Hadn’t even thought about removing the adhesive. Thanks for the tips!

Let me share my experience so far. So we got a 8’ diameter stock tank that is 2’ deep from tractor supply. And that soft gray “putty” type material was on it as well. LOTS of scraping, tons of sanding with 60 grit with palm sander and angle grinder, then on to a 45% vinegar wash down, then cleaned again with regular water, then let dry and we used 8 total cans of the sem self etching primer. We might could’ve used 9 or 10 but that’s all we ordered so we went with it. It was covered but not very thick. Oh well. So a few days later we applied the pond shield. I did not re sand after primer had dried, I hope I don’t end up regretting that decision. Anyway we mixed up 4 cups with 2 cups hardener for our first attempt. Didn’t really seem to spread very well with brush or roller. Definitely didn’t look like the even coat you got in your video. Then I broke out the squeegee. That worked awesome, except anytime you stopped moving you’d leave a built up line. So then I thought maybe I can smooth out that line with the roller. Big mistake. Maybe the epoxy had already partially set, but it started ripping the cloth nap out of my roller and depositing “hairs” into my coating. I did take care as to not use a cheap sponge roller like you shared in your instructions. All I can say is do not try to use a roller once this stuff starts to dry. It’ll rip any roller apart, even decent fairly expensive cloth nap rollers. The squeegee works great especially for the bottom of the tank. I ended up with two coats on the bottom and one thin coat on the walls before dark. I covered it to keep bugs out and will uncover it in the morning after the dew is gone. Gonna try to put another coat on the sides but I think I’d rather get kicked in the teeth than to sand anymore. This project is a lot to take on and I would work with pond shield on something a lot smaller such as a smaller tank like he’s doing before I tried a pool. Just my humble advice. Im probably gonna end up using the whole 1.5 gallon kit on this tank. Not sure if that’s correct coverage or way too much or way too little, but im gonna use it all. Might as well. I just hope tomorrows coat sticks without sanding. If it doesn’t, im prepared to call it a loss and throw my hands up. Im soooo tired. I think it’s a great product as long as you know what you are doing, but beware it’s nothing like painting. It’s definitely a whole different ball game. And don’t think you’re gonna use a brush or roller the next day or even a hour later. It’ll be solid as a rock. Have new brushes and roller replacements ready. Also don’t let the epoxy dry on the roller and then think you’ll change out the roller head later cause you won’t without trying to cut it off the roller head. You ain’t pulling it off if it’s dry, trust me😂 anyway just thought I’d share my experience/nightmare. Also if you do take on a pool, have a partner help so you can cover the tank faster before it starts to set up. Good luck!

Thank you so much for the extra instructions and specifying that I need the 60 grit flap disc and the self etching primer!

Nice job; a bit of work but the end result looks great. I've used Pond Armor to build a plywood aquarium and it worked well and I've wondered about using it on a galvanized stock tank so this video answered my questions.

Glad to see the new content. I would like to see Stainless steel to concreate with fiberglass and PondArmor in a pond or example of.

Thank you for the tutorial!

Also I was helpful to hear that I need to wait one hour between coats.

a nice project would be a nice long wood planter to be used as a pond filter

I must apologize for some of the later responses we made here. We try and get back to all comments as quickly as possible. Unfortunately, the notification system for comments was not getting back to us and with all that happens during a water feature season, we simply missed some. We hope you were able to reach us via phone to assist at that time.

Good stuff! But I think most of youtube wants to see YOU put the skirt on at the end! 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Thank you for the video, I'm looking forward to getting started on my project. I see that you use 60 grit in the beginning; do you use a different grade of sandpaper for scuffing up after coat #1? Thanks!

Thank you for this video! I want to try this and saw the delta blue but was not sure how the color would turn out.

Is it necessary to sand in between coats if it’s left to sit for 12-14 hours? Too hot to finish the second coat today and I’ll need to finish up tomorrow

Can y'all make a 2x2x5 stock tank bathtub video please

Would using a hard sealer such as JB water weld to the seams (after removing silicone and galvanization) work? Or would silicone caulk after applying pond shield still be best practice. I will be converting a large stock tank into a cold plunge, thanks!

Can you give us an update? I've done some research and I've seen instances where after a year the pond shield is peeling in places and looks discolored. And they followed the directions just like in this video. How does the Pond Shield hold up to the chlorine over time?

What about using the Pond Shield primer you sell instead of the primer in the video?

I have a 8’ diameter stock tank pool. Over three years it has rusted and I would like to try this product to save my pool. I have been sanding for days (ugh). I am not able to remove ALL of the rust. Can I apply the primer and then epoxy without that rust coming back to haunt me?

what is the coverage to know how much Pond Shield to purchase? I will be doing the stock tank pool.

Does Pond Shield hold up well to hot water? We're using our stock tank as a hot tub. Temps up to about 105 degrees. Thanks

Rust-Oleum's "self etching primer" doesn't work well with Pond Armor? I bought a box of it a year ago when I bought everything for this project. Should I get the primer you mentioned instead?

I’m trying to convert a chest freezer into a cold plunge using your product. Would you recommend foregoing caulking at the metal seams and just use pond shield? Or is there a way to apply caulking so that wouldn’t affect quality of pond shield application

How long should you let it dry and cure before you can fill it with water?

All good to use a 60 grit sanding sponge?

Thanks for the video. What happens if the pond shield epoxy is placed over the polyurethane sealant included in the stock tanks? Does it re-emulsify the sealant?

Do you have a list of the products we need? You said SEM to get at an auto parts store. Where do we get pond armor epoxy You said hardener with no product name or anything. I need specifics. This is the first kind of project I'm doing like this. A step by step transcript would be very helpful on this and future projects for the novices in the bunch.

How much alcohol gets added to the 1:1 mixing ratio? Is it 1:1:1?

What specific roller is being used? What is recommended?

Is this product durable throughout a Minnesota winter? The stock tank would be empty of water.

Is the can of clear supposed to be half full like that?

How long should one let it cure before adding water?

your pond shield is total rubbish.. I have a few points first of all when I asked for some to finish a small job you could have sent me some as good will. Instead I had to spend more bloody money on this stuff. I asked you if Art none toxic resin could do the job and your response was a joke...1st point its inconsistent it sets very past in a small tub or one of the tins supplied and yet takes hours to set when applied onto a planter box. ( box made of plywood) I ruined a total full load because the tin had gone rock solid tin was red hot. 2nd point after having bought another pack. I thought maybe I had a bad batch... So bought my 3rd pack. I applied it again to cover an area that was soft and gooey it never dried as such the coating had to be ripped up. I started again on that area after sanding it down which was a job in itself . Applied another coat 50% part A and part B. The coating after 1 hour was still not dry.. In the mean time I made another batch this being batch 2.. batch 1 was still not dried. Left batch 2 to sit in a plastic mixing container for about 5 minutes. I came back checked batch 1 on the wood still wet batch 2 was rock hard total solid what the hell is going on this stuff is inconsistent Ive spend £150 on this stuff its useless and a waste of time I would be better off using fibreglass resin instead... I am not happy and your attitude when I asked for some advise on if art resin could be used as an alternative was very rude. regards.