Never seen someone with so much southern railroad equipment

I have used a stainless steel washer to burnish the rails, then a wipe over with Inox.

I have been using ink erasers, and they seem to be working nicely

I just use small blocks of wood from a 1/2 furring strip, probably pine, i think. I have several of them and just rub them along the rail head to polish the rail. When the blocks are dirty, I just sand them clean and use them again. I also vacuum every once in a while, too. I threw out all my bright boy abrasives years ago and don't use any oils or cleaners. This keeps my track dry and prevent it from acting like a dust magnet. I've been doing it this way for years and don't experience any of the dead spots or stalling I used to have when I would use any of the other "fads" that seem to make the rounds every now and then.

Cost = $15+ Freight = $31+...... I'll use IPA! Thanks for the fine video! Keep 'em coming!

I just use 1000 grit sandpaper, and wipe with a micro-fiber towel. I have a microscope similar to what you are using, and it doesn't seem to damage the rails. Since I don't allow plastic wheels on my track at any time, it's rare that I have to clean the indoor layout at all. The outdoor layout is a bit different, but that's exposed to the elements.

I've never used abrasives to clean my nickel track, only paper towel and 99% alcohol. I have to do it fairly often but seems to do a very good job of keeping my DCC locomotives running smoothly.

I haven't used any sort of abrasive in decades. I still have my Bright Boy from the '70s. I'm a chemical wipe guy.

Good to see you back Larry. I hope you are doing well.

Thanks Larry, that does seem to be a better option than the traditional brite boy - as you mentioned, the round nature of the abrasive material used is more likely to burnish than scratch the rail... For damage already done, a steel washer of appropriate size to span the rails screwed to a block of wood will burnish the surface and "heal" the scratches imposed by using other aggressive methods of "cleaning"... (Sharp side away from the rails!) Follow that with a wipe of IPA on a towel - and then just maintain with track cleaning cars, or the occasional re-wipe. (Or the good 'ole fashioned rombus shaped pink eraser - like is used to clean dirt & oxidation off copper contacts.😉) My 2 cents, fwiw - Charlie

Well....im watching this 14 hours late, and there are no more of these blocks for sale on the planet...lol. I'll add it to my wishlist. Thanks for the great video.

Charlie Bishop just posted that Richard Brighton from DCC Concepts had advised him that the intended use would be a light circular, rather than a linear 'scrubbing', motion.

I bought a product called 'Sandflex' about four years ago and have been using it (fine grit) as a track cleaner ever since. Made in Germany. May be the same product. Usually sold in a three-pack with a medium and coarse grit included. I only use the fine for rail cleaning.

Thank you for the video, I am on the Iron Planet wait list for this product.

Thanks for sharing that info.

Thank you for sharing.👍

Great video! Thank you for the info.

Great useful info Larry 😊

i bought 2 bright boys back in the 1970's, one is still mint and the other has reduced 60% but still exists and is used...few products last 50+ years and Bright Boy is/was the best ever track eraser

Thanks!

Good to know for beginners, experts, and everyone in between.

Thanks Larry

Like you, Larry, I use a "bright boy" as a last measure. Recently, I purchased from Walthers their Cratex Abrasive Block Extra Fine (PN 49-522). Since I am having to do the initial post-ballasting cleaning, removing the glue, etc., from the rails, the more aggressive bright boy is almost mandatory. However, I follow that with the Cratex block and can actually feel the latter slide across the rails as it tends to polish the surface ..... it surely has made a difference in rail smoothness. I'm satisfied with the Cratex block for the final cleaning before running my track cleaning cars. Seems to be working really well and I'm not getting any significant buildup on the rails themselves. In the long run, I believe that I will not be needing any track cleaning except the cars themselves. As Marklin-of-Sweden says in his video, he has found that running trains often (with metal wheelsets, of course) keeps the track clean by itself. FWIW and IMO, of course. 😎

Thanks again Larry 👍. I use a Garyflex (fine grade) block but will have a look at the DCC product.

Thank You. David

I use mr clean blocks, use them wet with your favorite cleaning liquid, or dry, i also cut them down like you Larry

Hi Larry & it's is Randy and i like yours video is coo & Thanks Larry & Friends Randy

Thanks for the info Larry. Definitely going to trade up 👍

I believe that DCC Concepts recommends a circular motion when cleaning track, probably why the block is larger than other types. Not sure what difference the difference cleaning motions would have, but it would be interesting to hear your take on a trial between the two. Thank you.

It might have been nice if you'd show the rail after being cleaned with Mineral Spirits alone, no abrasives. To compare. I never use any abrasive, ONLY MS. Followed of course, by graphite.

Larry, thanks for this really clear helpful video

Yup, wait list for this product.

Perfect makes a yellow track cleaner. I have been using them since the 1970's. They are more like an eraser and don't eat the track.

GLUE WOOD BACK BRIGHT BOYS

Way off topic but you mentioned in Episode 246, Easy Signals that to make sure that you are able to locate a message on an old episode to make a comment on a newer episode. Thanks for the great explanation in Episode 246 on how to wire signals. The circuitry is pretty basic: two hot leads (one to each rail), one neutral (black lead to frog) and a two pole switch (the turnout). I'm using Kato #6 turnouts and I can't seem to find how to connect the black lead to the frog. Appreciate any help.

Yeah, this is not available in the US. Those that advertise on EBay charge 38 bucks for shipping.

Thanks Larry, very good information. The other thing I constantly hear about is burnishing the rail and I wonder if that would repair rail that already has scratches or if it would polish new rail that has never been cleaned and make it so it wouldn’t get dirty?

This looks like the Roco 10002 track cleaning rubber.

Larry, This question is about walkways. Do you know where to get Morton pattern in brass or stainless steel?? looking to fix an Intermontain 4750 hopper. Plano is sold out for Intermountain hopper cars. Thanks for all the information you share for the model railroader.

Surprise surprise Larry

I use pink erasers

Is not Aluminum Oxide know as solid Rocket fuel? Wasn't it one of the reasons that the fire on the Hindenburg started in first place since the canvas panels were coated with it and attached with a non-conductive cord to the framework.

Hi Larry, very interesting update on track cleaners. You mention Cratex blocks, which are currently my go to track cleaning block, but you did not mention where the silicon carbide falls on the list of abrasives? I was told the Cratex blocks are less abrasive than a Bright Boy. Is this true, or was a fed a line to sale a product? Thank you Larry for this video. Also are there any updates on your previous video where you applied a track cleaning product your your track? Cheers, Rich S.

My club had used Bright Boys for quite a few years and then began to have reliability issues due primarily to corrosion from scratching of the rail. But just curious, since the issue is to do with electrical contact (or more specifically for DCC, electronic contact) then why not use electronic contact cleaner, such as CRC QD Electronic Contact Cleaner, MG Nu-Trol, WD-40's electronic contact cleaner, or others?

Thanks for your video Larry. I’ve used brightboys for years and had no idea there were different abrasives in them. How does this correlate with the NoX videos you did a few months ago. If I remember correctly you didn’t recommend any abrasive cleaning method. Please expound on the two products and their interactions.

What happens if you've already used a traditional Brite-Boy on your track? Does the new one smooth out those grooves or are you just out of luck?

I don't see a link to the other Video?

Can you give em a wweb site where I can find this product.?

So how do you clean the bright boy

Also do you know what grit size it is, Like 240 or more like 600 grit.

Does anyone in the US sell track cleaning blocks like the one made by DCC Concepts? The shipping from England costs as much as the track cleaning block.

No link to video!!

Using ANY abrasive to clean soft metal is a stupid, stupid idea. The most abrasive thing I would EVER use on my track is a cotton sock. Dah.

A fine Scotch-bright pad works just as well and is a lot cheaper! Ten dollars for a small rubber eraser is riduclous!