Definitely not lol where in Mexico are you?

You can use standard bore for 500 HP

i just built my first ever car, fully built and boosted d16 mini me, just about the same as this, cost me about 7-8k all together minus the car.

@@BoostedTweaker that's your hands build or paid some mechanic for the whole operation? I wish i could do a D16Zc

It’s only temporary Haha

@@Autosauce it works lol

No cam needed and not if it’s a vtec head . Both would help tho , I personally like the delta 272 regrind a , the “zex nitrous cam” is another favorite. Think of a turbo engine as a giant air pump you want air in and out as fast as possible. now while you don’t *need* the cam or to port the head it will only help assuming it’s ported correctly, you can simply “blue print “ the head and clean up any casting flash , polish the hell outta the exhaust ports , leave the intake rough as in don’t polish it. Valve springs are needed for the build and in which case even lapping the valves will help performance vs bone stock out of a running car .. if your gonna get into the head personally I’d port it , get a good set of valve springs and retainers , viton valve stem seals , and atleast id do a performance 3 angle Valve job and back cut the valves …. Bottom end either sleeve it , do a half fill , or find somewhere that can properly install a block guard and “post/pin” the rest of the block , I don’t like to use block guards on their own as there is nothing preventing the bottom of the sleeve from moving , not to mention I’ve never seen a sleeve break from the top down .. and stay away from bored blocks and boost unless it’s sleeved or a cast iron block thin cylinder walls + higher revs , + boost is never a good thing .. if you like many decide to go bserious later on down the road , grab a gsr block right off the bat if building is as they are the only one that has a stud gurdle from the factory , my second choice would be a b16 as they have the a “perfect “ rod to stroke angle

About 3k

Been trying to find that out 😂