Yeah, kinda

Guess I'll see if I can follow his guidance in trouble shooting what's going on with my freezer on my refrigerator this afternoon.

Door light switch pressed how many times to get acknowledgment beeps? How many to start?

Forget? I had no idea it was ever a thing!

Mine was completely blocked by dust.

If your evaporator coils were loaded with frost/ice, you have a defrost issue, either defrost thermostat/heater/defrost timer (mechanical or computer controlled)

The tray with water does it needs to empty?

@@merlicacelestine7821 no the fan moves air across that tray which is expected to have some water in it and the fan air movement causes it to evaporate into the room. Just clean it out of any crap dust and hair

Leaf blower.

Those electric defrost heaters can burn out, so don't be surprised if you end up replacing the heater because it recurs. Board problems and wiring issues can do the same thing, so I would check your manual for a resistance spec on the heater to try and verify it is bad. The other thing to check is that drain shown in the video, to be sure it is not blocked. Melted water needs a way out before the defrost cycle ends. Good luck!

@@spelunkerd thank you for your reply.

Thank your FBI agent

Mike Fortuna 😂🤣

Most higher end fridges have a defrost cycle that can go bad, too. Older units had a mechanical timer that could get stuck, and new units have the defrost cycle built into the board. When defrost fails, ice builds up and can plug the drain, which causes a cascade of secondary problems. The defrost element is usually a resistance heater, often with its own fuse, and that also can fail. If the thermostat is surrounded by ice, it won't feedback an accurate temp so the system could underperform even when not in the defrost cycle. You're doing the right thing by cleaning it up, getting rid of ice, and making sure the drain is clear. Then plug it back in and hope for the best.

I did another video of a bad shaded pole motor in an oven, where I swap it out and explain how it works. Genius design, easy to work with. If you get frozen ice around the fan blades the fan could seize, then work OK after defrost. If automatic defrost isn't working you might check out the electric defrost element. Defrost timers can fail, the element itself can go bad, and that branch of the system often has a fuse.

Thanks

Question, after removing the ice off the coils put all back together,,, the fridge has been running all night and is still hot in both the fridge and freezer, the fan is running non stop, last year the control board was replaced, any in-Site what my problem may be? COMPRESSOR Bad? Tks..

Ya i needa figure mine out.

Cleaning the condenser once a year is about right...more often if you have dogs or cats.😁

It's not too good on the starting run either when them coils get dirty

@@crazyamericangamer7036 what is your fridge doing or not doing

@@roycehunt854 I’m trying to figure out what is going on with my Frigidaire side by side. I’ve watched numerous videos. It’s flashing H1 on freezer side. Slowly stopped making ice. Water works fine. Freezer will not freeze food or ice cream. Refrigerator seems to be ok. I’ve cleaned all coils and underneath. Back wall in freezer was frozen when I took panel off and bottom of freezer tray had ice. I unplugged, and defrosted freezer with blow dry. Damper seems fine. Cold hair blowing to both sides. I’m lost! I don’t really want to have to call a service man, I can’t afford to! Was hoping someone reads this and is able to help

Good luck... your going to need it(LG are junk)

Wow

An amazing city, and an even more amazing culture. I have had the privilege to visit Delhi twice, decades ago.

I can’t find the part of the compressor. All of the tubes are cold. Wtf?

Both ends will be cold if the compressor is not running, so then the challenge is to decide why. The compressor will have safety cutoffs if the freon charge is too low or too high. Unfortunately domestic fridges don't often come with Shrader valves to measure pressure. I'd be looking for simple things, like verifying you have power on and the switch inside the fridge on, then move to a circuit drawing to decide what controls power delivery. You can quickly assess the compressor by disconnecting it from power, then check resistance and check for a short to ground on each of the three windings. Look for blown fuses. Unfortunately the cost of replacing a major problem like a bad compressor may be more than the cost of a new fridge.

spelunkerd Thanks for the answer! According to the technician, the compressor is not getting any power from the motherboard (the brain of the fridge).

M

I’m having the exact same issue with the same fridge. What did you do to fix it?

Absolutely true, Wyatt! When you put a wattmeter onto a fridge, it is surprising how much energy they consume. Anybody with Scottish roots should jump at the chance to save cash.

Well maybe not precisely save but rather redirect to sailing solutions.

That's a valid concern. Unfortunately domestic fridges don't have Schrader valves to easily measure pressures, so if a tech wants to measure pressure he needs to puncture the line and install a valve on at least one side. That is beyond the scope of most DIY homeowners. Here in Canada, because of environmental concerns, homeowners don't have access to the correct refrigerant without a license. The cost for that kind of professional repair of any refrigerant leak will be hundreds of dollars. I would carefully walk through the diagnostic steps shown, especially looking at the door seal very carefully. If the door doesn't fit perfectly square, fix it. I show how to adjust an out of square door in another video titled 'freezer frost repair'. Don't forget to look for simple solutions. If the steps shown in this video don't show a problem, you face the dilemma of whether to pay a guy to fix it rather than buying another. Many homeowners decide to save that money for a new appliance....

@@spelunkerd thank you so much for the thoughtful response! I did find information on using a piercing valve and gauge to measure/refill the refrigerant, but without the tools on hand decided not to go that route. The door is sealing well and there is not much dust buildup (I cleaned it out a year or two ago and we don't have any pets), and the fans, compressor, and refrigerator damper flap all appear to be functioning. The refrigerator (a Maytag MBF2256HEQ) came with the house when we bought it in 2012 and as I recall was manufactured in 2005. Thankfully, we had enough in emergency savings to cover a new refrigerator, so we ended up giving the old one to a neighbor who wanted a "garage fridge" for storing drinks, and we bought a new one for our home (an LG LFDS22520S, in case you're curious).