the videos... Very Helpful!!!

@jenuelpr The best place is the kick panel, it is closer to the wiring coming from the door and its also in a more secure spot. Its never really a good idea to put external crossover inside the door panel, the door is constantly opening and closing and it can cause the crossovers to fall. So the best location is the kick panel.

They should be okay if they get a little wet. As long as they are marine certified. And as far as the polarity goes you are correct. You would definitely want to fix that though.

If you vehicles uses 6"x9" speakers, you can use 6-1/2" speakers without problems, just make sure you have a speaker adapter to convert the size to 6-1/2".

Because they are 4 Ohms and not 2 Ohms, the Rockford Fosgate T1 6.6 Coaxials will only be receiving a total of 40 watts RMS from the Hifonics Zeus ZXi40.4 when they require 100 Watts per speaker.

Coaxials are definitely the best for the money!

Go with speakers that have a bright tweeter such as Aluminum or Titanium. Run ported enclosures that are built specifically for the subwoofers you are running and use a lot of clean power without clipping the signal, and you will be good.

The Hifonics will work, but it will actually slightly underpower the Rockford Fosgate T1 6.5". In our opinion, you would be better off with a little more power. We recommend the NVX JAD800.4 to achieve the Rockford Fosgates' maximum performance.

What if my car already has a separate tweeter? Would I then only need just the mid-range speaker without the crossover?

With tweeters mounted up higher toward your ears you will get much better imaging than if you simply had coaxial speakers in the doors.

@pleeeeep You certainly can. Some good options are the Boston Acoustics SE60 speakers. These 6-1/2" speakers don't require an amp and can be driven with a factory head unit. Personally I would recommend an aftermarket head unit for much better overall performance from the speakers, but it can work either way.

Honestly, it is always better to amp component speakers to get the best sound quality out of them. You can use a 4-channel amp to run the components and a mono-block amp for the sub. Or you can get a 5-Channel amp to run it all since you have limited space in a truck.

That amp is not too bad, you might also want to look into Hifonics Brutus and NVX Audio on our website.

You could tap into your current wire using T-taps but it is always advised to run new wire.

Component for the front definitely. As for the back, most people just get coaxial speakers and call it a day. Your passengers won't be able to tell and the rear speakers are just for fill anyway. If you are considerate of your passengers, then get component speakers all around.

You don't NEED an amplifier, but if you really want those speakers to sound how they were meant to sound, you should definitely amplify them. You can keep your rear speakers stock and amplify those, just keep the gain down.

i have 4 of the kicker ks600's and they're clear as crystal. love em!

If you get a true 3 way system where each speaker is separate, 3 speakers for each side, then you would have to modify your door panels to use them. If you get a 3-way full range speaker, you could transfer it to your other vehicle, but if your vehicle has tweeters that are separate, you will have to disable them or it could sound weird. It is your call.

It won't damage the speakers, but you should have them all in the correct phase. They should all be going the same "direction" or the will sound will be negatively affected.

Nope, it is a component speaker set up (4in & a tweeter) attached to a pod - [Jeep Wrangler Driver Pass Dash Speaker Pod RH LH 02-06 OEM - on Ebay] - mine look kinda different OEM. I have OEM 4x6 adapter plates that can be fit over the pods for strength if I have to use them. I will take them off nextg week, snap a picture & post them for your reference. Still undecided what speaker to use.

Each channel on an amplifier is designed to power one speaker. Your speakers RMS power should closely match the RMS power of the amplifier powering them. If it says 100W x 4 Chan, that means each channel on that amplifier outputs 100 watts, for a total of 400 watts. If you find speakers that are 100W RMS each, that would be perfect. Your RMS power doesn't exactly have to match up. It is always best to over power a little bit.

Yes you could but you need to make sure you unplug those tweeters or they will discolor your music. Having 4 tweeters and two midbass drivers will sound weird.

There won't be a dramatic loudness difference between the two, but the 3 way will emphasize the highs a little bit more.

They are much better than your stock speakers.

We apoligize we thought you meant 1 set of each speaker. If this is the case then it would not be a good idea because you will create different ohm loads by connecting more then one speaker to one channel.

@TheGuyWhoDidUrM0M You'll need to get warranty service for the speakers. I'm not sure of a manual way to replace the crossover, unless you order a replacement from Alpine directly. As far as the comparison of speakers, unfortunately these awesome 356CS speakers were only on closeout and they're completely discontinued and no longer available. The SPR-50C is a great set, however!

An amplifier is always preferred, as most headunits do not output enough power to run these speakers to their potential.

Yeah, just make sure to get two Single 4 ohm woofers (10c154) and wire them to a 2 ohm final impedance.

Each speaker should have its own power source. Once you wire speakers together on the same wire, you change the impedance and power that each speaker gets, so you could end up damaging your radio or making the system more quiet. You should get an amplifier.

These are passive crossovers so they don't need their own power source. The amplified signal comes from the amp. [AMPLIFIER] --> [CROSSOVERS] --> [SPEAKER/TWEETER]

My kiker 6 3/4 coaxial that i put on my silverado 4 doors sounds bad ass.. I think if you're going to have a strong sound system . Component speakers are the way to go. But if you just want to up grade your sound system coaxial is the way to go. I just added the kiker coaxial and added a soundstreem 6.5 inch screen for Bluetooth and dvd. Sounds just right. My silverado is an 08 and it doesn't have on the entertainment part on the radio side. That's why I got the soundstreem radio. But the coaxial sound really good. I'm not into adding subs. These are just perfect

You should use a 4-channel amp if you are going to amplify any other door speakers with those. I you're not going to do that, then the Jensen would be fine.

Coaxial is generally better because the sound source comes from a single point giving a better stereo image, but, coaxial's sitting on the floor don't help with imaging. Raising the tweeters off the floor (using components) will help the imaging in an automotive application. The best of both worlds would be to get the tweeter to play as much of the spectrum as possible by using a low crossover point. This means you also need a tweeter with high power handling and large diaphragm.

Anything like Focal, DLS, Boston Accoustics.

just got the JBL GTO component, great deal u guys have there.

you need a pair of subs for the bass you have plenty of room for it in a hatchback get 2 subs and you can get it installed for around 400-500 and get a 100 dollar radio

We've come a long way

How do your wires look? If the signal RCA cables are cheap or passing too close to the power wires you can get that additional harshness . But if your stuff (HU / AMP / SPKRS) are new or good, then look over your connections and maybe the signal / speaker wires to see if they are too thin or being pinched anywhere that creates some sort of feedback.

Why I’m watching in 2020

Awesome, Awesome video describing the coax and components. I cant wait to order my components from you guys.

Kenneth Ochoa - yes cuz you want to mount the tweeters closer to you that's if you like crisp sound!

You technically want the mid and high as close as possible for the correct sound staging.

Yes you can just make sure to disconnect the factory tweeter.

Speaker installations are rarely direct fit with OEM gear. Are you sure they are not 4x6" speakers in the lower dash?

I have the 2004 Kicker ks6.5 component set in my 05 Silverado single cab got both band new a few months a part

Sir Nice video ..... Plz make video difference between home speakers v/s car speakers

You really should amplify any components to get the most potential out of them. The SRQ's will not sound good off of purely deck power.

Yeah some guy hooked up my supertweeter with the same cables connected to my 5 1/4 and those tweeters blew. But now my system is like 50% lower then its originality. Even with the subs hooked up I still have to turn it up 20% higher then usual

im wanting to add some component speakers to my ford ranger down at the kick panels gonna get custom kick panels so i can. will i have to run new speaker wire to my head unit or could i just tap into the current door speaker with like t-taps or something like that? thanks

That calls for another question, is it better to hav the tweeter facing the windshield so you'll get a sound which u can't tell where it's comin from, or face the tweeter towards u?

@brett2002ranger I'm sure you already have it figured out by now but you could just tap into your existing speakers, although the more professional way would be to run it to your head unit. Unfortunately it's extremely hard to remove the head unit from the dash on a lot of newer vehicles, so in some cases tapping into the signal to your existing speakers would be required unless you got it done professionally.

@muscleammo Yes, you will most definatly need a crossover or even a tweeter filter.

I’m putting components front with tweeters and crossovers and coaxials at the back as there’s only 4 speakers in my car and 2 tweeters at the front fn2 type r going to add mini amp and underwear subwoofer

This video is a great introduction for audio novices like me. Thanks!

Can you be more specific? which speakers and sub do you own?

Absolutely.

Sounds easy dude, just get something to directly replace according to size. Since you don't have that much power (about 12 Watts rms) per channel, you can go with speakers rated at 150 Watts max or less. The brands you may come across would be Polk ,Infinity reference,Phoenix Gold, Digital Design,Jbl, Pioneer, Rockford fosgate, sony or orion (take your pick in that order). You may want to avoid focal, jl audio, infinity kappa, alpine or mb quart as they need amplifier power to really sound good.

@blink1223 What you will need is a 4-channel Line-Out Converter. This will allow you to use your speakers wires as hi-level inputs that you would connect to your speakers to your vehicle without messing with the factory dash or the need to upgrade or change your headunit. This would be the best way to go. Something like the Cache COE6 should do the trick.

Excellent guide! 10/10 perfect! :)

Sorry, I ran out of characters before I could say that any help is appreciated. Thank you so much in advance.

l think component speakers are better even thought they are more cumbersome. reason l think this, is because the cheaper coaxial speakers do not have a built in x-over so the same power going to the mid bass driver is the same power going to the tweeter. there are a lot of people who don't know the difference and, they buy the cheap speakers because they still sound good but at higher volumes those tweeters will be working for there pay checks. component speakers don't need a x-over if you power them with there own independent amp, but that is another amp you don't need.

@TheAkshay0021 mids are the same as woofers but some people called them mid-woofers , woofers or just mids

Well if you're going to buy a component system and put the tweeter right in the middle, isnt it the same as buying a coaxial speaker?

They are a good speaker. You'll be happy with them.

Thumbs up:) Very helpful and clarified my questions 100 % :)Thank you

Thanks for this! - I recently bought a second handed Celica. Sadly the HU was pretty sad, so I already had it swapped for a new pioneer deh-x5500bt. However, I soon noticed, when raising the volume, that one of the stock speakers was dying. So, time to replace those as well. Since this is my first car, and I'm a poor college student, I need something affordable, but good. I was looking at the Polk db6501 up front, and the db651 coaxial in the back. Are there some other things I should look at?

Useful video, but my doubt is that many people in my country will change their after market speakers as component system in the front and co axial speakers in the back , I don’t understand what’s the reason that they retain the coaxial type of in the rear and component speaker type in the front , hopefully you answer my query . Thanks

Hello I got a question here, If I already installed a amplifier to my car, does my car still need component speaker?

Thanks I'm going to order mine today :-)

Informative, thank you!

My car has stock tweeters. Should i get coaxial speakers or component speakers?