What a way to start my Friday down here -- a sincere thank you to you! And we sure are out of beautiful Oregon as well, hopefully that's always the case because it's fantastic :)

Thank you as well!

I'm glad it was helpful! And as the person out doing most of the work on these shoots, I'm with you on the sun, I'd prefer it not shining at the camera or me too lol -- we try to schedule filming for partly cloudy days, but it's Oregon so we're never really sure what we're going to get. Checked out a couple of your videos on building microcampers, and wow! Very nice work, I want to try my hand at one of these, amazing channel you have there.

Very good question! My personal general rule of thumb for larger plants is in getting water to all sides of the root zone -- a spray type emitter like you're considering is one option. I use a couple on some very thirsty plants I have. Adding more drippers can also get the job done -- having multiple emitters surround a plant does a pretty good job at getting water to all sides of the root zone. If the soil is particularly loose/fast draining, I tend to lean towards, well not a sprayer, but an area coverage emitter type. The Adjustable Drippers on 6" stake have an umbrella pattern that works well with larger potted plants -- you can orient it so none of the "spokes" in the umbrella are hitting the trunk of the plant. One last option is to use 1/4" drip line or similar, and form it into a ring in the pot around the plant. There's also specialty emitter types made for this exact application, like the Netafim Netbow and Primerus Pot Dripper Ring, if you prefer to stick to a drip rather than area coverage :) Thank you for the great question Kathryn!

Awesome choice in peppers! As a fellow pepper fan, I grow mine with drippers (1/4" drip line to be specific) rather than spray :)

@@dripdepot i am following your examples, and have way too many peppers to eat, so i have been giving them away to neighbors.... but i feel, or they are looking like i am over watering them, for an adult plant, what GPH do you recommend? I have been ising 2 gal, on 1/4 line, and 2 drippers per plant.

@@dirtyd1398 Well it definitely sounds like you're doing something right since you have enough to give away! A poor yield is actually one of the signs of overwatering, so it's a good sign you're getting a good yield :) Many symptoms of overwatering are similar to underwatering which can make it a bit of a challenge to identify what is going on, but look for yellowing leaves and wilting leaves. Both of those are symptoms of overwatering. Specific to overwatering can be a blossom end rot, basically this is dark, sunken spots on the end of the fruit. Pale and uneven coloring can also be a sign of overwatering. If you do have a few of those symptoms, you could try lowering the watering cycle a bit -- 2.0 GPH drippers would be on the higher end of flow rates for button drippers, so, depending on your current cycle, a shorter cycle might help. In addition to that is soil drainage -- if you have thick or clay-like soil that experiences slower drainage, a shorter watering cycle is likely to help as well -- likewise if you have a thick layer of mulch over the top of the soil, the soil moisture retention rate is going to be high (which is a good thing, but could also call for shorter watering cycles). Look to see if you have some of those overwatering symptoms, and if so, shorten the watering cycle. A soil moisture meter can also help determine if the soil moisture is at a good level -- even one of the inexpensive analog types (like this one: www.dripdepot.com/soil-moisture-meter) can accurately measure soil moisture content.

Unfortunately no software that's unique to us -- Are you thinking software that helps control irrigation cycles (smart watering)? If so, there's quite a bit out there that works well: Hunter Hydrawise, Hydro-Rain Bhyve, Jain, Toro and even OpenSprinkler make some pretty good software at that end of things. Smart irrigation is definitely gaining traction in the irrigation industry, I'd expect to see a bunch of new solutions come up over the next few years. As the solutions evolve, I wouldn't be surprised to begin seeing them made specific to crop and field types (orchards, nurseries, row crops, etc).

Clogging can definitely happen, but it is very rare in filtered municipal water. The most common cause of clogging in 1/4" dripline comes from back-siphoning through the actual emitters (at shut-down, low point emitters will drain and any higher may pull in air to replace the draining water, which can bring dirt with it). Making sure the emitters are facing up can alleviate this risk. Fi 1/4" dripline is probably my personal favorite emitter type, I use it extensively in my home garden, exactly as you described, running down my garden beds. I also snake it through a flower bed. Not insert too much of my personal bias, but I find it so versatile -- it can be made into a ring to go around trees, shrubs, etc, or used straight down garden beds.

Heya Jennifer! You won't want to punch holes in the 1/4" tubing -- instead of punching holes in 1/4" tubing and inserting an emitter, you can just put the emitter in the end of the 1/4" tubing, near the plant. The 1/4" couplings have two uses, both of which you'll likely be using, so it's good you have them available. The first is to join two sections of 1/4" tubing together -- the second is to connect 1/4" tubing to your 1/2" mainline. Just like you do with an emitter, punch a hole with the 1/4" punch you have, but instead of popping in an emitter, you can pop in the 1/4" coupling and then connect the 1/4" tubing to the other side -- this allows you to create 1/4" tubing runs from a 1/2" or larger mainline and take it over to the plants and pop a button dripper into the end. I do some graphics that show this, I'll fire them off in an email shortly :).

@@dripdepot ahhh. Makes total sense. Will be diving into this some more this afternoon!

Thank you! If you ever have any questions, don't hesitate for a second -- likewise, looking at your fantastic channel, I might have questions for you! :)

hi, thanks for your support, more power to your channel

That's a great question Katie -- for propagation directly into the soil, the umbrella pattern adjustable ones are more often used. Drippers and Dripline are great when the plants are rooted, as their water tends to immediately drop below the soil line -- this is normally a good thing as it prevents evaporation, but isn't idea for seed sprouting for that reason. The umbrella pattern adjustable is good about covering some surface area for seeds. The other popular options are the adjustable vortex fan sprayer and the adjustable spray jet.

Thank you!

If I'm understanding correctly, I do believe you can do as you described -- you could also run the solid black poly tubing nearby and tap into it at every plant for the drip line that has pre-installed emitters (which is also close to what you described, but you wouldn't have to interrupt the run of black poly, it could just continue to the next plant while you take the portion you tapped into over to the plant to form a ring around the tree or bush) :) You're welcome to ask any follow-up questions, I'll be happy to assist!

Paul, thank you for the kind words as well! Unfortunately goof plugs won't work for this -- this has actually been something I've been waiting to see for a long time, something able to plug the outlets on drip line. There is a lot of demand for one, and so far nothing. I even had a client, who is an inventor, say he was going to create one, but to no avail. This makes me think there is something particularly difficult about it, as the demand is there and people have tried. With that said, you mentioned this was RainBird drip line, and a year or two back RainBird did announce a product at one of the irrigation trade shows that can do this. The caveat being it only works for the larger sizes of drip line (1/2" +). Is your the 1/2" drip line or the 1/4"? If it's the 1/2", let me know and I'll reach out to RainBird to see if that product actually hit the market after the trade show. Quick Note: How far from the plants are the current emitters? If they're reasonably close, water might reach the roots -- water spreads about 12" from the point of drip in common loamy garden soil.

@@dripdepot Thank you for your prompt response. The line is 1/2" Rainbird line. Some of the emitters are more than the suggested 12" since they are young plants with small roots. Would I cause an imbalance if I installed new additional emitters in the line where I need them and not plug the "wasted" holes. Much appreciated if you were to touch base with Rainbird. Thank you for your time and effort. Paul R.

@@paulr.5704 Awesome on the 1/2"! I'll do some poking around and see if those plugs ever hit market -- at the trade show, they were introduced for exactly this purpose, plugging outlets on RainBird's 1/2" drip line :) If all other variables are accounted for (primarily length of line, flow going through it and available water at the water source) it is perfectly acceptable to add emitters to 1/2" and larger sized drip lines, so that might be a solution to keep in mind too. I'll follow-up with you about the plugs as soon as I hear back!

@@dripdepot Thank you. I'll be here watching some more of your vids. Paul

Joshua, you're off to a great start, what you're proposing is something we see fairly often -- it's an out of the box way to use drip line, as it wasn't initially used that way but people have gotten creative with it and it's an effective method. It's faster than some of the container specific methods and we even see it done in larger commercial systems now. If you haven't gotten all the details worked out yet, I can also help with connecting poly to PVC -- are you looking to connect it to the end of a PVC pipe run, or into the wall of the PVC pipe, etc? We're leaving for the weekend soon, so if you don't hear back from me right away, I'll be back early on Monday and jump back into comments :)

The landscaper would likely know this one better than us -- mostly due to local factors, those who work in the area will have a better understanding of local climate conditions that influence watering frequency and duration, particularly if it's for plants that grow in the area. One way to tell if your watering cycle is too long is if water is pooling on the surface or if the wet spot where you're dripping is large. The wet spot on top of the soil should always be pretty small -- if the watering cycle is too long, the water will have trouble penetrating the surface after awhile and the wet spot on top will grow (or possibly even water will pool on the surface). With all that said, I'd take your landscapers advice as a good starting point as they'll have quite a bit of experience growing in the local conditions :)

Button drippers and drip line (drip line is the type with pre-made holes that have emitters beneath them) are very similar and can be used in similar applications. For example, our 1/4" drip line drips at 0.5 GPH per hole and the most common button drippers also drip at 0.5 GPH. Depending on the size of the bed, planting density, number of plants, I'd look at it from a labor time perspective. Installing button drippers for a large, densely planted bed is going to be pretty labor intensive, where with drip line you can just lay it out and it's flexible enough to snake through a bed. Essentially, when looking at these options I approach it from a labor time (and difficulty!) angle -- sometimes a little mix of both is a good approach, using drip line to wind through the majority of the bed and then using button drippers to get plants that are fewer in number and separated from the others.

I think everything you stated is very accurate (particularly for your water source!). I think to some degree it depends on the design of the emitter in the drip tape -- they're designed to be resistant to clogging with an inlet filter at each emitter and a turbulent flow path so debris can be flushed out the end. That does mean very regular flushing to avoid clogging, which can be a pain depending on how many lines of tape are ran. The inlet filters are surprisingly effective when combined with regular flushing. I do tend to prefer 200 mesh whenever possible -- the downside to that of course can mean very frequent cleaning of the filter element, but I find that to be less of an inconvenience than finding and replacing clogged sections of tape. A filter with a larger surface area can help reduce cleaning frequency (though it might still need to be daily, but hopefully not mid-cycle). You've also got it right that some micro-irrigation and drip emitters do have larger orifices which allows them to pass larger debris -- button drippers, sprayers and spray jets often recommend 120 mesh minimum, so a good bit wider than what's seen with drip tape where most of the manufacturers recommend around 155 mesh minimum. In regards to pressure, drip tape is typically used at 10 to 15 PSI, with the 15 PSI being reserved for the thicker walled tapes at 15 Mil. In most cases, you can match up the pressure to the Mil thickness and get good results (10 PSI for 10 Mil, 15 PSI for 15 Mil, etc). Tapes with walls thinner than 10 Mil typically operate at 10 PSI. Thank you for the great question!

Jennifer, of course I remember you! We corresponded quite a bit last year setting up your system, I'm glad you're still gardening and using drip out there :) I can definitely help with a pump -- as you might have suspected, there are a few variables to fill in to size a pump, but it's not as daunting as it first seems. I can fire you off an email with the pump sizing worksheet if you don't mind (just let me know here) -- I can also help you fill it out, a lot of the information will come from the system you want it to feed, and the rest will come from what you touched on above (vertical distances).

Good question! With drip irrigation, most of the action happens underneath the soil -- in common loamy garden soil, water will spread about 12" from the point of drip. This part happens beneath the surface of the soil through the soil's capillary action. Sometimes folks will panic because they see only a small wet spot on top of the soil, but that's actually a feature -- minimal evaporation, with all the watering happening where you want it, right at the roots. In very loose/sandy soils or plants with larger root balls, it can definitely be beneficial to use more emitters -- you can create a ring of drip line to encircle a bigger plant (we do that with fruit trees pretty often) or run a second run of drip line (I do that at home with some raspberry bushes that got large). If any questions come up, don't hesitate to reach out! :)

@@dripdepot That is so educational. I did place an order from drip depot last week. One follow up question. Would you recommend drip line (in circles) in pots as well? I've a dozen pots with dahlia tubers. And how do you think about spot spitter as an alternative?

@@nimageofmine You're already getting good at this whole drip thing, as both options you mentioned (spot spitters and 1/4" drip line rings) are both frequently used in pots and containers :) The spot spitters use a different size tubing (1/8"), so if you already have everything operating off 1/4" and/or have any 1/4" left, it might be easier to go with drip line rings. But if you don't have any 1/4" tubing or fittings left, it'd probably be just as easy (and effective!) to go with spot spitters.

@@dripdepot Thank you for your quick responses 🙂. It is so good to get advice from expert on youtube (convenient).

If the plants are good with having wet foliage, a Fan Jet could definitely work here -- they cover a reasonable area so you can get pretty good coverage with just a few of them. They put out quite a lot of water, so you'll want to make sure to plan for the flow rate of the system (the sum of the flow rate of all fan jets operating at once) versus the flow rate of the water source. If this was previously feeding a sprinkler system, you'll likely have plenty of flow though :) Labor wise, they're pretty equal, with fan jets likely being a little bit less since you need fewer of them -- either way isn't too bad though, except on very large landscapes.

@@dripdepot thank you for your advice ! I really appreciate it!

@@KevinB_123 Any time Kevin! If any questions come up along the way, don't hesitate to drop a line, happy to help :)

Good idea -- we do plan to do more of these emitter comparison videos, we'll absolutely include bubblers and vortex fan sprayers. The goal is to eventually have some "action footage" of every emitter type so folks can see how they work in the field or garden :)

@@dripdepot Those would be great to see on the website for each emitter for us newbies.

@@Katie-dp3jl Us veterans can benefit too! Seeing all the emitters in action I think has great practical value and I've got a bunch of them added to the list to get action shots of, fully agreed with your suggestion :)

My apologies for missing this question! I'm not sure how I didn't get the notification, and I hope it's not too late to assist. For hilly terrain the best bet is almost always going to be something pressure compensating -- pressure compensating emitters are great about uniform emission despite higher pressure at low points and less pressure at high points -- they "compensate" for the increased pressure of gravity. In regards to exotic plants, this will definitely depend on which type -- if it's plants that like wet foliage, a pressure compensating microsprinkler or sprayer can get the job done. If it doesn't like we foliage, and pressure compensating button dripper or drip line will work great :)

Great question! You don't necessarily need all types to get full coverage, though it's not uncommon to mix them on a system for different plant needs. Drippers typically serve one dripper per plant (sometimes a couple drippers placed around a plant to get water to all sides of its root zone for a larger plant). Drip line can remain efficient so long as you don't go over maximum recommended run lengths (20' to 30' for 1/4" drip line, around 200' for 1/2" drip line). In common loamy garden soil, water will spread about 12" from the point of drip -- this all happens beneath the surface of the soil, which can make it look like there's not much water being delivered. This means, in many cases, a line of drip line (or a run of tubing with button drippers punched in) can provide pretty thorough coverage right down a row of plants, even if they're densely plants. I limit sprayer/microsrpinkler use to thirstier plants that are ok having we foliage -- in my home garden, I use a spray type nozzle on a bed of ferns at the fence line -- for my veggies and fruit bushes, I make extensive use of 1/4" dripline and 1/4" drip line formed into rings going around a bush and have had good results.

They are 3 ft in diameter each and spread 10 ft apart, they are 4 ft tall to start with (each)

To determine if you'll need one or two zones, what we want to look at is flow -- specifically, the flow rate provided by the water source versus the flow rate demanded by the irrigation system. As a quick example, let's say you are going to use four 10 GPH bubblers at each of the 14 plants -- 14 10 GPH emitters will be a total system flow rate of 140 GPH. In that example, you would want your water source to provide more than 140 GPH so there would be enough water available to feed all the emitters. Given there are 14, it's highly likely you can accomplish this as one zone, at least unless you were using very high flow emitters. Still, it's best to confirm (measure twice, cut once and all that!). You can test the flow rate of your water source with just a timer and a bucket (3 gallon, 5 gallon, etc). Time how long it takes to fill the bucket with water and then plug the numbers into this flow rate calculator to get a good approximation of its flow rate: www.dripdepot.com/irrigation-calculators Keep that number handy so you can compare it to the flow rate of the irrigation system -- emitters will have their flow rates stated in the Specifications on their item page or in the Specifications PDF on each item page -- just add up their flow rates (or multiply it by the number you'll use) and you have your irrigation system flow rate :)

Good question! Good instinct as well, as hilly areas are often done just a bit differently. In areas with elevation changes, I like to use pressure compensating emitters -- pressure compensating emitters can compensate for higher pressure (such as emitters at low elevation points) and keep them dripper at very close to the same rate as those at higher elevation point. I'd check to see what type of watering method your veggies prefer, mostly in regards to we foliage -- most vegetables don't like wet foliage (can promote rot, fungues, etc) so will be best served by drippers (pressure compensating drippers are readily available and pretty much the same cost as a non-pressure compensating dripper).

Hard water is indeed the bane of many small orifice emitters! With hard water there's typically three options, happy to cover them below, and a tip that can help delay clogging :) 1. BowSmith makes a "Non-Stop" emitter that is very good at resisting clogging -- they're not immune to it, but they're designed to go longer without clogging (and in my experience the design works, though I usually work with water that has algae, etc, instead of heavy mineral): www.dripdepot.com/bowsmith-non-stop-dripper 2. This is probably the best 100% way -- there's a couple types of cleanable drippers out there, that when they get clogged, can be easily disassembled so they can be rinsed of debris (and/or soaked into a solution that breaks it all down so it can be put back into service). Here are the two common cleanable button drippers we have: www.dripdepot.com/ceta-cleanable-pressure-compensating-dripper -- and -- www.dripdepot.com/cleanable-dripper 3. You can inject a solution through the lines to break down mineral build up -- there are solutions that change the pH enough to break down mineral build-up, but still safe for plants. We see this method employed on larger commercial farms pretty often. And a tip (unless you're already doing this part)! No matter what dripper you use, opening the end of the lines and flushing them out regularly will help prevent every type of clog -- poly tubing is designed to make the water in the line turbulent -- when the end is opened and water is allowed to flush out, the turbulence will break up deposits and send it right out the end :)

Either one can work well for flower beds! I'm a fan of winding or snaking 1/4" drip line through my flower bed, but my flower bed is fairly small -- for larger beds (and flowers that are ok with wet foliage, which is fairly common in the flower world) having something that can provide area coverage can make it easier. Basically, for small beds, I'm a fan of snaking drip line, for larger beds I find it easier (and just as effective) to go with something that covers some area :)

This is a very good question you're asking here, thank you for that. You're also absolutely on the right track, as this is indeed a concern to account for. In the sprinkler world, this is accounted for by what's known as "Matched Precipitation." For example, the 360° will deliver 4 GPM, the 180° 2 GPM and the 90° 1 GPM. Basically, 1 GPM per quarter circle to ensure the area covered receives the same volume of water. If those were adjustable sprayers they may be able to be adjusted to things closer to matched in regards to how much water they're putting out over a given area, a lot of sprayers feature an adjustment knob. Very good question and great catch when you were checking those out at the store!

What is the flow rate of those emitters? The maximum will depend on how much total flow is going through the line -- after about 200 GPH, the friction loss curve gets pretty steep in 1/2" tubing. If they're 0.5 GPH button drippers, I'd expect them to work at the end of the line (if they are, I'll be happy to assist troubleshoot). If they're 40 10.0 GPH sprayers, the pressure lost from friction may be too much at about 26 PSI lost in 150' of 1/2" tubing flowing at 400 GPH. There is also flow rate to account for -- your 8 1/4 GPM is pretty healthy, but if you're using sprayers or higher flow emitters it could be worth looking into more. As an example, if you have 50 15 GPH sprayers, they will have a flow demand of 750 GPH -- if the water source flows at 650 GPH, some would be starved of water. If one of those is the culprit, it's fortunately a pretty easy fix in zoning the system :)

@@dripdepot 1/2 gph

@@dripdepot but without any emoters installed, and trying to blow out the clean out on tube end, the pressure barely trickled out. I assumed a kink and walked entire line, no kink or pinch

@@troutnut01 Definitely strange! A leak in the line could definitely cause this same problem -- is the line above the surface? If so, would you be able to run some water through it and check it for leaking water? Even a small leak could cause a severe loss of pressure (air and/or water). With 1/2 GPH drippers and a 150' run of 1/2" tubing, I can confirm you're well into the green in regards to specifications, which means something else is definitely at play. If there is no leaking, let me know, I'll have you send over some photos and see if I can spot anything in the setup.

That's a great question -- whenever I can, I prefer poly to vinyl. Poly is significantly more durable and is going to last longer given equal applications. Vinyl breaks down under UV exposure faster than poly. If you've ever found some old vinyl, you know that brittleness it gets to it? That can happen pretty quickly in direct sunlight. Poly resists UV damage to a much higher degree -- it will eventually break down too, but we're talking years and years, 10+, 15+, I'm not actually 100% sure because, even though I've had my home system for a long time, it hasn't been long enough for any of the poly to become brittle (it has faded a bit, but 0 brittleness). The one application where vinyl can shine is for indoor situations -- I'm not entirely clear on why, but it doesn't break down under grow lights like it does on the sun (perhaps due to the amount of UV, or simply UV). In indoor applications the additional flexibility of vinyl can come in handy due to the tighter space as well. One thing I'll give to vinyl is it's also much easier to get on over the barbed fittings, but due to degradation I'll go with poly any time I can (except some indoor applications). :)

@@dripdepot Thanks for you detailed answer. I was gravitating toward vinyl for its flexibility, but I'll go with poly to avoid issues after a couple Phoenix summers. Thanks.

@@poolmonkey You're very welcome! And yep, I'd expect poly to stand up much better in the AZ sun than vinyl -- best to keep the poly out of too much direct exposure as well, but more for the heat than the UV when it comes to poly (the lines can get pretty hot!).

Good advice, and accurate! We call this soil infiltration rate, and you have it right, you don't want to exceed the soil infiltration rate or it starts accumulating on the surface where it can become susceptible to run-off and evaporation as you noted. The one exception to this is sandy soils -- while you won't need the flow rate of the nile, a faster flow rate emitter is usually the go-to for loose soil types :)

The tubing Antelco uses there is a very soft, so it is able to bend without much compromise of structural integrity -- however, there is an option if you don't like the crimp option (and I'll admit, crimping goes against my instincts as well, at least long term) -- a barbed coupling valve could be used to have on/off without any crimping of the tubing. Added benefit would be having some control over the spray if you wanted to reduce it without reducing the rest of the system pressure :)

Thank you for reaching out! Everything used in the video is linked above in the description (including a couple things not used in the video). If you're looking for something that's not linked or something specific, just let me know, happy to link you directly :)

I think any of the solutions could work, but personally I'd be inclined to running some 1/4" tubing through the bucket, assuming it's a large enough bucket (and it likely is with tomatoes). The reason is keeping foliage dry -- the drip line is going to drip directly into the soil, leaving the stalk and foliage nice and dry (which reduces the chances for fungus/rot, etc to get a foothold). A spray or an adjustable emitter could technically be placed in a way where it wouldn't hit the foliage, but it would take quite a bit of adjusting throughout the season to make sure it stayed that way -- with drip line, it would be near impossible for it to end up dripping in a way that got the foliage wet :) Note: with mature plants wet foliage is less of an issue, they develop defenses as they mature -- but still, the odds are always best with dry foliage, even if it's by a small degree when mature.

@@dripdepot to focus in...for tomatoes in a 5 gallon bucket would I do drip line in a ring on top of the soil and cover with mulch? (like in the tree ring video you guys do? or bury deeper or set up in a different configuration?

@@Ryan-nj5ue Surprisingly, any of the methods you mentioned are likely to work (and work well!), but I typically do the ring on top of the soil and then cover with mulch. This allows the vast majority of the moisture to remain trapped, practically eliminating evaporation of the irrigation water. Covering with mulch or soil does slightly increase the risk of clogging (typically over time, not immediate), so if you wanted to place it on top of the mulch this is also more than acceptable. There will be a little evaporation, but even then it will be minimal since the vast majority of the water will penetrate and spread out beneath the soil.

@@dripdepot this helps alot!!

With a gravity setup, you'll typically want to use drippers over spray -- this is because spray emitters typically either require higher pressure, or put out significantly more flow (or both!). With that said, much of this depends on how much elevation you're able to achieve with your gravity water source. If it's elevated quite a bit (40' to 60'), you'll have enough pressure to operate spray type emitters. If there's no hillside, this kind of elevation will not always be possible, in which case pressure would be low enough it would be best to opt for drip type emitters so that each emitter doesn't use up too much of the available pressure and flow :)

@@dripdepot Thank you.

We do actually have another video that goes over this exact thing -- I'll link it at the end, but happy to go over the information here in the comment too. In most cases, you're going to need a pressure regulator. Drip irrigation and the type of spray emitters we used in this video are low pressure solutions and their optimal operating pressure is almost always below standard residential pressure (15 to 25 PSI in most cases). There are a couple places with residential pressure that low, but definitely on the rare side. Just in case, here is the video to the video I mentioned (it basically goes over the above in more detail): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kJqqorB8uZawkWw.html

The sprays referred to in the video operate at low pressure and would not work well in most standard sprinkler systems -- this one, for example, operates at 10 to 30 PSI with the optimal operating pressure being 15 PSI: www.dripdepot.com/adjustable-spray-jet-on-stake While it is a sprayer, it operates at such low pressure that it makes a better fit in drip irrigation systems than it does lawn/turf or sprinkler irrigation systems. The best place for sprayers in a drip system are plants that enjoy wet foliage and ground cover (places where drip emitters wouldn't as effective or could require a large amount to get the job done) :) Traditional sprayers, those used for lawn, I'd definitely agree -- they put out a lot more water than a spray jet like the one above and would not mesh well with a drip system on the same zone. If you ran the watering time for the drip emitters, the spray nozzle would end up putting out too much water -- this can be avoided with the adjustable spray jets used in drip, but not with lawn/turf sprayers (RainBird 1800, Hunter Pro Spray, etc).