Hey Rich! It does, but sometimes one needs to be certain everything is sealed properly, and this method has proven to be very effective in doing that.

Painting fire does look relatively easy when you watch an artist that is good at it. It's not. I struggled with it too for a long time. I still struggle with it at times. I appreciate the compliment; however, I don't think my fire ranks anywhere close to Mike's. You've requested a video featuring these tins once they are finished previously (I haven't forgotten). I'm not opposed to that, but it's going to be a while. The client has changed his mind and no longer wants the green paint peeling away to reveal the artwork underneath. I can salvage some of the work I've already done, but a lot of it is already being repainted. So, it will be a while longer before this bike is finished.

No rush, it's I really like this work you've done! Can't wait to see the finished product, but got to make your customer's happy! @@wickedartstudio

Thank you!

¡Gracias mi amigo!

Thank you!

Bleed Checker se puede rociar absolutamente con una pistola de 1,2 mm. Todavía no he intentado rociarlo con una pistola de 0,8 mm. Probablemente rociará bien, pero es posible que tengas que aumentar ligeramente la presión del aire en la pistola porque el producto es relativamente espeso. No aplique Bleed Checker húmedo sobre mojado. Cada capa debe estar completamente seca (lo suficientemente seca como para pasar un trapo adhesivo sobre la superficie es mi regla general) antes de agregar una capa adicional. El tiempo real que tarda en secarse dependerá de las condiciones ambientales. La primera capa debe ser una capa medianamente húmeda y tener una cobertura completa sin agujeros. No querrás simplemente empañar una capa ligera para tu primera capa.

You may get away with using transparent sealer for that purpose successfully. There are many factors that influence whether a candy will bleed into subsequent layers of paint or not. Some colors are more prone to bleeding than others. How strongly the candy is mixed and how many layers are applied are also contributing factors. At the end of the day, 6000 AutoBorne Transparent Sealer was not designed for that purpose. AutoBorne Sealer also requires reduction and reducer is known to reactivate aniline dye-based candies (that's true for water based and solvent based paint). So, as mentioned above, you might get away with it, but it will eventually fail if one relies solely on that method. I prefer to rely on the one and only product designed by the manufacturer made specifically for that purpose, 4040 Bleed Checker. Of course, none of this applies if you're using pigment-based candies. Personally, I've never been a fan of pigment-based candies simply because they have pigment in them. When a pigment-based candy is applied to full saturation over underlying artwork, the pigment tends to drown out the detail underneath. It becomes foggy for lack of a better term. The advantage of a true aniline dye-based candy in my opinion is its dye based, there is no pigment in it. The colors are completely translucent. They do get darker with each subsequent coat, but any artwork underneath remains crystal clear.

You may have taken my explanation a little too literally. 4050 and 4040 are similar in that they are manufactured by the same company (likely in the same location), and they do share ingredients according to the Safety Data Sheets. All of the ingredients and the percentages of each are a closely guarded proprietary secret by Createx Colors. So, I can't tell you specifically what the differences are; however, they are dissimilar enough that 4040 will stop a candy dye from leaching into subsequent layers of paint every single time if it's applied properly. Based on my own experience, 4050 will not. That tells me there is something in 4050 that contributes to reactivating a candy dye that is not present in 4040. Using the terms "similar" and "dissimilar" is a broad way of explaining what causes candies to bleed into subsequent layers of paint and how to stop it. Although the two products are similar because they share ingredients, they are dissimilar enough because 4040 does what it was designed to do. Also, there is no reducer added to 4040. Reducer, whether water based, or solvent based is known to reactivate aniline dye-based candies. Does that make more sense?