That is correct and put clearly. I was amazed that the maker of this video said the guitar would need a neck adjustment. He shouldn't be making videos about guitar adjustments. This is pure common sense.

@@bmfilmnut I was just going to add the statement that you put in your comment. Then I read yours. You're obviously 100 % correct on both of your comments ; He should definitely NOT be making Guitar Repair Videos. 🎸🎸🎸

Same problem goes with my les paul Can you please tell me how to fix it..? .

I will agree with that and I also agreed with exactly what you said before I read what you wrote. (Mechanical Design Technologist 1975, Certificate of Qualification Industrial Millwright Mechanic 1994)

You saved me the trouble of explaining, not good to spread misinformation, To add to it, if the strings were any different tension then the tuning would be off.

So you reduced the angle and Got better Sustain?

Agreed, If the pitch of the string is the same, its under exactly the same tension. The tension dictates the pitch, along with diameter and material (which havent changed). The difference in tension only differs at the string between the bridge and tailpiece, which becomes dynamic with a shallow enough angle.

sobo2001 The tension in a string is ideally the same all the lenght - from tuner to nut, from nut to bridge, from bridge to tailpiece. No matter what the angles are. Would only differ if you have too much friction on the nut or bridge-saddles.

@@sobo2001 Thank you. Was thinking the same thing. The pitch is determined by the gauge and tension. Raising the tail piece will do nothing other than changing the angle the string comes off the saddle.

tension is pitch. this advise is non sensical

the tension relates to the tuning. so if you have each string in tune then the tension is the same at pitch. However the flatter the break angle result in less force to raise the tension and pitch as more string is available at a lower tension to "give" over the bridge and the strings have less of a tendency to bind.

ya realy, sticks?

@@christineblack4654 English, please.

@@12south31 I'm french so f.u.

@@christineblack4654 I still don’t understand what you tried to say. All I know now is you probably have hairy armpits and you’re a bitch.

Any screwdriver set for Firearms will work perfectly and not mar the metal with care.

Tell that to a strat player

@@tnokeefe But a strat doesn't have a stop bar tail piece

@@stutty1400 i just sent a reply but some thing is wrong with it no transmission,i will wait till later and send again cheers Terry. hope you get this.

I agree with most everything you said. All I could get out of this video was, don't use a screwdriver. I am a beginner guitarist, but no matter how long I keep it up, I'll still never have a basic understanding of physics. Some people, like yourself, are probably born with the gift of physics, but I'm pretty positive, that the majority of guitar pickers, never even spoke the word. There's tons of tools out there, specifically for gitars, that require nothing more than a good eye and a list of factory settings for the one you're working on.

MHFROX try the Fabre tone lock spacers. Excellent.

I did a little experiment where I did the exact same thing as you, added the spacers under the tailpiece posts on one of my SG's to ensure a snug fit and vibration distribution. On my other one I did not use anything, just raised the tailpiece. I thought I might see a tiny bit of difference in sustaine, but not enough that It would bother me, but I noticed zero difference. I even lied to my buddy and told him the one without spacers had them to see what he would say and he couldnt tell the difference either sound wise. However, they both felt like new guitars! My strings were so tight before. I know you have to bend a little more to achieve the same pitch when bending but it's so much easier to bend a tiny bit more than to fight with the tight string.

@@12south31 I do raised mine until it felt really nice while bending, almost no effort, still a good vibration, takes a little tweaking, totally worth it!

I agree with you, maybe he could set the guitar up take measurements and compare to the tailpiece in the other position. Proper tools for the proper job.

Initially I agreed with you, but then you contradicted yourself. If, as you say at the end, "with the stop bar down bent notes will also come to pitch more quickly with less bend motion needed", it literally means the strings are tighter, ie. more tension on the entire string.

It worked for me. A few months back I lowered the tp6 stop bar on my ES 347 and really didn't play it much, but when I did, it sound mid with no feeling. So that is why I'm here!!!!! I searched "Adjusting gibson stop bar for tone" to see what others had to say and so I raised the Stop bar and it sounds gorgeous again.

I agree with Snippy here. When properly tuned the strings will have the same tension. Beyond bending he does not explain the pros and cons of stop bars height. Most people like it low for better sustain and tuning stability. However you can have it too low such that the strings touch the back end of the bridge and they definitely should rest on the saddles alone. Not really telling us what we need to know about stop bar height.

@ Brother Snippy That‘s perfectly explained! 👍🏼

A lesson learned in my youth!

@Cristiano dos Santos Gomes Thanks, I figured it out earlier but thanks 😊

Some were called a Trapeze tailpiece. I may be wrong but I think the claw is part of the tremolo in the back of the guitar that holds the springs not the strings.

Similar to top wrapping treble strings and regular wrap bass side

All personal preference

Less pressure on saddles

Stevie Day That’s because the “raised” stop bar is now flexing towards the bridge undoing your bend requiring you to have to bend more. Raising the stop bar is not a good idea unless you are having the string hit the very back edge of the bridge before it ever gets to the saddle.

Absolutely as well as top wrapped

@@Kwisatzhaderachgiveadogabone yes sir

Me too because I have to.😁👍

What your saying is exactly right, it's just basic physics. Lower the tail piece and the distance between nut and tail piece gets longer producing a tighter string. Raise the tail piece and the distance between nut and tail piece is shorter producing a looser string. If your guitar is perfectly tuned and you lower the tail piece, you'll produce sharps.

The Chad Pad The reason you have to bend further with a raised stop bar is the “raised” stop bar itself is now flexing towards the bridge during your string bending, undoing your bending. The flexing of the raised stop bar is not good for the instrument. If you don’t believe me put an end micrometer against the raised stop bar, bend strings, watch the micrometer needle move. You bend, the “raised” stop bar flexes forward and unbends, so you have to bend more. If you have strings striking the very back edge of the bridge before they even get to the saddle then raise the stop bar just enough to stop the string/bridge back edge interference.

The position of the stopbar effects the tension of the strings at the break angle over the bridge. Intonation should not be effected as that has to do with the length of the string. Ok to check it though.

Glad it was helpful!

Understood. Neck relief may change with stop bar movement.

Put a thin cloth in the crack and then put in your standard size screwdriver.

That’s what she said

i use coins 5 or 10 cent of euro

A fine point: Cabinet makers use special screwdrivers that have no taper for this very reason. That is, so that screws don't get mangled. Mechanics and most others use tapered screwdrivers because they are more "universal". In other words, hopefully the screwdriver goes deep enough in the screw's slot to press firmly on both sides of the slot but, even then, a regular screwdriver only touches the edges of the slot. Cabinet maker's screwdrivers fit perfectly in slot from top to bottom eliminating damage to screws. The downside is that you need a complete set with blades of all possible thicknesses for your work. Clockmakers, cabinetmakers, gunsmiths, etc., use cabinet maker's screwdrivers.

And you troll Gary can move on. You don't know how to talk to people. Those who offer nothing, have nothing. To where do I send you my bill?

You should only need to raise it if a string is making contact with the bridge. Nothing robs more tone out of a guitar than a crappy bridge or nut.

HighSpeedirt1 thank you👍

Why? You dont lose sustaine or any have any negative effects raising the tailpiece a bit, but by overwrapping the strings you will ruin the finish.

@@12south31 up high for many years could possibly result in the tension pulling forward leading to structurally damaged hardware. If you're running 9s or 9.5s then no worries, but when you move up to 10s or 11s stuff can start tweaking if that bridge is set high... Not 100% guaranteed that this will happen, but the idea are stacked in favour of this happening

Hi @DT: Much of it is trial and error as each guitar can be somewhat different. Starting at 1/2 way is a good starting point.

Thanks for your comment. The idea is that there is less downward pressure on the bridge so the strings glide easier.

​@@guitarhowtos2148glide where?

Yes. That sound you are hearing is called "fret buzz." The bridge is adjustable for the purpose of adjusting the action (the distance between the strings and the frets.)

You should also adjust the neck of your guitar using the truss rod. You may need to do research on how to eliminate fret buzz and still have the action/playability correct.

Yes you can!

Adjust to your own liking 😊

2012

Andy, first of all, Almost everything he said in this video is wrong! Raising the stop has NO effect on truss rod adjustment. If you raise the stop, the strings will actually loosen, but at that point, they're all flat! When you tune them back up to pitch, they're going to be at the EXACT same tension they were before. It's physics...the frequency a string resonates at is determined by it's tension, it's length (between the nut and the bridge saddle), and its diameter. Since the string diameter and length aren't being changed, they have to be at the same tension in order to play the same note! Again...it's physics, and anyone that says different is wrong. But, YOU asked why to reverse (top) wrap on an Epi? Well, depending upon the specific guitar, there might not be ANY reason for it! But it's different for all guitars! To really understand why some people do this, you have to realize that even among the same brand and model, there is a lot of variation between guitars. The neck angle varies by up to a couple degrees in LP style guitars, and that is why some have to have the bridge way up in the air to get the right action height, and others have to have the bridge almost down to the body of the guitar! This doesn't mean anything's WRONG with the guitars! That's why both the bridge and stop bar height are adjustable in the first place! When the bridge is raised up to obtain the proper action height, the stop bar SHOULD be raised along with it, so that the break angle (of the strings down to the stop bar) is maintained. This angle is important because if it's too steep, bad things happen. First, the string contacts the back of the bridge. That marks up the bridge, and causes strings to break. But the second, and more important problem, is that with a steeper angle, the component of force being applied in the downward direction is increased! Over time this contributes to the bridge sacking out...or bending downward...in the middle. So, you might ask, why doesn't everyone just raise the stop bar along with the bridge? After all, that's how the system is INTENDED to be used, right? Right. But some folks believe that the strings will sustain better if the stop bar is screwed down all the way onto it's posts. The idea is that the more solidly the stop bar is attached to the body, the better the sustain will be due to the whole system being a more solid unit! So, these folks screw the stop bar all the way down...usually not knowing why it's a bad idea. Enter top wrapping! Top wrapping allows the people to screw the stop bar all the way down, giving them the solid contact between the stop bar and the body, while still keeping the break angle shallow enough that there isn't any more downward force on the bridge than normal! It's a pretty easy and effective solution. To me, the only downside is that top wrapping will inevitably lead to marking up the stop bar. But, stop bars are cheap and easy to replace if you decide you want to go back to normal.

Hi Bob. Not a LP yet. Many of the steps are similar for similar guitars...EXCEPT polishing and crowning frets. You have to be careful with the binding that goes over the edges of the frets on most Gibsons.

@@guitarhowtos2148 Your videos are great, Keep them coming. I watched your video on tail piece 2, and i learned the hard way, i used a screwdriver on mine, and messed up the screw. So the popsicle stick is the way to go. I wish i saw it before i played around with my LP. lol

@@bobnazaro3444 Hi Bob. Thanks for commenting! Seems that we both learned from experience! :-)

@@guitarhowtos2148 True, some of those experiences wasn't exactly what i was hoping for. lol

Raising the stopbar produces less tension as the string travels over the bridge.