Still a trash motor

@@adancontrerasjr1355 not really

@@adancontrerasjr1355 lol say you’re uneducated about 6 liters without saying you’re uneducated

But the problem is when it breaks it’s totally done your truck is gone so it’s sad you have to pick and chose man I’d still put money away in savings if you do want to keep your loyalty to the 6.0

@@HappyTimes024 That is such crap!

@@HappyTimes024 that's not true. If you update egr cooler and update oil cooler. Than add a coolant filter kit. You are good to go. Main key is keeping up on oil changes using a 5-40 synthetic oil. It will go 500k

@@lonniefreeman4278 What brand egr and oil cooler to upgrade?

@@MarcoRodriguez-lr2xt sorry for late reply. I went with bullet proof diesel egr cooler and the motorcraft updated/improved oil cooler. Clean oil and clean coolant is key for 6.0.

What did it cost you?

6.0 is a junk engine. It only has 4 studs per cylinder unlike the duramax, cummins and the 7.3, 6.4 and 6.7 all have 6 studs per cylinder. 4 studs was a dumbass design right from the get go! Worst engine ever!

@@ChrisSmith-ig9jq the 6.4 also has 4 bolts per cylinder by the way

I've put 47k on my 03. Best truck I've ever owned. Pulls 22k all day. Moved me from NorCal to Arizona. 7 trips hauling 20k each time. No problem. That's 14k miles. Just replaced injectors and hpop. Lifetime warranty on the hpop and 3 year warranty on injectors from O'Riley. Runs like a dream.

Johnner26 .0 powerstroke my new favorite method lol

Yeah that won’t work.

It can be done

To replace the lifters on a 6.0 you have to basically take whole engine apart

@@lonniefreeman4278 Yes, they are a weak point. The cam needs to be checked for worn lobes also. Poor design, that you can’t get to the lifters from the top end. A 40 dollar part, that is prone to failing, can trash the whole engine.

I like to pull the engine for 3 reasons. 1. I don’t have a hoist to pull the cab... 2. Pulling the engine allows me to verify everything is clean, holes are clean, and the head gets set down perfectly.... 3. I get to reseal anything that was leaking like the oil pan/upper oil pan/bed plate etc. Overall the only extra work is disconnecting the transmission and undoing the motor mounts. But the benefits of having it removed completely outweigh that little bit of extra work. 💪

ive never pulled a block so i cant help much with that but you would have to remove the wiring harness and the grounding wires so you dont rip them upon removal, unbolt it from the transmission and fuel lines, and there are 8 nuts that hold the block to a cross beam on the frame that need to be removed before you lift it out. the wiring harness is formed to its position do to sitting in the same position for so long so when you put it back on the plugs will likely fall right back to their original place, it will be obvious where everything goes. the nuts and bolts are a challenge since there are so many. i suggest putting like nuts and bolts that go to the same component in a bag and label it so you know where everything goes. and also take pictures as some components have studs and bolts and theyre strategically placed

I wouldn’t hit it with a sanding block tool unless you want a total mess on the deck surface.

i would say cab removal is most effective... but thats a little difficult without a lift lol

No problem at all! Update the pushrods whether the heads were machined or not. Keeps the lifters alive

@@LeftLaneDiesels awesome thanks man!

No

Wtf? 6.0 is great but maybe you don't understand that overheating is not the main cause of the 6.0 head gasket failures. It's the design of the engine. My 2006 6.0 just had a head gasket failure the other day and never got hot (hence why I'm here)

lol bro its bc theirs only 4 studs to a cylinder. not enough clamp pressure. buddy

@@kobygrimes1234 The stock head gaskets and studs are fine, for a stock engine. What blows head gaskets and ruins heads and valves is over heating, over boosting, advancing timing due to tuning, and high EGT’s. I’m going on 18 years, and have never had a base engine, including turbo, fail. I don’t hot rod and abuse my truck. The later engines are good, if they are not pushed beyond their designed horsepower. The key is good maintenance, and not hot rodding the engine. BTW I tow a 9000 lb trailer up steep grades regularly. I monitor My EGTs, and back off at 100 degrees. If you think a 6 liter is bad, try a 6.4.

I honestly would get it checked by a shop to see if it will create a seal

Some later model 6.0s (like my 2007) have the shortened 6.4 updated pushrods , their slightly shorter, if you have them out measure them , the numbers can be found on Google

No good way to do it, just be mindful of it. Vacuum before you set the heads on and always do a good coolant flush once it’s running and you will be set!

@@LeftLaneDiesels yessir will do! good stuff man keep up with the trucks and the videos.. some good 6.0 content

I made a bracket and used the 4 turbo pedestal bolts to bolt my lift bracket down

@@LeftLaneDiesels thanks. I really enjoy your videos and have learned much valuable information from you. I'm working on mine now. Motor should be out tomorrow!

We did get my motor out yesterday. I plan to make a video today before I start dismantling it to start the upgrades and tell what was wrong with it. I hope you watch it after I post it

Sometimes it makes you wonder why someone would do s#$t like that!!!

Not a 6.0, but we have a 6.7 (Cummins) in the shop right now that JUST had the head gasket done, and it’s blown on cylinder 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 because someone was too aggressive trying to clean the block surface up. Idiots + engines = No!

Theeee ol whiz-wheel 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️😜🤣🤣

Any issues so far?

@@gmiles7217 truck runs better Than before . But I guess replacing tired injectors with 8 new ones from Ford along with a regulated return system will help in that department

Good for you! I just watched a video of a guy who sanded the block with 150 and 180 for a while.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ftWEeNCG25mtcac.html

@@gmiles7217 from all the research I did over months cleaning the deck surface with a quality 600 to 800 grit sandpaper on a long sanding block is the proper way to do it and the builder at UCF said that was the right grit range to use. Powerstrokehelp also showed this technique in a video but they didn’t say what grit to use. I also dabble in bodywork and I know 150 and 180 grit paper will gouge small scratches into the machined surface of the block that will act as an escape path for combustion gasses.

sorry for the long read... ford powerstrokes have had a bad rap in the light duty diesel world as they should, because they continuously have problems with their motors that competitors dont. however, its ford, and everyone associates ford with american (even though everything on the powerstroke is made in mexico) and their interiors and ride quality are far superior to ram and gm, like its not even close. because of this, powerstrokes and all the problems they have had are overlooked and people still demand them. they are and have been produced at a much higher rate than light duty cummins and duramax powered trucks, meaning the market is flooded with them and they are cheaper to purchase second hand. all diesels are expensive to work on, but there are a lot of people who have a budget and cant afford to spend 27k dollars on a 2005 cummins with 250k miles but can afford a 2005 powerstroke for 14k with 150k miles. because of this, many people who need a diesel for work or simply want one without breaking the bank turn to powerstrokes. so then it becomes what kind of motor. powerstroke motors were produced by navistar up until 2011, when the newest 6.7 liter powerstroke came out. 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 were all made by navistar and were all flawed in some way, which is why ford eventually dumped navistar and produced the 6.7 on their own. 7.3 have garbage transmissions, 6.0 tend to have bad oil and egr coolers and blow head gaskets, and 6.4 tend to have the entire long block grenade do to poorly designed parts by navistar. so for someone today, in 2020, looking at a used powerstroke who cant afford a 6.7, it usually comes down to between a 7.3 and a 6.0 (6.4s were such a basket case and a money pit that very few people consider them). the last 7.3s were produced 17 years ago in 2003... thats a long time ago. the motor has an amazing reputation for reliability, but they are just old and they ride very very rough. the 6.0 on the other hand is becoming a more and more popular option. it rides way smoother, is not as old, and produces way more power stock. because they had so many problems with the motor early on, the research and parts have been conducted and made to prevent these problems. a "bullet proof" 6.0 effectively eliminates the shortcomings of the motor (so long as you maintain it and dont abuse the motor) and makes it very reliable. add that to a relatively cheap market value, a generally solid transmission, ride quality, and a nice interior, and you can see why the 6.0 has become a popular option for people in the market for a diesel but who dont want to spend a fortune. sure people still love their 7.3s and it has earned the reputation, but as the years go on they become more and more primitive compared to newer stuff, people just have a tendency to avoid spending money on something so old. thats why the 6.0 is becoming a more popular choice

@@natewilson7664 thanks for the reply

Nate Wilson excellent reply mate. Cheers from australia

They just crack, fairly common unfortunately

@@LeftLaneDiesels that sucks... I was hope the head studs helped. Was looking at buying a ford with a 6.0

Sam wyse stage 2! Wyse auto repair in Ohio. Only place I can trust

@@LeftLaneDiesels Thank you

Stay away from ATS, heard too many Horror Stories about them. A friend of mine rebuilt quite a Few 5r110,s He also said stay away from ATS and Suncoast. Sam Wyse is a Good Choice. I highly recommend Twisted Diesel, There Level 3 Trans. Is there Top of the Line 5r110 My Friend has their Making almost 750 H.P. There Transmission hasn't skipped a beat in 3 Years, Also a Co worker of mine has theirs also and Loves it. My Transmission is still holding up at 572 H.P. 1016 Ft.Lbs. i do have a PI Converter and Billet Input Shaft. When mine starts to slip, Twisted Diesel is the One i will be going with also, i haven't heard Nothing Bad at all from them.

@@badass6.0powerstroke10 thanks, I went with Sam wyse stage 2

@@007.3l Very Good, heard Nothing but Good Things.

It can be done cab on, many people do it that way. The heater box has to be removed on the pass side and I believe the motor mount on the driver side has to be removed. But it’s very doable

@@LeftLaneDiesels this is great knowledge thank you, I bidding think it would clear placing the studs how you did I’m the block then gasket an then the head in cab but man that’s wild thank you sir for replying

Can’t say as thou I have much experience with them. But I can say that I trust oem.

i would stick with oem or bullet proof diesel if you live in a warm environment. oem oil coolers are unlikely to fail with red elc coolant, and bpd may have trouble warming up in a cold environment do to being external. theyre also way more expensive so its probably best to stick with motorcraft oem

Thank you. Appreciate the knowledge

Yes there is! Look on the drivers side to see if there's a bolt head or a stud (hex center) its pretty easy to see

No issues at all!

@@LeftLaneDiesels Thank you!

Only use Ford oem head gaskets.

Agree to disagree, have you ever used felpro? Cause if you basing your opinion without trying felpro then your opinion is biased.

Jason Kuhn machining is required regardless. Generally around 5k if turbo, heads and injectors are good

@@LeftLaneDiesels Really? Why would machining still be required if the head is good and never warped/overheated? I'm new to this and trying to understand.

Jason Kuhn you want to be 100% sure that the head is flat and has no cracks. A head could crack just by removing the head bolts. That’s why when removing you generally want to do it in the reverse procedure of torquing. Also this only costs 300-400$ so it’s cheap insurance.

@@ridiculous7935 if you ever have the heads off any motor you want to get them looked at.

What do you use the truck for and what’s your fuel/air set up?

@@LeftLaneDiesels All stock set up. Pulling a 24' camper, and 12ft trailer, responsible owner. Possible tune in the future. I feel like the oring option is overkill. I've done injectors and Turbo and in the process of doing EVERTHING else. I noticed in the video you did NOT have oring heads. Just wondering what your thoughts were on the subject. Thanks for such an expeditious response, fully didn't expect one! Honestly thinking out loud. You are Awesome!

@@MrSir-qq7wi not needed for your application in my opinion. I usually recommend o-ringed heads when guys are running hotter tunes with larger injectors and turbo. The engine in the video went in my personal towing vehicle. Stock other than my one piece up-pipes I offer, all the ford updates, and an exhaust, with a tow tune, does great!

@@LeftLaneDiesels Thank you sir you have put my mind at ease. Starting to feel like the research is harder than the job itself. I am very thankful for guys like you who put your valuable knowledge out there, to help people who value doing it themselves! You are a gentleman and a mechanical scholar.

6.4 pushrods being slightly shorter was fords solution, as it removed stress. Still the lifters are tasked to moving 2 valves per lifter. So what’s created is high stress and poor lifter design which creates poor lubrication. I’ve not personally seen one come apart. Anytime I stud a truck over 200k miles, it gets new lifters.

@@LeftLaneDiesels At 195000 miles, do you worry about replacing lifters? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

@@leemarchant7191 I would replace them

@@LeftLaneDiesels I was afraid of that haha