Good job Brad! MUCH better with 'western' pots! - And soldered to the board via leads now! Perfect!

Hi Brad, I've had several of these mini drills and can recommend the following: 0) Proxxon Aluminium oxide cutting discs with reinforcement. They're a bit flexible and just don't break. 1) Proxxon IBS/E. 130 bucks at Amazon. May seem a bit expensive but it is much more substantial and durable than the cheaper Proxxon products, let alone the Dremel. It also comes standard with a set of collets which are way better than a drill chuck. Wouldn't want to miss it any more. 2) Proxxon Long Neck Angle Grinder LHW/E. Even more expensive. Lucky cheap find on Ebay, bearings seem shot, very noisy, no longer much in the way of speed control but still kicks ass. It takes 50mm abrasive cutoff wheels and an adapter to use those on the IBS/E (or even the Dremel) is easily made on any kind of lathe. Which would of course be totally unsafe and all. They even have 80 and 85mm wheels for use on a stationary machine that evil peoplle couls abuse on an angle grinder. They even have a low speed, high torque version of the long neck angle grinder ('angle polisher') as well as one with a collet holder known as longneck mill/drill. Don't know if those are sold in the States.

Hi Brad, FYI, about russian resistors markings. 470 or 470 Ом means 470 Ohms, so as K47 or 470 without letters. 4K7 or 4,7 кОм means 4.7 kOhms, 1M2 or 1,2 МОм means 1.2 megaOhms. C2-25 are high precision resistors, МЛТ with any digit are usual film resistors, a digit means its power in Watts, МЛТ-0,25 are 1/4 Watts for example. Sincerely, Alexander from Moscow, Russia:)

PS, rather than stress the potentiometer (heat from friction, and mechanical stress to the shaft as the rotating cutting wheel causes the shaft to spin hard in the opposite direction right up against its' stops), I suggest that you hold the pot shaft with a narrow set of needle nose pliers or small vice grips or something like that, rather than clamping the body of the pot (however gently) into a vise. That way, the heat from the cutting wheel is absorbed by the needlenose or other pliers which will act like a heat sink; or, at the very least, clip an alligator clip on to the shaft closest to the pot body to act as a heat sink. Remember that modern potentiometers typically have a disc of nylon or similar plastic crimped to the back end of the potentiometer shaft, and holding the metal fingers for the wiper. it wouldn't take much heat or stress to damage that nylon disc, making the entire wiper assembly wobble loosely on the shaft. Cutting an aluminum potentiometer shaft short isn't too bad in the heat-generating department, but cutting a steel pot will definitely generate a large amount of heat for sure.

A quality blade on a Jewellers piercing saw would make light work of pot shafts. No air blowing dust from dremel and very little heat.

what is the reference for the replacement pot please? thanks

I dont understand your references to WD40 and Lubricant type oils. WD40 is a solvent meant to remove like rust and break up parts that are locked up due to rust not lubricate them. One example is a customer removed grease sleeves on Ujoints and their covers and was using WD40 instead. Of course he burnt the joints up in a few mins of operation. Just an thought. Love your channel.

Boy if OSHA sees you drilling a hole in your hand , they have rules ,and I think you broke several,hahahaha,be carefully bro, those are your music makers .! Good job on the repair ,those amps are getting to be classics.Peace. .

Just picked up a mig 50. Bad mid pot. Gonna replace the whole lot. And do exactly what you did. Can you please give me values and suggestions on what to purchase in regards to new pots? And perhaps a good video or website to learn about how to read them/basic schematic reading

Thanks!

Those pots... genuine junk. Plus I'm sittin' here staring at you cutting that pot shaft and almost thinking outloud: "Gee Brad, aren't you a'scared that that weeny cutting wheel will shatter?" when PRESTO (!) cheers

No VSR drill motor?

1980s/90s- era Dremel tools work better than the modern ones. Buy a couple of them at the flea markets or online so that you can swap parts and make one good one or keep it running for a long time. I doubt you can get original parts for those oldies from Dremel anymore! For what it's worth, I was pretty much born with a Dremel tool in my hand it seems (I was grinding automobile dashboards to fit new radios and cassette decks for many years starting in the 1980s), perhaps I should have been a dentist! *. I actually had a Triamplified system with a home built subwoofer cabinet in my car around 1984, with a Nakamichi 250 cassette deck and a blaupunkt Frankfurt for FM. *"Is it safe?"

Huh-huh-huh! He said shaft size. Heh-heh-heh!

what's that white goop on the big black capacitors?

Dig that "pinko" potentiometer!

Good old Dremel. Lots of rotations per minute. Almost no torque.

dirty bastard! get yer mind outta the gutter, y0! LoL