I have used filler before, it is a solid alternative, however there are some problems with it: - the filler in the tube can dry too fast, so, once you open it, make sure you try to use most of it with a couple of days to get the most bang for your buck. - most filler tends to be white, meaning in almost all cases you will need to paint over it, an added benefit to stirland mud is the paint come mixed in. - filler can shrink after drying. and this can lead to unpredictable results, and sometimes cracks, which in most cases is bad. stirland mud shrinks too, kinda, but I haven't seen it leave cracks.(yet) - imo the worst issue. Filler can easily get damaged during play or during transport. It will simply chip off the base, leaving a hole in your pretty finished base that you're going to have to repair, by most likely filling it up again, which means you need to very careful when applying you don't get filler on your pretty painted model, then you need to paint that part over again as well. So it most certainly isn't a bad alternative, it tends to be somewhat cheap. But I personally wouldn't recommend it for basing. I would, however, very much recommend it for terrain! when you have a sturdy wooden base, and most likely, room to safely store the terrain pieces, there's much less chance of damage. Imo a much better alternative, that will also save you in the long run, is the AK terrain series of products. ak-interactive.com/product/terrains-dry-ground-250ml/ I use them for my bases now for a long time, and the pots don't dry out. They come with paint in them, and they have different sorts with different textures. It also will not chip. At €9 you get 250 ml, where as for stirland mudd you get only 24 ml for €6.3 LOL! that's a nobrainer for me then....

You could put the rock in after applying the filler, as well, so that it has the look of having been in place for a long time effect as well.

It's been already said, but the tubs and tubes will dry out pretty fast once they are opened. You can buy fillers in powdered form which will last forever. You can make them stronger by mixing a bit of white glue into the filler. It will make it less prone to chipping and help it stick to the base.

Crackle paste is what I use. Available in art stores or online. It's the best alternative I've found so far. You get a lot your money and it's really tough. Good video.

Been making my own now since watching Luke APS video on it, Poundland is your friend 750ml Filler (£1) & I usually add cheap black acrylic paint (£1) Again from the pound shop then add cheap sand & you have yourself a fairly decent astrogranite. Haven’t used the filler on its own so after seeing your results will have to give it a shot. 👍 GW texture paints are outrageously over priced 🙃 great video ❤️

what an absolute game changer, such a helpful video!

I use the indoor filler for this because it comes in a tub I can get into to mix things into it. I find that the indoor stuff is a bit too smooth so I add some sand. I also find it's a little too soft when it dries so I add some Mod Podge to make it firm up more. Then to make it more like the professional products I add some paint to it as well, usually dark brown (I just use the cheap craft paints you get for less than $1ea) but sometimes I use black to make a medium gray. This mix ends up with a decent approximation of the ground texture paints from GW or Army Painter for way less cost. I have had great success with it too.

I love it, and instantly started doing it

YOU MAKE MY DAY MAAAAAAN SO GLAD WITH YOU

This is a great video. Thanks for putting it together.

Works really well! Enjoying your basing videos :-)

The style works for me

Cool.tutorial Sir. Very classical way. I initially thought you would prepare some recipe with fila, pigments and inks in a ready to use mixture.

Gord Enquist If you don't drink coffee, but like TEA : Keep, save and let dry, loose tea, or T bags or herbal teas. When dry inspect for texture, some teas have almost branches in the mix. Small is good. Depends on scale of your figures. Now mix up some PolyFilla, dark brown or black craft acrylic paint, white glue and car window washer fluid, add the T leaves and adjust the mixture so you have a nice pasty mush. Like peanut butter spread it on your bases, let dry and paint. Cheers

Just discovered your channel & subbed, and it looks like being off work this next week is working out quite well as I have a lot of videos to catch up on & now 2 years worth of yours to add to that...lol

I use Durham Rock Hard Putty. Dirt cheap, mix it up with some brown paint and a drop of black ink and enough water to make a paste

Ever try the Vallejo texture pastes? They are my go to. They have a dark brown, peanut butter brown, and some white/gray colors. They stick to anything and you can push in rocks and other basing items right into it instead of gluing. It’s great.

Iv'e actually used "light joint compound" on bases to make fire and lava effects.

You can add some craft paint to the filler and then its about the same as the citadel

yep been doing this for a long time :) i often mix craft paint into it sp if it chips it doesnt show white. Great video :)

Cool. Polyfiller for the win!

I have been using pre mixed bathroom grout and painting over it with a dilute Burnt Umber oil paint . Follow this up by dry brushing in either grey or yellow ochre (oil or acrylic) paint and then static grass applied with PVA glue as usual. Use of grout is generally better than standard filler as it will give a much more grainy surface for the paint to sink into. The Burnt Umber oil paint (diluted with white spirit) allows you to vary the opacity of the colour very easily. This allows you to vary the colour from desert sand to mud without having to buy different paints. If you want a cheap easy texturing alternative for rocks etc then you might try budgie grit (unused of course...). I have been using these techniques for about 35 years now for many thousands of figures.The main drawback is that painting with oils/white spirit does smell when drying compared to modern acrylic mixes and it and the oil paints do need to be given a few hours to dry. As mentioned in other comments you need to repair any damage as the white filler stands out if the paint is damaged. However, if you have large armies with a large base area or large dioramas to paint then you will find that the grout and oil paints/white spirit will go a VERY long way and a tiny fraction of the price compared to the proprietary basing textures/paints now available.

Bird Sand + Filler + Color u want.....done. (maybe some Water) any questions?

I use Vallejo Brown Earth Gel, 200ml which is about $14 usd.

Have you tried dry brushing the white with a blue for a snowy ice base? Just curious how it would work out if you have.

I believe (edit) Dryad Bark is the same brown as Stirland mud, I have used it for touch ups in the past.

Even better: Superglue and grout. Then paint. You could use PVA even, I just like the superglue and its super cheap where I get it.

Love this, very informative and shows exactly the processes you took to get to the finished stage. Just one question I was hoping you could answer, when you added the rocks, was that before or after the filler had dried? Thanks :)

What kind of rocks did you use for the one with the army painter tufts?

I use filler on my bases of plastic soldiers from Victrix etc, it adds some pleasing weight to the model.

Another option is to get some pot of drywall plaster and mix in sand and the color of your choosing.

Just buy a massive tub of ‘basetex’ from colour party if you’re in the U.K. and you can’t be bothered making your own.

also if you get some cheap plastic gears off ebay you can do skitarii bases this way

just a sugestion try useing tile grout it comes pre coulored

you could also put the figure in.. and pull it out and you have foot prints.. or when you mount a figure in it it will look like he's in the mud if you paint it right.

Hey dude how did you build the little plateaus on which you fixed the bases if you don't mind me asking? :)

So what is the actual chemical compound/makeup of this product. I live in the states, trying to find something similar. Thanks!

You can really go hard on the highlights as army painter really mutes when allowed to cure fully. It could also be my lack of shaky shakes and conservative layers that generates the very feathered blend as well.

Thankfully the one that I bought will probably last me another year or two lol But this is good info to have.

Pre mix spackle for our US cousins 🤘

I do similar, but use craft paint. Works just fine.

Should you prime the base before?

Is this the same as "spackle" in the US?

Since it's white, I'd use contrast paint...

Did I hear a call out to pitch meeting?

There certainly are ways around GW's nonsense when it comes to that basing texture stuff, he just have to know what to look for!

remember to rough up the base first

you might want try wood filler

Wilko cheap ?! Naaaaaa haha good video though haha

That stuff is more expensive than my single-malt and doesn't taste near as good! But really, the cost is obscene and the Citadel pots are a spill waiting to happen.

5 Pounds is a lot of money for a small pot of fake mud. I think using alternatives is a far better option than wasting money on model paint that is, quite frankly, a rip off.

This could have been a five minute video.