Blazing Saddles? Awesome reference. I watch it every year along with “It’s a Mad Mad Mad Mad World” with my mom on her birthday. She’s 84 now and we still do it

Back in the early 1970's. I had made up a cold air kit for my 1964 GTO that used an AFB (625 cfm), on the stock cast iron intake manifold. Kept the base and air filter. Made a box around it all with two dryer type heater hose going to scoops under the front end. Blocked the heat crossover. For comparison test. I would use a RC bottle (16 oz.) with a certain low level in it. On a summer day, if you just got on the freeway. I would start to cruise at 3,000 rpm, and slowly floor it to 4,000 rpm. With the certain level of RC in it. It would not start to fall over. Wait about 5 minutes, and repeat the same test. It would fall over easily. You could feel the difference. I would pull over right after this and take off the top of the air filter, and the carburetor would be cold as ice, and the same for the intake manifold. Sometimes, you would see a little ice in there. Around town driving, this never happened. Only at steady speeds, with more air moving constantly, did this gain show up. Tried this with an aluminum intake manifold, and it would never get that cool at all. I figured the aluminum was pulling heat from the heads much faster than the cast iron. Showed this to my friends, and they found it hard to believe that this would make that much difference in acceleration. So from what I saw back then, it was cold air and cold fuel that made a gain in torque.

I remember when I was working in F3000 for DAMS (team name), the FIA (tech guys) wanted a fuel sample straight from the fuel injection rails straight after we'd won the race at SPA. It was a DFY Cosworth which had aluminium fuel rails. They wanted me to give them the sample while the engine was still hot. I gave them the appropriate spanners and said " piss off, I'll be outside the garage!" I've never seen them move so fast when they cracked that fuel line (engine not running). The fuel pressure and vapour sprayed everywhere, over hot exhausts ,brakes etc. They took off like they'd been shot in the arse! Fuel does get hot especially in injected engines with a line back to the tank. (PS not drag racing _ 2 hour race)

A reliable fuel temperature delivery is really helpful for reliable power bands!

I saw blazing saddles as a 10 yr old. My buddy Danny several years later showed the power of beans. His drawers were burned badly. I couldnt talk him into sitting on my carb though.

Also nice to hear that you worked with Brad Urban. He built a Qjet for me in the mid 1990s and he really knew his stuff!

I only saw 1 other comment about this, but it wasn't in the same vein, so I am going to bring it up. Smokey Yunick's hot vapor engines: I believe I understand why they worked on carbureted engines, but I'd like to hear it from someone who has a working background in this field. I also think I understand why it *doesn't* work on EFI and why it's really not needed. I think it was a very interesting concept and it definitely held merit. It would be interesting to see one put together today with modern analyzing equipment to show the data in real time.

Beans, beans - they’re good for your heart - The more you eat- the more you fart, The more you fart - the better you feel - So eat your beans with every meal.............& then go into a cold can fuel chiller business!!!!! Great vid David.

I saw the title and gave a thumbs up before even watching. 😂👍

Yeah they restrict us circle track guys from using fuel coolers. But they don't say anything about not cooling the fuel in the cell...

I bought your Holley Carb book 9 years ago. Still sitting on my desk with more of your books since then..

An exhaust-heated intake manifold, eh? You must have been watching Uncle Tony struggling to get the bog out of Plan Z.

Saw one of these on a guys hot rod at the strip when I was a kid in the 80s. I asked the owner-driver why his fuel line was coiled and going through an ice bucket under the hood. He said, "It makes the car go faster kid! Fuel burns better when it's colder." (or something like that...)

It's best to bend the tube in half, with a 2" loop then wrap the two at the same time, you can also use water in the tube to prevent it from collapse, it may require pinching the end then solder it closed, cut it off when ready to remove the water!

Id like to ceramic coat the whole intake, maybe not the inside unless unless it can be applied without smoothing the runners too much, but also coat the hot side of the intake ports, the chambers, and the exhaust ports, along with the pistons, top and bottom, see how it goes, use down leg annular boosters. For a performance street engine, and keep the engine hot a 200° thermostat,, it may be a bad idea, but I'd like to try it! It would probably be horrible in NC 🥶 winters

I love the statement “it doesn’t matter what they like it’s what the engine likes” that’s what really is going on ! Then the looking good comes in 2nd place and that performance is number one ! I just wounder how well it would work on a fuel injected motor ? I’m sure it would be different between throttle body compared to tune port . But this was another great video ! I can remember Smokey Yunick in one of his books talked about coating the lifter galley and behind the timing chain with a epoxy varnish that is used on electrical motor windings! He said it would keep the engine heat from getting the oil hot . This way the viscosity of the oil stays up and cooler oil keeps the wear down by cooling the friction of the moving parts ! With that the horsepower stays up also so in a long race the engine would retain more power from your competitors ! Then you can run the engine harder and not hurt it as bad ! David reminds me of Smokey if there is a inch of room any were to get 5,10,15 more horse power there he’s done it and knows how to make everyone of them more efficient! That what I like efficient the most power I can get with the most effective ways at getting it ! I don’t wanna leave 1/2 horse on the table if it takes 15 more minutes when you have some thing tore down then I want it ! I was young and buying after market performance parts an with each one it would give you a idea about the horse gains . Then when building I would have the factory specs for compression , valve size , carb size , and so on. Then I would put the total from all my add one and say well about this much . A friend of mine laughed one day when I said should be around a 450-500 HP engine ! As he laughed he said who are you trying to lie to? I said well the best I could figure that’s were I’m at ! He said no way your running about 600 might even be more safe to say 650-700! I’m like how do you think I’ve got that much ? He said well you don’t talk to every one your kinda in your own little world but the last few races you’ve out run guys with motors on the Dino read out saying 592 HP then the one you barely beat is 600+ . So you gotta take in that all that stuff your adding up you forget it all helps each other . Then because you read a crank scraper, windage tray , plugging lifter galley holes, and insulation paint is 50 horse power . He said you might be getting 60-80 from that if it’s working with everything else you added . He said and all that add ones specs on what you get from them isn’t always on the money just say if it says 15 more horse power and 3 different guys use it you might get 17 I might get 13 and some one else might get 20 or 10 just depends if you know what works together and how to tune it then having a bunch of in the same category parts to change out and see what works the best for you and what combo with all the different ones you have ! That’s why I like the statement at the beginning David said about it’s nit what you want it’s about what the engine wants ! Nothing could be better said than that right there that’s the proof is in the pudding statement ! Thanks again David I love to learn and advance my wisdom on getting more power from tuning in to you !

Another very interesting video DV! Lots to think about. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge! Looking forward to the next video!

Thankyou DV for sharing your technical experienced based wisdom

As always, a pleasure listening to you David. Your dry humour came to the fore in this episode as well. Terry from Australia.

Great stuff David. Reminds me of your Chrysler video on the combustion chamber and the sensitivity to fuel droplet size. Regards Greg

Your videos are awesome! Well done. You guys rock!

Thanks again David. your knowledge is priceless and your giving it to us here for free! I'm sucking it up!

Great tips as usual David 👍

I'm surprised that the original straight booster is still standard on all of Holley's base model carburetors like the 0-1850 and 0-3310. Annular discharge boosters are seat of the pants more noticeably responsive than straight ones.

Pardon me while I whip this out... Lady faints I 😂😂😂😂😂

David I'm a huge fan of yours. I've remodified my stock VW sedan 1600 to overrun some Porches and Ferraris on a 1/4mile. Just by tuning them up, not turbocharger, not supercharged, only stock BOCAR SOLEX 34 PIC-3 Carburetor slightly rich and a normal air filter. No wonder how would they improve by all these air and carburators and studs and air filters I've learned from you. As a specialist in tribology, I would like to suggest to try ACEA "C" oils with mid or low saps, and an oil with a bypass filter will also make the motor run smoother and practically eliminate wearing. These ACEA "C" type are made specially for turbo and super ch. Engines, however can be used in top aplicación racing motors. Always check for germal specification, PEG, ESTER and PAO based are best in that order for power. Greetings a lot for teaching me about how to supercharge my air-cooled engines without using a supercharger. Also, I want to tell you a story, trying fuel vaporisers and misters, (far better than injector but harder to tune) in ralentí only. I found a better way to cool and "hydrate" the air, like a slight water injection and precooler at the same time. I just added a big can of water (or fuel or oil or so) cutter the top (latter glued with any gray water tubbing tape), 1-3 gal. and put some tubes till the button (3-4 tubes 1-2 inches). Filled it with Inox brass fibers (kitchen metallic dish cleaning fibers) and put a output tube to another can and then to the air filter. Air was mountain cold, with high moisture. Tuning the motor never were so easy and detonation disappeared when tuning distributor ignition curve, and advance curve were so easy to grasp than never before. Also the motor was running in vapor fuel from a 20 oz. Or so, in a soda plastic bottle used to evaporate fuel, directly to the carburator inlet to the manifold pressure vacuum entrance. The motor was consuming about 1/4 of gas for street stop and go and was revving almost twice faster on low to mid RPMs when WOT. I hope this could add some to your experience. I also tried your super spark plug with a hole in the center electrode and compared to another one I designed for my 2 stroke and now 4 stroke motors. If you want I would love to share with you the perfect spark on a non resistance cooper spark plug. Not mentioning these spark plugs run on a generator based electrical system, and on my alternator ones I can use super low resistance coils that don't wear out electrodes and also can give the hottest pulse that shorts ignition curve and improve acceleration.

It's almost like this video was made for Uncle Tony and his Plan Z. I like to see him ride his mini-bike to the bathroom after he polishes off those beans.

Great info as always professor vizard.thank you sir

ALWAYS great content!

Please tell Uncle Tony to watch this , He needs this information to fix his Slant

This dude is a national treasure

Awesome!! Thank you very much David!!

@UncleTonysGarage could use this knowledge to help fix the issues with Plan Z. Not the cool can, but the fuel atomization problem.

Yeah yeah, Blazing Saddles. you get a thumbs up, for that reference alone. I thought you were going to suggest, eating a can of beans, then sitting on your open fuel filler.

Amazing information thank you

Great video David, thanks a lot, I did a test years back cooling down weber sidedraughts just with ice on top, gained 5Nm and about 0,5Kw on the dyno ,my brother said it's not worth the effort😂😂 Ps. that was on a VW four cylinder 1984cc or 121 cubic inches.

I was waiting for this episode of the cool can.

Still have an old Moroso cool can stashed away somewhere. Great video!

thank you david i bought that book a few years ago and i made a cool can it works just fine but im going to work on that return system next

Thanks David

Just insulating the fuel line in the engine bay will help a lot with idle heat soak.

I cannot bring much to the table with this, but I have made impromptu cooling jackets for small model engines. Bending small copper pipe it is easy to get the sand trapped so we used salt in place of the sand so it could be dissolved out. I wonder how viable peltier heat pumps would be in cooling the fuel?

David Freiburger (Motor trend) just did an episode on this topic just a few days ago. He's obviously been watching D.V!

if no dry ice is available mix rock salt with regular ice to make it colder in the cool can

look forward to water injection talk David Vizard . be blessed as always

Great video

Another HOMERUN!!! Thanks much!!!

I was thinking more of a mad max methane quote. “Not crap! ENERGY!”

Awesome thanks

@Garage4age had excellent results tuning intakes with peach cans

Nice thank you sir

Please show the benefit or losses of using cool can on direct injection like the Mustang. With and without cold air intake. Thank you. Thomas M. Tucson, AZ

I loved that movie

Great vidja guys 🤙🏼AAWWWOOO

Thank you DV! v/r wh

Nobody move or the ****** gets it! That poor man...

For the DIY cooler it sounds like you are describing a condensing worm for a still!

Did you really mean 3/8" or 1/2" tubing instead of 3/16" or 1/4"? My old original Moroso Cool Can has 3/8" copper tubing.

Mad scientist stuff!

Hi Mr Vizard, big fan. Thank you for sharing. The whole Fuel Cooler deal. Is it only applicable to pump and race fuel? Will it work on Alhohol fuels also? which already has a coolinf affect?

🔔😎🇺🇸 Excellent THANK YOU 👍

If you have a street car with A/C, wrap the inbound copper line around the cold side A/C line. Now you have cold fuel for the clobberator every time the compressor is engaged.

“…privy-stench-evacuating-engines…” Wrote about these firstly about 15 years ago.

I have always wondered why nobody has ever used Liquid Propane injection in an EFI application where liquid propane is injected directly at the intake valve instead of gasoline, the temperature drop when propane boils to gas is extremely good.

Eat the beans. Create your own methane! Lol. Got you covered D.V.

Do you remember those intake gasket screens?

Would surrounding the Carb with dry ice and pushing the car through the staging lanes and then making a run have the same effect ?

I designed and produce a nylon intake manifold for my 2-stroke engines. I sold about 100 units. It works great and enhances the power. We like to understand why! Compared to aluminum manifolds does Nylon manifold avoid condensation into bigger dropplets? Any suggestions why it’s better performing?

why did Honda F1 heat the fuel at the end of the turbo years in the 1990s? fuel carried went down, didn't loose power.

Hey Dave an Andy idk if this is a good idea for a vidja but I drive quite a ways for work around 3 hours a day. There’s a Camaro in someone’s back yard I’ve been eye balling for about 5 years now it’s like a 78/80 t-tops. What about a 305ci vidja on sound and gas mileage? Also are power pack heads any good? I do have 4 pairs of 186’s 1 pair of vortex 906’s thank you guys AWWOOO 🤙🏼

🇦🇬 5 Golden Porting Rule🤷🏾‍♂️. 🙇🏾‍♂️

Form follows function.

👍💪

David can you please make a video for dummy's like "me" step by step on the 128 cam formula for picking the right cam for my sbc 400. This engine has a stock dished bottom end with very low mileage. I want to use a set of stock vortec heads on it and i will modify the heads to work with the right cam that matches this engine. I could be wrong about the compression ratio but i was thinking it would be 10.1 with the vortec heads. This engine gets ran a few times a year at two different events and it gets punished a lot. I was thinking a flat tappet solid lift cam but i don't have. any advise is greatly appreciated.

Have you tested the cool can on a fuel injected engine? Thanks for the info

1.5 speed is about perfect. ;)

Water injection is again a bandaid. A proper sized intercooler with enough water flow will make more power than water injection.

Mungo is happy

I love 13:45-13.55

I will do a video showing 6 & 7

Would cooling the fuel on a fuel injected engine have any effect? What if I would use a tranny cooler in front of radiator to cool fuel for same engine?

Is the camshaft program that David Vizard developed still available?

Dp you think cooling the fuel would improve MPG?

Why can't I use Field's metal in the copper pipe when bending it?

Q: How does a specific SU HIF6 carb work in terms of atomization etc. (Rover/Buick 215). Do you have experience with this carb and what it wants? Again - Thanks a million for sharing/teaching us. Peter - Denmark

Some modern cars use their A/C system and pump cold Freeon tru their intake manifold .

Will #5 booster help with two 600, 4160,on a tunnel ram 496 BB mopar

🤔 was this video made as the solution to uncle Tony's intake temperature problem with the plan z dart ? Heat the intake and cool the fuel?

Did you just recommend adding dry ice to water????

Don’t change your ways

Cold can.....I use one on my 66 Tempest....you can buy one .. maybe not.?... I haven't looked them up....I got mine over 30 years ago....in a parts deal....

18:20 instead of ice or freezing water you can use A/C system what is stock in most cars. BMW does it in stock engines

INTERESTING BUTTT does it affect fuel injection much if at all?

Back in the day Mercedes would run their fuel lines through the a/c lines

Can this be done on a fuel injected vehicle

David Vizard. Do you have any experience with 70-78 datsun S30 Z L6 head porting?

Excuse me while I whip this out!!

Where do I get your cam program from?

OK, potentially dumb question. Why not combine the two and make a dogleg annular discharge booster? If that wouldn't work, why not?

Isn't the point of having a cooler fuel charge increase our ability to either run more boost, or use a higher compression ratio?