A Man who is incredibility Talents; and willing to share it to Others; with a very kind Narrative; is none, but our Peter Parfitt! The "Cut-Above" for sure.Thank you kind Sir. It's always a joy; to see new things thar you teach. Cheerio! None Finer, and remember, we❤you.

First of all let me say, I absolutely enjoy listening to you explain things. I have watched dozens of your videos now and can say you are an excellent presenter. Wish there were more like you on KZfaq. Very articulate, informative and straight to the point. No loud annoying music, trying to be funny while failing or a bunch of fluff. And your British accent doesn't hurt either. 😄I think you pretty much have me sold on the parf system now. Also, I was wondering the whole time why you had the fence on the right side and then you explained it. Make a perfect sense now. Thank you!

Peter -- I, too, prefer having the fence to the right of the track. However, as others have pointed out, it's not the way Festool designed the track to be used. Because the splinter guard protects the wood to the left of the right edge of the track, and not the wood to the right of the track, the portion to the right is supposed to be the offcut. Nor is having the fence to the right of the track necessary to prevent the 'two-step' process of squaring up the edge of the board and then flipping it end for end to have the 'good edge' against the stop. Simply have the piece you're cutting to the right of the track, slide the left end/edge of the wood under the track a few millimeters, trim the end/edge, and then move the squared up edge against the stop to cut the piece to length/width. The problem with this approach is the sliver of wood cut off to square up the piece will be trapped under the track. And, this squaring cut will not be protected by the splinter guard. So, why do I prefer to have the fence on the right? I like to be able to see what I'm cutting. That's particularly true if the 'keeper piece' will be completely covered by the track. In such a case, I cannot visually verify that the work is tight against the fence/dogs. Sure, it works, but it just feels uncomfortable.

Very well explained Peter. Thank you. I guess the only possible advantage to having the fence on the other side of the track and therefore rotating the work piece is that both finish cuts are completed under the splinter guard. As always with your videos I enjoy the resulting thought process. Cheers. Take care. Dave

Hi Peter, thanks so much for sharing this video. I was one of the people who asked you a question about fences recently. You said you'd be getting it done "very soon" and this was definitely very soon! Really appreciate it.

Thanks Peter, very well explained 👍🏼

Love the set up! Once again you thought everything out for us! Thanks Peter

Thank you Peter, very helpful and clearly articulated

Hello, Peter, I like your track saw Ax fence design. I use the Festool wings & guides all the time- they are absolutely remarkable: life before them is mind boggling in retrospect, as they do exactly what you explained at the Kapex.

Another wonderfully helpful explanation Peter.

Simplistic genius.... Peter Perfect... Thanks matey

Very helpful, Thank You 🙏

I am in the process of building my own MFT, and I think that you had pointed a serious flow in the "standard" MFT crosscutting configuration in a combination with a fence: The fens scale running to the left of the table, with a small area to the right of the fence for the waste side. In this configuration, if you want to crosscut a 250cm X 60 cm board to lets say 80cm L X 60cm W sections, you have to first trim the edge with the board feeding from the left side of the table, than flip the board end to end, and feed it from the right side with the fence stop set to 80cm. This means that you need another support table on the right side, no matter how long your table is. It makes much more sense to setup the track in the middle of the table, or biased to the left leaving a grater length for the waste/feeding side to the right.

Good evening thank you for a very interesting video. I liked your set up and also the excellent explanation.

Hi Peter, a good set up you have got there, and I like it as it all falls in to place for that perfect fit. As always well explained and good video. Take care

Thanks Peter, got a few bits and bobs from Axminster/ink over years here in NZ. However the way you have done it doesn’t let you use the anti chip guide on the track and for me cutting melamine all time it’s not practical. However will look at options Thanks for the video

Yet another great video. Like the fence on the outfeed side, makes for parallel cuts. If the table is not 100% or made with parf guide system. Yes great UJK, for me the best dogs/system on the market.

I was just thinking the other day that a right side fence would be more useful for an upcoming project that will require multiple 2 and 3 inch strips off a piece of plywood. Now I have a better idea how to make it happen. Thanks.

Happy New Year Peter. As always a very well, clear and concise presentation. One query though, with your fence to the right, does your saw not hit the fence before you can complete your cut? Len (Devon 🇬🇧)

Excellent

This is just Fabulous Peter. I think the Kreg ACS and saw set up with the track saw being a left side waste cut Vs festool right side waste cut makes sense and would compliment your system/design. Unfortunately not sold in the UK.

Hi Peter, I have a question about the fence & length stop. In this video you demonstrate simply pulling it up off the table and relocating it. In another video you made a couple of years ago you show tightening the bench dogs down from underneath the table top to insure a tight fit. Has the fence been redesigned? Is it still necessary to tighten it down?

Great setup - however I like a pair of the flat parf system fences as they support the stock under the track and have more versatility as you have demonstrated in other videos when used perpendicularly with routers or domino. I actually have three as sometimes I will use the third for a first cut and then the other two at another level to do the second cut with the piece flipped so splinter guard does its job esp if I have a stop set for multiple repeat cuts on the pair

Hi Peter, I have my fence on the other side and I have it there for two reasons. 1 - When setting the fence with my story stick I can push the story stick up to the rail, I don't need to leave a 2.2mm gap to allow for the kerf of the blade. 2 - By doing it as you do, you're using the waste side as your good side. That's probably not a big issue with the quality of blades and cuts but the splinter guard on the rail is preventing and tear out , so the further your cut is from it the more likely you'll get tear out. If you think about the Festool Parallel guides they're all designed to work so that the waste side is the waste side. Also the same is true for all the rail squares with fences

Hi Peter, another great video, succinctly explained, how do I obtain a cutting/layout drawing for your new Cutting Station? Thank you Steve

Useful overview. Two issues with the right hand fence. Having calibrated using aTS55, you will get a slight error if you switch to a TSC55 because of the thinner blade. More significantly the splinter strip will not be protecting the finished piece because it is on the “waste” side. That noted, Peter’s proposal is an easier way of dealing with narrow cuts and less cumbersome than using parallel guides like TSO’s worthy narrow stock option.

Putting the fence on the right, you have to remember to allow for the blade thickness when calibrating the fence & stopblock, once done it does seem to make more sense

Hi Peter, another great tutorial as usual, I watched your video on the low profile UJK Parf system and stop , I would appreciate your thoughts on what do you think are the advantages of this new fence system over the low profile one ? Regards Dave.

A very clear video, thanks. The only query that I have is how do you allow for the thickness of the saw blade when using your right hand fence? You appear to have used your 'story stick' up against the splinter guard, which would I assume leave your cut short by the thickness of the saw kerf? Or did I miss something.

Hi, Peter, I have the earlier, low profile version of your fence and just bought the new, higher version as well. I was hoping to use them on both sides of the track, but there’s about 12mm difference in their alignment. Do you have a fix to align them? Thanks for all the great videos, it’s really appreciated.

Wow! Great videos!! I’m new to the channel, so please forgive my questions if they’ve been answered elsewhere. If money were no object, what material would you make the top out of? I’m considering making mine from “Delrin” or perhaps euro ply with HPL in both sides. I’m also considering making it closer to 40mm thick. Would you or any viewers care to offer some advice or opinions? Thanks for the great content. Looking forward to making my own.

Nooice!

Peter, you may have covered this in other videos but if one had an existing MFT/3 top ( Festool does not guarantee the hole pattern to be square), the fence and guide rail might not be square. Does this imply that the only way to use this system is to make a DIY top with the Parf guide sticks? Also, does this system allow for rip cuts along the length of the saw cutting station (I don't have a table saw)?

I think Festool generally call the piece that is not under the track the off-cut because it is more prone to tear-out without the splinter strip supporting the top of it! That said, I've come to a similar conclusion as you have that the right hand side of the cut is more pleasant to use, especially for thinner rips. I use various sizes of combo squares to set the strip a consistent distance (+2mm) away from the edge at the front and back of the workpiece. This ensures parallel cuts which are the hardest to nail with an MFT-like setup.

Hi Peter, just a thought do you mention in the video allowance for the kerf of the blade when making your say 300mm cut? Steve

Peter, with the fence on the right side of your track saw did you have to find a new ruler/scale strip that counts from left to right? From the product photos, the included scale seems to count from right to left.

Hullo Peter, May I ask how level are your kapex tables. I heard that they have a problem with the middle revolving table being lower than the two outside ones.

Peter, did you account for the kerf with the 300mm stick and set it up with the stop?

As to why people often use the fence on the other side, could it be that the “keeper piece” of the material will have a nicer edge because it’s protected from tear out by the lip of the track?

I think the other reason why people have the fence on the other side is because the way you have it their is more likely to have chip out, as the curf cut is exposed not protected by the track. so more likely to create chips. how do you find it? (Hope that makes sence)

Hey, It is probably a stupid questions from someone who is far less expirienced than you, but does depth gauge on the tracksaw is enounough to keep that table unharmed whille cuting? Or am i missing something underneath?

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Very well explained Peter. Thank you. I guess the only possible advantage to having the fence on the other side of the track and therefore rotating the work piece is that both finish cuts are completed under the splinter guard. As always with your videos I enjoy the resulting thought process. Cheers. Take care. Dave