One thing worth mentioning on the pipe cleaner thing - make sure you're using a "real" pipe cleaner - something meant for actually cleaning pipes. So many of the ones you can buy these days are made for arts and crafts purposes and will leave a bunch of fuzz behind.

I just gotta say that this video is GOLD info on forged and cast I'm a senior moulder in a high spec foundry And what Tony is telling you is spot on.....for whatever thats worth

I always wanted to know how to tell good crack from bad crack. New Yorkers learn this at a very young age. Thanks UTG!!

Numbering the video's in the series. Great job listening to your subscribers UT !!!!!

Need to start a garage band with that hammer and crank

In a forging, the grains follow the shape of the part. In a casting the grains are random. The forging is much stronger than the casting due to this, but, the cast crank should be able to handle 500 to 600 horsepower easily. Just a quick side note, an F-18 engine turbine blade is one grain. No grain boundaries.

Built a 70' 340 in my bedroom, lol. This sure clears up why I should have polished my forged crank rather than trade it in for a 10 under cast one at the machine shopcounter,. Live and learn. Thanks for posting this

More Cowbell !!

Tony, por favor, please use a bench, my knees are hurting!😏

I love your explanations. After a video like this I puff my chest out and walk around so tall because I am that much smarter 😂

compressed air on everything when your done cleaning has always been my practice. I've seen it where you think your good to go, and out comes more dirt. thanks Tony!

My next door neighbor was a retired machinist/ recip shop manager for Chrysler Windsor plant 2 1968-2003 .... he passed away a few months ago . He had a lot of stories about how cranks were manufactured.

Love the quarter hour format. Back in the day, 40 years ago, vocational school, engine machining class, I was very impressed by the quality of Chrysler Corp engines. Had to keep your boring bar bit sharp to cut out a cylinder. I also remember repairing the small end of the rods. Had to fit to .2 tenths of a thousand. Those were some wonderful days.

Grind off the lead in Of the socket. Works great on flex plate bolts On the Chevy's Great job UT

Extremely unlikely that I will ever rebuild a motor but I just love listening to Tony and the details such cast v forged I find to be fascinating, he has gigabytes of experience between his ears and that is gold.

Commenting for support.

Forged cranks have a wider parting line where the excess material is removed. Cast cranks have a sharp thin line from the mold. Easy to see between #1 main and #1 rod on those 2 shafts. I was in the crank business for 25 years and I don't ever remember seeing a factory nitrided cast iron shaft. But I've been away from it for 15 years so...maybe?

Haha when you started pinging those cranks both my cat and my dog started looking around the room like WTF?!?

Sounds great Tony. Thanks yur helping tremendously in ways you’ll never know buddy. !!!!!!

You'll never learn this from a Chilton manual.

When I stripped a 318 for rebuild, I used a bolt buster (induction coil) - worked amazing! Didn't have any square drive tools so I ground a cheapy 3/8" socket extension to fit lol

All good stuff I used to get all my engines out of junk yards did the same tests back in the day. A good micrometer and a good eye/ priceless! You mentioned the journal being squeezed or sized that compresses the grain structure , super video 👍

I broke a crank in a pontiac 301. I spent 6 months through the winter time thinking it was a valve, or a rod or something. My heart dropped when I wiggled the balancer. It dropped even more when I found out the crank only had 2 counter balances.

Uncle Tony you da man!

Just a note everyone: I recently learned that MAPP (with 2 P's) hasn't been made since 2008. The yellow bottle you get now is MAP-Pro gas, with 1 P.) It's basically the same as propane, but made from propylene which burns a bit more than 100 degrees hotter than propane without added oxygen.

Spent years working at a forging plant, while we made some cranks that were twisted, not all were. We at the time made the cranks for the 7.3 powerstroke. That crank is not twisted. I owned a 1969 roadrunner and dont believe it was a twisted crank either.

Throw away that 12 'tooth' socket and get a hexagon instead.

Back in the 90s i did up a-few FIAT and Alfa Romeo Motors from the 70s..... those cranks were excellent just needed the lightest polish and were a couple of thou from factory specs......

Even though I'm not a newbie by any means when it comes to engine building, I truly appreciate you taking the time to go over all of this. It benefits the newbies by allowing them to see what needs to be looked at and, it benefits us old hands by reminding us of things we may have forgotten. Maybe you could discuss the pros/cons of 2 bolt vs 4 bolt mains. As I've said before, I'm a GM guy at heart but I always have to shake my head when I find out that someone has tossed aside a perfectly good 2 bolt block and cast crank for a 4 bolt, steel crank combination when the engine will never see high rpm. Just between me and you, I actually prefer 2 bolt main Chevy blocks because if I want to build a high revving engine, I can then have the block drilled for splayed outer bolts common with aftermarket main caps.

Wonderful video UT, but I work with case harden steels, here is a note: Tufftride = is very thin .0005 inch max, Nitride can be .020 inch depending on the steel, such as Nitralloy. carbon steel can be much less. once ground tufftride is applied, were as Nitride can be ground after with the proper stock as not remove the case hardness required.

In 92, I ported, polished, port matched my 1970 Pontiac #12 heads on the kitchen table with a whole lot of newpaper everywhere. Cone dust , paper wheels galore

Excellent would love to hear harmonics from a bad crank Thanks Unk

You can also look at the parting lines from when the crank was cast. Usually a cast crank will have a thin parting line where the 2 molds met. Forged will have a wider line on the throw.

Tony you should have a manicure and be caressing a $1000 crankshaft from one of your sponsers. You know like the guys on TV. 😉😂😂😂

Ive got a question uncle Tony. You mention the hardening process that once turned is no longer there. Can you get the process redone once turned? Also, is there a weight difference between cast iron crank & a forged steel crank??

A friend and I were talking about alloy big block chevies, and he was saying that some people dont like em because they are of the mind that they flex and wobble at high output and engine speeds. So we discussed how some people buy iron dart blocks and then relieve a heap of weight out of them and they can get pretty light , whilst not being small block light like the original ZL1s, close enough. But you can put one into a light car (with say 580 cubes plus stroked) and easily get 800hp at the crank NA with the right heads. So you could put one in a monza or a dodge colt for example and have a 8 second bracket car with the ability to turn on another 2 - 300hp with some spray and have a whale of a time doing it in S/Gas or maybe one of the comp classes if you dont want to race bracket .

I absolutely love your videos Tony, you come through so genuine and as cool of a friend anyone could have through KZfaq. Thanks for sharing you brother.

I've always used a 3/8 drive extension bar and ratchet to take out the oil filter plate retainer. The square drive fits perfectly in the inside square hole.

I saw that oil filter mount in last video n was hoping you would mention it. The surface hardening, nitride, as I understand it. Chrysler put batches of fresh cranks in an oven and purged the air out with nitrogen and held them at 700 deg F for hours. The surfaces "absorb" it and get hard

Difference in not replacing cam bearings and not turning the crank and re-sizing the rods...is a Engine lasting 20,000 miles or over 100,000,Respect your channel man....but have working in a Engine machine shop years ago....this worked years ago when engines were not as old.....re-build and machine is the proper way of truly rebuilding a engine...yes I have cut corners like this years ago......and suffered from low oil pressure or a Little slap from pistons when cold and still ran good.Have a .040 327 and a .030 396 built from 89 and 90 years ago right and still running STRONG.

Best quote. Ut. Years ago i had a shop. Well now you got a dealership with what 25 cars and a motorcycle. Lol..your the best ..

The wisdom of experience. Thank you Tony for sharing your knowledge and experiences.

So, high quality with hammer is Eb.

Really enjoying this series UT, lots of good info. Looking forward to the rest of them! Cheers

electric heat guns will surprise you too tony just to loosen a stubborn bolt takes a little longer but works

I like this series...you explain why and if you need to go to the machine shop...I just send my stuff out and I'm learning I don't have to most of the time

Sharper sound. Cool stuff. Thanks again.

This is good information, thanks for this series.

The Winter slumber/torper does lend itself to this wonderful series called "Kitchen Rebuild". I can't wait until Plan Z shake down runs however!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

huh I've never heard someone ring a crank like that, really neat. I'll have to try it with both of mine, since I'm upgrading to a forged crank(stroker) from a stock cast crank

Good stuff Ink. Happy Motoring.

Guess what. I've got a fever! And the prescription is More Cowbell!

Love the soda pop crate piston rack. Anything that works. I've got a bunch of different things like that for holding parts and tools and whatever

Forged rings in F, cast rings in E. 😝

We'll note that this "Kitchen Engine Rebuild" is not happening anywhere near Uncle Kathy's kitchen. Clearly, One does not cross Uncle Kathy. It would not end well.

What does it mean when I can smell that crank in the closeup? To be fair the 301 was designed to be the cheapest possible lightweight design, and they did a lot of things to drop weight and expense. even the turbo engines were not the greatest example of Pontiac. The 400s and 455s on the other hand, the 70s engines were just as good as the earlier ones. The 400 block with a casting number ending in 557 is a bit weaker, so they aren't the best choice for something with a longer stroke and more RPM, but the rest of them are good for over 800hp. The best thing about a 301 is that a 400 or 455 will bolt right in where the 301 was, using the same mounts and transmission... sometimes the same accessory drive.

I will have to clean off the kitchen bench! Great series!

Tony, in the case of those oil filter adapter fittings and similar fittings, I've been using an internal pipe wrench.

Good day, Uncle Tony.

U.T. Great videos - however this is the second LA Mopar crank video you have done and both times I have been waiting for you to talk about the rear main seals on them. How do we check to see if the seal surface is ok? And which is better, the rope seal or the 360 style rubber seal? Because the rope seals in my country are getting extremely hard to source now. Thanks

If you get an "off" ring, there is a chance the crank is cracked.

Gack and cracks. My favs!

Great information thank you tony

Wide web on a forged, ground, thin cast line on a cast, linear grain going long wise, allows flex, as a cast is more like oil vinaigrette swirl kinda as it cools, so grain pattern or lack of makes them second.I never had a crank cryoed but have heard that will reline the grain, if true you'll have a lighter,, and as strong as a forged unit, lighter is r.p.m. which is horsepower.

Thanks Tony great video.

Great series buddy!

Very helpful thanks Tony

If you put a harmonic damper on the crank and try the hammer test, it wont make any sound..

Uncle T, are you going to cover your recommendations for cleaning the oil galleries in the block after you get it back from the machine shop? Really enjoying this series. Thanks.

Thought I heard a Christmas song starting there for a second:]

It's a bit like the wizard of OZ really... Uncle Tony's off to see the wizard and the good witch is asking "are you a good crack or a bad crack?" :D Enjoying the series! keep it up. Cheers,

I think you were beginning the notes for tubular bells on those cranks. Time to start a crankshaft band.

Great video

Use a 6 point socket better yet if you are just started to get to the stuck fasteners

Right on

Good info!

Great information. Thx !:)

340 went to cast crank in April 1972, same year they cut the balls off with lower compression pistons and smaller valves...

Mitsubishi did coated their cranks on the 4g63. On them once cut you midaswell throw it in the garbage.

Keep at it Boss..

Uncle Tony did not mention the counterweight parting line difference between forged and cast. Sharp line=cast, wide irregular line=forged.

UT, as always enjoying all the vids. On the SBM, the oil filter adapter, does it matter which side of the gasket goes against the block? And which side of the “thingy” gets threaded into the block? Asking for a friend whose engine was dismantled and cleaned without noting such intricacies! Thanks in advance!

Uncle Tony, I wish you would have talked about the pilot bushing for a manual transmission.

Hey Uncle Tony how you doing I love your videos I just wanted to tell you I own a 1966 formula s barracuda with a four speed a 3/4 rear 273 four barrel I owned it back in 2002 that same year I traded it for an AMX my wife of today got me that car back 2 years ago she bought it for me and I own it again isn't that a great wife you said you used to live in Staten island I'm from Jersey I used to deliver Otis spunkmeyer cookies all over Staten island Amboy avenue highland boulevard bowling on the Green Bay Street I even know that broad Street is a bad area Richmond terrace cottingham Arthur kill all over the place I like Staten island he reminds me of Mafia stuff keep up the good work on your videos my wife was laughing so hard one day when I showed you your video when you said I'm Uncle Tony and into your wife you said this is Uncle Kathy that was funny 😂😂😂😂

Tony do you always keep your cranks vertical prior to assemble? I realize once out of the engine they become vulnerable to damage. Again in 15 minutes your tutorials are well thought out, thanks again from your students.

I want the sound of those cranks ringing as a phone ringer now hehe hahahahaha that is awesome.

Now when yer Cwank Quacks offer it some Qwackers and send it back to the park, probably not a Crank.

I thought for sure you were going to pull out another one of our old guy secrets and polish up a journal. Semichrome and a long cotton shoe lace wrapped about 4 times around the journal.

As a pontiac guy i have to say the 301 is a boat anchor......i have one in my 79 and that thing wont get out of its own way.......

FYI, with a hose set to run oxygen and MAPP gas you can braze, and weld some.

I lost some money on this test with a cast steel eagle crank. Sounded like a forged crank

Good info...wish I had it years ago.lol

Musical magic!

Fun fact about a modern MAPP gas torch.... they haven’t had MAPP gas in them since 2008. Now filled with propene.

I'm surprised that uncle tony didn't mention the parting line of the crankshaft. the forged one will have a thicker parting line then a cast one. I would really like to see a "ring" test between a known good crank vs a crank with a crack.

Someone needs to sample him tapping the crankshafts and use it as a wavelength to play the Mario theme.

Been a while since tearing down a motor, but maybe mention numbering parts for future reference?

Forged, shot peened, Nitrided you have an excellent crank when done properly!

Awesome

best way to bust rust? MAP gas and a SIX point socket!