This really is a very good video...thoroughly enjoyed the informative dialogue and the methodical process of eliminating the problem... The fact that you included the springs bid for freedom only enhanced the viewing and provided a heads up for others following your steps at maintenance... I know its been a while since you made this video but I'm in the process of catching up with your channel... Very impressed so far and I'm only on episode 10.... Thank you for the effort you put in to sharing your progress...inspiring stuff...

Yep good work ,, Also if you use a smaller steel 1mm needle and in a 10ml squeaze bottle will do the trick (also called a needle tip glue applicator/oiler) (10 bottles for AUD$10.21 free post) ebay of course ,, so the smaller the lube needle gives you more accurate the application and the more control you will have on the amount of oil you put into the bearings and all of the touching and conecting cogs. You only need a drop on all areas of movement. I have litterally resurrected some non goers of all sorts. When you hear the high pitched squeal its the beairngs screaming for oil. I had 1 springfield motor here in a 44 class lima new south wales livery australian loco and it wouldnt even turn over asmthe hadnt run it sincemthe late 1970's so i give the small moving parts a small spray with inox and left it over night and it free'd up and pulled it apart cleaned it and chucked it all back together and it worked like charm. This also works for the hornby X03 X04 motors too and ringfield and pancake motors too. Also when you put the secondary drive cogs back on its best to give them a couple of small dobs of oil or molygrease so thers no issues with lubrication and run it statically to get the excess oil off the cogs or oil will end up all over your wheels and tracks. Good video & keep them coming m8. Cheers from John in Australia.

Excellent video & well explained, thanks

great video i have a few of these hornby locos and even some older triang and i do my best to keep them running i think they have character.

I've got an old beat up class 37 from when I was a kid so at least 25 years old, missing buffers glazing and squeels like a mouse, so you've given me the inspiration to do something with it, thanks for sharing 👍

I didn't notice you oiling the other end of the armature as there is a bearing at each end. Might have saved you a stripdown and you might find a needle or similar a little less awkward for some of the smaller locations. The syringe you are using looks like it may be better suited for giving enemas LOL.

im looking to buy a class 37 but its missing the brushes and there aren't any like hobby store in my country is there a way to like diy something there or the brushes are essential ?

Very good video despite there she these old locos are reliable . I have a 6 year old class 150 and the motor has blow yet my 70s hst is still going strong

Armature spindles need oiling back and front.

Brilliant

i had the same problem with my old ( now my sons ) class 37, stripped it down like you did and oiled everything.........had to replace the springs and brushes as in your video, one pinged out and was never seen again ??? lol. now runs great ! super smooth and fantastic slow running ! i think the noise comes from the plastic gears vibrating together at high speed ?.......... tho i could be wrong ? :)

Loco has wrong number for build series . 8H22 is a headcode for coal trains out of Radyr Yard . This model has wrong bogies on it . Looks like class 47's older models had class 31 bogies

Huh, I just bought one in the US but didn't realize it was that old. I have an issue with the motor gears running rather loudly

I have this exact loco! 8H22! It's running fairly slow now and sparking a bit, any solutions?

Would like a video to see how the non drive bogey affects loco running as if the wires not connected properly loco wont run

just needs oiling on the bearings, apart from that good runner mate